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Bow Bit Removal from 1986 Outrage
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| rather b boating |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 7:12 AM
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What is the trick to removing the bow cleat on my 1986 Outrage? I want to replace the rub rail. I can't loosen the screws. HELP!
Edited by Tom W Clark on 11/28/08 - 9:18 AM |
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| Doug V |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 8:24 AM
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I tried to loosen the screws on the samson post soon after I bought my boat, but quickly gave up. I could see that it was going to turn into it's own project, which I did not want to tackle at the time, as I already had a few projects ongoing.
I will one day want to replace the rub rail on my 22 and will tackle the removal at that time.
You may have luck using some of the commercially available sprays like PB Blaster or Kroil to loosen the corrosion. After having read a few forum entries concerning this problem I think you will most likely have to drill out the screws and re-tap new threads.
The problem is due to corrosion, the stainless screws "become one" with the aluminum backing plate that is molded into the bow of the boat and also probably with the Marinium samson post as well.
From what I have read on this forum it sounds like a pretty tough project, but with enough determination, not impossible,
Doug
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| Phil T |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 9:42 AM
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Doug is spot on with his advice.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| rather b boating |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 10:08 AM
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thanks guys. i will give it a try with the spray.
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 10:15 AM
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Chances are the screws are fused in there, but if you're going to try the penetrating lube, you may want to pick up this impact driver below. I've had great success with it, and it will also help the lube penetrate the threads too. It'll increase your odds of success significantly.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12...947641000P
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| Blackduck |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 11:20 AM
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If the boat has spent the last 22 years in a saltwater environment, sprays and an impact driver will most likely not work. You will have to drill them out. Drill the heads off with a large bit, then center punch them, and drill a small hole in the middle before using the proper size bit for the 1/4" bolt tap. This is really not that bad of a job, I just wouldn't waste a lot of time trying to loosen up those seized old bolts.
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 11:36 AM
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The impact driver, used AFTER penetrating oil has been allowed a day or two to work, will be your best bet. I have had good luck with this technique.
If you are going to use an impact driver you must observe the following:
Be sure the screw head is clean and free of any lubricating substances like the penetrating oil you have used. Do not use an impact driver after you have cobbled the screw head with a screwdriver. Make a plan from the get-go to use the impact driver.
The bit on the impact driver must be appropriately sized and fit the screw head well.
You MUST believe it will work and not be hesitant about striking the impact driver. Strike it hard. Half hearted attempts will not succeed.
Edited by Tom W Clark on 11/28/08 - 11:38 AM |
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| Channel Point |
Posted on 11/28/08 - 3:06 PM
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Good Information received. Consider the age of the Alliminium backing plate and how it has been stressed over the years with natural deterioration. I would only consider re-tapping with a considerably larger size bolt to be clear of fatigued alloy. From another angle, less favourable asthetically is to cut through a circular section on the inside coaming gaining access to the underside of the bow gunnel section. re fit a pre drilled replacement backing pad. This way you have peace of mind you are bolted to a strong point! Sealing the hole can be done using alliminium plate or Stainless steel. Alternatively, fibfreglass in a backing plate and remould in your coaming section, re gelcoat and re polish.
2 pack foam, or aerosol foam can be reinstalled before resealing.
I re modelled the bow of my Outrage 27 fortunately access for bolting was easy, I had to cut the dolphin platform off and re mould the boat section first prior to shaping the stainless steel nose mooring plate. Hope this helps as an alternative! Regards, Derek
Channel Point attached the following image:
[52.17Kb]
Edited by Channel Point on 12/01/08 - 2:07 PM |
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