on May 13, 2024 - 7:35 AM
I have a 1989 25' walkaround I bought 7 years ago as 3rd owner. The prior owner said it had been previously owned by a VP at Whaler. It had every possible option including a tuna tower which I have never seen on this model. The HIN seems different and is 007D989. I see the month, model, and year. The 007 part is strange and there is no BWC at the beginning. Are there any ideas on this?
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on April 30, 2024 - 8:24 AM
Joe Kriz - I can’t seem to dm you. I have a 78 20’ whaler number 00059 in Maine that’s currently going through a lot of repair. Let me know where I can send you pictures and information.
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on November 29, 2023 - 11:08 AM
what ever happened to the military manual of the harbor patrol boat with the uscg machine gun mounts?
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on August 15, 2023 - 8:18 AM
where can I purchase this exact light
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on August 17, 2022 - 8:38 PM
I have a 2003 Sport 130. I have a 1993 Tohatsu 25hp 2 stroke, not sure if this will get the boat on plane, this is not important to me, but am curious.
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on August 13, 2022 - 12:58 PM
in 2022, the hinged rail fitting is now $47.00
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on November 14, 2021 - 6:33 AM
Karl Atkins Springfield Ohio
Stencil up in bow locker - 9051
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on November 14, 2021 - 6:24 AM
Well I am a new owner of a Boston whaler 13’ sport. LOL and like many of you wondering what year is my boat. Looks like a 1963 model (9051 )
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on July 15, 2021 - 8:18 AM
I have one to upload for the 1972 16 series. How or who would I send it to?
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on July 12, 2021 - 12:06 PM
I have a 1981 15' Sport with 6 characters stenciled inside the transom center below the motor. They are either 5A6102 or 5AG102. I also have the metal tag on the outside with 1113_81L identifying it a built in July of 1981 I assume. Anyone know what the 5A number means?
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on July 9, 2021 - 1:06 PM
wow , prices sure have gone up!
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on July 6, 2021 - 9:46 AM
have a 17 Montauk restored. no metal plate with HIN. have only stenciled 3B5293, how do i find/obtain a HIN ? Thanks
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on June 2, 2021 - 12:39 PM
I just found the hull stencil yesterday, under several layers of paint, in the bow locker. It is 4275, apparently a 1960 13’ Sport.
I bought the boat from the 3rd owner last September, it had no Reg #s and the Hull # was not visible. It took me 8 months to jump through all of the hoops in RI to get a new Hull ID #, which must be displayed on a plate on the transom, and the RI Registration. I had read that it was impossible to obtain a Reg # if the hull ID could not be verified, so I’m grateful that I was able to persevere.
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on June 1, 2021 - 3:36 PM
I just found the stenciled hull ID # in the anchor locker, under at least two layers of paint. The boat is an early 13’, and the # is 4275. Thanks to helpful information on this site I knew where to look for it.
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on April 29, 2021 - 1:30 AM
any idea where i can find one of these?
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on April 13, 2021 - 9:22 PM
I was glad to have viewed the specific consoles for the Montauks and Outrages (will assume) of those years..Thank You for a job well done Joe...
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on March 30, 2021 - 11:04 AM
How would I find the hull number for my 1988 9' BW Tender? We purchased it fully restored and they did not put the HIN back on the boat.
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on March 25, 2021 - 7:17 AM
Hello Tom or anyone we are rebuilding a 13 foot BW and need a angle tube made for us to be installed on the bottom transom hole, we have the tool but already tried to flange the angle and had no luck making a clean flange,
could anyone help please
thank you
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on March 5, 2021 - 7:28 AM
I just repowered my 2003 Montauk with a 2021 90HP Suzuki. The old Yamerc was giving me fits. The main reason I chose the Suzuki was the number of commercial repowers done in the state of Florida. Suzuki over the competitor brands!
Warmer weather is just around the corner and will post initial splash results then.
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on February 9, 2021 - 11:36 AM
I am adding these to my Old 1986 18 foot Outrage and just want to know how far do I place the clam shell over the hole? All the way in or just before the drain hole. Please let me know.
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on February 4, 2021 - 5:05 AM
I recently bought a 16' Sakonnet 1966 number 34678, I just started the restoration, I woukd like to retrieve the colour of origin , This boat was peint 2 ou 3 time so there is a huge work to do before it will be returned in his original shape.
If somebody can help for product to help cleaning and decaping also colour of gelcoat toi buy . thks bu Advance Olivier
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on February 3, 2021 - 11:38 PM
Old technology needs old technology, props included.
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on January 18, 2021 - 11:09 AM
Any thoughts on the 20hp range? Seems to be a big weight penalty jumping to 25 to 30hp range although most 30hp are same weight as 25hps. A tree fell on my Super thwarts & consol so thinking of re-powering with a simple tiller 20hp to keep in simple for the kids.
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on December 28, 2020 - 10:18 AM
Hello, 002716 is a 1979 or 1980 year model?
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on December 15, 2020 - 8:25 AM
I have a 1989 Montauk 17 and plan on installing hydraulic steering this winter. With the factory centre console does anyone one know how many feet of hydraulic hose I will need ? I'm installing a Go Tech Uflex system.
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on November 2, 2020 - 4:13 PM
Beautiful work on your boat! It came out very nice!
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on October 8, 2020 - 2:07 PM
I have a 2019 380 Outrage with 3 Mercury 300's. I was wondering if anyone on this site has one. I would like to compare notes on a few warranty issues after 14 months of ownership. Thanks
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on September 14, 2020 - 4:31 PM
My HIN on reg. Starts with BCWW. It’s gotta be a typo. Also I just joined whaler central and for the life of me can’t figure out how to post questions thanks Michael. surfcaster128
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on September 14, 2020 - 9:47 AM
Thanks for the artical on stenciled hull numbers!
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on September 1, 2020 - 4:22 PM
Here are example of Series: A, B, C, etc.
Again, these are examples and the letters/numbers differer from model to model and year to year.
A = 1000 to 9999 boats
when those are used, then
B = 1000 to 9999 boats
When those are used then
C series and so on.
See this chart from Boston Whaler.
https://www.whalercentral.com/article...icle_id=53
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on September 1, 2020 - 8:47 AM
In the example BWCC6062M78G in Section III, where does the 4th digit (C) from left to right come from and what does it mean? I noticed another HIN from a 1976 Montauk has a D instead of a C in that same place. Thank you.
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on June 26, 2020 - 4:27 AM
1145 is my HIN, I found it in forward locker. it is in pretty good condition, very pleased to have such a great boat. Unfortunately the state doesn't accept it for registration purposes. I have a new reg # and will attach it next to the original number. Love my BW.
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on June 23, 2020 - 10:26 PM
I am a new owner of a completely restored and “upgraded” 1983 25’ Revenge WA. Twin 200 Yamaha
BWC8A3180283
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on June 23, 2020 - 10:10 PM
These 27’ all seem so similar! Can anyone give me a simple comparison between them?
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on May 21, 2020 - 10:26 PM
Fiberglass bow and railing in the 1962 16’ were constructed of flexible stainless or galvanized steel wire loom , with the bow foam filled wire.
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on May 10, 2020 - 8:00 PM
Fully restored 1982 Montauk. Added about 50lbs of glass and hardware to the console along with stainless angle to secure to deck (no wood). Dual battery setup under console. Dual anchors and 10’ of chain in bow. 30lb loaded cooler seat in front of console with gear. 12 gallon plastic tank under RPS seat. 2020 Yamaha 90 hp vmax SHO four stroke motor on transom. Sits perfect. Runs 40 mph w.o.t. At 5800. Motor weighs 353 dry , 360 with oil. Cruise 30 mph at 3400/3500. Insane setup for fishing south shore of Long Island can run 50 miles on 6 gallons of fuel. A bike uses more fuel. So quiet you forget it’s running. Highly recommend.
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on May 9, 2020 - 9:08 AM
I used the 18 ft steering cables. It was a much more natural fit than the 17 ft. It didn’t feel like I was forcing it to bend which I think resulted in a smoother steering wheel turn.
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on April 22, 2020 - 10:41 AM
The wire size is 3/8"
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on February 6, 2020 - 5:51 PM
What size wire rope are others using? I'm replacing the wire rope on my 1972 13' whaler. Existing wire does not look like right size. Many thanks.
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on January 19, 2020 - 7:03 AM
Good Morning, I'm looking for the starboard vent window on a 1984 Revenge 25 WA. Any idea where I might find one?
Thanks, Paul
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on December 22, 2019 - 6:51 PM
I have a 1973 19ft. Outrage what i think is a banana hull. (Not sure) I live in California bought the boat in Phoenix. I'm looking for model/serial numbers but can't find any name plates. Any ideas where they would be located.? Trying to get boat information like weight, capacity etc..
Thanks Marti
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on December 12, 2019 - 8:47 PM
In the spring of 2013 I sent you the stencil number of my 21 outrage. You informed me it was a 1975. Now I need your help again . Is there anyway to track down that message I need to get that number. I have somehow misplaced it and it has been painted over. I hope we can find that message so I won’t have to resort to sandpaper again!
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on October 22, 2019 - 7:36 PM
Hi Joe, I recently picked up what is believed to be the last Outrage 19 Banana ever produced, a 1979 #0001438 superb condition
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on September 22, 2019 - 6:40 AM
Hello,new member here from Michigan. I just bought a 1975 montauk and plan to restore it. I am trying to figure out what is the hull #....the boat had been previously titled in Massachusetts. There is sticker from the Common Wealth of Massachusetts on the transom that says: "assigned hull number"; but that number is different from the number stamped on the transom :3A9291. Any ideas, thank you.
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on September 9, 2019 - 4:54 AM
hi Joe, new to the site, just picked up a 1974 outrage 19'. HIN# BWCA8713M74l although My Registration has the letter I on the end, Im assuming this was a mistake at some point long ago and is actually a July boat?
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on August 18, 2019 - 9:37 AM
I have an older 13 stencil 2A1063, I’ve read a bit, but guessing it was a 13 built Oct. 1963. Am I reading that right???
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on July 4, 2019 - 7:41 AM
1987 Revenge 22 WT,
Rebuilt or refurbished, mid-1990's Yamaha Saltwater Series two-stroke, 76 degree V6, 200, 225 & 250 hp are an excellent pairing for a classic 22 hull.
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on June 26, 2019 - 10:52 AM
Trying to figure out what Model I have Plate reads BWCL6104G788, thought it was a 1988 17' SS any info would be greatly appreciated.
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on April 11, 2019 - 7:01 PM
Repowered my 1978 15' Sport (Lone Ranger) with much revered Yamaha F70. Thanks for all the posts in whaler central to help with my decision. Replaced 1985 2 stroke Evinrude . What a difference. Fast, quiet and smooth. (and spendy) The command module control with digital tack can troll at 600 rpm about 1.5 mph. Good fuel economy. Moves the boat fast to get to all the fishin' holes in short order. On smooth water 40 mph. An excellent choice for whaler 15/17. Lone Ranger
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on February 4, 2019 - 3:10 PM
What approach did you take in regard to making sure you got any water out of the hull? Did you drill any holes in the bottom just in front of the transom? Would love to hear, as I was removing the old brass thru hull drains on the 15’ footer I just picked up, I found one of them to be very damp and two others fairly damp. Don’t want to kick the can down the road, would prefer to deal with it properly the first time. Apologize if there is a separate article on this topic on this site, couldn’t find it. Tom
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on October 26, 2018 - 3:30 AM
Hello, i'm french and i don't uderstand this difference.
Number 3 (control cables) :
c. sump, wide bend, engine: 18 feet
c. sump, bend, loop, engine: 20-21 feet
Can you me explain? Sorry for my bad english
Thank you
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on October 22, 2018 - 2:54 PM
Hi All
1) Has anyone ever discussed about corrosion resistant (CR) brass also known as dezincification resistant (dzr) brass? Just want to make sure I won't use "standard" brass and then finding myself with a corroded tube in a few years.
While my understanding is that Moeller parts are of marine grade I can't seem to find any reference on the McMaster tubing.
Any thoughts would be highly welcomed.
2) is 30 years a suitable time to change all tubing? Just bought a 22 outrage born in 1988 with very little use, brass seems ok but thinking of changing all 8 tubes.
3) Has anyone thought of priming the brass tubes after annealing? Concern is that the oxidation generated by the heating process creates a hostile surface for the sealant to properly stick. I have read that Sika (sika flex) recommend special priming prior to use the polyurethane sealant.
4) Anyone thought of just replacing the o-rings and adding caulk? my brass tubes seem in very good order, not the o-rings though. It could be a easier and quicker fix than replacing the whole tube
Thanks
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on July 23, 2018 - 11:46 PM
I notice that many of the "Fishermen" with Montauk 17's do not have kicker motors ? Why ? don't feel the need for a back up if they have a newer 4 stroke, or don't feel the need to troll with a smaller motor?Just interested in hearing. I fish off the BC coast around Vancouver and vancouver Island, not too far from shore. keltyclippy.
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on July 12, 2018 - 7:09 PM
Hi Folks,
I have a 18' Guardian and I'm considering the set up Joe has mentioned here. Are the Evinrude 70's counter rotating and what shaft length ?
Thanks, Lionel
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on July 6, 2018 - 11:20 AM
I just purchased a 1967 13' Whaler- I have the drain plug in the stern but my issue is the tube that drains the cockpit into the bilge- it is so slow- it looks like someone replaced it or jury rigged it somehow. Is it supposed to have a flapper on the bilge side? The water wont flow into bilge unless the bilge is pumped dry and I stand on the stern to increase the pitch?
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on June 30, 2018 - 7:53 AM
I am replacing the bayonet socket in my Wilcox Crittendon outrage side nav lights. I have the old socket out, have a new socket that fits. Any thoughts on how to adhere the new socket? Am thinking would prefer not to be permanent, in case I need to replace later, but still firm. Any thoughts?
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on June 16, 2018 - 6:58 PM
I have just received a 16' Menemsha Model from my dad and there are several years given in the paperwork I received. 1967 and 1968 but the hull stencil is 3A1821. Can you confirm I actually have a 1970 model Menemsha? Any advice for ordering parts? I would love to fix it up and get it back on the water!
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on January 31, 2018 - 3:58 PM
Thanks for the offer on the catalogs but just the cover photo is all I am posting here. Don't want to infringe on copyrights, etc.
Again, Thanks.
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on November 16, 2017 - 4:38 PM
I found a 1971 catalog in excellent condition as well as some other Whaler brochures from that time. Let me know if you want them and i'll send them to you.
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on November 3, 2017 - 10:41 AM
Wow great job buddy, you did an awesome job on the detail info, enjoy your pride and joy!
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on November 2, 2017 - 11:16 AM
Any chance there's a place I can see whats actually in the catalogs instead of just looking at the covers?
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on October 30, 2017 - 1:37 PM
I have a 1968 16' Hull 39734 that I fish with in Florida. I was with the friend when he bought it new at Murrays Boats and Motors in Traverse City, Michigan. He passed a number of years ago and left me the boat.
My dad bought me a 1961 13' hull when I was 8 from same dealer and I don't know what became of it.
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on October 9, 2017 - 10:53 AM
I just completed restoration of a 1973 Katama 16 re-powered with a 2016 Etec 75. Perfect match. Quick to plane with four passengers. Great slow speed maneuvering. Quick, quiet and very efficient. Just found and purchased a 1964 Sakonnet as my next resto project. If the Merc 100 "Tower of Power" is doubtful, I will re-power the same way. A great find by the way, original owners, garage kept.
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on June 1, 2017 - 5:14 PM
Thanks for posting my info Joe!
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on April 7, 2017 - 11:57 AM
Beautiful looking seat!
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on March 18, 2017 - 1:53 AM
Capacity plate stickers available online.
