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Winterize a 2005 Honda 25 HP
Slozloski
#1 Print Post
Posted on 10/18/08 - 12:08 PM
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Hi,

Happy spring. I'm so bummed. It was 32ยบ here in Maine this morning. Arrrgh.. So much for the boating season. Fishing season ended last month anyway. Seems like I never get out in the boat enough.

I am getting ready to winterize my 13' Whaler. I have a Honda 25HP 4 stroke on it. I've never had a 4 stroke before so I'm trying to figure out what to do.

I'm going to change the lower unit oil. I bought a Honda hand pump that will screw in properly. I understand the whole pump it in from the bottom deal. So I should be set there.

I'm going to stabilize the gas and run the engine for 10-15 minutes? Is that long enough/too long? When I'm doing this, is it sufficient to just put ear muffs over the water intake holes? or do I need the tube that screws into the lower unit?

As far as fogging the engine, will it be sufficient for me to just take out the plugs and fog the holes? Do I need to crank the engine to get fog on the pistons? I can't seem to see a carburetor to fog until it stalls like I did with my old Johnson 2 stroke.

I was told I need a 16MM spark plug socket to remove my spark plugs. I did a Google search and there's a ton and I'm not sure exactly what I need. Can anyone suggest what kind of socket I need and where I can get it? or would a regular old 16 MM - 12 pt like you get at sears work. Like this one ----> http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12...945941000P

Thank you for your consideration.

Sloz.

 
Derwd24
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Posted on 10/18/08 - 4:23 PM
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These engines are pretty efficient, so I'm not sure if they'd use that much fuel at idle. Is there any way you can add preservative to the tank, and then pump it through the fuel line and back into the tank to get the preserved fuel up to the engine connector? Then hook it up and run it, I think that way you'd be sure it would make it into the engine.

The reason you had to fog through the carbs in the old 2 stroke was to get the fogging oil onto the reed box behind the carbs, but there's no need for that in the 4 stroke as the valves have replaced the box.

Unless Honda uses some kind of different plug, I think a regular socket should fit fine to remove the plugs so you can fog the cylinders individually. Just like with your 2 stroke, you want to manually turn the flywheel by hand to distribute the fogging oil throughout the cylinder. (this is easier with all the plugs out)

And my guess would be to change the engine oil in the spring before starting it the first time to remove any condensation that may accumulate in the oil from the heat/cool cycles over the winter. But you may want to check your owners manual to confirm that.


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
Slozloski
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Posted on 10/18/08 - 4:58 PM
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Your awesome Derwd! Thanks for the answer and clarifying for me. I appreciate it.

I have a portable gas tank with a bulb on it. You mean pump the bulb so the gas goes up through there like that?

I talked to the marina that sold me the engine today and he said you should always put the boat away for the winter with fresh oil. They use a Honda 1030 so that's what I got.

Thanks again. I feel better about stuff now.

 
Phil T
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Posted on 10/18/08 - 5:02 PM
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Did the engine come with an operator's manual? They usually have a section for "long term storage" and will give you the steps and techniques.

If you don't have a manual, it is worth purchasing.


1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
Slozloski
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Posted on 10/18/08 - 5:21 PM
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Yea I have the manual but it doesn't give me detail about stuff like spark plug socet size and the fact you need a special screw in tube for the lower unit oil. It's like 2 paragraphs long. I guess that means they are clean engines that don't need much maintenance. I just wanted to make sure.

 
burtim
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Posted on 10/18/08 - 6:05 PM
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This is a good thread.

I have a 2001 Mercury 40 HP 2 stroke that I jist finished winterizing per the manual. It is my first winter as the owner and I've never had a motor before. I did everything as listed in the manual except when I got done fogging the cylinders I cranked the engine with the starter instead of the flywheel. Even though I ran all the fuel out, to my surprise, the engine started and began to run. I quickly shut it off. It should have only had fogging spray in it. The gas was ran out all the way. Anyhow, should I spray the cylinders again and redistribute with turning the flywheel or should I be good to go?

 
HarleyFXDL
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Posted on 10/18/08 - 6:06 PM
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I spoke with my local Yamaha dealer regarding my 4-stroke. He stated leave as little fuel in the tank as possible. The ethanol absorbs water like a sponge and the new fuel breaks down sooner than the old stuff. I was told to start the engine and disconnect the fuel line and let the engine run out of gas.

 
tedious
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Posted on 10/19/08 - 6:15 AM
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To OP, it takes a long time to draw enough fuel through the system at idle, unfortunately. We stabilize the day before, so it gets into the system on the way from the mooring to the ramp.

To Burtim, yes, you should put another squirt into each plug hole and crank again to distribute the oil. There's no need to crank it like you're trying to start the motor - just kick it over a couple of times.

Tim

 
Derwd24
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Posted on 10/19/08 - 7:53 AM
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Not sure about the Honda fuel line, but on the Johnson/Evinrude you can push in on the small ball bearing at the end of the connector to open up the line either to drain it or pump fuel through. Take a look, you may be able to do the same on your line.

Burtim, fogger is cheap insurance and I agree about putting another squirt in. When all the plugs are out, you can easily turn the motor by hand (or with a socket on the flywheel nut) eliminating the chance of any starting or sparking problems that may damage the ignition if you crank with the key when the plugs are out of the circuit.


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
Slozloski
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Posted on 10/26/08 - 9:28 AM
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I thought letting an engine run until the gas ran out was bad. Plus it's always hard to restart the engine.

If the boat is in my driveway, can I stabilize the gas and run the engine or is this completely pointless. Could I put it in gear to burn more stabilized gas?

 
Phil T
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Posted on 10/26/08 - 4:01 PM
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Sloz -

With a 4 stroke, I don't believe it makes a difference . I run my engine with stabilized fuel year round. When winterizing, I pull the plugs, spray fogging oil, turn over a few times and that's it. While I change the fuel filter under the cowl, fuel system is left alone.

If on a portable tank, add stabilizer then add the fresh gas. Run on muffs at idle for 15 minutes. By that time the stabilized fuel has made it from the tank to the engine.

Where are you in Maine? PM me.




1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
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