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Boyesen Reeds
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| Eri |
Posted on 01/25/09 - 5:32 PM
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Anyone play with changing out the reeds on an outboard. I have a 1991 V4 140 Johnson that runs my 18 Newport about 35 knots. Just looking to get a little more out of it while going through the carbs and cleaning it up over the winter.
Thanks,
Eric
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| Guts |
Posted on 01/26/09 - 11:02 AM
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My experience with reeds on twosmokers is, the high performance reeds do work. the draw back is they don't last as long. If you want to hop it up... port the engine, lower the intake and raise the exhaust, and maybe mill the head for higher compression.
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/26/09 - 11:48 AM
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Have you reviewed the mounting height of the motor, WOT RPM's and prop setup?
If the motor is sitting on the transom and/or not getting max RPM at WOT, you could gain as much as 5 kts.
The anti-cavitation plate should be ~ 1 to 1 1/2 inches above the keel. Most often this translates into the top bolt in the 2nd or 3rd hole down from the top.
How is the motor currently rigged? Max RPM's at WOT with light load? Current prop (brand, diameter and pitch)?
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| Eri |
Posted on 01/26/09 - 3:36 PM
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I am getting the full 5500 out of her with the 17p. I run a 17 pitch for water skiing and a 19p (5200) for a little better mileage. I have tried a 4 blade 20 but i was only hitting 4800. i am using the XHS hub system. I have seen as much as 36 knots which does not seem to out of place for a 140. I was going to look for a v6 150 for a little more torque for water skiing and maybe a little more up top. This motor runs good so i think i am gonna stick with it for this year. I understand the porting and compression angles but i was just looking for something that was relatively inexpensive. I am not going to take her all down. All my time is on the hull. The engine height seems ok i did not want to loose any pulling power for water skiing but raising it but i may go up one hole.
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| Guts |
Posted on 01/26/09 - 5:46 PM
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Eri if the engine has a reed block type rather than the old style crank shaft kind ( like the old mercury's) And the reed block is easy to get to with the carburetors off I say go for it. I think you will see a difference in the performance.
Guts
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| Eri |
Posted on 01/26/09 - 7:44 PM
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It does have the reed block. I think its worth a try while i have it off. Its only a hundred bucks or so. Cant hurt. Maybe pickup some low end throttle reponse. Supposedly the new reeds are a two stage setup to maybe like a two stage auto intake manifold it will pickup a little torque yet provide a little more breathing up top.
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| joninnj |
Posted on 01/27/09 - 4:38 AM
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Hi Eri,
With carbs off and the reed system out, I would do go for it... If I need to rebuild the cabs on my 90 yamie I will do this as well. From what I recall the part was about $100.
I have never read anything negative about the longevity of this product, but is had been out there for may years with positive reviews.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 01/27/09 - 7:36 AM
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Is it that the reeds are larger on the performance box and allow more/easier air flow?
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| Eri |
Posted on 01/29/09 - 11:27 AM
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I think it has more to do with the rate in which they bend and open. The new ones are called two stage. A reed on a reed in which the smaller ones open easier and first and the larger ones open at higher rpms. My understanding is this smooths out air intake rates and is supposed to offer more low end torque and then more airflow up top.
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| MW |
Posted on 01/30/09 - 5:41 PM
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I had an "Over Bore" done, on a re-build once w/ pistons/rings etc. Throttle response was faster and crisper but, top end was the same. It's not like as big a difference as in an automotive "over bore" where 030 x 8 cyl= more displacement and power. it's only 2 or 3 or 4 cylinders (in most cases) so displacement gain is not that much. 2-stroke outboards are pretty much "High Performance" engines to begin with, you can imagine what your car engine would look like if you ran it around at 5,500 RPM all day.
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| Eri |
Posted on 01/31/09 - 6:52 PM
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I agree with that statement. I was actually just looking for a little more punch out of the hole for water skiing. My buddy uses a water ski with both feet mounted in boots so its very hard to pull him out. I usually exchange out the props to a lower one for skiing but i loose about 5 mph on top end. Fuel mileage drops off significantly.
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| MW |
Posted on 02/01/09 - 2:36 AM
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Unfortunately there are almost no bolt-on "power adder's" for outboards. About the best you can do is change the prop for skiing (like you did), for better "out of the hole torque" but, like you said, ya lose some at top end. My experiance with outboards is keep them well tuned (fresh plugs make a world of difference on an outboard), use good fresh fuel and
"Carbon guard", "Ring Guard", or "Sea Foam", (recent fuel quality is highly questionable) change out your water pump fully, wear plates and housing, it's NOT the place to be frugal, I do mine every 2 years with thermostat, a prop needs to be almost perfect for peak engine performance, other than that, ya gotta upgrade to a more powerful engine.
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| Eri |
Posted on 02/01/09 - 7:28 AM
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I hear ya. I am an engine mechanic by trade and always like to tinker a little. Thanks for the advice.
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| MW |
Posted on 02/01/09 - 11:07 AM
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yep, I gotcha brotha, I agree, a small bottle of "Sneaky Pete" N.O.X. would be nice if ya could do it. prolly melt the "mill" though.
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| Guts |
Posted on 02/11/09 - 2:27 PM
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Eri have you got it back together yet? I would like to here about the performance, with the new reeds.
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| Eri |
Posted on 02/12/09 - 8:42 AM
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Probably not until April or so. I am painting the bottom this weekend. Turning it back up in a couple of weeks. Redoing the entire interior and wood. Then I will bolt on the motor and work on it. Hopefully running by Memorial Day.
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| Guts |
Posted on 02/12/09 - 9:34 AM
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Thanks Eri I will look forward to your comments.
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