Got mine done from www.Garzonstudios.com
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on March 11, 2017 - 9:02 PM
How well will a current 40 HP 4 Stroke Mercury move a 1989 15GLS. I am repowering and want to keep the weight reasonable (beach launching)
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on January 13, 2017 - 11:04 AM
I just repowered my 27 with 2016 Etec 225hp G2s......wow!
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on January 8, 2017 - 5:13 AM
Hi Joe
I hear what your saying about the trailers for Classic Whalers. I am in need of a trailer for my 1988 17ft Montauk. See a 2005 Karavan bunk with Boston Whaler sticker on it. Sold from Whaler dealer set up for 17 Montauk for sale. In your opinion would this be a good substitute for your trailer you have posted?
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on December 22, 2016 - 8:28 PM
I have purchased a 1978 hull and am looking for a copy of the capacity plate mine are almost unreadable. any help would be greatly appreciated.
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on October 9, 2016 - 11:13 AM
I have a 1963 13' sport with no identifying stencil, hin, or anything else. what would the format of number look like for my boat?
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on September 9, 2016 - 8:03 PM
hello Joe, I've got a 21' outrage that i've upgraded from a 2 stroke to 150hp 4 stroke merc sea pro, can you suggest a prop pitch, my 19 pitch is only getting 42-44 00max with a ot rating on the engine at 5400 rpm ??,thanks Slodon
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on September 9, 2016 - 7:57 PM
Good info, I've upgraded from a 150hp 2 stroke to a 150hp 4 stroke for my 22 outrage, the 19 pitch prop is only getting 42-4500 rpm, well below the 5400.....any recommendations. the boat is used for offshore fishing and would like the improved efficiency.
slodon in BC.
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on August 15, 2016 - 2:08 PM
Need to include your Stencil number. To contact me, all you need to do is click on my name anywhere on this site which brings up my profile. Also my name at the top of this article does the same thing.
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on August 15, 2016 - 9:04 AM
Your list says "Anyone Interested in adding their 20' information to this list, please let me know." I don't see a link to do this so I'll reply here. I have a 1984 Revenge 20. My HIN, BWC5947AM84H (the "A" is very faint possibly due to silk screened letters), means it was manufactured in March 1984 (as a 1984 model since new model year starts in August). It appears to be very rare and I have not been able to find anyone to replace the cabin hatch cover/doors.
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on July 25, 2016 - 1:24 PM
must weigh a ton!
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on July 11, 2016 - 7:46 AM
I have a Squall that has a stenciled # 05736 on the inside transom. Is there any way to identify if it had a hull ID#? I can't find any other #s on the hull. Is it possible it was made before 1974 and they didn't give hull identifiers to the Squalls?
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on June 5, 2016 - 12:00 PM
I have a 1969 Sakonnet white stencil on well says 38550 . Does that make sense?
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on April 7, 2016 - 6:01 PM
What about wrapping steering on an older hub that only has 2 sections?
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on March 8, 2016 - 4:55 PM
Awesome. I am looking at buying my first boat and have found the most beautiful 1977 Revenge. All of these checklists have been super helpful. Thanks for putting the time into this!
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on March 8, 2016 - 7:50 AM
Joe, I just picked up the 1973 catalog in great condition. If you do't have one, I can donate to your collection. Email me an address and I'll send it to you.
Thx for a very useful site
Jim
Smallfrye
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on February 20, 2016 - 11:21 AM
I have a 1968 menemsha I recently got for $700.00. it does not have and outboard and is definitely not waterlogged which is very surprising for a boat this old which lives in Alaska. can I put a 115 hp Suzuki 4 stroke onto my boat without major problems?
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on November 6, 2015 - 12:21 PM
BenW, the part number is, or was, #174806 for that control or also #174384.
http://www.boats.net/parts/search/OMC...parts.html
Also replaced by #174696 of which are no longer available except for some parts.
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/joh...;sid=37515
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on November 4, 2015 - 7:37 AM
The remote control on my boat looks like the bottom-right unit in your first picture (174806). I have a 1986 Evinrude 70hp with tilt. But I can't find this in any of the parts catalogs. The catalog for my year shows a different unit.
http://epc.brp.com/Index.aspx?lang=E&...87acca57e7
Do you have any idea how to find parts for mine? Or what the part number is?
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on October 30, 2015 - 1:46 PM
I have a 27 that we have compleatly redone .we bought 2 of the new 200 yamahas need help on mounting height. Thanks.
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on October 10, 2015 - 11:20 AM
The best thing I can say about picking an outboard for a Whaler is to do your research carefully. The old two strokes are indeed dirty, and they are at the very end of their useful life if they are still running. They will also be outlawed on lakes in other states besides California in the near future.
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on September 3, 2015 - 4:36 AM
Perfect! I'm refurbishing a 13ft whaler with this steering system. Anyone know the specs on the wire? Is this 1/14" wire?
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on September 1, 2015 - 2:22 AM
Under the name Gilligan, 1974 Montauk 17 the last letter of HIN was D not F and no metal hin tag...it was pressed into the molding if that's how you say it. Info on this page needs update that's all. Thanks.
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on September 1, 2015 - 1:37 AM
excellent observation.
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on July 27, 2015 - 12:41 AM
Ball Type Drains will not work very well if your boat is exposed to Pine Needles. They will clog in the open position unless constantly cleaned out.
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on July 25, 2015 - 6:32 AM
Hey there to all you Whaler guys, I have a 1985 17 ft Montaulk with the origanal 1985 90 HP Merqury. Runs great and the boat is a 9. I have a couple of Q. that someone might be able to answer. The engine tends to stall and lean out at idle when the engine is up a few deg on tilt in shallow water. Is this normal? Also the other Q. is I have 13 x 19 aluminum prop on it now and the boat leaps out of the water and tops out in seconds. Im going to get a new SS prop and was thinking a 20 or 21 pitch. I would like a little more top end. Any advise?
Mark
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on July 22, 2015 - 11:56 AM
were can I purchase the pocket.
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on July 21, 2015 - 5:09 PM
Just picked up 0001313, BWCB8416M77L. I am the 4th owner it lived in Michigan, at a yacht club, until a few years ago when it went to AZ. Never even sniffed saltwater.
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on May 31, 2015 - 7:21 PM
Joe,
I have a 1999 18' Dauntless and I'm unfortunately at the point of having to re-power her. I'm considering the Yammie F150 - do you have any comments about size and weight for the Dauntless or is it the same as the 18' Outrage.
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on May 30, 2015 - 10:58 PM
Holy Cow Guys- I'm more confused than ever! I'm shopping for a 17' Whaler (haven't figured out which one just yet), and I Thought I had to have a 4-stroke for the quiet and economy (and smooth running?), buy now I'm not sure. I guess I have to hope that the previous owner has made all the right choices regarding prop size and whatnot- what a headscratcher!?!
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on May 27, 2015 - 11:31 AM
I have a Newport question I hope you can help me with... what degree of angle are the grab rail bases? I'm guessing they're 60 degrees, but they look close to 45 as well. Thanks for any input
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on May 8, 2015 - 10:53 AM
I just bot a 1997 Offshore with twin Johnson 225s I'm really looking forward to getting her out on the water. I currently own a 170 Montauk, 21' Conquest, and a 270 Outrage, but I think I'm going to like the Offshore the best.
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on April 27, 2015 - 5:18 AM
Joe, yes, that's exactly it. Thanks for posting that link.
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on April 26, 2015 - 4:52 PM
JRP, there are earlier versions in the Members Personal Page section. See this one which should be like the one you are talking about.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=27132
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on April 25, 2015 - 6:23 PM
I have some good photos of a 1992 Outrage 19 II console. It is actually a fair bit different from the console in the photo above. The console above must be from a later 19 Outrage II, when they shifted the steering wheel and throttle control about 4-6 inches to the left. This change allowed the helmsman to stand a bit off-center to the left, leaving room for a passenger on the right.
The 1992 console has the helm centered, and throttle control full right. Additionally, some of the console facets are differnet sizes and angles. As well, the electronics box above the instrument panel has a 360* lip to keep items from falling out, whch seems to be lacking on the later console. If interested in a photo to add to this article, feel free to contact me.
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on February 7, 2015 - 12:41 PM
1974 11' Sport / Tender Whaler decal placement. 6" from the bottom of the rubrail to the bottom of the sled, and 11" from the transom. I just checked our 11 footer. Thought it would help others.
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on January 28, 2015 - 4:44 PM
I have similar problem. 1970 16' with side rails that have SS T's but for some reason the bow rails are chrome that look bad. I was told the bow rail may or may not be one piece. If one piece, I can see how you can cut T's off but how do you get the new ones back on without cutting the rail.
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on January 23, 2015 - 11:08 AM
i am looking at purchasing a Boston Whaler in rough condition.
Stencil #: A40708
No HIN plate. I see it is a 25 foot hull, What else does the number tell me?
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on November 14, 2014 - 12:01 PM
Need to say thanks, as well. Recently bought a 1972 13' sport and want to change over from a tiller control to steering from the console. These pics are a huge help
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on October 23, 2014 - 2:38 PM
If you are replacing your rod holders I would be interested in buying your used set. Are you selling them?
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on September 17, 2014 - 7:36 PM
Wow it seems I have kind of the same problem with mine outrage 18, thank you for laying out the step.
Hendrik
Aruba
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on September 8, 2014 - 12:47 PM
prycelessg, we have all that information and is listed above. Click on the link "Deciphering your HIN Serial Numbers". Boston Whaler cannot tell you what model you have now, they can only tell you what model it was when it left the factory. If your interior has been replaced with aftermarket parts, then you probably have a Custom model now. Read more about models in our FAQ section.
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on September 8, 2014 - 12:24 PM
Called BW and they answered she's a 1967 Sport. GA registration on the way.
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on September 6, 2014 - 2:44 PM
The only serial numbers I can find on my 13' whaler are: 2414G I know it's from the early 60's but would like to know the year and the model. It originally had a Johnson 33 1/3 OBE but now has a 40 Yamaha. It's been in my family forever but the original owners, my parents, are looking down from above and the information is thus unavailable. The i.d. letters are stenciled not imprinted
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on August 29, 2014 - 5:40 PM
Did you use the oem hardware on the sides? Or do you just let it rest on the felt covered starboard. I bought the same seat and hardware but have not installed as of yet. I am still sanding the boat down.
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on August 18, 2014 - 5:37 PM
I have a 1964 whaler hull with a stencil #32656, can anyone tell me what model I have, Thanks Dave Wetten
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on July 27, 2014 - 8:07 AM
1990 27' Whaler Walkaround,
Where are the hull Id locations located, I am considering a purchase. I want to read the id myself.
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on July 21, 2014 - 11:01 AM
I want to restore BW offshore 27' 1991, need catalogs and original brochure. Anybody has?
Thanks
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on May 22, 2014 - 1:24 PM
I just replaced the PYHI deck plates on my 1984 Outrage-18 with new khaki Beckson Deck plates. The original cut outs and aluminum rivit holes alligned perfectly with the Beckson pattern, however the rim of the Beckson deck plate is not designed to accomodate the larger rivit heads. They are designed for smaller diameter stainless steel screws. The holes created by the original aluminum rivits are larger than the diameter of a the threads of the stainless screws. Therefore, you must either fill the old rivit holes with marine-tex and drill new pilot holes for the stainless screws or rotate the plate a few inches and drill new holes for the stainless screws.
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on May 11, 2014 - 2:57 PM
I own a boston whaler 22 outrage, I found only this number A22122, can be traced back to 'HIN and the year of construction?
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on April 16, 2014 - 10:25 AM
Addition to list BWC1701EK485 owned by Clyde in TS manufactured in November of 1984 as a 1985 model - Custom Model
special notes - altered for use as shrimp/crayfish/crab boat by PO.
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on January 1, 2014 - 9:52 PM
My stencil number on my 1977 19 outrage conversion to a low pro is 0001314. You can add it to the list. Thanks for putting this together. I have a few pictures on my personal page.
Thanks Archie Cassidy
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on December 28, 2013 - 4:44 PM
@Jeff,
Thanks for the contribution, this post is inspiring.
With the experience of redoing the deck lid, what would you recommend for screwing in a removed deck lid?
I am planning to remove mine for an inspect and steering hose replacement. Should the existing screw holes be filled with epoxy, re-drilled and screws installed?
Using LIFE CALK 1 OZ TUBE WHITE - BoatLife around the screws.
What would be your recommendations?
Thanks.
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on November 30, 2013 - 12:28 PM
All 21' Banana hulls have 2 leading zeros in the stencil number.
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on November 30, 2013 - 12:27 PM
All 19' Banana hulls have 3 leading zeros in the stencil number.
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on September 5, 2013 - 6:41 PM
There is also this craig's list meta search which sends you emails.
http://www.list-alert.com/craigslist/188517/Boston-Whaler
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on August 28, 2013 - 1:43 PM
In 1987, it appears they made the Splashwell deeper for the 17' models. See this members personal page with a 1987 Montauk 17'.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=18198
The motor is mounted all the way down and has the Standard BIA mounting holes which are the lower Red ones in the drawing above.
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on August 28, 2013 - 1:40 PM
Gibby, just noticed this Comment.
Yes, you would need to drill the Green holes but measure on the inside of the transom first to make sure you have clearance at the bottom of the splashwell. It might be possible on your model to even drill the Yellow holes. But again, measure first on the inside and make sure.
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on August 9, 2013 - 12:06 PM
My 1967 nauset has hull number 37099
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on August 8, 2013 - 8:03 AM
Kevin according to the BW specs for a 150 Montauk the OB weight should be no more than 305 lbs. (138 kg) and the 150 Super Sport shows 260/118
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on July 25, 2013 - 10:57 AM
Sweet Tooth:
Could you provide me with the measurements of your bracket,
length, width, etc. I would like to be sure that it will fit my 190 although I would like the shorter model. Any info is appreciated.
Thks, Fred P.S Could you provide the gauge or thickness of the metal used for the bracket?
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on July 8, 2013 - 3:00 PM
I was unable to source the rivets described in the article, so I used the following:
Stainless rivets: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001...&psc=1
and these, also from Amazon:
Heavy-duty rivet tool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000...&psc=1
#11 drill bits: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004...&psc=1
This worked very well. The rivet tool is nicely designed and built, much better than the one-handed hardware store versions. I did not miss the pneumatic riveter at all, and will be glad to have it in my shop for future rivet work.
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on July 1, 2013 - 5:01 PM
I have a 15' what I thought was a sport or center console, but it has no HIN number that I can find. It does have the stenciled number in the transom 5A5792. What year is it and is it possible to get the HIN?
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on June 23, 2013 - 5:14 PM
Wow...so glad to see this..been struggling with our steering. When you did this, where did you start your work, at the hub with the center of the cable, or on one side with the cable end?
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on June 7, 2013 - 3:10 PM
I have I-Command set up on my 1986 Whaler Outrage 175 HP Etec. Love the motor however I have an 100 gallon fuel tank installed and a T-Top Added to the boat. I do not believe the fuel remaining is accurate and wonder how I can set that up to reflect accurate readings?
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on June 1, 2013 - 3:53 AM
Sweettooth, does Tanner provide a template! I want to get the smaller bracket for my Montauk 190 but Tanner is not sure I will have the proper clearance to raise the engine. Great setup. Fred
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on May 25, 2013 - 7:42 PM
I'm about to power a 1970 Sport with a Yamaha F25LEA using a Kent Transadaptor. Will let you know how it goes when it's done.
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on May 25, 2013 - 7:16 PM
I can't find my hull number on my 1970 Sport. I know it's 2A3508. Can anyone help. Thanks. Jack
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on April 15, 2013 - 11:42 AM
My 1985 15' SS has top holes drilled 12 7/8" apart on center and 2" down from transom cutout and the lower holes are 9 7/8" but they are only down 5" from top holes. There was a CMC bracket on this boat before that I am no longer going to use with new motor. Do I need to drill new lower holes at 6 1/2" below the top holes to make this work?
