on March 6, 2023 - 6:53 PM
Hey you did an excellent job on your mount. I can tell you spent a lot of time designing it and making it just right. I would greatly appreciate a copy of your plans if you still have them.
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on February 27, 2023 - 8:27 AM
I have a 1986 Super Sport and I was hoping to create what you did with your bow mount so I don't have to drill any holes but I had some questions..
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on November 14, 2022 - 5:51 AM
Looks great! I’m getting ready to install a new rub rail and bow light like yours. Do I have to cut away all the rub rail where the light will rest? I’m assuming there’s enough rub rail left on the bottom portion to keep everything in line?
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on October 2, 2021 - 12:45 PM
The boat looks rather good.Job well done.
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on October 1, 2021 - 8:32 PM
And forever grateful for my association with Joe Kriz and the Whaler Central professional boat site..
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on August 30, 2021 - 1:28 PM
How much did this cost? Need it now!
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on August 30, 2021 - 12:08 PM
Do you happen to have a material take-off on this project. Think I might do this over the winter. Need to order the teak and would like to order it all dressed (4 sides) so no planning required, just cut to lengths. Thanks for your help! It looks great.
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on July 26, 2021 - 9:39 AM
Where did you find the replacement anchor hatch cover, teak I suppose?
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on May 31, 2021 - 3:54 AM
Hi, Where did you find the cooler mounts, or did you fabricate them yourself?
thanks,
rob
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on April 18, 2021 - 11:32 PM
Hi Ron, I have been seeing this stern seat since I bought my 1987 Montauk 17 in 2018. This is absolutely amazing. For clarification, are each slat 1x4 or were 1x4s ripped to make them square? Thanks for your assistance!
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on March 15, 2021 - 6:52 PM
Outstanding. Which part goes where? Thanks.
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on February 8, 2021 - 5:45 PM
good job. I had one of these 40 nissan 2 strokes on a 1969 13 footer and until i let a bad dealer in naples fl touch it, it ran like a scalded dog. I was going to look into the same thing you just did but the headaches I had with that dealer in naples turned me off. Love to see some performance numbers before and after.
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on January 24, 2021 - 8:59 AM
how did you apply the paint and where can i find the paint? looks great
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on December 15, 2020 - 12:43 PM
Great looking boat. I am upgrading my 1989 Montauk 17 with hydraulic steering. Do you remember how many feet of hydraulic hose you needed ? Thanks
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on October 16, 2020 - 10:19 AM
Beautiful job! LOL, just realized this set of posts is ten years old but it is still a great read. Hope the repairs held up. I would love to see how she looks today. Very impressive repair work.
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on October 16, 2020 - 10:06 AM
Not sure about adding the wood plugs, which can still get wet &/or strip. You can just fill the holes with the thickened west epoxy & drill a pilot hole for the screws directly into it. I also use a dremel to spin a small piece of coat hanger, bent into a small right angled hook, around the inside of the drilled out 3/8" holes under the glass. This cuts a groove in the foam or remaining wood surrounding the hole, underneath the fiberglass skin. use a toothpick to make sure this shoulder will fill with the west epoxy as you fill the hole. This will prevent the epoxy plugs from being pulled up by the force of the screws. I think I refit every screw on my 1967 Nauset this way & the railings, seats & console never loosened again. LOL, find me a fifty plus year old whaler with rock solid railings. I even fished it with a down rigger clamped directly to the side railing for years. I did this to replace all several hundred rivets holding the rub rail to the boats perimeter also. that was time consuming to say the least! Very effective repair, but I think the undercut shoulder cut under the glass is essential.
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on October 11, 2020 - 2:29 PM
Did spray the gel coat on the hull or did u use a roller and brush???
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on October 6, 2020 - 10:19 AM
any post on raising console and seat , comments on doing this.
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on May 19, 2020 - 7:31 PM
Still looks good after seven years being redone.
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on May 11, 2020 - 5:11 AM
Jazzbassjoe and RojoRaider78, Sorry I took so long to respond. Thank you for your comments!
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on January 24, 2020 - 5:42 PM
Looks as good as ever...I miss working on this kind of project...
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on January 24, 2020 - 5:40 PM
Better late than ever...Had a look at your success refit and read the comments...Well done for sure..I did hear rumors that you took on an Outrage 25 after finishing on the Classic Outrage 19..Did you ever finish it?
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on January 23, 2020 - 10:56 AM
I am about to overhaul a 13' Whaler like yours. What actually is the purpose for the insert bracket besides allowing a long shaft motor? Is there a reason to do away with the drop transom?
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on January 5, 2020 - 8:19 PM
Great looking installation. Looking to do similar on my new 13' Dauntless. Could you send details on the fitting installation on the inspection cap? Looking to understand how it was connected to allow for cap removal. Thanks again.
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on October 31, 2019 - 10:02 AM
This is awesome project! Looks beautifully crafted.
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on June 3, 2019 - 1:19 PM
Where did you get the replacement gas tank?
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on April 22, 2019 - 12:33 PM
Very nice job - thanks for sharing!
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on January 24, 2019 - 9:57 AM
I had refilled the mineral spirits twice to remove bubbles. When a bubble again reappeared over night, I suspected the crimp thanks to your prior descriptive work.
I set a flanged vise grip tool to slightly compress the lip as I gently squeezed. I moved slowly around the circumference, moving a 1/4" at a time. You obviously don't need to squeeze much.
After a few days without a bubble I declared success.
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on October 27, 2018 - 2:48 PM
Outstanding.
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on October 27, 2018 - 2:46 PM
Very Nice touch.
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on June 15, 2018 - 11:10 AM
Thanks guys! She is still lookin and performin great.
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on June 15, 2018 - 10:21 AM
I got this one at orvac electronics in Fullerton CA
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on June 15, 2018 - 10:18 AM
The stainless panels were custom machined from a friend of mine. The door panels are from custom boat doors .com. I believe that is there name now. Any size you want they can machine.
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on February 25, 2018 - 11:57 AM
Any performance numbers for the Yamaha 90
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on September 29, 2017 - 9:02 AM
Pickup truck bed liner spray works well after primer also. Did mine 8 years ago with no issues.
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on June 6, 2017 - 4:14 PM
Where did you get the wood parts?
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on April 29, 2017 - 6:18 PM
How to you allow for the transom thru drains when you poured? When you made the pour did you put a spacer/brass tube in place and then poor?
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on April 26, 2017 - 5:37 AM
Sorry it took me so long to answer. I have not looked at my project album site for awhile. After almost 4 years of use, the Stern Bench Seat still looks like new. There are a few scratches where the seat abuts the side rails, but these can be sanded out. I would not do anything else differently. You can't believe all the looks and conversations I've had with other boaters when on the water. They all think it adds to the charm of these old Montauks.
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on April 26, 2017 - 5:33 AM
Sorry it too so long to answer. I don't believe I will be making these for others. Thank you for your comment.
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on March 28, 2017 - 3:15 PM
Im currently fixing mine and am thinking about screwing the battery and gas tank to the bottom of the seat.
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on March 25, 2017 - 12:53 AM
I have the same issue.. this is a beautiful solution. Could you make me one and ship it to CT?
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on February 21, 2017 - 7:27 PM
I recently traded my dad a 12' landau Jon boat with a 15 Marc very fast for a Jon boat for a 1985 13' sport or as not sure.with 35 evinrude.he said wanted something easier to take care of.the whaler has been covered inside a barn.since its redo of wood finishes and a once over of the motor.I have a center console off a Bentley pontoon and cooler bench.I need to get some ideas of how to place :'( forward or back???
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on February 9, 2017 - 12:37 PM
Nice job and a bargain for sure.
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on December 26, 2016 - 7:55 PM
If I may as where did you get your teak?
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on October 1, 2016 - 5:34 PM
Excellent and inspirational for those of us in the process of rebuilding our boats.
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on October 1, 2016 - 5:29 PM
Nice panels, where'd you end up getting them from?
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on October 1, 2016 - 5:26 PM
Very Nice
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on October 1, 2016 - 5:25 PM
Where did you get the new railings from??
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on August 20, 2016 - 4:08 PM
is there a plan or mold for a cuddy cabin, I would like one for my 21 outrage, thanks Don.
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on August 18, 2016 - 7:01 AM
fantastic!
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on June 24, 2016 - 1:22 PM
Awesome!! How is it holding up and would you change anything now, after 3 years of use? You did a great job and thanks for sharing.
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on June 23, 2016 - 5:14 PM
Very nice work! I purchased a 1960 something Blue and white yesterday in Denver, Colorado. If she comes out half as nice as yours I'll be pleased!
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on April 16, 2016 - 8:57 PM
Where can get a junction box like the one in the picture?
Neil
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on March 17, 2016 - 7:56 PM
Mine was dead center. Sounds like the original installation on yours was mistake during the original installation. If you replace the rub rail you could correct it.
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on March 9, 2016 - 9:37 AM
Interesting...may I have the measurements please??? I'ii appreciate it....I can see I was custom made?...what width doses the aluminum sheet has?
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on March 1, 2016 - 2:54 PM
Was your bow light pocket offcenter when you removed the light? Mine is off to port about an inch. Is there a reason for it not to be dead center or did someone just mismeasure at the during manufacturing? 1990 sport 13'.
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on February 23, 2016 - 1:56 PM
Thank You Doug.
I will enjoy seeing your progress coast3301
Thank You all.
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on December 29, 2015 - 2:48 PM
Great job there! Curious, how did you access the inner cores in the lower section for patching/surfacing? The access pount on my outrage in modest, unless youre a leprechaun.
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on October 17, 2015 - 9:58 AM
I forgot to mention I have the identical boat
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on October 17, 2015 - 9:55 AM
looking great I have the preresto in my barn waiting for me to get inspired to restore your resto almost made me envious enough to plan a maybe tomorrow again great job
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on October 10, 2015 - 8:20 PM
Serge,
The boat is looking GREAT!
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on October 5, 2015 - 5:07 PM
Is the hull a golden yellow color? I just bought a 1973 13' Sport in that color, I've never seen one before I bought mine. Doesn't need that kind of repair but I am going to redo the interior and build custom consoles and seats in mahogany.
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on October 5, 2015 - 4:58 PM
LOL, I can imagine how it felt tearing it up, "what if i screw it up, wasted money".
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on September 16, 2015 - 5:57 PM
Ron that is amazing ...if you decide to make and sell them let me know
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on June 6, 2015 - 3:35 AM
Good timing. I am replacing the gunwales on a commercial 22 and don't have the originals to copy. The originals are aluminum but i prefer the look of wood. If you could post dimensions that would be great.
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on March 9, 2015 - 9:35 PM
Great looking 9ft whaler.Good job
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on January 30, 2015 - 2:56 PM
Great to to know. I have a broken one in my garage
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on August 7, 2014 - 2:35 PM
Phil did you put the bilge hose on after you connected all your wiring? Or did you run all the wiring through the bilge hose and then connect them to their respective terminals?
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on August 7, 2014 - 12:12 PM
Makes paint an attractive option.Does it not?
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on July 21, 2014 - 8:18 PM
I'll measure it tomorrow, fits nicely under back seat.
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on July 6, 2014 - 10:40 AM
Where did get the roller guides on your trailer?
Thanks,
Ken
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on June 18, 2014 - 3:42 PM
The freeboard is similar to the classic 13's, in this boat the wide beam and light weight allows the it to rise over waves and wakes better than the 13's. The high and wide bow does a good job at keeping large seas out. To keep steep water from breaching the gunwales, you need to approach steep water either head on or at up to a 45 degree angle from the bow. So far I haven't had more than light spray in the boat, the low transom and splash well bulkhead, combined with a throttle punch, would allow most of a swamping to go over the transom (I've done this in my Eastport a few times when I've stuffed the bow on a large/steep sea), the 1100 GPH bilge pump would take care of the remainder.
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on June 2, 2014 - 7:30 AM
when you said low profile you mean low profile. Any problems with abeam wakes?
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on May 25, 2014 - 12:23 PM
Thanks Guys..This one would have been completed much earlier but due to my huge workload here I still keep this project for last as "Quality Time"
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on March 31, 2014 - 3:34 PM
See the full article on "Drilling the Green Holes" in our article section.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82
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on March 28, 2014 - 1:09 PM
Just a super professional and dedicated effort toward perfection. Thanks for sharing it with us.
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on March 23, 2014 - 12:56 PM
Thanks for the compliment.
I just keep the anchor in the anchor compartment. I do keep a rubber mat on the bottom so the anchor does not scratch interior gel coat. Because the Montauk's have a bouncy ride, I'd be hesitant to have some sort of exposed bow anchor mount.
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on March 22, 2014 - 1:05 PM
great ideas, I have a 1974 montauk 17, little storage. Do you have any ideas on anchor storage? Previous owner had a bow rail mount where the anchor shank would be hitting the hull all the time. I was thinking about some type of bowsprit?? All ideas welcome.
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on March 4, 2014 - 5:18 PM
Tremendous effort. I was exhausted just viewing your photos. You should be proud. I am looking forward to seeing the girl finished. Great job.
