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Trailer modification
moose
#1 Print Post
Posted on 10/11/08 - 8:37 AM
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My new trailer is an aluminum I-beam e z loader. I really like the set up and quality. The trouble I'm having is that it is too wide to fit through my 8' roll up door. There is plenty of room between the tires/wheels and the beams, and the fenders and light poles can easily be moved. I am thinking of cutting several inches out of the middle of the axle, bringing the sides in, and using a sleeve over the two sides to rejoin them. I could weld or bolt it back together. I'm concerned that if I don't seal off that joint water would intrude and remain inside to accelerate rust. Any experience out there with this project? I'm open to any suggestions.
Mike

 
Binkie
#2 Print Post
Posted on 10/11/08 - 9:29 AM
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I can`t imagine that the trailer in question is for your 13` Whaler. I just measured the distance between the tires on my trailer that my 13 footer is sitting on and its only 68". Axles are fairly cheap. It might be better to get a new one of the right length. Make sure its galvanized. You could section the old one by running a length of pipe over the two cut pieces, but you need to make sure it it straight (aligned) before you weld it back together, and you will lose any galvanized protection on the new piece. If the trailer is new, maybe the builder will swap out axles for you.

rich


Rich
 
moose
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Posted on 10/11/08 - 9:35 AM
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Rich,
It's not for my 13. I also was misleading in that it is a new to me trailer. The axle is square. If I cut a section out and used a sleeve of about a foot in length it will keep it straight. I don't know if a good sealer like 5200 would keep it water tight for any linght of time. Welding and a cold galvanize spray might be what i need but my thinking can easily get me into trouble. That's why I'm asking.
Mike

 
Bake
#4 Print Post
Posted on 10/11/08 - 10:31 AM
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welding both sides all the way around should keep water out. Treat it with a good metal primer and paint. I do not think the 5200 is going to be what you are looking for in this situation. It should not affect the life of the tube.

 
Troy
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Posted on 10/11/08 - 3:14 PM
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Just a few thoughts here....It's really tough to keep iron truly straight when welding, even if you are welding evenly on all sides of the square tube. Cutting and then fitting closely inside another tube with through bolts would probably be an easier way to insure a straight axle. If water retention is an issue you could put some drainage holes in, though this still won't keep the funk from starting to grow in the axle. As noted above, getting a new axle that is the correct lenghth might make a lot more sense. Good luck. Sounds like another fun project.


Edited by Troy on 10/11/08 - 3:15 PM
Troy
1985 Outrage 18
 
Joe Kriz
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Posted on 10/11/08 - 3:23 PM
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I would also suggest a new axle of the correct size.

 
Phil T
#7 Print Post
Posted on 10/11/08 - 3:32 PM
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Moose -

How wide is the trailer and how wide is the door?

Have you considered looking at the door opening. I modified a garage opening by moving the tracks outward a bit and replacing the rollers. I found new rollers with a longer shaft. I also played around with the trim (removed a decorative piece around the door and that, in addition to cutting back the fenders and repositioning the guide rail brackets, got me the room needed.

Just a thought.


1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
 
moose
#8 Print Post
Posted on 10/12/08 - 6:52 AM
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Thanks everyone,
I knew I'd get some good ideas. Phil, moving the tracks and making the opening wider won't work on this one. Troy, if I weld it there will be a sleeve couple of feet in length over the two pieces where they but together so it would be straight. I'll price a new axle and decide from there. Right now if I remove the fenders the tires on both sides rub squeezing through the doorway.
Thanks again,
Mike

 
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