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on April 14, 2013 - 2:27 PM
Thank you for the inspirational page here, I am currently involved in a complete restoration of my Outrage, I can't believe I just found this either, jvz:)
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on April 12, 2013 - 2:59 PM
Gorgeous
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on March 27, 2013 - 6:16 AM
Nice!
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on March 18, 2013 - 10:55 AM
Purchased the Beckson DP65-26 for my 1974 Outrage, removed the old deck plate and the new plate fit right in the hole. Needed to pre drill for new holes and a tube of silicone. Great look with the diamond look pretty close to the deck color. Found in the discount bin on-line for $3.00 plus shipping. Can't get the replacement gaskets for the price. Highly recommend for the 70's era Outrage.
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on January 30, 2013 - 6:16 PM
In order for me to get 1 7/8" evenly from the top of the transom, i had to measure from the keel. The top cap of my transom is so uneven that my outboard was wracked more than a few degrees. Now that I have repaired my soft transom with Nida Bond, I can redrill the holes and properly mount my motor.
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on January 19, 2013 - 3:06 PM
The side rails that came with my 1985 Outrage 18 measure at 68" centre to centre of the bases. I wonder what they were intended for?
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on December 21, 2012 - 12:59 PM
postodyssey, you are missing the BWC in front and then the "M" between the 5 and the 74. BWCB2325M74J. All HIN's are 12 characters in length. No more, No less.
Everyone: See these other boat owners lists for more info. http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...p?cat_id=7
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on December 20, 2012 - 4:41 PM
OK...mine is BWC3488CM84i. What do you guys read as to date of manufacture?
1984 Sport 15 CC
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on December 4, 2012 - 9:33 AM
Not sure if we are all hitting the same top end. I have a 1989 40hp Evinrude short-shaft with power-trim on my 13' 1970 Sport and I can hit 40mph (GPS measured) with about 325lbs on board (my son and I) in less than ideal circumstances on the Great South Bay (and I have the cracked non-oem seat to prove it :) ).
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on November 16, 2012 - 10:26 AM
This was helpful in determining my boat's year. Stencil # 31600. The bow wood platform and the reversible pilot's seat makes it a Sakonnet. I need a new platform, it finally gave out. Vince
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on November 13, 2012 - 6:44 PM
I think it's interesting how people seem to get about the same top end on their 13 Sports whether they have 25hp, 30hp or 40hp. I have a 1962 Whaler 13 with a 1992 Johnson 40hp two-stroke that weighs about 185 pounds, which is really light for a 40. On a glass surface with a tail wind I can hit 33 mph. That seems to be about the standard, regardless of engine size. That said, I think the torque you get with a 40 is much more desirable. I've been on 13s with 25s and 30s and they just don't compare on the hole shot. Top end, yes, but if you want low-end torque, then go for the 40hp.
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on October 30, 2012 - 7:04 AM
The 15 I just bought doesn't decipher like above.Am I missing something?
5A7455
BWC2550D0583
Thanks for any info.
Dave
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on October 16, 2012 - 6:51 AM
I have a 1974 Outrage 19, does anyone know if these will work on my older model?
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on September 28, 2012 - 4:04 PM
I would be interested in buying a set of either type. I plan to replace my RPS with the 1985 era seats for practicality. I will never sell the boat so I don't care that it will not be perfect original.
This has been really helpful info. Thank you for sharing. I just joined today.
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on September 27, 2012 - 12:09 AM
well done
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on September 26, 2012 - 11:20 AM
I have found only an aluminium plate on the starboard side of the transom on my 13' that reads "2325 74J". Can anyone shed light on this? It seems like an anomaly that I can't explain. Is it valid ID for the registration of the boat?
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on September 23, 2012 - 3:05 AM
Tom, can you give a more detailed expanation of how to taper the nose of the die to deal with an angled transom? Maybe with pictures? I have read this thread carefully and maybe I am not enough of a mechanic to visualize how the tool can be modified to install a tube through an angled transom wall like on my old 13'. Thanks.
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on September 16, 2012 - 3:27 PM
Does anyone know if there is a replacement for the plastic cover "globe" and who sells it? I just broke mine.
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on September 5, 2012 - 4:38 AM
I just purchased HIN 2A4338 (stencil in the transom) from a person in Down East Maine.
According to Boston Whaler Customer Service, it shipped from the Rockland MA plant in 1974 as a sport model. It has center steering, the full splash well, 15" transom, interior blue, non smirked hull. The rails are now missing but has the hole pattern of grab rails and bow rails and seems to have been set up as a Sourpuss. As closely as I can determine, there have only been two owners and the guy I bought it from had it about 17 years.
According to the serial number, it was made in 1970 and hung around the factory until 1974 as a demo or something when it was sold and shipped (can this possibly make sense?)
I had an old Whaler Mechanic in Poland Maine look at it and he couldn't believe the condition of it, his eyes bugged out.
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on August 30, 2012 - 1:27 PM
Guys, please post questions in the discussion forum.
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on July 18, 2012 - 8:38 AM
Updated prices at www.beckson.com
DP83-K $30.50
DP63-TK $19.50
DP61-TK-C $22.00
Great people to deal with!!!!
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on July 12, 2012 - 2:43 PM
I went to hooking up an LCD for the stern light, for luminisity and battery draw. Hope that it works with 1968 Nauset parts
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on July 11, 2012 - 5:17 PM
I am about to mount on a 1964 hull and could use the same help.
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on June 28, 2012 - 4:48 PM
Glad I came across this post. I just installed the Perko hinges on my Ourage 18 as described. What an improvement! Thanks, Tom
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on June 6, 2012 - 2:51 AM
hello, I'm French, I own a boston 13 "sport. number of the stencil is 2C3695. plate with HIN number is no longer on the boat. how can I find the HIN number? I an admirer of BW. thank you for your help. Sorry for my language. Julian
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on June 4, 2012 - 4:54 PM
Nice work! I have the same problem. How did you get your bow eye out of the hull. Mine is about 2 inches in and I can not pound it back through. Did you have to cut it out? thanks
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on June 2, 2012 - 9:39 AM
I repowered my 1978 Montauk with the Etec 90 and it sets the stern down below the wheep holes. Anyone else have this issue and what do I do about it now? The Etec does run well though. Ray Marvar
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on June 1, 2012 - 10:24 PM
I am looking at buying a 1984 17' Montauk and all I have is the stenciled number on the inside of the transom. It is 3C0339. Can you tell me any details about it form that number?
Thnak you
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on May 14, 2012 - 11:40 AM
Exactly what this article tells you you have... A 16 model....
Regardless of what your State title says as these are generally not accurate with older models. All 16' 7" Boston Whaler were called 16 models up until 1976 when Boston Whaler started calling them 17 models... Get yourself a 1966 catalog and you will see no mention of any 17 models... Period...
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on May 14, 2012 - 10:58 AM
my registration says a 1966 17' Boston Whaler--if there were no 17' hulls built in 1966 what do you think i have?
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on April 23, 2012 - 10:38 AM
dfloeter, Paul has a 13' model and is 1968..... We have all the Stencil number information on another page here: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=61
Yours is a 1964 16 model.
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on April 23, 2012 - 8:34 AM
I called BW recently to get the correct date of manufacture of my 16 footer, #32495. I learned that it came off the line on June 29, 1964. Paul's boat may be older than he thinks.
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on April 20, 2012 - 4:03 PM
Nice work... how do you keep the kicker from bouncing and wobbling all over?
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on April 18, 2012 - 11:21 AM
I nearly shorted out the computer drooling on the keyboard! Thanks! I will have to tour next time I am down that way. I had a chance to tour the Grady factory back when I was in the Marines but that was just for entertainment.
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on April 18, 2012 - 11:04 AM
None of that is as important as fishing! Nice article. I know what they know but I don't do what they do.
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on April 11, 2012 - 4:48 PM
sound rage, that is a Ritchie Helmsman HV-77 Bulkhead Mount Compass. They don't appear to list the Helmsman model any longer.
Ritchie Bulkhead Mount Compasses
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on April 11, 2012 - 2:07 PM
Great looking dash! Is that a floating compass above the MPH gauge? If so, where can I find one like that? Thanks, Joe.
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on April 8, 2012 - 7:30 AM
Thanks for the pics just what i,ve been searching for thanks again
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on April 3, 2012 - 8:32 AM
Chuck Bennett of Boston Whaler verified that 3A5485 is indeed a 1972 Cohasset II that was delivered to Safe Harbor Marine in Orange Beach, AL on 3/29/1972.
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on April 2, 2012 - 12:31 PM
I just purchased 3A5485. The owner thought it was a 1970, but the AL registration says 1979. The latter year can't be right because of the hull shape, and 1970 is doubtful because it has a Cohasset II console. Also, there is no HIN on the back of the boat. I'm thoroughly confused, but this should be a 1972 Cohasset II according to the stencil number, right? Wish me luck getting it titled and registered in FL!
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on March 8, 2012 - 4:07 PM
Rob, glad you enjoyed it. Actually, with the 2 motors above, you don't need any electrical or any batteries to start those motors. They are very easy to start using the emergency rope pull. If the ignition switch were to get damaged, you would need to separate the wires though so it wasn't grounded. I am a big fan of the emergency pull rope system which many motors no longer have unfortunately.
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on March 8, 2012 - 5:01 AM
Enjoyed your article on the twins, In my experience up in Canada , most failures are electrical which affect both engines , especially on the newer engines. I also boat on inland water , so engine failure is not as critical. I can certainly understand the guys that go off shore would want the security of a second engine. I'm a pilot and I like two engines. :-)
Rob
Guardian 17
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on March 5, 2012 - 8:12 PM
i have a whaler 27, there is an extra set of #'s inside the bow anchor locker
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on March 4, 2012 - 3:06 PM
i heard somewhere that pre 1972 models had numbers in or under the forward hatch cover?? any one else heard that before?
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on February 10, 2012 - 11:26 PM
Current Pricing:
DP83-K $29.25
Dp63-TK $18.75
DP61-TK-C $22.00
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on February 8, 2012 - 9:52 PM
I recently repowered with a 90 E Tech. Love it. It is quiet and gives me all the power i will ever need.The fuel economy is a mind blower. I would rather burn the oil than change it. I finally added some oil the other day and it seemed like I had been to the moon and back. I turn the key and it starts in less than a second, no fumes no bulb pumping. What can I say, it was more than $3000 less than Yahmaha 4 stroke. A no brainer.
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on February 7, 2012 - 2:40 PM
contact Boston Whaler directly. Chuck Bennett has been helpful in getting me information on my 1968 13'-3" sport that only had a hull stencil
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on February 4, 2012 - 3:36 PM
Joe, my stencil number is 27422. I believe the hull is 1968 I bought boat in 1970. It has no letters. Is that because of the age or is something amiss. The boat has just been returned to me after 33 years.
Thanks in advance
Paul Schmandt
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on January 8, 2012 - 7:50 PM
gusgus, Yes.... Contact Beckson Marine...
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on January 8, 2012 - 7:27 PM
Can the neoprene gasket be replaced on the covers?
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on December 2, 2011 - 12:21 PM
The first is exactly the one on my Outrage 22 (1980)
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on November 26, 2011 - 6:13 PM
No Aluminum will fatigue in no time and the railing will begin to rattle. ONLY USE STAINLESS. They are strong enough to last many decades.
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on November 13, 2011 - 8:43 PM
Labrat, I believe the article above mentions that mid 1971 is when the smirk started. Also see this info on 13' hulls. http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=101
Unfortunately we can't go by titles. It could have been sold in 1971 but was actually a 1972 model just as an example.... We go by stencil number and Boston Whalers records. HIN numbers for later years... Your 2A5777 would make yours a 1971 model... Thanks.
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on November 13, 2011 - 8:16 PM
Joe:
I have a 1971 13 foot (I have the title that says 1971) and it has a smirked bow. See my photos on my personal page so it seems the smirk started with the 1971 year for the 13 footers, not 1972.
Sal
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on November 7, 2011 - 8:14 AM
I have a Whaler Squall with stenciled serial number 04421 on the inside of the transom. How can I find the year of manufacture?
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on October 12, 2011 - 12:41 PM
quick update as of this date: Angel's Marine in TX can provide a new, exact replica of the 1986-1990 style console for $800
I just checked with him today.
(281)250-7383
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on October 8, 2011 - 11:58 AM
ptjuderi, just noticed your older comment. Those 70's are bullet proof. I owned a 1985 Evinrude 70 for 15 years without doing anything to it except a prop shaft seal. I never even needed to change the water pump although I would have if I fished further out in the ocean.
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on October 1, 2011 - 2:03 PM
I just picked up a 13' but do not see the number listed. It starts out as 2C7049. I have concluded that this is atleast a 1978 or greater model, has the tan interior deck color, the front corners are angled on the inside as the later models are. No metal tag anywhere on this boat. Any ideas?
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on September 8, 2011 - 12:20 PM
caphook, many times the owner changes photos in their personal page when they get a different boat. Look in the personal page section for owners with a 1973 Sport model.
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on September 8, 2011 - 7:54 AM
davidapmelissa's photo is not a 1973 Sport, which is what I am trying to locate.
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on August 28, 2011 - 4:31 PM
I have a 1969 13 footer with a 1994 40 HP Evinrude. I have her almost refurbished I need to know any suggestions on what hole to put the engine in. When I got her last year it rode real low in the stern and it was in the top hole. Any help would be great.
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on August 28, 2011 - 8:08 AM
I had the same issue as Capt Larry on the sump drain tube in my 1972 Nauset - significant (15+ degree) angle required of tube exiting transom. I cut a 2x4 to brace the interior setup in the sump -- and used my trust ball-peen hammer to finish it as best I could. Not as bullet-proof as I like but better than the crumbling 39 year old brass tube I removed. Amble use of 4700 and I'll be keeping an eye on it.
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on August 25, 2011 - 2:08 PM
This is awesome information for a whaler lover doing a couple of projects at a time or all at once.
Steve in Georgia
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on August 20, 2011 - 7:05 AM
On our 1965 Currituck the original Merc was lagged at the bottom. They twisted and broke upon removal. I just can't feel comfortable with the lags for the reasons Joe mentioned. So when I repowered I was faced with the same issues mentioned. I just don't feel lucky enough to drill at an upward angle thru the bottom holes of the motor bkt and try to 'hit' the splashwell which is a method I found during my research. Plus the nut would have been at an angle and would have placed a non-even clamp force on the transom. Our motor does have the OMC 'blind holes' but if you use those to bolt thru the splashwell you can't adjust the motor height.
My solution is NOT a jackplate - but a simple stainless steel adapter plate that uses 4) thru bolts that are placed into the splash well - the lower bolts for the plate are as close to the bottom of a splash well as possible an roughly the same width as the upper motor bkt holes.
The current engine is a mid 80's OMC so the plate was made to utlize the 'blind holes' using two flathead bolts. If I replace the engine a new adapter plate can be made - the new plate would pick up the same hole pattern I drilled in the transom - so no new transom holes. The new plate would fit the conventional upper engine / transom holes, but would need two studs at the bottom to pick up the slotted motor bkt holes.
I am happy with the results. A local machine shop should be able to assist with making this plate.
Plus, the adapter plate can be notched so the splash well drain can function. You can see the details on the 1965 Carrituck personal page listed by Campfirestu. I am sure there can be improvements made to the adapter design, but it is functional.
