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Teak Refinishing
GTL
#1 Print Post
Posted on 12/13/06 - 1:41 AM
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Posts: 25
Comments: 1
Joined: 07/09/06

Read the article on teak refinishing of gunwales the easy way .... just what I wanted.
Removed the hatches from my 22' Whaler and started. First had to repair the section where the hinges mount, it was cracked and flexing. Drilled 5 holes in from the edge, installed 5 stainless screw (2.5 inches long), plugged and sanded and was almost good as new. One section still has a crack, which didn't pull together, but I believe that is a weather crack that happen to be in the same area.
I'm attempting to attach a picture link showing the repaired sanded hatch, with the other hatch next to it. The sanding took some time, but it looked ok and was noticable smoother and flat.

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/GTLal/Hatchaftersanding.jpg or
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/GTLal/Hatchaftersanding.jpg[/IMG]

The next step was to apply teak oil .... but I used Amazon's Golden Teak oil rather than Starbrite Premium Golden as listed in the article. The results are shown in the picture link below;

http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/GTLal/Oiledhatch.jpg or
[IMG]http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r206/GTLal/Oiledhatch.jpg[/IMG]

I applied two coats and let dry ...when I looked at it the next day I was very disappointed with the results ... not uniform appearance and dark lines though out.

So is my problem the selection of teak oil, or is this just a result of the aged wood?
If it's the oil, how do I repair it? I'm considering getting some two part teak cleaner and starting again, but though I'd ask recommendations first ....I was hoping it would look as nice as Joe's gunwales.

Trying to avoid staining and varnish.

PS: how do I make the photo links such that all you have to do is click on it to show the picture .... right now you have to copy and paste to the "address bar " to view the pictures

 
Tom W Clark
#2 Print Post
Posted on 12/13/06 - 5:55 AM
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Posts: 4280
Comments: 7
Joined: 09/30/05

The color variation you are seeing is the result of the wood, not the oil. While I much prefer Daly's SeaFin Teak OIl, the Amazon product has a good reputation too.

Whatever you do, DO NOT use teak cleaner. It will destroy the wood by eating out the soft grain and leaving the surface ridged which will in turn catch more dirt and accelerate the deterioration of the wood.

The only way to improve the appearance of the wood (which I do not think looks bad at all) is to sand it down again, taking the surface of the teak deeper to a level where there is less dirt and deterioration.

Also understand that every piece of wood is different and will not necessarily be uniform.

To make a link with a URL simple type [url] before the address and [/url] after it. There can be no spaces between these tags and the address.


Edited by Tom W Clark on 12/13/06 - 5:56 AM
 
Jeff
#3 Print Post
Posted on 12/13/06 - 6:25 AM
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Posts: 1987
Comments: 34
Joined: 04/02/05

I agree with Tom howerever,

The coloration can also be caused by how you sanded the wood. If you overheat the wood those dark gains become amplified.

I had the same this happen to me when I was refinishing a piece of teak. I was using a Dewalt DA Sander and there were some areas I really worked/overworked the sander and overheated wood with out knowing it. This discoloration only shows up when a finish is applied. I had to wait from the wood to dry and then and sanded using long strokes running the gain direction of the wood. The second finish turned out better but did not completely solve the problem. Once those discolorations occure it is really just the bleaching of the sun that will remove them. It does not matter whether you use oil, spar vanrish, or an epoxy the colors will show up.

If you are using a power sander be sure to keep it moving in a large area. Never work it in one spot of to long or press it down really hard on the wood and keep it there for more than a second.


Also here is how I oil my teak....
I use Behlen Master Teak oil on my wood. After 8-10 coats it will no longer absorb into the wood and begins to collect on the surface of the wood. I will do one or two coats after that. After letting stand of an hour, to two at most, I go back with a clean teri cloth rag and polish it out to a shine. Then after that once a year I wet sand the teak with 800 grit then after it dries I redo the finish with the same process. The teak looks great all year. If it dulls just a light coat and buff is look like new again.


Here is a link to the oil. I can find it at all the fine wood working shops in my area.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?...ilyID=7252
Here is how it turns out:
All of the images
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...user_id=35

[img]http://www.whalercentral.com/images/ppimages/35/Memorial%20Weekend%202006%20063.jpg[/img]


Edited by Jeff on 12/13/06 - 6:37 AM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
 
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