1988 Boston Whaler Super Sport 13 - Project - Electric Trolling Motor Mount:

My goal was to fabricate a bow mounted electric trolling motor mount for my '88 Super Sport 15 which could be easily be installed and removed from the boat in seconds without the need for tools. I also did not not want to make any holes within the hull to secure the mount. This would ensure an unmodified hull appearance whenever the mount was removed to utilizethe boat for activities other than fishing. As such, the mount was designed not utilize fasteners to secure it to the hull. Instead, the mount utilizes the lip of the bow, the bow norman pin, and a sliding key to secure the mount to the hull. The mount was produced from 3/4" King Starboard and was assembled with stainless machine screws. The mount installs over the lip of the bow, over the bow light, and the rotates downward over the bow norman pin. The mount is designed with internal runners permitting a King Starboard key to slide into the mount beneath the bow norman pin. The key is locked into place with a pair of stainless steel turnbuttons. As part of a modular design approach, a Minn Kota Quick Release Trolling Motor Mount was installed atop my fabricated mount. As the electric trolling motor is fairly heavy, this modular approach permits the electric trolling motor to be mounted after my fabricated mount has been mounted onto the boat. This is this the third such mount which I have produced for the two classic 13' and 15' Boston Whaler boats which I have owned since '86.

Mount Construction Hints

General:
• Consider using King Starboard or marine grade ¾” plywood rather than standard grade. Use of King Starboard eliminates maintenance and will minimize the possibility of hull abrasion of the hull surfaces in contact with the mount. While more expensive than standard grade plywood, marine grade plywood has the advantage of durability, additional layers, no voids, uniform strength, and quality finishing.
• King Starboard may be easily cut with a table saw, band saw, router, and hand tools (saws, files, etc.). Reciprocating saws may cause the material to heat up and bind the saw. If using a handheld electric jigsaw, the latter may be reduced by frequently quenching the blade in a cup of water. I recommend performing as many cuts as possible with a table saw.
• Consider creating a mockup with scrap / lower cost material before committing to final materials.
• Consider creating a template for the sides from a piece of material which may be easily filed or sanded (ex. Masonite, etc.). Using the template which I have provided as a starting point and then make the necessary modifications to fit your boat.
• Dry fit mount before committing to drilling for final fastening of cleats and runners. To facilitate this end, I used a brad nailer and stainless steel brads to temporarily fasten the cleats and runners to the plywood. Should they later need to be removed, then they may simply be pried from the mater or clipped off and hammered flush. When final positioning of these items has been determined, then holes and countersinks may be drilled to permit fasteners to be installed.
• For fastening, I recommend use of wood glue (for mounts constructed of wood) followed by stainless steel machine screws, washers, and nylox nuts. Stainless steel fasteners may be economically purchased in bulk from online sources such as the Bolt Depot.
• Repeated assembly and disassembly of the stainless fasteners may cause galling of the fasteners, requiring that they be cut off to be removed. To prevent galling of the stainless steel fasteners, consider using mild steel fasteners until final assembly. Never use power tools in conjunction with the stainless steel fasteners.
• For mounts constructed from wood, protect the mount with quality sealer / finish. I used several coats of Petit 1015 Captains Varnish.

Final Thoughts:
Electric trolling motors are expensive. To protect against accidental loss, you may want to consider using a safety lanyard. When the trolling motor is installed on the boat, one end of the lanyard could be connected to the Minn Kota quick release mount and the other end of the lanyard could be secured to the bow eye’s eye nut (located inside the hull below the norman pin).

Should anyone be interested in fabricating a copy of this mount, reach out to me and I will share PDF files of measured tracings of my mount.

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Date: 07/24/21 - 3:18 AM
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