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on August 15, 2011 - 12:33 PM
Thanks for the info. My unit measures 24 5/8 in. overall and has a #1004 bulb which seems to work well. I added a small rubber band around the globe i.e.: ends between the retaining ring and the globe to take up a tad of slack.
cwashby
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on July 26, 2011 - 8:04 PM
Just repowered my 1984 Montauk with the DF90A Suzuki- it is a very good match for the boat. 341 lbs, 2.58:1 lower unit, and a peak rpm of 6300. I completed the 10 hr break in on less than 10 gallons of gas. I was bumping the rev limiter with a 14 x 18 prop and a moderate load, switched to a 14 x 20. This thing gets out of the hole like a 2 stroke, and easily tops 40 mph. Most importantly, at 3500 - 4000 rpm it gets excellent fuel economy. A very good match for the Montauk.
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on July 24, 2011 - 1:52 PM
Hi, I have a 19' outrage with HIN BWC7222EA090, stencil number A54932. It does have the "taller" console with leaning post and stern seat. Gunnwales were fiberglass ones but, changed them out for alum. ones in Aug. of 2010. Have had the boat since Jan. 2007.
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on July 18, 2011 - 8:26 AM
Does anyone have a picture of the pulleys going through the riser? I need to figure out which one goes forward.
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on July 14, 2011 - 6:57 PM
More...FYI The price was for a 20" long shaft...
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on July 14, 2011 - 6:56 PM
I just repowered my 1992 13 GLS with a 30 Tohatsu 4 stroke. Does the job. Tohatsu/Nissan makes the Mercury 30. Wonderful motor. Top end 32 with petite wife and gear cruise at 20-22 at 4200 rpm. Under 5K installed including new Tohatsu Tach. Merc was more expensive and 65 miles further away. Just more food for thought...
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on July 10, 2011 - 11:15 AM
Would it be ok to use aluminum rivets versus stainless steel?
Thanks
John
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on July 8, 2011 - 11:05 PM
Maybe normal people call it "Roach" because of the creepy rich folks! :)
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on June 13, 2011 - 11:34 PM
oldbuck, there are no "unknown" models. If a specific model cannot be determined, then it is a "Custom" model. Many Whalers have been customized to suit a persons needs. Nothing wrong with a Custom boat, car, airplane, etc.... After having discussed this with you, it has been determined that you have a 1973 Katama 16' model as shown in the "Whaler Models and Info" link on the left sidebar.
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on June 13, 2011 - 10:00 PM
The Standard 13' models (tiller steering) without remote steering are rated for 25 HP max.. The above chart shows 25 HP motors for these models and also larger motors for the Sport models that can handle up to 40 HP max.
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on June 11, 2011 - 11:06 AM
I have a 17 ft . unknown model, hull #BWCA59370473. It has a fiberglass stbd console,fwd seats, canvas windscreen with handrails, port & stbd handrails. Can anyone giv me an id on this? I have pics.
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on May 25, 2011 - 5:21 PM
Okie, you are looking at the Stencil Number and this will not give you the year of a later model. You need to find your HIN metal tag as shown above.
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on May 25, 2011 - 2:36 PM
Hello from oklahoma, I have a 13' (sourpuss i think) from i believe 74: 2B4664 is the Hull number. This doesn't seem to fit the Model year format and since the hull stenciled serial numbers for 1973 stop at 2B2700. I have no way to verify. Can anyone shed light on this?? Much appreciated!
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on May 9, 2011 - 2:24 PM
Soundswright, did you get verification on your question about the cut out transom/weight?
Might explaing why some have update the transom to a full during a restoration.
I too would like to hear
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on May 6, 2011 - 7:19 PM
Hey there, just got my whaler! 1972 13' Classic with level (not cut-out) transom. I'm looking to power it, and I'd like some advice: I want a Yamaha 2 stroke and I want the ability to carry myself, my lady, and passengers/gear (we dive and charter). Should I go 25 or 40 hp?? It will be tiller steered. Thanks for your thoughts!
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on May 5, 2011 - 4:11 PM
It looks like I gave you the exact same information. Now you know.
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on May 5, 2011 - 2:22 PM
I decided to E mail Chuck in BW,to see if he could piece together the missing detail on the HIN plate.
He responded immediatly,telling me that the full HIN was
BWC1553AM76G,and the boat was shipped to a BW dealer in the South of France on 2/18/1976.
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on April 26, 2011 - 2:15 PM
Kamie -- GREAT list! Thanks for doing this!!!
Bruce
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on April 20, 2011 - 7:18 PM
So whats the general idea for max engine weight on a Whaler 15? 250ish?
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on April 15, 2011 - 1:27 AM
I suggest you also look at the link I provided in Comment #21 above. That link will show you other 1976 Sport 15 owners with similar HIN numbers. Yours should be something like this.. BWC1553AM76G
The last 6 in the number you gave us should be a letter. Probably a G ?
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on April 14, 2011 - 1:40 PM
Hello from Ireland. I have a 15 Sport and it has a stencil number as well as the HIN metal tag? The stencil no. is 5A0561 and the HIN is 1553 766. I guess the silk screened letters must have worn away. Another interesting thing is that on the Boston Whaler-Mass. sticker, all of the info is printed in French. Could it have originated from a BW dealer in Canada or France??? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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on March 14, 2011 - 8:49 AM
motor
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on February 24, 2011 - 9:27 AM
Since I have a 13 standard with a cutout transom from what I'm hearing weight on the back is important. I've read about the back wash when the boat slows down and the weight bring s the transom even lower. It sounds like a 20 hp Yamaha 15" shaft at 121 lbs. would be better for the cutout transom. Unfortantly the table doesn't mention the 20 Yamaha as I believe the table is for the sport not a standard. If anyone has a thought on this, I would appreciate the input.
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on February 24, 2011 - 9:26 AM
I'm in the process of shopping around now (feb/march 2011) I will post anything good that I learn in my shopping. Looking for a 30-40hp that's not too heavey. a short shaft so no transom adaptor would be ideal.
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on February 17, 2011 - 9:12 AM
Surf Betty, I have the same boat/motor and also want to re-power. Any luck? I was looking for a Yamaha F40 4 stroke. does anyone have experience with this motor?
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on February 8, 2011 - 3:18 PM
Joe, how have you found the 70's to be in regards to reliability and longevity?? I recently picked up a 17 with a single 1996 70. Just wondering?
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on January 31, 2011 - 9:21 AM
Wow!!! what a nice fix... I can't wait till I get my 1967 to look like that!!!
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on January 12, 2011 - 9:29 AM
RE: 1974 13' Sport; I am trying to decide between new 30 HP Merc 4 Stroke and 25 HP Yamaha 4 Stroke. I have been told by many the the 40 hp 4 stroke engines were two heavy. Any comments on satisfaction for either of the two engines. The 30 Merc is only $800 more. Thanks
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on December 2, 2010 - 5:36 PM
Thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for. Your the man!!!! LI Ken
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on November 23, 2010 - 9:00 AM
Hi all, I am new to this site and it looks like I am in the right place.
I just got a 13' BW hull # 1912 stenciled in the bottom of the bow locker. I see that makes it a '58 - '60 model.
Can anyone norrow that down a little?
Thanks, Great site
Jack
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on November 22, 2010 - 7:50 AM
I have the ball scuppers on my 22' and 17' outrages,they work great.One thing though,if left in the water for the season,the ball and the inside of the cup have to be cleaned once in awhile due to growth on the ball which will not seat correctly when growth is present.
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on November 21, 2010 - 7:14 PM
any thoughts/experience with the KentFab transom adaptor? I have an old 1987 40hp evinrude. want to repower - tired of it being fickle and eating spark plugs.
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on November 16, 2010 - 2:49 PM
Jeff:
It is interesting how your boat deteriiorated under the deck. In mine the deck was sound. The tank on the other hand.... I suppose it rotted because of salt water. Fresh water makes the wood rot.
Putting a sump pump in the tank well is a good move. I have made a connection through the aft bukhead into the fish tank so that water will not accumulate there any more. Reducing the amount of water that was originally allowed to circulate between the deck and tank is a task I hope to accomplish. I think this has been the source of all our troubles to begin with.
I congratulate you on a super human task well done.
Edmund Stevens
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on November 12, 2010 - 3:56 PM
I have a 1982 25' Frontier and am unable to find any hull identification. Metal plate on the rear, port side with only numbers.....would like to sell it, but need to verify hull.
-Mike
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on November 2, 2010 - 12:38 PM
tx_wharfrat, they seem to match to me. You just don't seem to have shown us the entire HIN number. It looks like yours should be BWCB3257M75D which would make it a 1975 model. Look at other members 1975 models on the "Members Boat Info" page here: http://www.whalercentral.com/boat_lis...st/bl1.php
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on November 2, 2010 - 6:59 AM
I just bought a 1972 "title listed" 13 whaler ser # listed as 325775D and a stenciled number on front side of splash well is 2B5288, none of these seem to match what is posted here. Any one have an idea?????
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on October 12, 2010 - 4:12 PM
Looks like a smirkless 13...Beautiful restoration and nice fix on the bow eye. I have a '69 and need to do some repair work on the outside of the eye....the flat part where it mates to the hull.
Thanks for the fix documentation.
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on September 20, 2010 - 5:09 AM
Nicely done!!
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on September 18, 2010 - 10:00 AM
Does the water Temp gauge tell the temp of the engine water or the water outside the boat?
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on September 10, 2010 - 8:07 PM
Have always wanted the advantages of the Smirk, but never could justify replacing my '72 unSmirked, but know it would have provided a drier ride in chop.
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on September 2, 2010 - 4:54 PM
Hi, I'm a latecomer to this discussion, but my '89 Montauk 17 is still powered by its original '89 Johnson 90 VRO. This has to be the best combination ever made. With a 13d x 19p I get 40.7 mph at around 5100 rpm. It gulps the fuel, but I just redid the entire engine and lower unit...the $2,000 it cost more than offsets a new purchase even if I get only a few more years. One key is to sandblast and powdercoat the steering ring...good luck with the new stuff...new don't always mean better.
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on July 24, 2010 - 10:38 AM
dbassman52, The rest of the article indicates that you should have a 12 digit HIN number either embossed on the outside of the transom or you should have a metal tag with the HIN number stamped in. Almost all models 1973 and later have a 12 digit HIN number unless it has been removed. The HIN number easily tells us what year it is.
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on July 24, 2010 - 7:02 AM
Hi all,I have 2 thirteen's,the 1st and oldest is #6483 and it is engraved and colored in bow locker gelcoat.The second is in the #2B3D01 and that # is in the transom well and stamped in a different color.Does anyone know the correct year of thsse boats.
Thanks Dave
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on July 24, 2010 - 4:32 AM
Thanks for gathering all of the info for all to see. It also is nice to see the progression of steps in the order in which they occurred.
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on July 19, 2010 - 9:02 PM
That new 70 supposedly is the new generation of lighter and faster 4 strokes. I want one!
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on July 17, 2010 - 10:08 PM
Questions are best asked in the Discussion Areas. This section is for "Comments" about the article.
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on July 17, 2010 - 8:25 PM
I have an 1980 Montauk with a 1994 90HP Johnson with a teleflex circa 1980 steering system. When I let go of the wheel the wheel turns to the right and naturally the boat follows. The wheel has to be held to keep it from turning. Any ideas to correct this?
Thx,
Lou
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on July 15, 2010 - 4:07 PM
Yes, thanks. We could have put all #2 hulls are 13' models or 2A, 2B, etc... The 11' hulls may even have a B but that isn't really that significant. It is the first number in the smaller hulls which determines whether it is an 9', 11', 13, 15', 16', etc..
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on July 15, 2010 - 3:41 PM
Hello all,
FYI, I have a 1988 13' sport. Stencil number 2E 6036, HIN BWCM2138A888 Built 13 January 1988. I note that 2E is not shown for the 13' hulls. This ID has been confirmed by Boston Whaler.
Regards
Achilles
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on July 12, 2010 - 2:13 PM
Well trilander... It happened... The Yamaha 70hp 2 stroke is no longer shown on the Yamaha site... A new 70hp 4 stroke has taken its place. The old dirty motors are just about gone. I would suggest anyone buying a new engine to make sure it is CARB 3 rated.
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on July 10, 2010 - 8:07 PM
I replaced my old rubber scups for the neutral ball plastic screw ons and have been very pleased...
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on July 1, 2010 - 7:20 PM
Thanks Joe. I have the 1973-1976 Montauk winged console shown above. I don't have the wood covers for the instruments or the instruments themselves. Is there any chance I could get a close up picture of the instrument clusters so I can see what was there.
I am also missing the lower front console hatch cover and trim that I can build from the picture but where would I find the hinges and the latch to match the others on my 1974 boat?
Thank you
Gary
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on June 25, 2010 - 5:06 PM
Boston Whaler modified the original hull and added the Smirk which helped give the boat a softer ride and a drier ride.
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on June 22, 2010 - 7:06 AM
Dumb question here but I have a 1974 "Smirkless" Montauk and would like to know what differences are evident between the types. Does one do something the other does not? Is one better than the other?
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on June 20, 2010 - 12:01 AM
1972 was the first year of the Smirk for the 13' models.
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on June 18, 2010 - 9:16 PM
Is the smirk the same for the 13 footers? What years was the 13 smirked? I have what I think is a 1962 (no hull id # visible) mine is smirkless ;)
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on June 16, 2010 - 6:40 PM
Joe, Thanks--I've got the smirked model. Tom replied and added some pictures also.
ED
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on June 13, 2010 - 6:40 PM
This is arousing. Sorry. Just had to say it.
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on June 11, 2010 - 1:45 PM
Very nice Job.
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on June 6, 2010 - 7:49 PM
Any screw could be ripped out or strip out and loose its holding power. A bolt with a large washer and nut will not. If lag bolts were the best bolting method, then nuts and bolts never would have been invented or used. Lag bolts will work but I still prefer thru bolting whenever possible.
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on May 18, 2010 - 10:44 AM
I have a 1984 115 v4 that weighs 312lbs.So thats 2.7130 pounds per horse power.The less the better
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on May 17, 2010 - 8:28 PM
Power to weight is what its all about.Divide the weight by the horsepower and see what you get...whether you mix oil in the gas or change it on a block its all the same. What do you prefer.I like 2 stroke lighter,cheaper to maintain and work on,quicker and usually faster. Get a 4 stroke if you just want to move the boat go 2 stroke if you want to do that and a bit more when needed.ie...E-tech
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on May 14, 2010 - 8:20 PM
prkchp, I think you might be mistaken about the year as we can see from the list, it should be a 1973 model. Thanks for the info.
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on May 14, 2010 - 4:48 PM
Hey Joe, I just aquired 1974 hull 00057. Its a 19 Banana. It was a work boat for a fuel company. I've put it back to Whaler colors. Its powered by a 1986 Evinrude 150. I'm looking at the E tech right now. I plan to employ it for oil spill response.
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on April 19, 2010 - 10:47 AM
Use a pair of channel locks on the top and just wiggle it a bit until it loosens. Use some liquid wrench or WD40.
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on April 2, 2010 - 12:03 PM
Any thoughts to the higher hp models with 200+ lbs. Concerns about too much weight and very little rear freeboard?
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on March 24, 2010 - 5:47 AM
Joe, you might want to take a look at Honda's website - they have a relatively new 60 that's reasonably light.
Tim
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on March 2, 2010 - 3:50 PM
The name on the rubber flap is hard to read but it does say "PERKO".
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on February 7, 2010 - 9:11 AM
A much needed fix, thanks Joe.
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on January 27, 2010 - 10:07 AM
scottmcx, it is overpowered according to the Capacity Plate attached to the side of the boat that reads 100 HP MAX....
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on January 27, 2010 - 4:39 AM
I've had an 1989 Yamaha 130 on my 17 Montauk since day one. Runs fast, about 57mph, with great fuel economy. Midrange is excellent the engine is not too heavy (same weight as a current 115). It will cruise, troll offshore and pull the heck out of a skier or wakeboarder. Its not over powered or out of balance in any way. It trims up and flys but is stable. With my old Mercs 23" Chopper its even faster but no low end. You cant be beat. I see some with older 2 stroke 140s. I'm looking the current 140 Suzuki 4 stroke to repower as the Old Yammie is about done.