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on February 19, 2014 - 9:56 AM
I'm not totally convinced they were cracks, some say it is bleaching effect sun causes through the cracks that were in the gel coat.
Never-the-less, I worked a layer or two of fiberglass mat over the area (trying to keep it thin) and called it fixed. Knock wood, 5yrs later it's still solid.
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on January 15, 2014 - 6:56 AM
Beautiful job! Thanks for sharing!
Now I must attack the inside of my console.
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on January 15, 2014 - 6:50 AM
Nice!!!
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on January 13, 2014 - 3:43 PM
You have a beautiful boat and have done a great job of showing your work. You must be very proud of the out come. 10's to you.
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on January 13, 2014 - 1:37 PM
Thanks Dominic. I am a redo addict. My wife hates it but I am in if you are in the neighborhood and the beer is cold.
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on January 13, 2014 - 1:35 PM
Minor Blistering and a few fine gel coat cracks. I sanded those areas down to the bare glass, added a small bit of filler glass and sanded prior to re-gelcoating. All were minor issues.
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on January 8, 2014 - 7:23 PM
Also restoring my 1973 Outrage 21. I was wondering if you epoxied the teak?
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on December 28, 2013 - 5:14 PM
As some of the letters can no longer be read, here is the full number:
BWC2107AM76K
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on December 21, 2013 - 12:39 PM
Beautiful job.
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on November 20, 2013 - 12:43 PM
Hello:
I am in the process of installing swivel seats in my 1983 Outrage. Currently has a leaning post seating. My question is are there specific measured locations where they should be placed? Or is it best to place them where best that fits my needs. That is placement to the steering wheel etc.?
Larry - lkftmp Tacomai
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on November 16, 2013 - 5:47 PM
Thanks Joe,
In for a penny
In for a pound!
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on October 29, 2013 - 7:13 PM
wow, really nice thorough explanation & congrats on the refit. another example that you just can't kill these things.
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on September 30, 2013 - 4:30 AM
jsmith294, Thank you for the very kind words.
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on September 22, 2013 - 7:59 AM
Absolutely beautiful. You are a real craftsman, Ron.
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on September 17, 2013 - 2:34 PM
I had a similar experience. Opened it up and got a new battery and bought a spare cheap off eBay for parts. The price on Elite 5 really came down, so I upgraded this season to get color and better WAAS accuracy.
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on September 8, 2013 - 7:54 AM
Scrfasteddie, THANK you very much!
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on September 7, 2013 - 9:29 PM
Any chance you can refer or help me out to re-do my montauk? :)
This is an awesome job!
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on September 6, 2013 - 7:02 PM
cool stern seat, you are a true craftmen and artist!
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on September 3, 2013 - 2:28 PM
My new one lasted a season but the unit had other issues which I think drained the battery. Ultimately the unit died and I got a new 541 in 2007 which is also still going strong.
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on September 3, 2013 - 9:14 AM
kamie,
How long did the battery last? I have had a Garmin 541 since 2007 and it still holds memory. Just wondering when and if I may have to replace an internal battery.
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on August 30, 2013 - 11:30 AM
Is this a fiberglass tank? What are the dimensions and gallons of this tank?
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on August 29, 2013 - 4:27 AM
Thank you very much, dashore.
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on August 27, 2013 - 11:14 AM
Thanks 68 Eastport!
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on August 24, 2013 - 12:50 PM
nice job!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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on August 22, 2013 - 7:09 PM
WOW! Nice job.
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on August 12, 2013 - 1:17 PM
I just took possession of a 1996 Dauntless 15 and plan to perform this same upgrade but, the OEM 4" cap is no longer with the boat.
Let me know the maker of it that you found so that I can pursue a replacement.
Thanks
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on August 4, 2013 - 6:19 PM
It looks like you have gotten almost all the wet foam out. Is the brownish/yellowish stuff wet? I would treat all the plywood exposed with the best cupernol/woodlife chem you are still allowed to buy. I have never poured the foam others have used in rejuvenating Whalers but it seems that you are close to that point. It is great that you have shared. I wish I was IT literate enough to load pictures of my Whaler adventures.
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on July 30, 2013 - 5:52 AM
Marko888, Thankyou very much for the compliment!
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on July 30, 2013 - 5:51 AM
NJjohnmontauk17, you are very welcome. Glad you enjoyed the album!
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on July 23, 2013 - 6:52 PM
Ron, thanks for the very comprehensive explanation & for all the hard work detailing the photos, etc. Above & beyond.
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on July 3, 2013 - 8:55 AM
This is the most impressive custom stern Whaler seat I have ever seen! VERY nicely done.
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on June 25, 2013 - 9:19 PM
What year is she? I noticed your bow hatch cover is rectangle and your bow is moulded differently. I have a very similar one but can't nail down the year because there are no numbers anywhere on the transom nor inside the bow locker.
Nice job though. It's very pretty!
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on June 23, 2013 - 10:57 AM
Nice console. Do you have the dimensions for it?
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on May 22, 2013 - 1:28 PM
Roger That Joe,
Installation photos will be posted with full credits.
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on May 20, 2013 - 1:33 PM
Serge, I assume you didn't take this photo. We really should use our own photos here on WhalerCentral or give a photo credit on who took this photo like West Marine, etc. Thanks.
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on April 29, 2013 - 5:19 PM
It never ceases to amaze me at what folks do to save their Whalers and the skill level those who do so attain-as-they-go. Excellent job.
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on April 22, 2013 - 10:25 AM
Impressive Phil. I like how neat everything is with the bilge hose.
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on April 13, 2013 - 7:46 PM
Very cool looks like the boys have a nice boat to grow up with! Great job!
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on March 2, 2013 - 7:04 PM
It is not totally done yet.
I am having some great times redoing all the specifics..
Thanks for your appreciation.
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on February 26, 2013 - 6:04 AM
Beautiful!
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on February 17, 2013 - 2:55 AM
I tought this hull can only resist 40hp.. Did you amend the structure to fit that 55 engine?
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on February 6, 2013 - 1:53 PM
Just looked at your project for the first time. Wow, you have restored it beautifully.
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on February 3, 2013 - 7:01 PM
Yes,
It is the outrigger bracket and platform that will fit upfront of the console.
I had to disassemble and carefully remove all residual paints and corrosion from the cast aluminum parts.One more step toward the final product.
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on December 18, 2012 - 4:08 PM
Isn't this an Outrigger Mount for the console?
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...oto_id=355
Hard to tell from such a small photo. Photos should be no smaller then 640x480 and up to 960x720
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on December 14, 2012 - 7:51 AM
Santa barbarians and Hawaiians build our whaler's the same due to sea's and they ride a lot better with added weight to the bow. I am building my Montauk similar to yours as I glassed a half cab on to open up the deck for some real room! I'll post my build.
Aloha,
Pat
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on November 29, 2012 - 2:40 PM
how did you fix the stress cracks?
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on October 20, 2012 - 6:54 PM
Is there any wood under the gelcoat that could be rotten? I just fixed a soft spot in my deck where the wood had rotted under the gel. It even had maggots in it. Bonus.
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on October 8, 2012 - 12:56 PM
Sorry I missed this comment - Hours?? Lol - no clue - It took about 3 years start to finish - never tracked the hours.
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on October 4, 2012 - 1:42 AM
Thanks for the good words Joe.
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on October 1, 2012 - 11:04 AM
Coming together nice. Looking good.
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on September 27, 2012 - 11:56 AM
Looks like a very good finished product Bake.
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on September 21, 2012 - 1:17 PM
Thank you for the compliments. If you have any questions, just ask.
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on September 20, 2012 - 1:37 PM
I showed the seat pic to my husband who is collecting ideas for a new rear seat and he thinks yours is great! Good job. Rest of boat pictured looks great, too.
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on September 19, 2012 - 7:29 AM
I just picked up a 1976 Outrage 19. Before I tear into the restore, where does that drain tie into?
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on August 17, 2012 - 3:29 AM
Thanks very much on the compliments!
I still have to take a few more photos to fully explain the support legs that are under the leg extension and seat sections. I expect to have these completed in about two weeks. I'll start a thread after that. Thanks again.
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on August 16, 2012 - 4:38 AM
Thank you very much for your comment and kind words. Every time I take the boat out, I always get comments and looks. Thanks again.
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on August 15, 2012 - 10:41 PM
WOW ! I love it. This shows great design with for-site, wonderful design and execution.
I will be steeling from you like it or not. (This is the biggest compliment I can give)
I have been using the idea of designing a fold down stern seat as my nightly meditation for a long time now. I wold love to see details of the mechanics... how is it supported in the middle and the foremost section? As well as other several other questions.
This build needs a thread to talk about it.... please start one so that I and others could discuss.
Thank you for posting this... beautiful!!!
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on August 15, 2012 - 7:52 PM
Now that is my kind of functional creativity. Excellent idea, and work.
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on August 5, 2012 - 5:03 PM
Hey roger, i have the same throttle control and i am in the process of restoring my 1971 13' I would love to know where you found that Logo? I love my throttle control as well
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on July 13, 2012 - 5:28 AM
I know this is an old post but no final pics?
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on July 11, 2012 - 1:52 PM
Just out of curiosity, I clicked on your Project Album. What a project it was and what a great job you did. Do you know how many hours you have in it?
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on July 8, 2012 - 9:55 AM
Hi Rob I just bought a 1969 13' Boston Whaler. It needs some hull work and I plan on painting the hull after I complete the patch work, any suggestions on what type of paint I should use?
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on June 25, 2012 - 1:52 PM
Please tell me where you got these Wonderful Bow rails......Thanks
~The Irish Wake
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on June 25, 2012 - 1:47 PM
Nice Wayfarers! (sunglasses)
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on June 17, 2012 - 12:20 PM
Hey Ritzy,
How are your projects coming?? Inquiring minds want to know!!
Fred S
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on June 14, 2012 - 1:55 PM
What is rolled and tipped?
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on June 14, 2012 - 1:54 PM
This is what I am going to do to my 1975 13 BW sport. Nice job.
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on June 13, 2012 - 9:21 AM
I have a 1983 Montauk. I am concerned about the status of the hull. What type of issues did you encounter on the hull below the waterline e.g., blistering?
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on May 24, 2012 - 11:03 AM
I have a 1986 Outrage 22' with teak gunwales. One of the gunwales is cracked, and I cannot figure out how to repair it without taking the entire boat apart. It really isn't that bad, but it drives me nuts. I tried putting glue very carefully into the crack with no success. Any ideas?
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on May 18, 2012 - 10:15 PM
I really dont know what i would have done differently, well if i cad a bigger shop i would have flipped it over and done all the imperfections on the bottom, it has seen som bottom within its 35 years. Other than that, i dont know. Oh, yes, the windshield could have been replaced with a new one, but after polishing the old one, it looked very nice actually.
I have not compromised in any way conserning the quality or finish of the new hardware or the way things have been restored.
A disturbing amount of time and money have been put into the details.
My brother Thor did all the wireing, thats his proffesion, and after paying for the hardware and cables, im pretty sure he bought the best stuff out there.
And after replacing the old Merc, the boat have an all new apperance. before it was a "restolook", now it is simply a beautiful, bad ass 50 knot piece of machine.
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on May 16, 2012 - 2:59 AM
Fantastisk boat! Cheers Stekarn
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on May 7, 2012 - 8:34 PM
Interesting.
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on May 6, 2012 - 8:00 AM
That looks very very nice.
Its amazing what some nice wood can do for boat.
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on April 3, 2012 - 12:23 PM
Hey Joe your seat looks great. I am going to attempt to do mine 1. how often does it need to be done 2. how do i get the oil not to have that sticky feel 3. what should been done between coats. thanks craig
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on March 20, 2012 - 8:16 PM
I recently bought a 17' Striper and it is in need of a lot of TLC. I live in Rockwall and expect to see you on Lavon or Hubbard. Like you, I was in the Navy-been looking for one of the Nuke emblems to put on my boat. Where did you get your emblem?
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on February 25, 2012 - 7:56 AM
What did you put in the tube so it wouldn't fill up? Thanks Steve
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on February 23, 2012 - 6:55 AM
Thanks for photos. Have hull 00023 and trying to get some ideas how to finish it out. Cap off & hull stripped out. The cap is just too ugly to put back but freeboard is an issue.
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on February 21, 2012 - 10:47 PM
Harley...Did you repair these "blisters" or leave them as-is? If so, how did you approach it?
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on February 11, 2012 - 1:29 PM
What type of steering did you install on that console?
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on January 27, 2012 - 3:50 AM
I will have to leave that to my brother, he is the one who has done most of the work and the one using it. What I do know is that the motor combination is very good!!
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on January 5, 2012 - 10:58 PM
Hi, where do you find that 190 montauk hull? do the company sell them like that because this hull is practically new from 2007-present
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on December 29, 2011 - 5:50 AM
Ok thanks, The reason I asked is because it seems low for it to be connected to the sump. I have been boating many years but this is my first whaler, so your experience is invaluable to me. When I able to get to the boat I will run a borescope into the drain hole and hope it comes out the drain hole in the sump area. THANKS
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on December 27, 2011 - 11:57 AM
bass man, this does not have a "garboard" drain". What you are looking at is the bottom thru hull standard drain tube coming from the sump area.
