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How long to run flush on earmuffs?
bccanucker
#1 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 11:58 AM
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Hi: As part of my learning curve on proper maintenance I just had my gear oil and water pump replaced on my 98 115HP V4 2 stroke Yamaha . We boat in saltwater. The mechanic told me that when I do the fresh water flush I should run the engine on the earmuffs for 10-15 minutes to do a proper flush.
Do you guys run it that long?
I think my neighbours would kick me out of the neighborhood for making that much noise


Roy Warner
1983 17 Montauk - 1998 Yamaha 115 V4 2 stroke
 
CES
#2 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 12:50 PM
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When I lived in the Florida Keys and ran my boat in salt water, I ran it about 5-8 minutes max and have never had a problem as a result of that. I made sure the entire engine was thoroughly rinsed with fresh water too.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
modenacart
#3 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 1:28 PM
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I run about five minutes or alittle more. I like to rinse the outside before I run it because I don't want to risk getting water on a hot block.

 
Blackduck
#4 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 1:41 PM
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For winter layover, I run for at least half an hour.


Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
 
MW
#5 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 1:52 PM
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About 5+ minutes at the dock, some people use a product called "Salt away" that hook's up between the garden hose and muff's for an extra cleaning. If you run in "salt water" you should "Flush" out EVERY time you use the motor, and rinse it down well.
Grease all fitting's at least once every 2 weeks
2 on the tilt tube
2 on the pivot tube


Edited by MW on 07/07/09 - 1:57 PM
Matt
 
KeyRat
#6 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 2:08 PM
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My goal when I flush is to make sure that there's no salt water in the engine. I run for 5 or so minutes and then "taste" the water to make sure it's fresh.

 
MW
#7 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 2:10 PM
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I taste it too, glad I'm not the only one, you can also smell the chlorine in it from the garden hose.


Matt
 
Blackduck
#8 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 2:13 PM
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If I'm going to be using the boat once or twice a week, I do nothing. I think the salt water keeps the passages open on it's own. Seems like problems only develop after long layovers. Maybe I have just had good luck, but no problems for many years. Saltwater seems to remove salt residue easier than fresh, but over time, if not flushed with fresh, the corrosion begins.


Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
 
Phil T
#9 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 2:22 PM
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I flush using the hose attachment for ~15 minutes while the engine is still warm (live 1 mile from the ramp). During this time I put everything away, pull the deck plates (Outrage with internal fuel tank) and put on the tarp cover. Then I rinse the hull and trailer.

I don't use any products for flushing.

 
bottomfish
#10 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 2:44 PM
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I try to do it immediatly while everything is still wet. I try to never let salt water dry internally. I run it for approx 5 min and taste it. If it tastes like garden hose your fine. Like the others said rinse and lube. I lube once a month but spray the motor and everything around the bottom of the cowling with corrosion block then wipe off every other trip. No corrosion problems.

 
Marty Johns Isd SC
#11 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 3:01 PM
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Wow! I thought I was the only one who tasted the water coming out of the motor!!!! I too rinse for at least five minutes as soon as I return home from the salt water. I also use soapy water and a stiff bristled brush and scrub as much of the motor as I can reach with the brush. After it is dry I spray a little lube on the tilt/trim pistons since I only get out once a week. I also grease the steering arm to the motor once a month and turn the motor so that the shaft is not exposed, but inside the sleeve. I hope that helps. And taste the water.
Marty Durham

 
bccanucker
#12 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 4:34 PM
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Thanks for your replies. Very informative.
I notice when running on the muffs that the water stream is about 75% of what it is when I'm running in the ocean. Is that normal?
The last 2 times I've done this out of the water, the engine backfired once when it started. Is that normal?


Roy Warner
1983 17 Montauk - 1998 Yamaha 115 V4 2 stroke
 
Joe Kriz
#13 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 4:38 PM
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When running on muffs there is not back pressure for the exhaust so the engine does not run exactly like it does in water.

Most repair stations run the engines in a water tank and not on muffs when they are working on the engine.

 
HawkandDove
#14 Print Post
Posted on 07/07/09 - 10:13 PM
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i'm with keyrat on this, i run mine till i can no longer "taste" saltwater coming from the engine.

 
chiburis4
#15 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 4:28 AM
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I think the point is to get the engine temperature high enough to open the thermostat(s) and clear the powerhead of salt water. 5-8 minutes should be fine.

 
rbritdu
#16 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 4:55 AM
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I have a 225 Saltwater series 2 stroke and when the boat is in the water which is a few montha I just run fresh water thru the attachment for the hose for 5-10 mins each time I use the engine . I also wash off any salt water on the out side . I flush the engine with the engine off . Iam I doing any good ? Oh Boy!!! Now Iam wondering ????


Bob
1979 V-22 Outrage, 225 HP Yamaha
 
bruser
#17 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 8:21 AM
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I have found if you put a wet towel over the prop when running on the muffs that the exhaust note is not so sharp, and it increases back pressure somewhat.

 
k-bay whaler
#18 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 10:06 AM
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I have a 2005 Johnson 4 stroke. I ususally use a splitter at the hose bib and run one hose to flush the motor and one to wash down the boat. i unload the boat, start washing down and after about 6-10 minutes shut the motor down.
I also saw a boating show that said to extend the steering cable shaft out of the sleeve to leave a majority exposed in case it freezes up, there's less shaft in the sleeve and its easier to work free. Until then I used to use the shaft in the sleeve. Which is better?

 
CES
#19 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 10:36 AM
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K-bay, If you keep the steering shaft lubed then it freezing in the tube shouldn't be an issue.


Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker
 
MW
#20 Print Post
Posted on 07/08/09 - 12:48 PM
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Put a "Steersman" nut ($20 marine store) on the end of the cable and keep it well lubed, then it does'nt matter if the shaft is "IN or "OUT".


Matt
 
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