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on January 21, 2010 - 2:57 PM
Thanks Joe
I really appreciate your help once again
Richard Marsell
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on January 21, 2010 - 2:38 PM
richardmarsell, sure, just click on the Beckson Marine link shown above in the article. It gives you the phone number, street address, and contact info.
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on January 21, 2010 - 8:17 AM
would anyone have the phone number for beckson marine ?
i tried the mreed@beckson.com but to no avail.
thanks Rich Marsell
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on December 25, 2009 - 3:45 PM
Any suggestions to help get the outer line chock bolts out? I don't want to break anything but they are not budging when trying to unscrew from below the gunnel. thanks.
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on December 18, 2009 - 4:55 AM
Thanx Joe, I will follow up with BW to get more info...I am curious!
Bill
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on December 17, 2009 - 10:21 PM
Bill, We should have had this discussion in the forum section. However, the consoles up to 1982 would NO longer be available after they are gone in 1982 or 1983 as they changed the mold. They use all of the existing consoles before they start putting in the newer style. But we really aren't talking about that as you have a newer console in an older boat, not the other way around.
So let me recap, your original console was destroyed somehow and then was replaced sometime during 1983, 1984, or 1985, or, your boat was never a Montauk to begin with and it was converted to a Montauk during that time period, or, some other similar scenario. Without you giving us your HIN or Serial number, we have no idea what you have. If you really want to know what model your boat was when it shipped from the factory, then you will need to send Boston Whaler your numbers and they could tell you. Just because you have a Montauk/Outrage console and RPS does not mean that is how your boat left the factory.
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on December 17, 2009 - 2:10 PM
Joe, I was looking through your article on consloes over the years and I am confused; my 1978 appears to have a console from the 83-85 era?
It is clearly a OEM console, why would some update a console (significant expense?)
Or was there some overlap?
My HIN is clearly 1978?
I am confused...any ideas?
See my personal page for photo.
Tx, Bill
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on November 11, 2009 - 8:33 PM
Joe, 48" looks like the proper side rail length to me. Doug
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on November 10, 2009 - 8:47 AM
Joe I have a 27' CCC whaler
BWC9A548J586
I am in the process of a complete overhaul (all electrical, fuel, water, hull, motors, etc)
So, if the community out there has any documentation, (I have the owners manual) like parts list, drawings, pictures, information on what the original option/parts were, Please let me know. I will be posting pictures and comments on the items I found that may be of interest.
Thanks
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on October 27, 2009 - 3:32 AM
Joe, My mariner twins are 1986 motors - although when the boat is complete they will probably be replaced with more modern power.
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on October 1, 2009 - 1:53 PM
For many years, Mercury outboards used a T handle transom clamp of the traditional, but BIG design. They also required bolting the lower portion of the bracket. On the 16' whalers, only a lag screw would work though there was an upper optional screw position which was not recommended as a primary location. The main purpose of the lower bolts was for rundundant safety, and also in particular to prevent the motor from twisting off the transom while in a hard turn. What is the point? The point is that the clamping effect from the top bolts on the modern bolt pattern is very strong, and the lower bolts do not have to carry very much load at all. On my 16, I used the lag system as recommended in my original Mercury Marine paperwork. This was especially an issue even in the past, as the Evinrude/Johnson system required that two plates be attached to the transom, and the motor dropped into sockets on these plates. You had to lag the bottom of those brackets. I do not see a problem using the lag screws, providing they are quality stainless steel. If the concern is water infiltration, the same would be true with through-bolts. Waterproof the area with flexible silicone during installation. The holes can be filled with silicone before installing lag screws.
This is how both my 1964 (old bracket) Mercury 85hp Six and current 1978 Mercury 115 Six (new style bracket) were installed. The lag screws have never loosened. I can not see inside the current hole, but when the old motor came off after my 13 years of using it (moored in salt water all summer) it was absolutely dry. Filled the hole with epoxy putty as the modern bolt pattern is different.
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on September 29, 2009 - 11:03 AM
I need to rewire my light. Can anyone help me with locating new Male/female connectors like the connector shown in the 7th picture from the top as shown above?
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on September 28, 2009 - 3:56 PM
johnalexakis and whalerguy73. You guys are looking at the wrong page. Click on the link above for "Deciphering Your HIN Serial Numbers".
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on September 28, 2009 - 3:09 PM
Whalerguy73 I have what is called a REVENGE 19' 1975.The # I get off the transom tag 8924M75J.What does that tell me? Any help ??
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on September 25, 2009 - 11:18 AM
Randy, we need a little more info than that to verify things. HIN and Stencil numbers so we know exactly where your boat stands in this list. http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=21
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on September 24, 2009 - 9:10 PM
Hi
I have a 1983 Outrage my handle is on the wide end in the middle just like the picture above on 85 outrage.
Randy
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on September 21, 2009 - 11:29 PM
Trilander...Sorry. It is illegal to sell a new 2 stroke Yamaha like that in California. Those are what are called dirty motors and may not be around in the near future for the rest of the states. We need to look at the big picture around the world for air and water quality. Other than that, a very nice motor.
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on September 21, 2009 - 6:55 PM
Yamaha 70 is the only way to fly (228) pounds!!!
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on September 9, 2009 - 8:45 AM
touché Joe But it's every 100Hrs
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on September 8, 2009 - 11:31 AM
willeme91. The Yamaha 90 2 stroke is a good choice now for many people except Californians. Only CARB rated engines can be sold new in California and that leaves out the dirty engines. Yamaha appears to be the only one left selling these dirty engines. How much longer will they continue to do this?
Guts, come on... You have to change oil and oil filter every 20 hours in a 4 stroke... There are no oil changes with the E-Tec...
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on September 7, 2009 - 10:32 PM
looks like the e-teck is 21 Lbs. lighter than the Suzuki. as I have said before I like four stroke; no oil to add. and swinging a bigger propeller 14 inch 17 pich cuped on my montauk 17
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on August 28, 2009 - 11:10 AM
kw111315, I don't understand your comment. The top of this article says that Guts purchased these tubes from Sue at Twin Cities Marine.
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on August 28, 2009 - 9:52 AM
PVC is fine, but note the slight diameter difference and narrowed area on BW replacement drain tubes.
Some reaming may be required if PVC is used.
Sue at Twin Cities Marine has BW replacement tubes.
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on August 22, 2009 - 11:22 AM
celt, thanks for your viewpoint. Some people like speed. Take a look at this other article on adding a kicker motor.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=48
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on August 22, 2009 - 7:47 AM
What is the obsession with absolute top speed in boats all about? I lived in Europe for 5 years and they power their boats at optimum HP rather than the manufacturers recommended maximum (or over) HP- giving up a few knots at the high end and saving considerable money in fuel and maintenance costs, never mind the cost of the second engine. With one exception, my boats were all single engine and I never had an engine failure. I remember a US Coast Guard Officer in Newport Beach CA back when the Coasties were the SeaTows telling me that over 80 % of the boats they towed in were twins. If safety is such an issue, buy a kicker engine as well as towing insurance. It costs less, puts less weight on the transom and can be used for slow speed running (as in relaxing while fishing or just kicking back and enjoying being on the water).
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on August 10, 2009 - 9:39 AM
Here is one without brakes.
http://www.overtons.com/modperl/produ...amp;r=view
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on August 8, 2009 - 3:25 PM
I have what I believe is a 1983; it is a Newport 17', and the Hull ID is BWCH62980583; I thought that the last 4 indicated May 1983, but it doesn't match the system noted above. Any thoughts?
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on August 8, 2009 - 10:59 AM
acshocker, submit your HIN and Stencil number along with any other info to me.
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on July 22, 2009 - 6:09 PM
I have a 17Ft hull. There was nothing else. Stencil # 3A7445. The sec. # in the hull is BWCA60300573. I belive the hull was built in May of 1973. With out any console, seats or any other equipment, can I determine the model of the boat?
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on July 10, 2009 - 3:51 PM
I am all out of these panels and have no plans for making anymore.
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on July 7, 2009 - 12:46 PM
chris55386, can you give us your HIN number of the boat so we can see when it was made?
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on July 7, 2009 - 10:13 AM
Hi Joe, My girlfriend and I bought our first Whaler this spring and it is an 84 outrage 18. I found it on craigslist for $5000. and with all new upholstery, bimini top, engine tune and new bottom paint we are now up to $10,000. I love the boat and it handles the big boat waves on lake Minnetonka very well. Our 84 outrage 18 has the handle pull in the rear and I plan on adding the hinges you have installed on yours.
Chris 55386
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on June 26, 2009 - 6:33 AM
Absolutely necessary? That is a good question for the experts.
My only experience is with my 1985 Outrage purchased spring of 2008. None installed. Saw photos of them reading about tube replacement and read they help to suck water out while underway. Thinking that's nice and would install them. Then thought about the clamshells possibly forcing water back into the locker and sump at the dock when the tidal current is ripping. Then decided not to bother with them.
After reading about tube replacement again today the bulb finally illuminated and the clamshells WILL BE INSTALLED.
Obviously the brass tubes have their deficiencies. The most serious is allowing water intrusion when the sealing fails. The
clamshells will prevent high speed/pressure water intrusion which in theory would allow more water in at a faster rate than just sitting at the dock. It is entirely possible to have a tube that leaks while underway but not in a static state.
Just a few thought...Bill
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on June 25, 2009 - 11:34 PM
Eri, I'm sure the Newport 18' is different as this article is about the Outrage Side Rails. Interesting to know what length and even a part number for the Newport Side Rails.
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on June 25, 2009 - 9:02 PM
The Newport 18 must have been placed farther forward. I have an old catalog that shows the Newport Side Rails in the same position that mine are and i believe are factory. The front mounting point is on the fiberglass in front of the wood gunnel. I will have to measure rails and post their length.
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on June 16, 2009 - 5:18 PM
Harley, I am using 18' cables for both my main engine and my kicker. No problems but I also think 19' cables would work for the kicker but haven't tried it yet.
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on June 16, 2009 - 2:20 PM
Joe did you encounter any problems with using the 18' cables as opposed to using the 19' cables?
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on June 9, 2009 - 2:00 PM
I'd really like to fabricate one of these as well. Is there any vendor that sells the support bar and folding legs? and if not, what are the dimensions; angle of bends and so on?
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on June 7, 2009 - 9:25 AM
I am looking for the article on installation of custom installation of the half-inch drain tubes for the anchor locker on my old Sport 13. I know I saw it here somewhere. But about Sue: I'm glad someone else feels the sme way about her service. I love calling her. She is one of the most knowledgeable service reps BW has, and coming from Pennsylvania Dutch country, I love hearing her Mid-West accent. Talk to me Sue! Maybe as a group we should let her know somehow how much we appreciate her! Any ideas?
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on May 27, 2009 - 3:38 PM
I have a 1994 19' Outrage with Sea Star. When changing just the gland seals, which is pretty easy, I didn't use the hose they give you or worry about the air - I just refilled the resevoir at the helm using a paper Dixie cup and it has been good for years. I top it off with an once or two each spring.
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on May 24, 2009 - 7:01 AM
I'm in the midst of making and installing a fire extinguisher pocket for the center console on my boat and I'm stuck.
I've cut the whole in the console (sweating bullets the entire time). It came out fine. I've made the teak frame, which came rather nicely for such a novice woodworker. Where I'm stuck is the task of routing the inset as you described at the bottom in the thread,
"Then I used a router to recess the back of the frame so the pockets flange was flush. I actually made a pattern so the router would follow around it."
I've got a bench top router table, and a plunge router. I've got the tools and the will but can't comprehend what to do next without shredding to pieces, my well-made, rather expensive piece of teak.
Your advice would be welcome.
Thanks in advance,
Matt Roche
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on May 23, 2009 - 6:01 PM
wmmalo, the 15' didn't start until 1976 so you need to look at the Model Year Format as you have an HIN metal tag somewhere on your transom or possibly in your bow locker too. Unless it has been taken off by someone else. See this link for Whaler Model Specifications...http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...allery.php
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on May 22, 2009 - 6:02 PM
Hello All,
A good group to be a part of, I'm sure. Need help with my stencil 5A0252. I don't see any info for the 15' in the list. I know it's probably the oldest one still afloat. Would like to know the year. Help!
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on May 14, 2009 - 11:26 AM
is a clam shell absolutely necessary. john.
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on May 3, 2009 - 12:47 PM
I just noticed a difference in height from Larry's drawing posted in the article above and the downloads section. Larry states his rails are 6 1/2 inches tall. Mine are 7 1/4 inches tall. Larry shows the all welded rail design so there might have been a change for this new railing. Mine are the older style railing with the fittings.
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on May 1, 2009 - 6:44 PM
Hi I have HIN 13575 can you tell me anything about it . This boat was found buried under briers on my property I would like to revive it
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on April 24, 2009 - 5:50 AM
The .pdf from Sea Star
http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/2...6221-E.pdf
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on March 25, 2009 - 6:09 PM
Your "rack" for the cutout bottle bottom to work as a funnel is a good idea to free up the hands. It is a real mess, however, when the bottle breaks free of the tubing,during filling and I have been there! I assume you permanently cemented the bottle snout threads to bottle, and tubing to the snout to prevent this messy disaster.
Assuming this, then I also assume that you have to "spin" the plastic thread end on the tubing at the helm end while screwing the fitting into the helm. This requires a rather loose (meaning leaky) fitting of tube to the helm fitting.
I have tried hard to make this chore less messy...
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on March 10, 2009 - 6:51 AM
What do you do if you have brakes? I would guess you would use a rubber brake line at the flex point?
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on March 8, 2009 - 2:02 PM
hi i have a 1980 17 striper with the 90 hp yamie 2-stroke.
i think thats one of the best options for the 17's, my top speed is 44.8 mph and i cruise at 35-38mph
this site is really helpfull!
Willem
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on March 1, 2009 - 1:12 PM
just found hull id number ! 19604 ! Under several layers of paint!
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on February 19, 2009 - 6:22 AM
It looks a ton better now that you can see the grain Barry. Teak has a fairly broad variation in color, which I like. It's a lot cleaner look with a lot more interesting variations.
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on February 19, 2009 - 6:16 AM
Great job Troy!! Man that looks super. How does your teak look in person compared to the color of the previous yellow varnish? I have the same varnish on mine.Thanks for the report. BG
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on February 17, 2009 - 8:57 PM
The drawing for the 25' is in the download section. That drawing also includes the 18'. The length of side rails for the 25', according to Larry Goltz drawing above, is 71 inches for distance "A" which is completely different from the smaller Outrages so you can't get the two confused.
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on February 17, 2009 - 8:47 PM
I am so glad to have web sites like this. Imagine just ten to fifteen years ago. You would be talking to local people or your dealer to get info or old catalogs. This site has been a great help.
You did not mention the 25 outrage. Well that is what I have. I purchased it this past October. The front railing is that of a 18 outrage and side rails are similar to yours. I haven't contacted CMI yet. Do you have the specs on the side rails for the outrage 25.
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on February 17, 2009 - 5:25 PM
Regarding the location of the metal tag, I mistakenly said the info came from this site which it did not. Sorry!
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on February 16, 2009 - 8:13 PM
Lenny, 1984 was the transitional year if you look closely at the dates above. Model Year Format from 1974-1984... New Year Format from 1984-Present. There are always transitions and transitional years and always variations. What you read was only an Example of what a number looks like. I also do NOT see where it says the metal tag should be on one side or the other. Please point this out to me... We would also like to see a photo of your metal tag for verification. Thanks...