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on December 27, 2011 - 11:14 AM
I recently purchased a 1983 Montauk. I have read multiple posts that mention that Whalers should not have drain tubes at the bottom of the transom known as a garboard drain because the hull is foam filled. I have a garboard drain - as I see your 1983 has. So was the garboard drain standard on the 1983 and maybe other models? If so does anyone know why? There has been suggestion that this drain be fiberglassed over due to the possibility of water leaking into the foam.. Can anyone shed some light on this?
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on December 23, 2011 - 6:28 PM
The idea of NO handrails or bowrails is deliberate, and one of the many reasons I wanted to design my own boat-- from scratch. They are a weak link, which bend and break with clumsy docking or clumsy guests. They keep you from getting into, or out of a boat easily. I now have some small rail hand holds on the center consule only for travel purposes.
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on December 11, 2011 - 5:23 PM
Safety First Ritz, Safety First.
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on December 4, 2011 - 7:20 AM
Hey CES that is very nice. I just stumbled on your project today. I am doing a similar addition to the console on my newly acquired 1966 Currituck. I wanted to be able to stand not sit. I left the existing flat console top in place and built a 14" tall addition on top that will house the steering and throttle and tach. The existing flat top will become a shelf of the new. Yesterday I also made my own windshield and just attached it for picture taking. I am so lame about computers that I can't figure how to post but I will try to e-mail them to you.
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on November 29, 2011 - 2:43 PM
It performs well - goes in the low 20 mph range - since this boat is primarily operated by my kids thats fast enough. Will run all weekend on 6 gallons of gas to boot.
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on November 4, 2011 - 4:25 PM
Looks very good and classy Thor.
Give us in a topic of what you like about the finished product and of what you would have done differently if you had a second chance at it..
I will be looking for your comments.
Serge
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on November 2, 2011 - 12:09 PM
I didn't attach it to the deck at all, I fastened the front of the console to the underside of the front bench seat. There's a felt liner between the foot of the console and the deck.
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on October 17, 2011 - 9:18 PM
Thanks for posting that one Ritz
The gang here were wondering if you had any help doing the work.
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on September 19, 2011 - 3:49 PM
Started my 22 last week. All new African Mahogany in the gunnels, new fuel tank coming along with a complete rebuild and customized console. Hull will be shot with awlgrip oyster white .Does the aquamist have much blue color or is it a brighter white?
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on August 25, 2011 - 6:57 AM
I did all the cutting. They sell kits for some jet boats i think. Nobody has a kit for a 1976 whaler.
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on August 21, 2011 - 11:36 AM
Thanks for the comments and the pics. You did a great job. Did you do all the cutting or can you get Hydro turf pre cut?
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on August 14, 2011 - 5:54 PM
Beautiful !
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on July 15, 2011 - 10:59 AM
wow. can I send you mine for a re-do?
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on July 7, 2011 - 8:19 PM
Very nice results on this refit.
I do like the color co ordination that you made with the Bimini top and the covers from Mills.
The red rub rail now has something to relate to instead of standing alone and seemingly as a bit of a clash in my opinion.
This one will score a nine out of ten.
Bravo Thor.
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on July 4, 2011 - 3:55 AM
The works looks very good Thor.
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on June 28, 2011 - 10:38 AM
That's good news. Looks great.
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on June 19, 2011 - 3:14 PM
I think that if thru-hulls are properly maintained, (i.e., replaced when needed) there is no need to take out perfectly good thru-hulls. I believe there are a number of other whaler owners that can attest to just maintaining their boat properly as not having any issues through the years....That being said, my thru- hulls were literally rotted out; I would hope that a new boat wouldn't have leaky thru-hulls! - just my opinion.
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on June 16, 2011 - 7:08 AM
No, this trailer was made just for the restoration. To be able to roll the hull in and out of the garage.
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on June 14, 2011 - 3:41 PM
I like your trailer. Do you just push it down to the end of the block and launch it?
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on June 11, 2011 - 3:56 PM
Well done Finn, and thanks for finishing the album, great to see the final product and that it was worth all the effort!
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on June 11, 2011 - 10:19 AM
I just went through your project pictures and I'm extremely impressed with the job you did.
But it raises some questions about possible mods I should make to my new 190 outrage. Assuming the thru hulls are still manufactured the same as in your case.
If so this seems to be a weak point of BW design. I'm thinking of removing the thru hull tubes, enlarging the hole, replacing the plastic tube with copper or bronze. and pouring epoxy into the void around the new thru hull. Then any leak that might occur in the future would be contained inside the epoxy instead of leaking into the foam. I've used a similar process on my last boat to preclude water entering the wood between the glass layers on the deck and flying bridge.
What do you think?
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on June 8, 2011 - 5:16 PM
He sells on ebay. Take a look as he always has one listed. PM me if you have no luck as I can find his email.
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on May 23, 2011 - 1:56 PM
Glad we have this site and the ability to look up past projects. Working on getting a 25, and you definately show how to do it right, right up to the twin E-TECS!!
Duf
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on May 18, 2011 - 6:26 PM
As for detecting water in the transom, every time I did anything involving the transom, I got wet, especially when I replaced the transom thru hulls. That's where I got the first indication of trouble......
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on May 18, 2011 - 6:24 PM
Thanks! Sorry again for taking so long to post the final pictures, as I said in my posts, I really did get a chance to run it quite a bit last summer and the boat handles very differently (meaning much better) than it did when it had a "weighty" rear end......
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on May 18, 2011 - 6:15 PM
No, the foam definitely did not dissolve! It absorbed the water like a sponge; weighed down the back tremendously. As I said in later posts, the boat definitely jumped up on a plane much better after all the work was done.
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on May 14, 2011 - 7:37 PM
Please tell me more about the swim platform. What is the Martin Marine website. I could not find it.
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on May 13, 2011 - 7:35 AM
Nice work! Looks like a big undetaking. Seeing these projects really inspires me! Really nice job docuementing it all for us. THANKS!!!
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on May 10, 2011 - 8:37 PM
I can't imagine the strain that tow vehicle must go through, I hope it's flat traveling.
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on May 6, 2011 - 7:26 PM
Finnwhale: I'm contemplating exactly yhe same repair, but on a slightly older vintage (~1970, 13ft standard). Did you hollow out the foam in the hull to replace it? Or had the foam disolved with the salt intrusion? I'm in Smithfield RI, and looking forward to putting this project into naragansett! before transfer to a new owner in CT. Thanks, Truant1.
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on May 1, 2011 - 6:43 PM
Amazing job. I think I got the cause of all this as the thru hull that is in the starboard well [below deck] failing and letting water into the sandwich cavity. Did you dectect any moisture in the transom itself? I assume that it is plywood encapsulated by the glass. The approach you took through the splash well is unique and the photos are very enlightening. I have a 1985 18' that is kept on a lift so I pray never to go where you've been. I will sure as hell look at my thru hull next time I am at the boat though.
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on May 1, 2011 - 11:54 AM
Great project album. Looks good now. Thanks for sharing.
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on April 27, 2011 - 3:19 PM
Incredible job! I wish you lived close to me, I have a "questionable" stern on my Revenge and the previous owner did some rather shoddy repair work to it that I haven't tackled yet.
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on April 9, 2011 - 3:20 PM
I don't understand the lack of handrails ... unless this is a freshwater boat only.
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on April 1, 2011 - 4:35 PM
Beautiful! I started restoration on 1972 Sport last week. Your success will benefit me. Len Johnson, Wolfeboro, NH
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on March 13, 2011 - 11:14 AM
How much did you pay for a salvage like this if you dont mind my asking
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on March 10, 2011 - 3:40 PM
Clocked her at about 38 last weekend, but I think she could do better with the right prop - fortunately I just took a big chunk out of the prop so I can justify buying a nice new one!
When I bought her she was a wreck, and had a tiller-control 30hp on her - I could do about 25 and felt almost out of control in any chop. This last run a few days ago I had her full throttle in some decent chop and it was a cakewalk with the NFB steering, proper seating, and balanced weight distribution.
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on February 4, 2011 - 8:20 PM
Holy Smoke, a 55hp on a 13ft. So how fast does she run?
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on February 1, 2011 - 3:28 AM
I am using Alexseal product for the restoration of my 1968 Nauset and the color is Atlantic Blue
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on January 30, 2011 - 8:56 AM
What an awesome restoration!!! Looks GREAT!! any luck on that paint code?
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on January 4, 2011 - 12:52 PM
you did a fantastic job .. when I will have to restore my boston 15 will ask you some advice
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on January 3, 2011 - 6:33 PM
Looks great I am in the middle of restoring Nauset 16 just about ready to varnish what did you use on yours Thanks
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on January 3, 2011 - 3:56 PM
I would like to know is the swim-platform able to fit my Ventura 16? I have a swim ladder but I am removing ladder so I can mount trim tabs. Were can I buy the swim plat form?
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on December 7, 2010 - 12:45 PM
Why gorilla glue and not thickened epoxy?? Gotta do the same with an old 16/17 and my natural soution is west
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on November 12, 2010 - 3:56 PM
Absolutely not. Let me know if you have any questions. The lights are awesome for nightime bassin!!
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on November 11, 2010 - 1:43 PM
If you are interested, a discription of my project is in the current list of new threads (tank repalcement outrage 22). I plan to cope with some similar issues as you have.
My question is: if you pour foam into a confined space, what are the caveats? I have a void of about 1.5 ft3 between the keel mold and the upper deck mold housing the fuel tan, an area about 19" long 12" wide 5 = 6" deep. I have cleaned out the cavity and resealed it. I would introduce the foam (SeaHawk) though an 1 1/2" opening.
If I can controll the temp (boat is on MV) do I risk distorting the deck from pressure? Will the foam penetrate into cavities on either side of the keel?
I have kept a record of the process so far but have not been successful in posting it. How did you do it?
Would much appreciate your comments. E.S.
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on November 11, 2010 - 8:25 AM
very similar to my own eperience, except that i drained at least a couple of gallons of water with traces of fuel. haqve u checked the tank?
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on October 22, 2010 - 8:37 AM
I Like the lights I am in the process of redoing my console, would you mind if i steal your idea?
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on October 12, 2010 - 2:07 PM
Phil, nice job! I thought about doing that to my trailer as well but instead went with a hitch extension, 18" I think, so the rear wheels wouldn't need to be in the salt water.
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on October 11, 2010 - 5:22 AM
hotrod styling, metallic bmw-paint , very sweet
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on October 8, 2010 - 8:30 PM
Very very nice!
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on September 29, 2010 - 5:19 AM
Amazing job. I have just started reviving my 13" this week and your end result is really inspiring!!
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on September 29, 2010 - 3:20 AM
New lens, polished with "Autosol"
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on September 27, 2010 - 4:09 PM
Had a 25 with twin 150 Johnsons back in the 80s that boat was a beast. You did a great job. Happy Whalering!!
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on September 20, 2010 - 3:51 PM
The reason for the tongue was to keep the truck out of the water and not take up additional room in my driveway.
The chain is one long set. I wrapped them with hose to cut down on noise and keep them from sagging. I did cut them shorter otherwise they would have been much too long. It works pretty well.
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on September 17, 2010 - 7:15 AM
Where did you get the fuel tank?? I'm in need of one as well.
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on September 13, 2010 - 4:52 PM
fiver, thanks!! It has to last a while. My son is waiting until this one becomes his in a few years. He helped with the work and is lovin the time fishin it.
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on September 10, 2010 - 11:40 AM
Finished? What's that!? :)
Still left is bow rail, bimini, and seat cushions - plus a lot of little things, most of which I've already added... tach, gps, stern light, Whaler pendant, but yeah she's shaping up nicely - lots of compliments her first day out. Going back out in a few hours for a better motor break-in.
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on September 8, 2010 - 2:51 PM
Hey Roger, that sure is a beautiful finished product you have there! You did a really nice job. Have fun with her.
Marty Durham
1991 15' Sport GLS
Johns Island,SC
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on September 7, 2010 - 12:15 PM
I think it's about the same year as the hull (1976) and motor (1975) but not positive... it's certainly around the same era, and I just love the look of it. I don't want anything modern-looking on the boat, so I looked far and wide for this... even managed to find a new sticker for the Evinrude Simplex logo - the original silkscreened aluminum plate is behind it, but was quite worn.
I plan to strip and repaint the whole unit - silver/gray for the body of the control and the sticks, and a repainted red throttle handle to match the other red highlights (bimini, trailer, keychain!).
Also, the seat cushions are temporary until I get the upholstered cushions (white with red beading).
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on September 7, 2010 - 12:12 PM
Everyone told me the light was meant to be mounted over the rail even though the only way it would seem to fit would be under, after cutting the track. I couldn't bring myself to cut the rubrail/track, and it just didn't look right without the spacer.
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on September 6, 2010 - 10:13 PM
Wow! Is that original?
