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In an effort to get my trailer even lower, is there any reason why you couldn't put the axle on top of the springs? I'm currently working on the trailer replacing almost everything and had stumbled across the idea. The fender clearance was my first concern but that wouldn't be an issue because they are getting replaced and I will be welding new fenders on so I could allow for clearance. I've seen axles both above and below on vehicles, so would it be an issue?
The boat to be hauled is a 13 ft sport so it's not an extreme amount of weight.
1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude
Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
I just did that. The problem I encountered were the fenders. My fix was to get a wider axle, the original lenght did not allow for fender repositioning.
I can send you pictures if you like. I have never been able to post pictures here.
By the way my boat is also a 13'
Fender clearance which you have a plan for and axle clearance relative to the trailer frame and keel of the boat (if your crossmembers are V shaped) with a reasonable amount of spring compression for bumps in the road.
The cross member(straight) and frame should not be a problem. As far launch and recovery, the bow can not come into contact with axle either as the cross member is just forward of the axle and has a keel roller. I should have about 8" or so clearance between frame and axle maybe more not sure, I'm putting new spring so I'm not sure what the travel will be on those. any idea on what the spring travel should or could on a fully loaded boat setting on trailer with slipper 3 leaf spring rig?
1963 13' Sport 50hp Evinrude
Maintaining a level of sanity that is socially acceptable
The axle on my trailer is a galvanized closed box beam, with a machined bearing shaft stub welded on each end. At the center of the axle on the bottom edge, there is a small hole, presumably for drainage. When I flipped the axle to the top of the springs, the hole ended up on top. This looked like an invitation to permanent water in the axle cavity, so I drilled a new hole on the (new) bottom side and primed/cold galvanized/RTV sealed the top hole.
I had enough fender clearance as is, but I did note at the time that if it was a problem, I could if needed put up to 3/4" in shims between the trailer frame and the top axle mounting bracket, which also serves as the fender mounting bracket. The existing U-bolts were long enough. Another possible way to buy some needed clearance.