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on February 16, 2009 - 5:11 PM
Regarding HIN's, my 1984 Super Sport 15 does not reflect the format as described on this site's Boat Info page for HINs. According to the Model Year Format for 1974 to 1984 HIN's mine should read "BWCC3749M84K". Instead, it reads "BWC3749CM84K. The"C" appears after the serial #, not before. Is this for real, or does my tag have a "typo"?
Also, the metal tag with this info is on the Port side of the transom, and not the Starboard side as also described on this site's info as well.
Comments anyone? Thanks in advance,
Lenny
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on February 14, 2009 - 7:22 PM
Interesting Joe. I hadn't thought about the fact that there are different rail configurations. One thought I have had is that I would like some space where the teak gunwale starts to sit on the side of the boat and dangle my feet over the side while fishing. The last photo in your article is my boat, and as you can see we don't have that kind of room. I do like the way the style of the rails work with the boat as opposed to your straight-up aftermarket rails.
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on February 10, 2009 - 6:58 PM
Thank you Joe. Thanks also for giving us this great venue to share information.
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on February 10, 2009 - 2:38 PM
Beautiful. Excellent work and article.
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on January 29, 2009 - 5:57 PM
Grainger has them.
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/item...tems/4Y089
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on January 5, 2009 - 8:22 PM
nice work varnish looks very rich
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on January 2, 2009 - 8:45 PM
I resorted to use woodden plugs (carrots) from the inside that I just remove when I leave the boat or get water in.
The only pain is that I have to either plug them before I get in, ore get the boat up on plane, then drain the water and plug them.
I have a 13 Dauntless with a 50HP, and together with my wife we are 400 lbs (mostly me) so when we are cruising with 5 knots, we get about an inch of water in the boat.
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on December 23, 2008 - 3:55 PM
Stan, the 40HP Honda is a tiller only. To put 40HP on a 13 specs say it should be remote steering. Tiller steering maxes out at 25HP.
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on September 10, 2008 - 11:07 AM
Glad this is working out for all of you. I like the hinges and it works out well for me too.
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on September 6, 2008 - 7:27 PM
got mine installed, much easier.
Howard
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on August 23, 2008 - 9:04 AM
Why is there no 40hp Honda four-stroke listed for the 13' Whaler?
Thanks,
Stan
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on August 21, 2008 - 5:27 PM
Does anyone know where on line we can purchase the rivits? I sure could use a name.
ED
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on August 8, 2008 - 6:51 AM
thats awsome... looks good..
good luck.
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on August 8, 2008 - 5:22 AM
Hi I'm new to the site but have now had two montauks both 89 hulls. Number one ran a merc 90 hp two stroke with a laser prop, Brilliant 50 mph one up but a bit hairy for my kids. Ive now got another with a yamaha 50 four stroke its a "high thrust motor " so has the 60 HP box. I'm running a 17 inch 13 diameter stainless prop. One up it turns 40 mph ish at 58000 rpm perfect economy and will pull out a good mono skier or wakeboard ( just) . Its perfectly balanced and not too much for my ten yoear old son to drive if he "mistakenly" suddenly opens the taps!
andy
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on July 26, 2008 - 7:28 AM
Just what I needed. Now what is the wire size. Do you have a source for pulleys, wire and springs?
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on July 21, 2008 - 6:35 AM
BCPETEMAX, like you, i have thought about 'plugging' these holes. When you were thinking through this, did you consider using the standard drain hole plug? I haven't done this yet, but have given it a lot of thought and am curious why you chose this route? Thanks.
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on July 17, 2008 - 6:10 AM
Thanks Joe.
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on July 14, 2008 - 11:34 AM
Erik,
Yes. The notched transoms on the 13' models use the 15 inch shaft and the transom without the notch uses the 20 inch long shaft motors.
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on July 14, 2008 - 6:18 AM
Does a 13-ft Whaler with a 20-inch transom use an engine with a 20-inch shaft (long shaft)?
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on July 10, 2008 - 1:00 AM
Nice job, thanks for sharing the information. I do own an outrage 18 and like most have the same problem. I am considering fabricating a mold to cast new floor panel structure using nida core instead of wood, is there anyone available with the new floor structure available for sale. Or if not aware I will probably fabricate the mold and will have the new floor structure available for a reasonable amount (just to cover my expensse. Please if intersted or aware of a manufacturer let me know.
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on June 30, 2008 - 8:27 AM
I bought a drain flare tool from Sue Lodel at TCM and it arrived today !! Man are they a pleasure to deal with. One question though....When annealing the end of the tube, is there any difference between heating the end and quenching it it water and letting it air cool ?????
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on June 25, 2008 - 12:20 PM
RevengeFamily, yes, there are 2 different sets of numbers. One is the HIN and the other is a Stencil number for the hull. Most 22's in 1989 were being made in Florida thus the F2 starting sequence. At this time we believe "F" stands for Florida made.
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=22
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on June 24, 2008 - 10:54 AM
I bought a Sea Fit 1" x 3" brass Drain Tube at West Marine for $6.00 already flared on one end. McM-Carr wants $18.00+ UPS for a 18" length. Now does anyone want to sell me or lend their flare tool. Hate to buy one for the ONE time that I will need it. I'll pay the postage both ways..........Thanks, ifishinri@aol.com
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on June 23, 2008 - 1:14 PM
Hey everyone, My 22' Revenge W/T has a transome plate that reads "978 K 990" Am I to believe this Beautiful Whaler was made November of 1989 as a 1990 model? Inside the cabin in the starboard side storage is another ID# F20388. Why do they not match? Are they suppose to? Any help would be appreciated!
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on May 23, 2008 - 5:41 PM
Hey Gpeacock, I was wondering if you have the original shield or its dimensions for the Newport bow shield. UD Plastics down in Fl say they have it in stock, but I was just wondering what the shape of an original looked like along with any necessary hardware I may need to mount it. My used 1988 Newport was bought with out one.
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on May 13, 2008 - 8:44 PM
I need a forward windshield for my 1976 Newport as well.
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on May 9, 2008 - 7:58 PM
leymc,
Now I see. This table is for weight of engines. As an Outrage 18 must have a 25 inch shaft single engine, the table suggests that you must add extra weight to the engines that are listed as 20 inch shafts because the manufacturer does not list the weight of the 25 inch shaft on their website.
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on May 8, 2008 - 7:26 PM
Thanks for the response Joe
I must be reading the table wrong...often do that at my age.
I was referring to your table for 18' engine choices /quick reference quide
where it says all shaft lengths are 25 " except where noted. All the mercury's are noted for 20" shafts?
best regards Ley
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on May 6, 2008 - 3:13 PM
When should the tubes be replaced?
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on May 6, 2008 - 1:33 AM
I just did the same thing and the crew loves it.
Well over due.
Blake
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on May 4, 2008 - 9:27 PM
Capt Larry,
For sharp angles, the die must have its nose tapered so it is not constrained to the alignment of the tubing.
I just ground my die down with a belt sander, though a bench grinder would have been better and a machinist's lathe better still.
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on May 1, 2008 - 8:28 PM
I remember looking into the forward windshields and was lead down the same path. My problem is that the Newport I purchased was missing the front shield all together so I have no mold. I was also told it would cut the price down to create a mold if there were more buyers of the same windshield. Was just wondering if there is a way to start a list on this sight for people with an interest to go in on the cost of the mold? Thanks, Ledzella
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on April 27, 2008 - 3:21 PM
Quick question. Im installing my tubes and need to make a good angle where the tube exits the stern. There is quite a bit of an angle here and with the flaring tool it just wont make that flare pull up to the hull. Whats the trick? Any ideas? Thanks a bunch.
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on April 22, 2008 - 7:37 AM
I have a stencil number of 3A0368 and was told by a dealership that this is a 1971 Montauk. Well, now that I have done some research (by reading Whaler Central) I would say that it is not. Does anyone know?
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on April 18, 2008 - 2:40 PM
I have a 1981 17' Newport with a soft deck. I read an article that injecting resin through holes in the fiberclass deck and wood subfloor that that would bond the fiberglass deck back to the wood, but I now think I might have a rotted wood subfloor. What do you feel it would take to remove the deck from the foam. Is it as well bonded as Whaler states that the bond between the two skins is what makes the hull stiff or at this age do you feel the two would seperate easily.
If I take on this project I would rewire, and replace the rubrail as the hull on the Newport and Mantauk are two seperate pieces of an inner and outer hull sandwiched together.
What is your gut reaction? Should I just cut out the deck?
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on April 17, 2008 - 3:45 PM
leymc,
I don't know where you got the recommended shaft length for the Outrage 18' is 20 inches.
It is NOT..... The shaft length for a single engine on an Outrage 18' (and most Outrages) is 25 inches.
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on April 17, 2008 - 3:42 PM
kazankota,
Yes, the back of the teak frame needs to be recessed the thickness of the pockets edge. About 3/32" but the pockets may vary slightly... I put the pocket in the frame backwards and marked around the pockets flange. Then I used a router to recess the back of the frame so the pockets flange was flush. I actually made a pattern so the router would follow around it.
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on April 14, 2008 - 6:58 AM
Just bought a 22' outrage with the following #'s---BWC5H587B090. I am a bit confused deciphering the information. Can anyone please help....ps awesome site and very helpful....cheers john
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on April 12, 2008 - 6:24 PM
How do you get the trim to sit flush with the console since the edge of the extinguisher pocket will stick out from the console surface. I assume you have to recess the inner edges of the teak frame but how do you do this?
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on April 12, 2008 - 3:24 PM
Ley mcmillan
First want to say great wesite!
I just acquired a refurbished 85 outrage 18 with no motor. It has all the rigging for a verado. I notice that the recommended shaft length is 20" for a 150 verado. Was wondering why since the transom height is 25". Also considering a Porta marine bracket. Would this work on this boat with a 20" shaft. Thanks
Ley
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on March 27, 2008 - 6:07 PM
I just purchased an outrage 18 w/ twin omc 75hp, I calculate aprox 640lbs (both) I do feel the weight in small vessels (to an extend) is beneficial. I will restore the boat and would like to redo the engines. It is my first whaler, what do you recommend. I do like to go offshore and feel the twins an added benefit,especially in a boat this size.
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on March 23, 2008 - 8:37 PM
I can't believe i just found this ... Incredible work, thanks for sharing.
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on March 20, 2008 - 7:36 PM
Great article Rob. Thanks glad I found it before bidding on a set of cables on Ebay.
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on March 18, 2008 - 2:48 PM
Joe do you have the measurement for the duel switch and kill switch cover plate assembly. Thanks JIM
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on March 17, 2008 - 7:01 PM
How do I get added? I am new to this and don't quite know how it works.
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on March 8, 2008 - 11:42 PM
Tony, you need to look at this article: http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=61 and the Model Year Format. You will see that your number, by filling in the gaps, should be something like: BWCC5404M79K ... The BWCC and the "M" are silk screened on. That is why they get faded. The 5404 and the 79K are stamped in... Not positive about the K without looking at mine. The "M" stands for "Model Year Format".
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on March 8, 2008 - 11:28 AM
I have a question for Joe.
This is about the serial # of my bw "tony boy" the only number left on the aluminium tag is:" ----5404--79k" and it is a" v20 outrage 79" how can I make sure to get the full correct serial # or shoud I contact cbennett at whaler more info?
And can it be replaced I looked for the stencil but was probaly sand of.
Thanks Denis Meagher
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on February 27, 2008 - 10:53 PM
My 1969 13' Whaler was in our family since purchased new in early 1970. Over many years of cleaning the stenciled HIN worn away. I would like to re-stencil the HIN but not sure of the exact positioning of the numerals. Can anyone send or post a photo of a sample of where the stenciling is? Thanks.
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on February 27, 2008 - 2:18 PM
Paul, you would need to check with someone local that could make these up for you. I make the PVC ones up from time to time. http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=38
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on February 27, 2008 - 9:26 AM
I'm restoring an 1987 Montauk. It has the typical set of six (3 and 3) pvc rod holders mounted on the front of the console and covered with upholstered, snap on, backs. I'd like to replace them with either aluminum or stainless rod holders. Where could I get six made up with holes predrilled? Thanks Paul
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on February 24, 2008 - 12:58 PM
GeorgeB, take a look at the photos in the Whaler Model/Year Specifications Index and tell us what boat you have. http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...allery.php I would guess that you have a Cohasset and not a Montauk.
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on February 22, 2008 - 1:48 PM
Joe - My 17' serial number is BWCA56290273. Is this a February 1973 boat? I've read that this could be a Cohasset/Montauk. Can you ID it better? Also, what does smirked or unsmirked mean?
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on February 13, 2008 - 5:17 AM
Nice to know that SOME people let you return things when they don't work for your boat, apparently you didn't deal with a certain member here on the forum.
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on February 11, 2008 - 4:07 PM
Looks great!!! I will do the same to mine thanks ;)
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on February 10, 2008 - 6:39 PM
I purchased my tool from Sue at twin Cities when I ordered the tubes and rings. I think it was $25 or so. She was awesome to deal with
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on January 18, 2008 - 5:34 AM
I think I am going to send them an e-mail cancelling my order and just pray that they do not charge my credit card. I even paid for the expedited shipping and still nothing. I would absolutely not recomend this vender to any one. That is ShipStore.com
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on January 17, 2008 - 1:38 PM
I placed an order for the flaring tool with shipstore on 12/27/07. I heard from them once on 1/07/08 saying the order was being processed. Since then nothing, and they do not respond to emails or phone calls. Purchase with caution from this vendor. I will certainly follow up here if I do receive the tool.
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on January 17, 2008 - 5:48 AM
Has anyone else ever had any problems with the shipstore not getting back to you. I have had an order for a flaring tool in with them for about two weeks and have not heard anything from them. I have sent numerous e-mails with no replies and no body will answer a phone call.
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on January 12, 2008 - 5:36 AM
thanks... I just about to buy one for my 1989 SS 17. I'll just re chrome as you did.
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on January 1, 2008 - 12:26 PM
coby12,
At the bottom of the above article is a link to "Deciphering your HIN numbers".
You must have missed it. http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=61. You have a 1967 13' hull.
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on December 31, 2007 - 4:27 PM
I am trying to find out what year my boston whaler is the hull number is 23385 that is all the numbers on the boat.
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on December 26, 2007 - 2:48 PM
In TEXAS we garage keep our Whalers, no need for bottom paint :D
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on December 25, 2007 - 4:13 PM
Great pictures! I sure would like to tour the place!
Thanks.
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on December 8, 2007 - 5:37 AM
Hi from France,
I just bought an old (circa 1975) 13'. The engraved plate is not readable but the stenciled number is quite visible : 2B9056. Could someone tell me exactly what is it's manufacturing year and also what exact model it is (I am trying, among other things, to determine the maximum engine power). Also, is there any way to reconstruct what was written on the HIN tag and engraved plate (in order to have a new one custom made) ?
Thanks in advance and regards.
Herve
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on December 3, 2007 - 10:10 AM
David Graas,
Yes... All the 16/17 models that I know of that have a center console run the wires through the tunnel to the rear for the stern light.
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on December 3, 2007 - 10:07 AM
rcmickey, see this article:
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=61
You have a 1972 year model that was built in November of 1972.. Things were a little gray during this time frame and could be a 1973 year model.
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on November 29, 2007 - 9:22 PM
Joe,
Where do the wires run from the center console to the stern light? Is it through the center under the floor to aft?
Thanks!
David Graas 1971 Nauset
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on November 29, 2007 - 1:55 PM
Hey Joe I am sure you must be getting tired of this but my 13 has an engraved number on the starboard side it looks like BWCA11821172 but it also has a stencil on the center of the transome below the motor with 2A9991. It has the tan inside instead of the Whaler Blue. The guy I got it from said it was a 1973. So do I have a late 1972 or a 1973?