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on September 6, 2010 - 10:12 PM
Beautiful job on the bow light. I always wondered if the rubrail was supposed to be cut so the bow light would sit flat. It would bug me too. I would hate to cut a new, or good condition rubrail.
Impressive attention to detail!
Mike
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on September 2, 2010 - 2:33 AM
Really Nice Job? I so happen to find one 1976 just like it thats kinda rough and look forward to restoring here as well
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on August 20, 2010 - 12:41 AM
Thanks, it is working wonderfully.
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on August 20, 2010 - 12:39 AM
I bought it from a woman on Ebay. They will make it any size you wish. Mine is 6' x 6'. Had it made tall as I stand 6'3". I can stand upright and walk bow to stern without ducking.
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on August 13, 2010 - 10:40 PM
This will look super when tho work is all done...
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on August 13, 2010 - 10:39 PM
All very good work Thor.
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on August 13, 2010 - 4:32 PM
Nice rear casting deck or place to lounge with a cushion added.
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on August 13, 2010 - 12:15 PM
Any other updates? I'm at about the same stage with mine as well. I haven't tried using any chemicals to get the bottom paint off. The most effective method has been using a strong pressure washer then a sharp scraper. For the very stubborn paint, a belt sander and palm sander finish the job. My hull is heavily blistered and cracked in areas and am finding it necessary to take it down to bare glass.
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on August 10, 2010 - 9:13 PM
looks to me to be one set of long chains to attach aft of the joint of the swing tongue. in case of failure of the joint. makes senses, but i would probably zip tie the chain up to prevent excess sagging. i'd probably trip on it . haha. if only i had a two car garage i could talk my wife into not parking her car in there. oh well.
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on August 10, 2010 - 7:28 AM
Great job Phil! The second set of chains to the right in the above picture, are they simply installed in case something happens to the swing joint? Seems beefy enough on its own, but I guess it can't hurt to have them.
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on August 8, 2010 - 9:14 AM
Very impressive! All systems very well thought out, much labor and time spent on your boat, it is inspiring to see someone restore a whaler so expertly.
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on July 31, 2010 - 4:33 PM
I am Blown away. Great Boat
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on July 28, 2010 - 11:37 PM
Thanks guys !
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on July 28, 2010 - 11:36 PM
Thanks hytechf85 !
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on July 27, 2010 - 12:44 PM
Very clean! What did you use to buff the light and remove the oxidation?
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on July 27, 2010 - 12:06 PM
Just about to start my project on my 1966 sport. Not sure I can make it look like yours, but I sure am going to give it a shot. Beautiful job. Looks like the 1964 showroom...
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on July 24, 2010 - 10:15 AM
When you attached the Console to the deck how did you attach it? Did you just use the original holes or no?
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on July 20, 2010 - 9:50 AM
super clean, electrical, if there is one thing that bothers me, it is poor thought put into making wiring/cabling functional but also look good
thumbs up
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on July 11, 2010 - 7:06 PM
Where did you get that bimini top. Looks great.
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on July 6, 2010 - 6:48 AM
That is a tight job my friend ... Good work..
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on June 29, 2010 - 1:17 PM
So basically you just needed to extend the length of the tongue so you didn't have to back down the ramp too far with the truck. Do you keep the boat in a garage? If so, then your boat would still fit just by swinging the tongue back. At some ramps, I wish I had a longer tongue. Thanks for sharing this info.
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on June 29, 2010 - 4:10 AM
Thank you - It was quite a surreal day.
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on June 28, 2010 - 10:31 AM
I really admire the work you have done to your boat. Looks nice! Must have been some relief to finally put er into the water after a long restoration process.
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on June 22, 2010 - 6:20 PM
Thanks Joe. A lot of blood sweat and tears have gone into her.
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on June 20, 2010 - 7:00 PM
Whoa! Now I know why I never wanted to completely redo a boat. I would never want to take it out and get it dirty or take a chance on getting a nick in it. Looking Sharp...
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on June 16, 2010 - 5:09 PM
what kind of epoxy do you use and do you bore the hole out to fresh meat or do you just plug the exsisting?
Mark
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on June 12, 2010 - 9:20 PM
Gee Serge!
Better get the lead out!
Better get back to the refit before we all die of old age!
Yes , I know..
Will be back on track when the deck has been cleared.
Lots to be done yet..
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on June 10, 2010 - 4:21 PM
More for fun than anything. I would like to see if they attract bait fish but to be honest its not that important. I picked blue after looking at all the photos of different colors in the water - blue was the most pleasing to me. Of course who knows in our NJ brown water..lol
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on June 10, 2010 - 3:42 PM
Are the lights for fun or for fish? If they are for fish is there a particular reason you chose blue?
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on June 1, 2010 - 3:35 AM
Thanks Serge. Should be wrapping her up in the next few weeks.
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on May 31, 2010 - 8:49 PM
This is actually looking awfully good so far Scott!
Good clean lines.
Just love the console work.
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on May 21, 2010 - 4:35 PM
Thanks Serge. It did cause me problems because of the thickness - but nothing I couldn't solve.
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on May 21, 2010 - 4:18 PM
It is my pleasure to say that I have enjoyed the originality of your wooden Teak faced console.
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on May 20, 2010 - 4:38 PM
Can the Awlgrip #545 be hand painted on?
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on May 17, 2010 - 11:52 AM
Boat looks nice! That red rubrail really brings out the look of the boat. I'll be referring to your pictures because I'm now in the process of getting a fuel tank from alloy metal works. Makes me want to get my boat done so I can get it on the water. Did you go with the 40 gallon or the 4" shorter version which will be about 2 less gallons. The shop would have somebody else bend it up because their bender wasn't long enough, and also cost an additional $125.
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on May 16, 2010 - 3:28 PM
I had the same thing in one of my Outrages. Lots of old wires that weren't being used. Out they came.
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on May 7, 2010 - 1:56 PM
Very nice work. thats a beautiful boat
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on May 6, 2010 - 3:38 PM
+1...that is such a thorough job you did and the results reflect it. Beautiful.
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on May 5, 2010 - 10:44 AM
Robacc,
This picture is the top of the RPS, not the gunwhale top. I have not removed my gunwhales. I plan to scrape, sand and oil them in place
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on May 4, 2010 - 7:00 PM
Call mark at barbour. or sue at twin city marine.
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on May 2, 2010 - 7:52 AM
I need to remove and replace my 22 cuddy port gunwale top. Seems you have removed yours for resto. Was it a straight forward removal, or anything special that I need to know.
Thanks
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on April 30, 2010 - 11:14 AM
Love that console that is sort of what I will be needing for my boat
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on April 28, 2010 - 1:12 PM
Great Article and super pictures! I own a 1975 Revenge and the rub rail is in need of replacement. Pls reply to me as well as tolinga above! Thanks.
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on April 25, 2010 - 1:30 PM
Now we're talking. You've moved from a 15' to a 17' and now a 19'. As much work as you've put into this, it's looking real nice.
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on April 20, 2010 - 3:44 PM
Very nice and attentive work.
I can appreciate of your efforts.
Congrats on a job well done.
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on April 18, 2010 - 1:12 PM
Did you have to buy a full spool, or did she sell you only what you needed? I need the red rubrail for my Newport.
Thanks,
Frank
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on April 16, 2010 - 1:42 PM
Brett, mine are at the front of the console as tight as I could manage. Works well but that console is still small.
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on April 13, 2010 - 6:37 AM
Super clean, now be careful around those dirty dock posts with her.
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on April 12, 2010 - 6:30 AM
I like the white/white rub rail. Nice job!
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on April 10, 2010 - 4:32 PM
The paint I use is U-Tech 3.8
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on April 10, 2010 - 7:29 AM
She looks great. A job well done.
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on April 9, 2010 - 4:41 PM
What kind of paint did you use?
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on April 1, 2010 - 6:16 PM
I actually tried 3 different teak oils, which were all available locally, before I ordered the Daly's. As soon as I applied it, there was no question it was the best of the four, and it provided the look I was shooting for.
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on March 30, 2010 - 7:24 AM
I used Awlgrip #545 Epoxy Primer. First I lightly sanded the whole interior with 220. Very lightly on the floor. I then rolled on Interlux 2000E to the inside. The 2000E fills small cracks and such and is a good sealer. I sanded again with 220. And finally sprayed on the primer. I will be sraying the final coat of color soon.
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on March 29, 2010 - 7:12 PM
what primer did you use and how did you prepare the textured floor?
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on March 28, 2010 - 4:43 PM
Nice project. Hope it turns out well. I did the same thing mounting my two batteries in the console. Unfortunately I wish I had moved them forward a bit more so that my feet don't bump up against them, but that's minor.
Good luck!
Brett Morris
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on March 23, 2010 - 1:45 PM
Looks very nice. This has helped me to make my decision and finish with the Daly's Seafin. Nice work
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on March 14, 2010 - 1:30 PM
Looks great Joe. I just pulled all the wood off of my 1981 Montauk yesterday. Getting ready to sand it all down and get it ready for Spring. Labor of love. It's nice to see yours as some inspiration.
I have the same rod holders in my seat back. Do you know where I can get replacements that fit?
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on March 10, 2010 - 7:42 AM
Old hardware left long ago. The wood was in a state beyond repair. I wish I still had the cable steering components so that I could have at least donated them but they are gone also.
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on March 2, 2010 - 6:55 PM
Im redoing my 11 ft sport. Using same products same color.Im going to spray mine. I also bought a SS interior.Ill have to do some fabing as mine has the glass seat in back. Doesnt look too difficult tho. Has anyone ever done this before? thanks Tom
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on February 28, 2010 - 3:58 PM
Turpin, what did you do about the old hardware that came out of the boat. did you have refinished or did you buy new. thanks i have a 1963 i am redoing.
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on February 28, 2010 - 12:29 PM
It is awsome and works great. Plus it is an extra hub and bearings just in case. This is just a bolt on from Pacific trailors in Chino CA.
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on February 28, 2010 - 6:26 AM
I was going to try that but did a test hole and the screw did not grab once bottomed out, It will hold better and grab better into the plywood
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on February 28, 2010 - 6:24 AM
Thanks Joe, lots of work but I love doing it, cant wait to be back on the bay!
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on February 27, 2010 - 11:15 PM
You've been busy Rich. Looks like the project is coming along great.
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on February 23, 2010 - 7:25 PM
any new updates??
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on February 20, 2010 - 3:08 PM
I did a similar thing....though a little different...I stuffed chopped glass into the hole and then injected some thinned epoxy with a syringe....pack the glass tight and put the epoxy in really slowly...seems to work well..
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on February 16, 2010 - 11:42 PM
Mike, sorry for the late answer. I haven't been around here for a while. The bow light wire runs right behind the rubrail. When the rubrail is being replaced it's a piece of cake.
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on February 15, 2010 - 6:24 PM
That is a good idea. Wish I would have thought of that before I redid my spare tire mount.
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on February 6, 2010 - 6:39 AM
Please do. Would love to see them
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on February 2, 2010 - 11:08 PM
where did you get that center console and the seat have been looking all over for that.
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on February 2, 2010 - 4:12 PM
Thanks for the info, I will give them a call. I have two projects on the go.. my Montauk, like yours and a 89 Revenge WT. I have just finished the teak and everything should be ready to launch shortly. I will post some pictures.
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on February 2, 2010 - 1:35 PM
I too recently purchased a 1985 13'. These pictures are great thanks for the info!
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on February 1, 2010 - 9:52 PM
Thanks, she has been great since getting her wet. The fish are lovin the new look as well!!
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on February 1, 2010 - 9:50 PM
Tony, if you are referring to the swim step it is a martin marine step. It is made to fit the montauk. You can find them on ebay or contact them direct. I believe it is martinmarine.com. Expensive but a great step
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on January 31, 2010 - 7:46 PM
Great looking job, love the inside of the console, really nice.
Where did you get the swim grid as I am looking for one for my boat.
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on January 31, 2010 - 6:57 PM
Job well done! looks great!
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on January 28, 2010 - 1:01 PM
I can tell you spared no expense Scott. The wife must be very understanding.
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on January 26, 2010 - 9:41 AM
She's looking great buddy. Let me know if you need me to come and help....
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on January 26, 2010 - 3:59 AM
The solution I found in order to protect my tank is to cover i twith a coat of Rhinno Lining. Check pictures on my personal page. The tank is protected from whater but also from fuel. It's great and once and for all solution
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on January 22, 2010 - 7:04 PM
The gelcoat was redone by a professional - now it comes home to me for the finishing -
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on January 22, 2010 - 7:02 PM
Thanks - I going all out on this one..
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on January 22, 2010 - 4:36 PM
Hi, if I remember right, there is an access panel (a round plate) that sits vertically) located in the front of the of the anchor locker. Just open up the anchor locker and it should be there. Then reach in and you will have access to the nuts to hold back on when you unscrew it.
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on January 22, 2010 - 2:25 PM
AKA Footman Loop or Footman's Loop
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on January 22, 2010 - 2:02 PM
Awesome job scott! I like the trailer.
