1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Montauk style seat back
stonephoto	#1  Posted on 09/09/06 - 10:05 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/06	I am in the process of building a mahogany Montauk style seat back for my 1988 Newport and was wondering how I should "fasten" the wood togeather. What kind of glue? Nails or screws? Stainless steel nails? Also, would it be ok to glue a bunch of 3 1/2" mahogany decking boards together for the bow door? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Matt
alfa	#2  Posted on 09/10/06 - 2:59 AM
Member Posts: 11 Comments: 5 Joined: 05/11/05	For glue I use the International brand PPU 100. But add SS scews. Good woodworking. Alain
Jeff	#3  Posted on 09/11/06 - 2:37 PM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	I use either Tight Bond wood glue outdoor and water use. It has a greeen top. Or I would also recomend using Gorilla Glue. With Gorilla glue I would not even sorry about screwing it together. 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 09/11/06 - 2:47 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Matt, Have you seen the drawings for the RPS in the drawings section? They are screwed together and then bungs are used to hide the screw heads. Probably glued also but don't know for sure as I have never taken one that far apart. Just out of curiosity, why not use teak? I know it is more expensive, but teak has a beautiful look about it. I would consider teak for the bow locker cover also. Just like the original. I have had a drawing for the teak bow locker cover in progress for awhile now. I hope to finish this drawing over the winter months.
stonephoto	#5  Posted on 09/11/06 - 8:39 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/06	Thank you for your response. I was/am using your drawings. One question though, what is the piece that is hidden (dashes on the drawing) at the bottom of the back rest? It shows that it's 3 7/8" x 1/2"? I made the instrument panels and the piece that keeps the stuff from rolling off the console out of teak and it cost a small fortune. One 1x6x32" roughcut of teak cost $62.00. I also figured since Whaler used Mahogany it can't be half bad (even though it's half the price)! I also have to make a anchor door and the stern piece, so get drawing....Ha ha ha! Matt
Joe Kriz	#6  Posted on 09/11/06 - 10:34 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Matt, Those little pieces are braces. They attach to the back so it gives the wood support where it has been cutout. Teak is roughly $13 to $14 a board foot. I don't want to insult you but a board foot is 1 foot x 1 foot x 1 inch thick. So, you paid way too much for that piece of teak. You had a little over 1 board foot so it should have cost you $18 to $20 tops....
stonephoto	#7  Posted on 09/21/06 - 9:57 PM
Member Posts: 5 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/02/06	There is no information on the drawings that explain the size, location and depth of the holes that the bars fit into that move the seat back and forth. The holes aren't drilled all the way through, right? The seat back is almost finished and I will take a picture of it and send it to you when it is. Thank you very much for all your help! Matt