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on November 28, 2007 - 7:58 PM
I believe the first console photo above on the Cohasset should read 1972 through 1974
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on November 28, 2007 - 4:59 PM
I have a 1975 17' and ran a 1989 yamaha 115 until the steering arm was too rusty to trust. I am looking at installing a 90 tahatsu, 314 lbs with fuel enjection. anyone downpower and still satisfied?
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on November 27, 2007 - 1:00 PM
Thetis, I just replaced the "T"s on my 1970 Sakonnet for the same reason. I purchased replacement "T"s from CMI, but was not satisfied due to the holes not lining up for all three screws - two of the three would like up, but the third was off center and the screw did not go in straight. I found another product by Marpac in New Orleans that uses Allen/Set Screws. They work much better in my opinion. It's Order No. 7-0186 - 7/8" Heavy Duty Cast Type 316 Marine Grade Stanless Steel 90 degree tees. I bought them through Stone and Sons in Houston, Texas - about $85 for the seven of them. You will need to order the "Hot Dogs" (3) from CMI, however. As to installation, I used a Dremel to cut off the old "t"s. It took awhile, but they came off withough damagin the stainless rails. The "T"s on the sides of the bow rail are easily installed and will be self explainatory once you remove the "T"s. The "T" on the front of the bow rais will require you to cut the rail at the "T" location and insert a "Hot Dog", then install the new "T".
The side rails will require you to cut each rail in order to slide the new "T"s into place. Only one cut for each rail.
You will need a set of Allen wrenches in order to tighten the set screws. These "T"s look much cleaner than the ones with the screws. In addition, there is less chance of catching your fishing line since the set screws are flush or slightly recessed. It took me about eight hours to replace the seven "T"s. Good luck. (PS - the side rails are one piece - the bow rail is three pieces - four after you install the new "T"s)
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on November 26, 2007 - 2:55 PM
Question
I have a 1964 Sakonnet. The railing is stainless, but the fittings seem to be chrome plated pot metal. Are the rails 1piece or are they individual pieces connected by the "T" fittings?
Thank you.
Patrick
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on November 21, 2007 - 2:19 PM
joanna, see this other article: http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=61 The letters you have missing were stenciled in rather than stamped in. It is common for the stenciled letters to fade out. Your tag should have read something like this; BWCK1093F786; however, one of your numbers is off. The 7 should be a 6 or the 6 should be a 7..... F= June, which is the month your boat was made. It should be an 1986 or 1987 model if we find out the numbers for sure.
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on November 17, 2007 - 6:18 PM
Where else can I find the HIN? All the number on the plate on the back is 1093F786 :(
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on November 16, 2007 - 9:49 AM
Upon doing some research I have found a guy in Texas that is remaking the Montauk Consoles. He has both the 1986 to 1990 generation console and the newer style 1990 - 1991 like what was used on the outrages. Both are $850 and come with no holes cut in them. Here is his information.
Joe Orlando's Fiberglass
Boat repairs and restoration
Gelcoat work and repair
Boston Whalers
1145 FM 518, Kemah, Tx
281-334-2902
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on November 13, 2007 - 5:49 PM
Now that you mention it, I never know how to deal with my bow locker top when I want to use it. I tied a line to it so I don't lose it but it is a problem. I think I may install hinges. On a 1973 Cohasset, I would install them on the forward edge. Thanks!
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on November 13, 2007 - 9:46 AM
Great, now I can spend even more time on the internet. My wife will be so happy :)
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on November 6, 2007 - 2:37 PM
Excellent Resource!!! Thank you for putting this together....
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on October 29, 2007 - 6:59 AM
dang, just saw this :o yes, its like the second one. I never knew that some of the consoles had built in seats, porta potties ect. In other news, i got my motor off and am starting the hull work.
Duf
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on October 20, 2007 - 3:53 PM
kapnd, see if you can find a photo of your model in the Whaler/Model Index section here: http://www.whalercentral.com/userphot...allery.php. If you can't find it there, show us a photo.
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on October 19, 2007 - 8:10 AM
I have aquired hull #3A1301. I have deduced from the list here that it is a 1970, is there any way to identify the model?
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on October 2, 2007 - 8:19 PM
Nice job Joe
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on September 27, 2007 - 7:28 PM
I sanded the motor, cleaned it with lacquer thinner, primed with self etching primer, and finished with the tempo color match paint.
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on September 26, 2007 - 6:32 AM
Jeff I have a question, when repainting the engine, did you sand, prime and paint engine or did you use a different approach? What chemicals or paints did you use?
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on September 1, 2007 - 12:30 PM
Here are links to videos of all of the steps
Step#1
Step#2
Step#3
Step#4 Enjoy
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on September 1, 2007 - 12:25 PM
Guys,
Glad to hear your are happy with the out come.
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on August 21, 2007 - 6:45 PM
Just finished the job and what a difference! Sure wish I had the pneumatic riveter though. I tried to rent one but couldn't find one, even to buy! The revits were a challenge to find as well. Everyone tried to sell me aluminum rivets. I shopped around online and found a company that sold them. Great story. ;)
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on August 7, 2007 - 12:09 PM
I gave it a go a few weeks back and it came out great, very solid and significantly inproved over the loose screws and old tape of the previous owner! I didn't have a pneumatic, and after two rivets with the manual tool, my hands were complaining. So I cut 2 pieces of 3/4" copper water pipe about a foot long each, slid them on the handles of the manual riveter, and I had the leverage to easily squeeze the tool and finished with ease!
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on August 6, 2007 - 5:45 PM
Excellent story I plan on duplicating this proceedure.....as soon as I can find out where to get a rivet gun like yours. ;)
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on August 5, 2007 - 6:08 AM
Thanks. Made for interesting reading. I would love to put twins on my 17' Montauk but they wont fit. I'm going to start looking for an Outrage. I love the thought of twins, I have two small children and need the comfort of knowing I have a spare engine.
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on July 30, 2007 - 3:58 PM
I just made another run of these Instrument panels.
Visit my Personal Online Store for availability. Joe Kriz' Online Store
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on July 29, 2007 - 6:41 PM
The most important instruments to have on a Whaler in my opinion are:
1. Tachometer (with System Check if possible) (a definite must have)
2. Voltmeter (a definite must have)
3. Trim/Tilt Gauge (see what angle your engine is at a glance without looking back)
4. Hourmeter (now you know how many hours you are putting on your engine)
5. Water Temp Gauge (if you have room on the panel)
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on July 26, 2007 - 6:16 PM
I left the screws
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on July 24, 2007 - 9:00 AM
Duf,
I assume you mean the second console?
1986, 1987, 1988, 1989....
I am not sure what year they stopped using the second generation Super Console.
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on July 23, 2007 - 1:56 PM
Same console as on my 87 Joe.
Duf
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on July 17, 2007 - 10:12 AM
Thanks for the article Jeff, I'm about to do the same to my rail and appreciate the info. Did you rivet the bases too or did you leave the set screws in? (I'm thinking locktite is in order if they stay?) Thanks, Dave
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on July 16, 2007 - 7:01 PM
FWIW Perko still makes a replacement lens that will fit the original light assembly. It is LENS Cat. No. 0296DPOLNS. ($9.50 in Hawaii) The only difference is the replacement has no holes for the two small screws that hold on the light assembly. I suggest not drilling but using a piece of 3/16 brass tubing and heating it and melting the holes in the correct place. The plastic is rather brittle and I cracked all the ones I tried to drill on the green side. You could probably heat a drill bit if you can't get the tubing.
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on July 10, 2007 - 6:42 AM
Fantastic, i'm going to be focusing on the wiring for a while, but would like to slowly start going through the teak because i can't stand not start it!
These articles you guys put together are a tremedous help!
Thanks
duf
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on July 2, 2007 - 5:32 PM
Please refer to this thread for dimensions of the Standard 3rd generation console
Console Dimensions
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on June 27, 2007 - 8:25 PM
BTW, the 1" tool is available for about $34 at ShipStore.com
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on June 24, 2007 - 12:37 PM
VERY NICE pictures.
Thank you
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on June 22, 2007 - 12:46 PM
deansst,
Questions are best placed in the forum section. More people will see your question there. This section is for comments.
Any of the above engines on this list will work but in my opinion, the lighter the better.
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on June 22, 2007 - 6:26 AM
Hi, I am a new member to the site, but a long term whaler owner, I have a 1989 newport model which has a 1990 evinrude 90 hp, I dont know what engine to replace this with,the etecs are nice but I hate having to always buy 2stroke oil, I am leaning toward a 4 stroke 90 yamaha is this engine to heavy for my boat? please anyone let me know your thoughts ,Thanks Dean.
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on June 18, 2007 - 8:42 PM
Hi Joe,
Great article! Is the issue with bottom paint on the drain tubes one of dissimilar metal reaction or something else?
Dave
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on June 11, 2007 - 7:19 PM
Anyone know why the Mercury 90 Optimax weighs a whopping 70 lbs more than the classic 90? I can see it for a 4S, with all the extra 'stuff', but a 20+% penalty for another (albeit updated) 2S is hard to understand. The ETEC weighs what, 320 lbs and even that is significantly less than the Optimax. Somebody.... teach me.
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on June 9, 2007 - 4:13 PM
That is too cool. B)
I want everything. :D
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on May 14, 2007 - 7:47 AM
Great article. I have an 1988 70hp that the horn is acting all kinds of crazy. With the key turn on the alarm will sound constantly (sometimes). Other times it is making a faint alarm while cruising. Water temp and engine temp are just fine. My father had previously removed the oil reservoir, so now I mix the oil. I now have an idea what to look for and I am guessing that my alarm module is on the blink.
Thanks,
Jack
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on May 3, 2007 - 1:55 PM
Hottub,
To my knowledge you can not purchase a new HIN tag. You could always have one made by a metal engraver.
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on April 30, 2007 - 8:24 PM
lavid2006 and Red Devil,
You can buy the brass tubing from McMaster-Carr listed above with their link. You cannot buy a finished tube as one end has to be flared after it is installed in the hull. You can buy a tube with one end already flared from Boston Whaler. But why? You still have to flare the other end so why not just buy the straight brass tubing?
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on April 30, 2007 - 6:23 PM
were can I get these tubes already done??
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on April 30, 2007 - 4:04 AM
Can a replacement hull id plate be purchased to complete a refurb project?
Anyone know where?
Thanks
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on April 25, 2007 - 11:44 AM
pasino57,
You would have to look at the metal HIN tag to determine the year.
All boats after 1974 had the HIN tag. If the tag is missing, then you would need to send the A20173 number to Chuck Bennett at Boston Whaler to determine the year.
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on April 25, 2007 - 11:38 AM
grynberd (Dan),
2C sounds like a 13' model. There are several different 13' Models so you might look through all the photos on this site, especially the members Personal Pages, and see if any of the models look like yours. What year is yours? You might look at the metal HIN tag for this information.
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on April 25, 2007 - 2:51 AM
Joe, new to the site, new to whalers. Great stuff and thanks for all your enthusiasm.
Not many whalers down here in Australia. We've got one, I thought it was a 15' (a friend's got a 13' and ours definitely looks and feels bigger).
HIN stencil is 2C2215. Everything is telling me this is a 13'. Any other advice?
Regards,
Dan
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on April 22, 2007 - 3:55 PM
:D
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on April 3, 2007 - 5:59 PM
sharky, this one can be a little confusing. This is how BW keep track of their numbers. Look at the link above below the chart, Deciphering Your HIN Serial Numbers. There you will see the "Model Format" which is what the M in your number indicates. Yours was the 5,094 numbered hull which is a 1982 year model made in H = March of 1982.
All the 16/17 foot models were 16' 7" in length. In the early days they called the boat a 16' model. Later they called them a 17' model just so the boat sounded larger even though they were all 16' 7" in length...
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on April 3, 2007 - 2:39 PM
I am confused over this numbering system. My HIN is BWCH5094M82H. I guess it was made in 1982 and from the length of it 16' 7" I would say it is a 17 footer. But what else can I glean from this information?
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on March 22, 2007 - 10:34 AM
Tim, the letters were silk screened on the tag and the numbers were stamped in. Your silk screened letters are probably no longer visible. See this link for examples of HIN numbers of members whalers. Boston Whaler Owners Lists
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on March 22, 2007 - 6:14 AM
I have a 1980 Revenge and I have only 5 digits on my hull ID tag , I was told that after a certain date your suppose to have atleast 12, does this make sense
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on March 18, 2007 - 5:13 PM
Thanks to Jim Dunlap for sending these photos in.
Jim, it looks like you had a great tour. Looking forward to your narration.
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on March 11, 2007 - 7:53 PM
I have a carbed 90HP Yamaha on my 17' Montaul 1982. It was direct bolt up replacement to the original 70 Evinude that in came with. Interesting enought the footprint was exactly the same.
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on March 2, 2007 - 1:53 PM
Eddie, from the link above, Deciphering Your HIN, it appears you have a 1965 16' model.
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on February 28, 2007 - 5:50 PM
joe my stencil# is 33647 can you tell me what year and month this boat was made thanks eolson55
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on February 19, 2007 - 5:30 PM
Michael,
I have the weights for the smaller 50 hp through 90 hp engines in a different article for the 16' and 17' hulls.
http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...ticle_id=5
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on February 19, 2007 - 12:22 PM
where can i get these tubes...i also need the 2 diagonal ones for the transom on the 17' outrage thanks:D
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on February 17, 2007 - 9:53 AM
Joe, could you tell me wich year vould be a 22 Revenge marked: A20173?
Thanks
Pasino Italy
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on February 16, 2007 - 8:40 AM
I would like to add my BW Offshore 27 info to your site.
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on February 14, 2007 - 5:14 PM
Does this have to be custom made, or can it be bought already completed and ready to install? I've looked into making one and lets just say I'm not really good with tools....
Thanks
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on February 12, 2007 - 9:44 AM
thx for this info for single eng 18's Joe.
A 9.9 hp 4 stroke Yammie weighs in at 100 lbs.
I am considering repowering my 1987 18 ft Guardian with twins.
If you can find time to post 75-90 HP options....could be very interesting comparisons.
mk
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on January 3, 2007 - 4:11 PM
BRP has a great online parts catalog for Outboard Motors dating back to 1972. You can find all the parts and part numbers you need in order to repair anything on your engine or engine controls and accessories, etc... BRP Parts Catalogs
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on December 31, 2006 - 1:25 PM
RHolomalia, you can get the Flaring Tool from Twin Cities Marine.
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on December 23, 2006 - 12:41 AM
Well documented repair. Thanks Joe !
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on December 15, 2006 - 3:26 PM
joe,
i think you mentioned that in a recent conversation. has she been disappearing for long periods of time?
lew
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on December 13, 2006 - 7:22 PM
Jeff,
The trim tabs were taken off by the prior owner and I did not get them. I didn't want them anyway. There was only a couple of screw holes that seeped a small amount of water.
Lew,
Thanks.... I hated to sell it but I found out my wife would most likely not spend the night in the Cuddy with me.... Go Figure....
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on December 13, 2006 - 1:37 PM
Joe,
I was thinking of creating a CNC file to cut these panels out and also have the machine v-groove/engrave the line work into the metal. That way there is no need to apply the graphic the high light will created with the reflection of light.
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on December 13, 2006 - 1:30 PM
Joe,
Did you not reinstall the trim tabs? Was there water coming out of those holes as well.
Again Nice Job!
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on December 13, 2006 - 7:14 AM
joe, i believe there are vinyl plotters that can produce a stripe around the corners. same plotters that produce lettering, designs, etc.
lew
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on December 13, 2006 - 7:09 AM
joe
you do nice work. i could not part with a project that i put so much work into.
lew
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on November 21, 2006 - 3:39 PM
I had a few of these panels made up when I also made the Switch Panels which are in another article on this site.
I just sold the only two of these panels I had to a member on this site.