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on January 22, 2010 - 12:58 PM
whata a gorgeous job...did you do the work yourself or did you have someone do the redo on the hull and deck??? Nice loking boat, gorgeous, henry
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on January 22, 2010 - 3:01 AM
Hi tyno22,
how did you unscrew the bow chock. Is that difficult? I'm going to polish up mine too.
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on January 21, 2010 - 7:05 PM
I guess Ritchie doesn't repair old compass's like this. Now a days many are plastic and when one needs to be replaced, they are considered to be tossed away. Viking repairs many kinds of compass's. They refer much of their work there I guess.
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on January 21, 2010 - 5:11 PM
Out of curiosity, why did you send it to Viking instead of Ritchie?
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on January 21, 2010 - 9:32 AM
Was the dive door ever a problem with taking water from the side?
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on January 19, 2010 - 2:32 PM
Great looking boat. I can't wait for the weather to improve this year of 2010. Nice job on the hull and paint removal
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on January 19, 2010 - 2:30 PM
beautiful.
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on January 18, 2010 - 8:28 PM
Eric,
I've got to ask you... How did you snake the bow light wire through?
Mike
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on January 18, 2010 - 7:50 PM
Erik,
Did you do anything more than sand it, fill it, and sand it again to get good results?
I've got a lot on my 11' that I'm restoring.
Thanks,
Mike
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on January 17, 2010 - 5:23 PM
Joe, this is before stripping the piece. I have updated the album and added comments to each photo.
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on January 17, 2010 - 4:53 PM
Is this before or after? What are you trying to show us here?
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on December 31, 2009 - 6:46 PM
Harley, I am proud of her and am enjoying the time aboard. I have had her out three times and she has been flawless and the fish are loving her as well. Life is good.
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on December 30, 2009 - 4:31 AM
Awesome job !
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on December 20, 2009 - 4:57 AM
make sure you put the blocks in the same orientation as they do when they build a foundation or they can crack and ruin your day (and health record) It looks like you have done this on this boat.
Rather than use one set of seperate blocks on each side of the keel in the rear of the boat, I use 3 sets cinderblocks with 6x6 on top and then block the boat between the 6x6 and hull w/4x4's or 2x4'. this way if boat shifts or gets bumped, it won't fall off one stack of blocks- the 6x6 and 3 sets of blocks are more stable
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on December 19, 2009 - 10:25 AM
Great Pic!
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on December 16, 2009 - 6:10 PM
Further on in this project album he states where he bought the insert.
http://www.kentfab.com/Transdaptor%20...r%2013.htm
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on December 16, 2009 - 4:00 PM
Where did you find that motor mount insert?
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on December 16, 2009 - 8:28 AM
Nice job. Awesome!
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on December 14, 2009 - 1:22 PM
Soy strip worked fairly well. Had to cover and leave on for an extended amount of time but all and all ok. Blasting would have been quicker and easier but a bit more expensive.
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on December 14, 2009 - 1:16 PM
Joe, the hatches were made by buck woodcraft. buckwoodcraft.com They have lots of sizes on their website. Mine are I believe 14.5 x 20 for the sides and 15 x 28 for the front. The frame is 1.5" great doors. PM me if you have any more questions
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on December 14, 2009 - 7:57 AM
Thanks - My first big four stroke motor - really looking forward to it.
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on December 14, 2009 - 7:52 AM
Very nice Scott. Looks like she is really coming together.
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on December 10, 2009 - 10:04 AM
Bass Pro I believe. I got it on one of those trips just wandering around looking at things. I made a stainless one for my 13' Whaler but liked this one alot. That Honda is heavy and I like the thought of distributing some of that weight.
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on December 8, 2009 - 2:53 PM
was givin hull like yours mine has no HIN can you tell me year and model of yours
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on December 8, 2009 - 2:45 PM
was given a hull that looks like yours can you tell me year and model of yours mine is missing hin
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on November 30, 2009 - 7:59 AM
Hi reeltime, I used cinderblocks with wood on top. Seems pretty stable, I've been storing boats like this for years. The local marinas do the same.
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on November 29, 2009 - 5:49 AM
How are you supporting that boat? I need to work on my Dauntless 13 bottom side and replace trailer rails...
thanks,
reeltime
skilledprotherapy@yahoo.com
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on November 23, 2009 - 7:14 AM
All I can say is great job! It truly is a labor of love. You should be proud of her.
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on November 23, 2009 - 7:02 AM
Where did you get the plate for the upper transom bolts?
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on November 23, 2009 - 6:53 AM
How well did the soy strip work? I decided on soda blasting instead. Sodablasting job came out ok, not as great as I thought, but not bad. Cost me $600 though.
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on November 22, 2009 - 1:30 PM
Hello Blue_Northern,
I'm just about to start a rehap project on my own 19ft 1975 outrage, and before I attempt to cut out the floor as you did, I was wondering how did you put it back in? Were you able to reuse the old one? if not, what sort of floor did you put in?
My reason for asking is mine too has, what I think is, a substantial amount of water in the hull. After reading your posts, I recall you saying that you had good luck drying out the foam by removing the floor, and rolling it into the sun for days on end.
Any advice you have to lend of this boat rehab would be great....
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on November 21, 2009 - 8:30 AM
Sometimes its hard to keep yourself from doing things that don't know and praying they will!
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on November 11, 2009 - 12:11 PM
Kevin, Yes. This is where the foam was injected. If you look inside the locker of your 18' you will find the same thing except the cover is different and no screws.
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on November 11, 2009 - 10:04 AM
It may be standard, but what is it? Phil thinks it may be to inject the foam into the hull.
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on November 10, 2009 - 2:57 PM
This appears to be standard on the 9' models. See this Members Personal Page
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on November 9, 2009 - 7:51 PM
What size and what manufacturer are your console hatches? Great job!!! Also redoing an '83 Montauk. New Suzuki 90 4-stroke on the way. Want to replace the wood hatches with plastic. Thanks. Joe
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on November 9, 2009 - 12:50 PM
Thanks Mark. I have always liked the carpeting. It keeps things from getting scratched up and moving around too much. Plus it looks really nice also.
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on November 8, 2009 - 5:36 PM
Great boat! The 25 is an ideal size for offshore fishing, and with the new e-techs it must be perking!
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on November 7, 2009 - 5:33 PM
Incredible! Carpeting! You set the bar really high. I'll have to start all over again!
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on October 28, 2009 - 9:57 PM
Allenpoteat, the price was right. The restoration is a labor of love but very enjoyable for me. I used Soy Strip for the bottom paint. It worked very well. The remaining paint I sanded off with 100 grit and a 6" pneumatic random orbital sander. For the gel I used Spectrum. Very expensive but they do have the original colors. With a little modification the color match was perfect. You can't tell it was re gelled even around the hull stencil #. I am pleased with the results. Good luck with your project!
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on October 28, 2009 - 5:55 AM
I just purchased my 1st whaler for $100. it is a 83 hull 17'. It has been painted over with what looks to be house paint. I have my work cut out for me with the restoration. I was wondering what you used to strip your hull and what type/name gel coat you used?
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on October 26, 2009 - 7:54 PM
very nice work. the pictures are great so clear. I just got a 13.3 1969. and i just starting the sanding the info will help so much thanks
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on October 26, 2009 - 6:12 PM
Yes indeed,
Being caught doing a break job on my Tahoe while I should have paid attention to my photo comments.
Well here it is;
Chuck was so kind as to give me the factory number such as;
BWCA8850M75D.
I will be soon update my model ID and such.
Thanks for the reminder Joe.
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on October 26, 2009 - 6:07 PM
Hey Flippa,
It is really not that hard.
Start with a thorough clean up, remove the offended parts and plan phase one of your refit.
Does not have to be done all at once.
This should be for quality time really..
It is the only way that one can find the energy and motivation to "get her done".
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on October 21, 2009 - 5:29 AM
HI,
I'm about to embarb on my own rehap of a 1975 19 Outrage, and found these pics and comments very helpful. I have a question to ask before I begin; My boat weights roughly 2,600 lbs as she sits, no motor & a full tank of gas. I know they say these should weigh 1,500 dry and fresh off the line. That would mean my boat has 1,000 lbs of water in it? Can this be true? and if so is it too far gone to save? Lastly; how would one go about draining at least some of the retained water out over the winter.
Thanks .....Luke
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on October 19, 2009 - 2:17 PM
ritzyrags, so what HIN number was Chuck able to give you?
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on October 16, 2009 - 7:25 PM
The refit is looking great!
Wish I had the time & ambition to give my old sorry hulk the same love you are showing this lucky boat.
Good looking dog, looks just like my little girl Mojo.
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on October 15, 2009 - 8:36 AM
I did 3/8 for both layers and it did great also. It was a little higher but I don't think it will be a issue. Someone used 3 layers of 1/4 staggered I believe.
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on October 14, 2009 - 10:14 AM
Hi,did you use 3/8's ply for the first layer? I thought that that was 1/4" in the drawings to make the hatch flush with the deck. When I did mine I used the 1/4" first and then 1/2", with the joints stagered, came out great.
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on October 14, 2009 - 8:39 AM
Same as on my 84 18ft outrage.
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on October 13, 2009 - 5:26 PM
Thanks Joe! She will truly be a brand new 19 Whaler when its done.
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on October 13, 2009 - 2:12 PM
Nice to see it coming back together Scott. Looking good.
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on October 12, 2009 - 2:33 PM
Absolutely, the original plan was to mount 1 hole up. But while mounting I realized how low it had been and decided to go 2 holes up. I left all my options open.
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on October 10, 2009 - 7:42 AM
Thank you!!!
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on October 9, 2009 - 9:55 PM
Looks great. So, you could still lower the engine 1 hole if it was absolutely necessary, correct?
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on October 3, 2009 - 3:01 PM
You are correct Joe. I did cheat the entire pattern up 1/4" though. But it now shows that with a proper jig at the 7 1/4" pattern you will hit inside the splashwell right where it starts to curve.
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on October 3, 2009 - 10:37 AM
Looks like the bottom bolts and washers have plenty of room in the splashwell. That is 7 1/4" vertical spacing, correct?
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on September 30, 2009 - 1:55 PM
how in the heck did you get it flipped over.
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on September 28, 2009 - 9:22 PM
I just rebuilt the tilt/trim unit for the motor and am planning on remounting her on Friday night. Then it is just wiring and rigging. Should have some really good rigging pics in about a week or two. Thanks
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on September 28, 2009 - 8:43 AM
Thanks for posting. Would love to see pics of electrical wiring after.
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on September 28, 2009 - 8:14 AM
nice work, thanks for the details. I just bought a 13 to restore the info is very helpful.
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on September 19, 2009 - 10:37 AM
How is project coming along?
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on September 19, 2009 - 10:32 AM
Looking good
Keep us update on progress.
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on September 11, 2009 - 5:52 AM
Where can i find a seat like that.
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on September 9, 2009 - 6:48 PM
Thanks for posting... About to start a similaar project
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on September 7, 2009 - 8:16 PM
I used bondo-glass on a previous repair to this hull 12 years ago and during the restoration found some of those spots. It's still holding. as long as it is used to fill dents and and low spots it has held up great. There was one spot I used it to fill a hole and it did not work. over the years it cracked loose. So that area was repaired with mess patch then bondo-glass to blend after patch had cured.
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on September 4, 2009 - 6:37 PM
Kids (of all ages) love whalers
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on September 4, 2009 - 6:35 PM
Looking good, keep us updated
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on September 3, 2009 - 9:19 PM
Love it.
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on August 31, 2009 - 9:49 AM
I plan on tr-doing a 1964 13' I have. I was going to add a center console. Does anyone have any general diminsions or plans for a 13' console??
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on August 24, 2009 - 12:34 PM
How are you doing on interior? Any updated pics, can't wait to see her complete.
Here in Florida I am sure there are our share of storm damaged boats out there needing some TLC.
Nice work....
How bout an update oldmanwhaler
Hey anything new for us?
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on August 22, 2009 - 8:47 PM
Not sure what you mean by barrier coat, if you mean primer, I used a Sikkens Urethane primer. I have had great success with that primer and from what I've read it appears to be the automotive version of Awlgrip (both from Akzo Nobel).
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on August 21, 2009 - 4:33 PM
Great job. I will be painting a 13 BW with awlgrip and would love to know the paint # of the interior and where you purchased the paint. Any help that you can provide would be very much appriciated. Thanks.
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on August 21, 2009 - 2:27 PM
Great job! I hope my 1973 will look that good when i get her done. Did you use gelcoat or epoxy for the barrier coat?
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on August 21, 2009 - 2:13 PM
I used bondo glass on my 73 sourpuss, worked verry well.only time will determine how well it holds up!
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on August 17, 2009 - 7:14 AM
Hey Thor,
I see that you bought the boat..
She looks good enough.
OK;
As far as the measurements are concerned;
The teak hatch measures 16 3/8" by 42" long.
The hatch has, as you can see rounded edges and is held together underneath with 3 cross members of the same material measuring 2" wide and measuring 12 7/8" long
The two outer ones are specifically positioned @ 1 3/4" from each end of the under panel.
It will be noted that each outer end edges on the two members mentioned above will be rounded off in order to fit the inside edges of the boat's fish well.
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on August 13, 2009 - 4:55 PM
Sorry, I thought I had taken plenty of pictures, through the repair process, I must have lost them. I used all MAS Epoxy products for the repairs. Alot of sanding of course. I sprayed on an epoxy primer, then sprayed on 4 coats of U-Tech paint. U-Tech is the same as DuPont Emron. As for the interior I am going to build a new one out of utile, similar to mahogany, just a little harder. Send me a PM about the old interior. I will probably sell after I make my patterns.
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on August 11, 2009 - 7:41 PM
Yes Joe;
It is the cap section that a lot of the guys will have given up on upon buying those models.
I have understood through careful assessment and study that there is three grade of fiberglass in the model's components of this model.
And all three of them with a different degrees of fiberglass density and hardness.
The cap has been discarded in some of these choices for aesthetic or a non willingness to repair .
Inept docking practices will be the reason for this kind of damage.
The cap was refasten by using stainless fasteners;
An emergency repair at best.
I do remember my disapproval the first time that I felt the section with my hand.
And then, did look at the port section and saw the same...
And understood that the same "operator" had been docking this poor girl in need.
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on August 11, 2009 - 7:27 PM
Well;
The black is actually from the primer coatings from the cap section taping in phase one.
Look carefully at the bottom of the cap section meeting with the deck.
There is a U shaped molding encapsulating the bottom section of the cap/locker section separating the cap and deck fiberglass sections.
The molding has been crushed in some areas and was remedied by slicing the whole lip section off with my fateful cutting wheel;
Leaving a clean and workable surface..
Ready for a makeover.
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on August 11, 2009 - 5:31 PM
Wow. I never would have thought that boat would turn out so nice! Great work. Details please...what products did you use to fill, fair, paint etc? I notice that you are quite an artist with wood. Are you going to rebuild the mahogany? Would you like to sell the old Super Sport interior? It looks to be in good shape.
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on August 11, 2009 - 1:55 PM
It is factory 1/16 fiberglass backed nonskid paneling.
The very material part that will cover the rubber vent hose tunnel from the tank below to the vent orifice on the Port gunnel side.
And a largely contributing factor in water intrusion to the tank cavity on this specific model.
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on August 10, 2009 - 7:31 PM
What is the non skid material you are using here? You don't say that in your description.
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on August 6, 2009 - 6:37 PM
I would definitely do this again. It wasn't as hard to build and fit as you would think. Works and looks great.
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on August 4, 2009 - 11:50 AM
Way to go...lookin'great. I too have an Outrage 18. It didn't receive quite as much "love" yours did in its previous life, hope mine turns out as well.Good luck with her.
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on August 4, 2009 - 10:40 AM
I like the black rub rail better also. If you haven't checked the weight do that. we have the same boat with a 25hp Johnson and it scoots at 19 MPH with one big guy in the boat.
See how she persorms at to whether it is worth openning her up.
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on August 4, 2009 - 2:15 AM
Please update your restoration and post new progress pics.
We want to see how she is coming along.
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on August 4, 2009 - 2:12 AM
Is that the worst damage? Looks fixable.
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on July 31, 2009 - 6:01 AM
Great idea on the fiberglsass tube. Here is a question:
DId you think about using PVC instead and would you do the fiberglass tube again?
tnwhaler15
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on July 30, 2009 - 1:22 PM
Super job on the resto and photos, too.
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on July 30, 2009 - 1:18 PM
Excellent use of "bucket clamps"
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on July 29, 2009 - 7:36 AM
Thanks guys, still have a long way to go.
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on July 29, 2009 - 7:00 AM
That is a really nice looking boat period! Excellent Job.
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on July 29, 2009 - 6:29 AM
Thanks, I'm still here studying the site everyday. I'm in builders withdraws though now that I'm done. I don't have any excuses for the honey do list that grown. The lucky part is that since it is a boat there is always something left to do. I really can't wait til this winter so that I can get the wood done and hopefully freshen up the motor. The floor will also get redone as I got to carried away with painting over the texture (griptex), It is dangerous on bare feet. I tried to blend a shine issue, it will be rectified this winter. This particular picture was a week at the lake and sea trials. My neighbors couldn't believe the boat was almost 50 years old. The best part was when the boat flooded after a severe storm, I jumped in the swamped boat (10in. of water) pulled the plug and the boat slowly drained. The neighbors were awestruck.
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on July 28, 2009 - 11:42 PM
Serge, do you have the meassurements on this? Mine is missing and I need to make a new one.
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on July 28, 2009 - 8:47 PM
When I get discouraged I often STUDY your project. You've done a great job. Now the boat is finished and we won't see you anymore. There was a $99 13 on eBay a couple of days ago that could use your help...
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on July 28, 2009 - 7:15 AM
Good luck that was a real "find"
How did she look just after her first good bath?
Keep us updated.
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on July 28, 2009 - 7:10 AM
Great job CLIFF, love that exotic wood you used for dash.
I had a 15 cc and always wanted to raise it up six inches for better height. I see you did just that.
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on July 24, 2009 - 9:21 PM
I like the black rail, for contrast.
Nice work and enjoy her.
Be safe, she will never leave you.
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on July 24, 2009 - 7:44 PM
Great find! I look forward to seeing the end product!
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on July 23, 2009 - 12:06 PM
did you pull the gas tanks, what did you do to have the deposits inside the tank from breaking down.. if you replaced the tanks where did you get the tanks, or what method did you use to clean tanks of old varnish build up inside from fouling the filter/separators
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on July 22, 2009 - 4:15 PM
Hey Kevin, Looks like your are ready to rock-and-roll and Great job. Good Luck!!!
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on July 19, 2009 - 4:36 PM
For all of us that have never taken apart a banana, is this normal or abnormal? What are we looking at? Is this part of some kind of cap?
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on July 19, 2009 - 4:28 PM
What's the damaged border of? I don't see any damage other than blue paint and some shadow. Please advise.
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on July 19, 2009 - 11:44 AM
Good luck to you just got through restoring my 1978 Low-Profile turned out great , sure was a lot of work, will be taking it back to the coast in morning , for storage after fishing trip
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on July 16, 2009 - 11:58 AM
Actually Joe, it is missing from BOTH sides. Go figure.
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on July 13, 2009 - 2:54 PM
I sent them to another WC member and he took them over to a shop he has used before. I do not know what these parts ended up costing when all was said and done.
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on July 13, 2009 - 2:52 PM
I really do not know because Sraab928 sent them to a shop in his area. When I got them back they looked like new and I never talked to the shop. It took a few months to get them done but I was in no hurry. Thanks Scott!
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on July 13, 2009 - 2:49 PM
I am still working on her but hope to be done around the end of this year.
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on July 9, 2009 - 11:22 AM
Congratulations! Looks awesome. Just done with mine after 9 months. Great feeling to get back in the water.
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on July 8, 2009 - 5:01 PM
Just curious - why did you gel the inside and paint the hull? Any reason why you didn't go all gel or all paint? Regardless, she looks great.
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on July 8, 2009 - 1:09 PM
Just in case you don't know and want to add this, the decal on the side near the transom is missing the 18'...
The decal should read OUTRAGE-18'
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=52
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on July 5, 2009 - 4:41 PM
You did an excellent job restoring this and adding your personal touches.
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on July 3, 2009 - 8:41 PM
Did you paint up the engines Mike? Looking good!
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on July 2, 2009 - 12:57 PM
very nice job i also did a project over the last winter. Here is the link for my project
http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...r_id=10732
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on June 26, 2009 - 6:54 PM
It is gel coat. Original Whaler light grey. Lots of sanding then buffing then waxing. Gonna wax one more time then flip next tues or wednesday. Then start sanding the inside.
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on June 26, 2009 - 10:00 AM
did you gel coat it or just paint?
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on June 23, 2009 - 6:14 AM
Turpin, I will let you know as soon as I splash it.
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on June 23, 2009 - 6:13 AM
Every winter, as part of his winterization, the owner would have the motor pulled off of the boat and stored inside the marina. I had the motor installed last week. Will post some pics soon.
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on June 22, 2009 - 7:54 PM
If it doesn't move, paint it... or, in the case of the speed wheel, paint it anyway...
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on June 22, 2009 - 7:53 PM
The decisions some people make are interesting. I wonder how well those gadgets worked?
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on June 22, 2009 - 3:50 PM
Harley, where's the 1999 Johnson 150 that came with this boat?
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on June 15, 2009 - 5:27 PM
i need dims for the wood i want to put a bigger console like the one thats in the 15 ft whaler. if u have any info e mail me wcorrado@verizon.net. i think i am painting the inside this week . thanks billy
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on June 14, 2009 - 12:20 PM
What an awesome project. You must be proud of that amazing boat.
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on June 10, 2009 - 3:51 AM
Thank you! They were plated at Frankford Plating in Philadelphia.
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on June 4, 2009 - 8:38 PM
Thanks, I will hopefully have the inside done in a week or so. I'm ready for some a closure of this project.
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on June 1, 2009 - 6:09 PM
looks great my 1963 is all most there. you saw pictures last year all is primed now the the sanding and then paint. 2beach
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on May 23, 2009 - 6:22 PM
Beautiful job I will be looking for a 17' soon to restore.....What primer under top coat of awlgrip?
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on May 20, 2009 - 1:28 AM
where are the serial number located at? i just picked up a whaler but i don't know what year it is and the title of the boat has the year as 0000. And the boat been repainted several times.
P.S. - Good luck on this project.
as i already started tearing down my boat to refinish it.
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on May 13, 2009 - 11:02 PM
Fantastic. Let's see some more photos of the finished project.
Keith Graumann
190 Montauk
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on May 6, 2009 - 6:18 PM
FANTASTIC...If I can find the covers for the hatches my 20 will look the same ! Any info would be helpfull.
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on May 6, 2009 - 6:09 PM
nice preservation ! great job...
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on May 5, 2009 - 5:07 PM
Looks great Mike, can't wait to see the rest of the boat when it's done! What's your new instrument panel made from and how was it cut? Does the new binnacle mean new power is in the cards or is it just replacing the old?
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on May 4, 2009 - 12:39 PM
I will post photos next week when I get her back from the glass shop. I have been out of town for the last 3 weeks. I should be able to update photos next week.
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on May 4, 2009 - 12:38 PM
12", 1/2" diameter
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on May 4, 2009 - 12:37 PM
Joe, southcomarine.com and yes I could not find one with the length needed in the dimensions I wanted. So I welded stainless rod to make the right length. Very nice eyes, the landing plate is welded and polished.
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on May 4, 2009 - 12:35 PM
Joe, that would be no problem. You assumed right about how it was done. I also have the teflon rods for fixing the glass and a rod machined for tapping out the draintubes.
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on May 3, 2009 - 9:00 PM
sauerkraut. That is NOT a stern light. That is a masthead light which raises up high when in use. These are standard on almost all Outrage and Guardian series Classic Whalers. If someone removes that masthead light, it would no longer have the original look.
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on May 3, 2009 - 7:39 PM
Mike, I feel that you just have to rid your console of those two lights. They are eating up the only horizontal flat space on the console. And how can you stand having the white "stern" light utterly destroying your night vision?
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on May 3, 2009 - 2:11 AM
So how is the restoration going? any new pictures?
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on April 30, 2009 - 8:31 PM
Yes: Cramped and crammed. It won't be fun when I'm back in there repairing or replacing something. But the other 49 out of 50 times I open into my center console, I won't have all this stuff staring at me and taking up valuable space.
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on April 29, 2009 - 12:07 AM
Looks like tight quarters in there.
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on April 24, 2009 - 12:39 PM
sea gypsie. Absolutely NOT... The majority of the wood on a Montauk and Outrage is Teak...
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on April 24, 2009 - 6:18 AM
I am in the process of refinishing all the wood on my 18' outrage, I have in the past used teak oil also. But isn't the wood mahogony? And if so would varinsh be better?
Thanks
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on April 24, 2009 - 1:14 AM
Thanks for sharing and testing out the project album section. Looks like a very nice install you have.
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on April 23, 2009 - 7:22 PM
Any exterior photos of the new style eye mounted?
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on April 23, 2009 - 7:20 PM
Where did you purchase this bow eye? It looks like you welded some extensions on it. Yes?
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on April 23, 2009 - 7:18 PM
How long of a drill did you need to use?
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on April 23, 2009 - 7:15 PM
Any chance of loaning this block out to members that might be doing the same upgrade as you did? I assume the bolt is thru the original single hole in the hull and that the block will keep the drill next to the same path as the original hole.
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on April 23, 2009 - 5:39 PM
1976 19 foot outrage. popped the top and glassed in a front deck
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on April 23, 2009 - 3:51 PM
1971 Outrage?
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on April 18, 2009 - 3:01 PM
Looks Awesome!
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on April 14, 2009 - 6:42 AM
is that what is called ice next to the shore!!!!