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on November 21, 2006 - 3:16 PM
I am probably not going to be making anymore of these panels with the holes already drilled. The price to have them machined is just too much plus the hole plugs cost me .25 cents for the 3/8" plug and .35 cents for the 1/2" plug.
I may in the future make some of these panels in blank form and the buyer can drill their own holes with the exception of the 4 mounting holes in the corners. This way they could also mount a VHF Radio in a blank panel instead of having holes for switches, etc....
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on November 18, 2006 - 2:13 PM
He Joe,
We placed our battery in the console, because you need the space in the back. Our first season we bought a kicker, merc. 6Hp 4 stroke. I can assure you it's absolutly worstless! You really need about 10Hp. When there is wind at sea, you will not move at sea.
And I see at your list that mercury is quite heavy. In my opinion the waterline is super with a heavy enigine. Look @ my pictures:
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...er_id=2897
I think the site is great!
Jur
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on November 14, 2006 - 6:53 AM
great article Joe! Thanks....
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on November 7, 2006 - 8:28 AM
here is my outrage 18 central console 1982
Maripà 2 console
trionfale
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on November 5, 2006 - 11:00 AM
blackdog54, (Linda)
I think any of the engines should be fine in weight if you don't plan on having a kicker. The heavier engines will make the Montauk sit down a little in the stern however.
My personal belief on a Montauk is to definitely have the battery in the console no matter what. The Montauk needs all the floor space it has available and should not be taken up by a battery.
If a person plans on using a kicker, then I would choose a lighter engine. See this other article for Montauk Owners and their engine choices and equipment. Montauk Owners List
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on November 4, 2006 - 6:15 PM
Joe-
I was leaning toward the E-tec if I needed to repower my 1985 Montauk. There is a chance I actually may NEED to re-power. Everyone is talking Yamaha (Saltwater series) 4-stroke. My current 1985 Johnson 90 is supposed to be 305 lbs. I do not know if that include the power tilt weight. Do you think that the 368 of the Yamaha is too much transom weight for my application? Thanks
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on October 19, 2006 - 5:22 PM
Jeff
Can you tell me how you were able to remove the thin skin of the two part foam. I've tried everything.
Thanks,
Key-z
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on October 17, 2006 - 6:07 PM
My first 1987 18 Outrage had the Springfield seats. My second 1987 18 Outrage recently purchased has the Wise seats. So they were using both in 1987. I don't know which of my 1987 18 Outrages would have been the older of the two but the one with the Wise seats has a HIN that ends as J687 which I'm guessing means it was built in 1986 as a 1987 model.
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on October 10, 2006 - 11:03 AM
Wow! Very nice. I wish I had your skills.
Most impressive and great article.
Pat
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on October 3, 2006 - 3:28 PM
Hi Jeff
Just wanted to thank you for posting the process you went through in restoring your floor. I recently purchased an 18' Outrage and just last Sunday we removed the floor and started the the long process of restoration. It wasn't an easy job separating the would from the skin of the floor but we got it done in one day. Nice and clean. Then we removed the gas tank and I'm having Florida Marine build me a new one. The old tank had a hole in it and could have been repaired but I considered the age of the boat and decided to just change it out. We had to use a make shift hoist to pull up the tank and it worked great. It took approximately 30 minutes to remove.
Thanks again for all the pictures.
Key-zB)
Thank
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on September 27, 2006 - 3:58 PM
Key Z
it took from the first week in October to Memorial Day to do this job. Most of the work was done during the weekends however, for the wiring my father spent about 6-8 full days rewiring every thing.
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on September 25, 2006 - 5:47 PM
I just bought a 18' Outrage and it appears that I have the same problem. I'm truly disappointed knowing that I have a big repair in front of me. Did this project take you 11 months to complete? How many hours per day did you invest in this refurbishment? Thanks for the pitures. I really appreciated your determination in rebuilding your dream boat. My outrage is mine dream boat too!
Key-z
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on September 6, 2006 - 1:44 AM
where can i get flaring tool parts or unit for installation of brass tubes
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on September 5, 2006 - 2:43 AM
We just put a 2006 90HP Johnson 4-stroke on our mid-80 Montauk 17. It realy runs great with that engine! Got it without problems to 35 knots (40mph) even with 4 people in the boat.
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on September 3, 2006 - 7:48 PM
Steve,
Sure... You HIN number should start with BWC.
So, BWCM1482H788
H7 stands for the month and year the hull was manufactured.
H= August and 7= 1987
88= the model year.
So, your boat was made in August of 1987 as a 1988 year model.
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on August 27, 2006 - 4:31 PM
Joe
I looked at a 13' whaler which had 2E5387 inside the hull in the stern and 1482H788 on the metal plate on the transom on the starbord side.
Would you be so good as to interpret.
Thanks
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on August 11, 2006 - 10:52 AM
Here are the part numbers for the brass tubing from McMaster-Carr.
1 inch O.D. x .032 wall thickness x 3 feet long = #8950K792
1 1/4 inch O.D. x .032 wall thickness x 3 feet long = #8950K832
Part numbers for O-rings:
O-ring for 1 inch tubes = #9557K482 (size=dash 213) ($4.59 pack of 50)
O-ring for 1 1/4 inch tubes = #9557K486 (size=dash 217) ($4.97 pack of 50)
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on July 31, 2006 - 9:26 AM
st,
The link to the drawing is listed in the above article in red like this:
Teak Fire Extinguisher Frame Drawing
Click on that link or the above link and scroll down the list until you come to the drawing.
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on July 30, 2006 - 9:46 PM
Joe,
I understand that you made some teak trim of this fire extinguisher pockets. I couldn't find your report or drawing on how to built those trim. Could you please publish it here Joe, if you got the time-no rush! I am particularly interested to know the shape of the original trim; cross cut. I would rather buy the trim only if one is available, since I already bought the pocket. (the outter flange dimension= 18.5 x 6.75) But, if none is available, then I probably would have one made, either by me-if it is simple enough, or my friend would do it for me-he is a woodworker hobbyist-. Thanks, Joe!
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on July 12, 2006 - 4:06 PM
Joe,
I just sold my OEM seats off my 1985 Outrage and when packing them up I noticed something....I have the springfield bases however, the cushions look like the wise cushions both in shape, snap placement, and color.
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on June 29, 2006 - 9:35 AM
WOW...WHAT A PROJECT! I JUST GOT NEWS MY 85 OUTRAGE MIGHT HAVE SOME FUEL TANK PROBLEMS AND TANK MIGHT NEED TO BE REPLACED. THANKS FOR THE PIC'S AND THE COLOR ON WORK..... ENJOY YOUR OUTRAGE ...I'VE USED MINE SINCE 93 AND JUST BOT A 2006 OUTRAGE TO REPLACE MY OLD ONE THAT NEEDS WORK...IT'S A GREAT MACHINE!
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on May 30, 2006 - 9:45 AM
Charles,
I buy the brass tubing from McMaster-Carr
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on May 25, 2006 - 2:16 PM
Joe,
Thanks for this article. The whole set up makes sense now. I think I am going to try and tackle making one this winter...
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on May 24, 2006 - 4:21 PM
where can i get brass drain tubes
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on May 16, 2006 - 5:24 PM
cajunman,
The Classic Hull was made until mid 2002 until they changed over to the Accu-Trac hull. You have what everyone calls the Classic Montauk 17.
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on May 16, 2006 - 9:50 AM
Joe,
is my 1987 a classic or a 170?
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on April 13, 2006 - 7:20 PM
Hull numbers 100 through 4499 were from 1958 to 1961.
To narrow it down any further you would need to contact Boston Whaler and ask them for more info.
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on April 13, 2006 - 12:23 PM
I have an older 13' Whaler, stencil in bow well is 719. Anyone know when this boat was made?
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on April 4, 2006 - 3:30 PM
gglave,
Actually, the Stern Light is removable and does store in the under gunwale rod holders. Unplug the light and it pulls out of the upper retaining collar. Here is a photo of the light removed.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=95
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on April 3, 2006 - 5:45 PM
Couldn't you have designed it so that it fitted into the rod holder when needed and was removable, so it stored out of the way?
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on March 23, 2006 - 3:19 PM
Doug,
Lee's was the OEM supplier for the Classic Whalers and Lee's is still in business. I bought a couple rod holders last year. Lee's Tackle
If you need the under gunwale rod holders, then you would need to contact Boston Whaler although they only sell ones that are made out of starboard or whalerboard. If you want to make your own out of mahogany ply, then check out the drawings section. Drawings
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on March 23, 2006 - 12:54 PM
helpful article, I followed the steps and had great results, any advise on trying to find new teak gunwale rod holders.
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on March 19, 2006 - 12:37 PM
Joe King,
According to their website they only make two sizes.
I used the taller one. #49800000
http://www.ssicustomplastics.com/fire...ishers.htm
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on March 19, 2006 - 7:32 AM
What size pocket is the one in these photo's ? I called to order one and was told that they come in a few sizes.
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on March 8, 2006 - 7:43 AM
4 out of 6 with merc power....interesting
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on March 6, 2006 - 3:30 PM
Very Nice Tom...Thanks!
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on March 5, 2006 - 4:31 AM
Thanks for sharing your method for the install.
The extinquisher pocket looks great!
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on March 2, 2006 - 6:18 AM
Awesome looking boats. It's great to see how these boats have evolved over the years.
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on February 27, 2006 - 10:29 PM
I modified the die I use by shortening it and beveling the forward edges a bit. This allows the die to slip into a piece of tubing at an angle if necessary. Many of the tubes in Whaler hulls are not perpendicular to one or both sides of the hull.
Activating the air hammer, the brass tubing flares out quite easily if it has been annealed properly. You can hold the tubing in one hand and the air hammer in the other. A flare is formed in a matter of seconds.
Once I have preformed a flare on one end of a length of tubing I cut the tubing to rough length and insert into the hull with the O-ring under this flare only. I scribe a pencil line around the exposed tube to capture the exact angle that the tubes exits from the hull.
I then draw another line perpendicular to this 5/16" from the hull. A very fine-toothed hacksaw makes the cut easy. I then de-burr the cut by sanding or filing it. You want the edges to be perfectly smooth.
I also use a small abrasive flap wheel chucked into one of my cordless drills and run that into the tubing to de-burr, clean and smooth the inside of the cut tubing.
Now I anneal the cut end and am then ready to apply sealant and O-rings. Once the tube, caulk and O-rings are in place I have a helper hold the tube down from inside the boat with a block of wood while I insert the air hammer and begin the flaring operation on the outside of the hull.
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/g...n_tube.jpg
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/d...ntube1.jpg
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/d...ntube2.jpg
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on February 27, 2006 - 10:15 PM
Jeff,
It is very simple. I started with the flaring tool pictured at the top and disassembled it, removing one of the flaring dies.
I took a low cost air hammer I had and cut the tip off of one of the chisel attachments that came with tool.
The die slips over this cut off attachment as shown above. The die bears on the shoulder that the air hammer's retaining spring would normally wrap around.
I also use a stainless steel washer between the shoulder and the die to help insulate the die from damage.
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/d..._tubes.jpg
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on February 22, 2006 - 4:47 PM
Tom could you give a detailed explaination of you air powered edge roller. I would love to see how you made it as well..
http://www.whalercentral.com/images/T...Sal025.jpg
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on February 18, 2006 - 1:48 PM
Three important points I want to make:
- 1/8" is not nearly enough extra tube length to form a satisfactory flare. I leave 5/16" extra (beyond the hull) which is more than 1/8" beyond the O-ring. I flare the first end of the tubing by hand and put an O-ring on it. Stick the tubing in the hole and mark the outside of the tubing flush with the outside of the hull. Add 5/16" of an inch to that pencil mark and cut the tubing there.
- It is extremely important to anneal the brass tubing before attempting to flare it. If you fail to anneal the tubing you run the risk of splitting the brass. Annealing the brass makes it softer and more pliable.
To anneal brass, heat the tubing with a torch until it begins to glow. Let it cool. You can either let it air cool (takes some time) or quench it in water. Either way works fine.
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on February 17, 2006 - 5:46 PM
John- I can't figure how to privately get this to you. The proper spelling of the harbor is "Roche Harbor" rather than "Roach". It is important for it to be corrected in your article if you would please. Roche is the Premiere Yacht harbor of the Northwest, and abounds with a proud history. "Roche" is pronounced 'roash'."Roach" means vermin or marijuana, neither of which the owners would wish to be associated with their resort/harbor.
Best Regards- Jeff Moore
BTW- This is a common, but unfortunate mispronounce.
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on February 17, 2006 - 5:40 PM
Can anyone send a photo of a sample of the stenciled Hull number for a 13', starting with a 2A? Thanks.
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on February 15, 2006 - 4:01 PM
The numbers fit in the sequence for a 1969, 13' model.
1969...........28501 thru 2A2400
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on February 15, 2006 - 3:04 PM
what would be the year model 2A0321
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on February 14, 2006 - 10:33 AM
Hello fellow members,
I rececently put a 2001 Johnson 70hp 4-stroke on my 1963 Eastport.These engines are heavy but after talking directly with the Boston Whaler tech folks I was told the boat could handle it with no problem.I would suggest two things. You will need power tilt to trim the boat at slower speeds.It really pops up at slow speeds.Install a fin on the shaft.It will help the boat handle a whole lot better, especially at higher speeds.So if you are thinking about it, go for it.You will love the results.
Chris G
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on January 30, 2006 - 2:58 PM
Joe
Very well done.
I powered my 1999 Montauk with a 1999 Merc 50 4 stk. Running a Merc Trophy Sport 4 blade I topped out at 33 mph with 2 people and a fat dog. I was very happy with the combination. Sure miss that boat.
Dick
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on January 3, 2006 - 10:52 AM
Joe, I got it from a forum member for $500.00 plus shipping. I believe Andersons sells them new for around $1000.00 They are pricy, but worth it! It kind of changes the look of the boat, and makes it a bit more passenger friendly.
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on December 28, 2005 - 3:47 PM
Hello and nice stern seat. I have a 1977 19' outrage and I'm looking for a stern seat like yours. I just got a pilot seat on ebay that's is in great shape now I want a stern seat. Where did you get it and how much did it cost?
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on December 12, 2005 - 7:03 PM
Rob - Thanks for the excellent article. The photos really give the perspective needed for such an installation. Great job!
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on November 1, 2005 - 8:11 AM
Joe:
Thanks for these instructions, and thanks to Mike for leading me to them.
Regards, Michael
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on October 29, 2005 - 12:07 PM
Joe,
My 1986 22 Outrage as A22002 stenciled number. You mean it's the 2002 hull issued from the mold ?
Regards, Tight lines
Alain
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on October 25, 2005 - 11:31 PM
The old PYHI deck plates are no longer available in the correct color or most sizes. PYHI was bought out by another company and I don't recall their name at this time. I have heard reports that you can take out the PYHI and put in a Beckson but I am not sure. If you have the oportunity I would try to take out your worst PYHI and see if it will match up to a Beckson in size. Then you can buy the correct color of Beckson for your Outrage. If you do buy any 6" Becksons, make sure they are the "Thin Ring" style.
Let us know.
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on June 27, 2005 - 7:27 AM
Thanks for the valuable input on this.
I have seen these on Ebay too and they look like an exact "drop in" replacement. I would have been very disapointed and have decided, like you, to have my original rechromed.
How did the rechrome job come out by the way.
I am told, "Talk to your local Harley dealer" for a good reccomendation on a quality plater.
Lance
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on May 31, 2005 - 10:55 PM
earlier yesterday, i found out that my outrage deck plate is an pyhi not a beckson deck plate, what do you suggest i should do? remove the old pyhi deck plate 6"and install the new beckson deck plate 6" (clear center for the fuel gauge)? or replace with the origional pyhi?
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on May 4, 2005 - 5:24 PM
Jeff -
Truly AMAZING!
The article is great, good tricks and advice.
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