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on April 13, 2009 - 8:05 PM
no wayne sorry I do not just look every day and ask around from time to time
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on April 5, 2009 - 9:49 PM
Initial estimate was $900. It looks like we are going to spray gel inside and out including the console leaving only the nonskid not sprayed. Price will go up some not sure yet. Unfortunitly sanding costs $. Will know more tomorrow. This way when I see her next I can start rigging.
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on April 5, 2009 - 7:39 AM
I really like this idea because you are guaranteed no rot in the transom when those famous brass sleeves fail. I will definitely be doing this for my bottom most plug in my project boat.
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on April 3, 2009 - 7:03 PM
What are they charging you?
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on April 3, 2009 - 10:42 AM
Thanks, she is now at the glass shop getting sprayed. It is the only part I chose not to do. Big job and I am not equipped. Can't wait to get her back for rigging.:P
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on April 3, 2009 - 9:23 AM
Nice job
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on April 2, 2009 - 6:37 AM
I'm running a 40hp and I think it's plenty of power for the 13' BW. We use this boat for fishing and kneeboarding too.
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on March 31, 2009 - 1:09 PM
These look great! Where did you have them re-plated?
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on March 31, 2009 - 1:09 PM
Awl grip http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/...d+Additive
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on March 31, 2009 - 1:07 PM
Non skid will go during the painting process. I'm going with a Tan interior
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on March 30, 2009 - 7:39 PM
Wow. Looks way better. Are you painting or gel coating the interior? Are you going back with the blue?
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on March 30, 2009 - 10:13 AM
Hey cliff, what do you think the ideal horse power is for your skiff.
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on March 29, 2009 - 5:33 AM
Looks nice. Did you use anything to non skid the floor or does that go on with the finish coat?
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on March 27, 2009 - 12:18 PM
you are going to love it.
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on March 27, 2009 - 9:44 AM
I would like to know what happened to the hull cap from the mischeif and how much it would cost to get one.:)
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on March 26, 2009 - 4:23 PM
NEW MEMBER i HAVE A 1964 17' MODEL AND RE DOING EVERYTHING. i AM AT THE STAGE TO DO THE CONSOLE. DO YOU HAVE INFO ON USED CONSOLES
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on March 20, 2009 - 12:10 PM
how are you re-doing nonskid bottom?
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on March 12, 2009 - 7:47 AM
I hope my 13 SS project turns out as good as your's.
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on March 10, 2009 - 4:35 AM
Mine is all original on the interior, and came as you see it in the picture. My main damage is on the side. It was leaning against a barn for a long time, sitting on the ground and not propped up. There was previous damage and wood was used in the repair. All the wood was rotted out and the foam made a wonderfull home for some critters. More pics to follow.
ss
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on March 9, 2009 - 5:21 PM
I just got a '72 from Craigslist too! But mine came with four coats of different blue paints, a trailer and a pile o' parts! Do you have blue gel coat or is it painted? I'm trying to make mine a fairly original Sport. My outside hull is nearly perfect but the interior is a blue scabby mess. And I can only get down to it on weekends. I haven't summoned the courage to open a personal album. Good luck!
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on March 7, 2009 - 5:17 AM
Have you had the boat on the water with the Honda 20? How did it perform? was it enough power? Thanks
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on March 5, 2009 - 5:46 PM
This is a 64 , the numbers were still stenciled on
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on March 2, 2009 - 10:28 AM
Thanks. I think the console is now at the proper height for me, I'm 6'0". I plan on trying her out this weekend on the lake to see how functional the newly rebuilt console is.
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on March 1, 2009 - 10:59 AM
Congrats!! Very Very nice..one of the nicest 13's out there!
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on March 1, 2009 - 10:14 AM
Nice job. Looks just right with coloring and height.
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on February 28, 2009 - 9:09 AM
Looks great ! What year is your boat? Did you have a hard time locating hull id number?
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on February 27, 2009 - 1:10 AM
Im restoring a 1970 13ft whaler..... Where can I get the same trimming on your whaler? also inside your boat is that painted rhino liner? will that work?
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on February 24, 2009 - 6:38 PM
not a problem
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on February 15, 2009 - 10:17 PM
Clembob, this was the first go around with this boat just to get her going. I used fuse blocks and terminal blocks to keep everything neat. This time I will do the same but plan on moving everything to the bow side of the console and putting a large fuse panel with auto style pull out fuses. I am going to flush mount my radios where the wiring is shown in the pics. All wiring this time will be up high and to the bow side to allow for storage. The batts actually sit on the deck through the floor of the console relieving the stress to the console floor and making for more storage. Oh and a interior light in the console as well is neat. I will post more pics when I get to that point.
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on February 15, 2009 - 1:44 PM
So do you have any recommendations for re-wiring a center console? My wiring looks the same and I am sure it needs some care. Any recommendations?
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on February 14, 2009 - 6:52 PM
did you finish this boat
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on February 9, 2009 - 10:38 AM
Very nice I have to upload my pics but i've just completed my 13 whaler don't know the model and year if i post some pics will you tell me mines has a round transom as well.
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on February 2, 2009 - 6:47 PM
how's it going ?,waiting for some new pics
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on February 2, 2009 - 6:43 PM
Thankyou all for your comments, to LabCab the awlgrip is all sprayed except for the nonskid which I rolled
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on February 2, 2009 - 6:38 PM
http://www.kentfab.com/Transdaptor%20...r%2013.htm
Thankyou Dan , you can get the bracket from the above web site
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on February 1, 2009 - 6:19 AM
that wood will come out beatiful. good luck!
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on February 1, 2009 - 4:03 AM
What a great job you have done. A class act rebuild!!!!
Where did you get the engine bracket??? I am upgrading a sourpuss for my wife.
Dan Lowery
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on January 31, 2009 - 7:40 PM
Did you spray or roll the awlgrip? You've done a wonderful job!
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on January 30, 2009 - 4:38 AM
the duratec can be sprayed or rolled ,for this one i rolled it
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on January 27, 2009 - 11:02 PM
Very nice work!you mention duratec primer to fill,is it in a spray liquid form?
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on January 26, 2009 - 6:05 PM
First I fixed all the dings then sanded the nonskid off .Then
used a duratec primer to fill the rest in ,sanded that then primed and painted with awlgrip and used thier griptex
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on January 26, 2009 - 6:00 PM
I used awlgrip inside and out on this one
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on January 26, 2009 - 5:58 PM
it is awlgrip bw blue it's not on the chart but they have it, i have the paint code at my shop not sure of hand
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on January 24, 2009 - 9:46 PM
What paint product and color did you use???
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on January 22, 2009 - 8:43 PM
HI,is this gelcote or somthing else?
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on January 20, 2009 - 7:33 PM
Looks awesome. Did you re-gelcoat or paint the interior?
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on January 19, 2009 - 9:49 AM
Check our link out in the Vendors Web Links or go here: http://www.kentfab.com/Transdaptor%20...r%2013.htm
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on January 19, 2009 - 8:11 AM
Where did you get that insert bracket?
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on January 18, 2009 - 5:07 PM
All I can say is WOW. It is so shiny It looks like could slip right off of it... How did you prep the none skid?
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on January 12, 2009 - 7:12 AM
sent you a pm bduperr
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on January 11, 2009 - 8:19 AM
Any idea where I can obtain a grab rail and whindshiled for my 78 Montauk? It has original console, no windshiled or grab bars. Yours for sale?
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on January 10, 2009 - 9:35 AM
Great job! question, I want to paint the interior of my whaler- if i use gel coat, won't that make the floor slippery?
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on January 6, 2009 - 11:18 AM
Where did you get the stand up console? Do you like it?
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on January 2, 2009 - 9:13 PM
looking good.
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on December 31, 2008 - 2:43 PM
Thanks. It's got more walkroom than many much larger Whaler's, and for me, it's all about utilitarianism.
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on December 31, 2008 - 2:42 PM
Hauling (*something), but it ain't mail.
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on December 31, 2008 - 5:59 AM
No I bought this one, then when I found the rps in New York (Internet purchases). The guy made me a price on console and rps that I could not turn down. I sold that console local. The third was for a family member who has a whaler with a butt ugly console. Just as I told him it would be impossible to find him a console one was listed out in Texas. To make a short story long I only have the one console left.
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on December 31, 2008 - 5:52 AM
Thanks buckwheat. the side door I just had to cut materal out of the way but the front door I is not as wide so I had to add a bit of fiberglass on the sides and cut out the top and bottom.
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on December 30, 2008 - 4:29 PM
If you want to sell the old one, let me know.
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on December 30, 2008 - 11:22 AM
wow, that looks great. . .I'd love to do something like that to my montauk.
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on December 29, 2008 - 7:24 PM
It looks like you have 3 consoles for this boat now. Are they all going to fit in the Lo-Pro?
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on December 14, 2008 - 10:00 AM
Wow!,
The exterior is equally impressive.
Tom
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on December 14, 2008 - 9:59 AM
The interior looks like new. I have to tackle my 1968 and I keep putting it off fearing that I'll do a less than acceptable job. What's the secret?
Tom
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on December 5, 2008 - 11:06 AM
please instruct me how to perform the nonskid installation after the interior has been gel coated - first class job - she really shines
watjam
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on November 30, 2008 - 3:32 AM
Sorry for the late reply, I didn't notice the comment until now.
The switches are for the nav. lights and anchor light. Beside the tach is a 24V power outlet (cigarette lighter style).
Erik
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on November 19, 2008 - 11:29 AM
What are the three switches for? And what is that to the right of the tach?
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on November 16, 2008 - 4:44 PM
which company did you use to re-chrome???
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on November 12, 2008 - 1:24 PM
WHERE DID YOU SEND THEM AND HOW MUCH DID THOSE COST?
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on November 10, 2008 - 1:54 AM
if it was anything like mine, they ran some where other than the rail( somewhere in the hull). The easiest way to rewire would be under the rub rail.
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on November 9, 2008 - 8:41 PM
Hey folks, new to this issue...
I need to rewire a 17' Whaler.. How do the wires run through the hull?
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on November 7, 2008 - 6:47 PM
Digitalvet, it is 14 gauge as far as number of strands i'm not sure it's "very" fine strands. this wire is very flexible almost rubber feeling which makes it easier to pull through. I didn't really preload it, I had pulled it through to make sure i would be able to get it through later I attached steel wire and pulled that back through ( hand soap made it easy pull and won't be an issue when I paint).
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on November 7, 2008 - 6:37 PM
november is is just as nice.:o
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on November 7, 2008 - 5:58 PM
i'm glad to see the wall art is continually updated
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on November 7, 2008 - 2:41 PM
thanks for the phone call. it help me alot sunday i will start glassing .
billy6
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on November 7, 2008 - 2:41 AM
And it looks like you pre-loaded the wire correct? what size wire and how many strands? thanks for the info, it look good. john
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on November 6, 2008 - 5:54 PM
yes this is a water pipe type tube that I used. The foam that I am using is Great Stuff it may not be some peoples first choice but it has always worked perfect for me ( the only problem I have experienced is holes from bubbles that have to be refilled after it cures). It's easy to use, trim, sand, cover and is very durable. I don't have pics of the inside yet but the tube comes out the side beside the console location.
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on November 6, 2008 - 3:11 AM
Yes, What foam did you use, also is this water-line pipe? any pics of how you bring this out to meet the nav-lights and battery hook-up. thanks, john
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on October 31, 2008 - 12:25 PM
i just started my 1963 whaler. what foam are you using for the rale.what are you doing to the no skid in the inside.
thanks billy
2beach
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on October 24, 2008 - 8:10 AM
Thanks, shoot me some pictures of your boat l would love to keep up with your boat too.
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on October 24, 2008 - 5:20 AM
Wow thats great. I just picked up a 77, and I'll be doing the same. First is soda blasting...found a MA fellow with a mobile unit, who is supposed to be good. And now to locate the wood backing plate diagrams. Look forward to hearing about your progress. Good Luck, Capt Lori in CT CaptainLoriR@aol.com
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on October 16, 2008 - 7:33 PM
What did you use to strip the bottom paint?
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on October 13, 2008 - 3:07 AM
Hi Pam,
Thanks for the nice comments. If you need any specific advice please let me know. I'd be glad to help out if I can. Just send a PM or e-mail.
Erik
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on October 2, 2008 - 9:11 AM
We have the exact same boat -- my parents had it before us when it was new! Our 1974 thirteen foot "Picnic" needs her starboard harness re-wired from stem to stern, plus re-wire the bulb socket on the bow light, and it would be nice to re-chrome that, too. I guess the rub rail ought to be new, too, after looking at yours! Beautiful job you've done! I brushed on "seafoam" Awlgrip, and it turned out well. Can you offer sources or how-to advice? Happy boating, Pam Welton
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on September 21, 2008 - 12:16 PM
I used Owatrol D1 and D2 oil and varnish. Three or four coats of each.
http://www.owatrol.com/
Thanks for the kind words.
Erik
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on September 21, 2008 - 9:40 AM
what did you use to refinish this wood? looks great!
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on September 20, 2008 - 6:51 PM
Hi, what is the finish on the wood? It's georgeous. ghost rider
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on September 18, 2008 - 6:58 PM
Scott, is that a fish tape on the port side? Is that wishful thinking? :D
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on August 26, 2008 - 7:07 PM
great lookin boatB)
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on August 26, 2008 - 6:59 PM
very nice it looks great:D
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on August 20, 2008 - 5:20 PM
I wonder where are all these bordering molded tunnels are draining to??
Just curious.
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on July 31, 2008 - 7:10 PM
Nice work!!!! My dream boat!!!:o
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on July 30, 2008 - 10:53 AM
Are you a postal worker?
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on July 30, 2008 - 10:46 AM
There's obviously too much money in California, but I must admit that it's some fine work.
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on June 20, 2008 - 5:31 PM
No rubrail end caps were used. Where did you get the red insert?
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on June 13, 2008 - 5:20 PM
Hey, im doing a 19' outrage with my dad, any tips you learned doing this that might help us out?
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on June 8, 2008 - 2:45 PM
Once I removed the two hold down straps, all it took was a little tug and out it came. I think the fact my boat sat under cover for over 2 years helped. Good luck and take pics of your project, might help us other folks out.
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on June 5, 2008 - 5:27 AM
Hello,
I'm in the process of restoring a 21' revenge for use as a Harbormaster boat. How did you remove the tank? My tank is foamed in and I can't seem to even budge it a little.
Thanks Fairhaven, Harbormaster
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on June 2, 2008 - 4:56 PM
I have a low hour 1999 150 Evinrude carb motor, but I would love to put a 200+ DFI 2 stroke on it. It's hard to justify replacing a perfectly good running outboard though.
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on May 17, 2008 - 8:57 AM
The clear coat on the epoxy would best be a very resistant UV clearcoat. After I put 3 coats of epoxy on my wooden boat with okume ply and exotic woods the finsih coats of 3 layers of quality varnish was beautiful for one year and then started fogging and hazing under the coats throught the epoxy. After more time the topcoat began its typical scabbing. I had to sand it all off with mixed results. Now I would simply oil and be happy periodically oiling with a rag. And I would use pure oil not one with varnish that adds gloss. I learned my lesson. For harher environments I like Cetol for more troublefree maitenance
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on May 9, 2008 - 8:49 AM
You do outstanding work! That's something to be proud of. Cheers!
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on May 7, 2008 - 11:08 AM
Joe, beautiful work and results . . . very similiar to your great results on your outrage teak gunnels that you shared with this forum . . . I have swivel seats in my 20' outrage and wish I had the RPS as they look great when refinished . . thanks for sharing the picture.
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on May 2, 2008 - 12:44 PM
So what are you goint to put on it? A 225? 250?
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on April 19, 2008 - 8:04 AM
Whats the brand of the cear epoxy for the teaks? Excellet job!!
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on March 30, 2008 - 4:38 AM
I have a 13 im rehabing now and I really like you seat set up. Did you make the entire seat / back rest ?
CAT
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on March 20, 2008 - 10:04 AM
Wow! Thanks for the pics. You're living a dream - while I'm in a cubicle waiting for 5:00 so I can go home and tweak on my old Montauk. I get to Charleston on occasion. I'd love to see some real restoration work.
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on March 20, 2008 - 5:38 AM
You make it look easy Kurt. I know it isnt.
Best regards, thanks for the photo's.
mk
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on March 18, 2008 - 6:11 PM
Absolutely beautiful! Great job. did you varish the teak on the gunwale?
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on March 17, 2008 - 8:29 PM
Beautiful work ... can i drop mine off ?? Looking fwd to more pics.
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on March 17, 2008 - 6:43 PM
Great job! I am just getting ready to continue the restoration of my 18' Outrage. I have finished the teak and done any patchwork required. I have been puting off the painting for fear of screwing it up. I think I may have new inspiration now. Once you launch this baby you should have the nicest boat on the water.
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on March 16, 2008 - 6:27 AM
Thanks!
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on February 28, 2008 - 4:56 PM
I just purchased a 1984 25' outrage with a cuddy cabin. with the idea of removing the cuddy cabin. Can anyone please tell me where I can purchase the forward hatches for this project
Thank you:
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on February 19, 2008 - 10:04 PM
I am a fan of the cuddy ..... but i must compliment on a job well done.
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on January 28, 2008 - 7:09 AM
Where did you get the back set. I want something like. Email is vondohlenrotts@yahoo.com
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on January 22, 2008 - 6:44 PM
Looks great! do you know of anywhere to get plans to make the pilot seat on this boat?
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on January 21, 2008 - 5:49 AM
That is a very sharpe boat. I bet you can do a lot with the set up you have. Where did you found the back set, and the center console. I have 1973 13' wanting to do some changes. I would love any help you could give.
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on January 14, 2008 - 3:52 PM
Crime against corporate group think, but that's about it I'd say.
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on January 14, 2008 - 3:51 PM
It's a re-configured 15' BW "Mischief', done by Anderson Custom Boats in Goleta.
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on January 14, 2008 - 3:49 PM
Some might say that....
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on January 9, 2008 - 9:18 PM
A superlight 15 Foot hull combined with a potent Yamaha 70....
Looks like a Flying Shoebox!!!
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on December 28, 2007 - 9:31 PM
Super Nice Bixby Ranch boat... a very utilitiarian surf vessel. I admire the surfboard rack and the flawless attention to detail ughout. BTW- Is that a 15 foot hull??
Looks like my 1980 Sport 15.... Hope to see you at Cojo Point next BIG swell ?
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on December 27, 2007 - 3:34 PM
I agree, the Mischief is such an unusual boat, too bad another hull couldn't have been used for the modification. However this is old history, the boat is probably sold and gone by now.
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on November 27, 2007 - 9:02 AM
wow! really nice job:D
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on November 27, 2007 - 8:54 AM
this whole project is a crime
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on November 5, 2007 - 1:26 PM
Hello, I see that you are going to fit locker covers. i am looking for a set of four. Could I ask you where you bought yours?
Thanks for your help and good luck on the rest of the job.
Janflens
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on November 2, 2007 - 8:43 PM
It's been put on the back burner while some "honey-do's" get taken care of unfortunately, but I'm close to jumping back into it full steam ahead. I'd like to have it ready for next summer if possible.
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on November 1, 2007 - 3:49 AM
Got any recent photos of conversion? Thanks. Gerry--Pontiac Mi
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on October 7, 2007 - 1:18 PM
glean, the drawings are available in our downloads section on page 2.
http://www.whalercentral.com/download...?cat_id=13
The RPS was made from Teak wood.
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on October 7, 2007 - 11:57 AM
Just bought a 1985 Montauk- absent the RPS- HAve access to quality Phillipine Mahogany- Does anyone have the deminsions of the rps- HAve 30 yrs. experience in carpentry- want to build the seat back to oringinal, along with restoring the reat of the boat to bristol. Thanks in advance glenn
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on October 5, 2007 - 4:20 PM
hello joe, i'm doing the same to a 74 outrage. how does that 130 4 stroke push the 19? i will be using the boat for fishing.
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on September 26, 2007 - 4:53 AM
As an outside observer, my guess is he used the same material used to line truck beds on the interior. I have talked to a lot of boat painters who recommend it for its plyability, durability, and sound deadening qualities.
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on September 1, 2007 - 5:25 PM
Truly amazing!
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on August 30, 2007 - 1:24 AM
derwd24, sorry it took so long to reply. buddy of mine got me a block of foam from a boat yard at his fathers job. don't know what it is called. you shaoe it by sanding it with sand paper. its not hard to work it at all.
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on August 27, 2007 - 10:30 AM
What type of Gel cote did you use. I like the color and the texture.
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on August 24, 2007 - 2:59 PM
Looks great!!
How long did it take and what material was used for inside and outside looks good.
It looks like a stucco type of material.
Im sanding a 17 " down and not sure what to use.
Thanks good job,help me with what you did.
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on July 16, 2007 - 7:33 AM
Looks beautiful. How long will the oil last before turning color and stuff?
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on June 18, 2007 - 10:04 PM
Excellent photo's! Can you explain what kind of foam you used, how you adhered it, and how you shaped it so well? Nice work!
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on May 27, 2007 - 4:44 PM
wow im impressed very clean!
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on May 21, 2007 - 4:59 PM
Chris,
No, all re-configuration work was done at the Anderson yard, about 200 yards to the east!
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on April 17, 2007 - 1:11 PM
Nice job. I want to build something similar for my 20 ft. Outrage. Are these pics in the Radon boatyard in Goleta? I live in Goleta.
Any advice would be very appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris Kolendrianos
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on February 5, 2007 - 3:59 PM
Great job on the installation and the narrative Royce.
I'm looking forward to installing brakes on my Outrage 18' trailer.
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on January 27, 2007 - 8:51 AM
The man's name is Jim Knight email jamesknight@ncmail.net phone number 1-919-733-7887 X 265 that's his work number.If you have any problem reaching him let me know. Good luck with your restore.
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on January 20, 2007 - 4:27 PM
Hello Joe. I just purchased a 1972 19' Outrage and will be in the process of doing a complete restoration over the next 6 months. You give me inspiration. Can you tell me where you found the red rub rail?
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on January 17, 2007 - 9:24 AM
Does anyone know where I can order rub rail end caps for this type outrage?
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on December 15, 2006 - 10:32 PM
Sharp looking rig!:)
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on November 6, 2006 - 9:02 AM
Beautiful !
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on July 23, 2006 - 11:39 AM
This is an incredible transformation! Looks brand new! Question: What did you use on the interior to get the non-skid effect? I am currently working on my boat and would like to do the same...
Thanks!
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on June 6, 2006 - 1:52 PM
Ohh heaven. Keep us posted on the development :)
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on May 19, 2006 - 10:22 AM
The boat looks amazing. I have a 18 outrage that is desprate need of attenion. I just don't know where to begin.
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on May 12, 2006 - 5:28 PM
Fantastic job!!!! I hope mine turns out that nice:)
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on April 3, 2006 - 9:27 PM
good call with the boards ;)
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on February 12, 2006 - 8:41 AM
Doug, In the Article section is an article called "Refinishing Teak Gunwales the Easy Way". Check it out here: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...p?cat_id=5
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on February 11, 2006 - 12:42 PM
I just bought a 20ft. 1988 Outrage, and I was hoping to learn how you were able to make your wood look so good.
Thanks
Doug
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on February 4, 2006 - 11:35 AM
Hello Joe, well I sanded and sanded and sanded some more and now it's looking real good. I'm about to start to oil. After oiling 3 or more coats is there any other finish coat I should put on? I also want to know if there is anything to bring the legs back to life? Mine are looking dull and chaulky?
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on February 2, 2006 - 1:36 PM
Ha Joe nice job I'm doing a 22' outrage which I bought 2 months ago dash, pole holders and leaning post with a live bait tank. My rails were cracked so I removed them and copied them with teak. Will post pixs after done.:D
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on January 24, 2006 - 7:00 AM
thanks for the info, I hope mine come out as well as yours.
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on January 23, 2006 - 5:48 PM
brianfisher, I used a Makita 1/4 sheet and 1/3 sheet finishing sander. Take a look at the Makita lineup.
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on January 23, 2006 - 6:50 AM
Joe, thanks for this great info, I am not a handy person so these questions may seem stupid but bear with me. The teak on my 80' 24 outrage is in really rough shape, and undoubetdly sanding will be the only way. My question is did you use an orbital palmer sander or the other type? also I have the super console w/ the drawer is that made of teak? thanks for your help
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on January 9, 2006 - 9:00 AM
WOW ! WELL DONE MY FRIEND, VERY COOL, NICE JOB, LOOKS "SHARP" ! GOOD LUCK !
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on December 1, 2005 - 4:29 PM
Just sanding as described on the first photo in this section.
Sand, Sand, and more Sanding... Wipe it down with a cloth and blow it off with air if you have a compressor. Then Oil.
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on December 1, 2005 - 3:53 PM
What were the steps before the teak oil?
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on November 30, 2005 - 12:25 PM
The rod holders are held in by 2 screws at the bottom inside of the tube. You need a long screwdriver to get them out. Or, there is also 1 small screw on the bottom outside of the tube. You may, or may not, be able to get this screw out depending on the orientation of the tube in the RPS, but if you can, this is the easiest way.
See the OEM Parts Photo for the Rod Tube assembly here: http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=91
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on November 30, 2005 - 11:13 AM
Does the rod holders come out a certain way? I tried pulling on them but they didn't move.
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on November 30, 2005 - 10:59 AM
Joe, this backrest looks great, you just gave me real insperation to get started on mine
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on November 10, 2005 - 6:57 AM
AWESOME JOB!! I got to know where you found that back rest. I cant find one unless it is attached to a cooler.
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on October 10, 2005 - 10:45 PM
I wish i could have gotten my hands on any spare Mischief parts lol Nice way to customize a boat to fit your needs,even if it made me a cry a little lol ;)
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on August 23, 2005 - 9:29 PM
wow, nice looking 13!
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on April 21, 2005 - 11:02 PM
is that an old mercury in the right corner of the photo behind the workbench? Repairs look great:p
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