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Ok great holders of knowledge:
Can you advise me please.....
I have read here that the correct way to trailer a Whaler is with the weight on the keel, probably on rollers, with support at the sides for the hull.
I am about to get a new trailer for what is essentially a '88 - 20' Outrage with Whaler drive. I think I want the trailer to go to the end of the Whaler drive and let the engine hang off, right ? if so, how far forward do I want the rear of the 2 axles to be mounted ? How about the bunks ? What is your opinion on capacity and overall length ? One of the dealers here in Miami is trying to sell me a "float on" style, with only the 2 bunks to sit on, and no keel support, sounds wrong to me. I do plan to put some long miles on this trailer running to the Keya and West Coast, so I want to be able to do it wisely.
I would take your trailer and boat to a local trailer builder and let him set your trailer up for you. We don`t have any pics, and the info you want should come from a pro. I always liked float on trailers, and had good luck with them, but have never used one on a Whaler.
Chris,
Not sure with the whaler drive you need to have the trailer all the way to the end of the whaler drive, you probably want it that far for lights and stuff. I would be worried that having that much empty trailer would make loading and unloading a challenge. The best people to ask in your area is Continental Trailers There are several whaler folks that drive long distances and won't have anything else under the whaler.
check this out as well good stuff about setting up a trailer,Trailer Info
Thanks so far for the reply's...
I want to make sure that I am riding low so the standard float on type is not looking so good, the bunks are always high and the axles narrow. My trailer guy says he outfits new Whalers all the time, and I have bought a lot of trailers from him. Just printed out the info on set up to pass along.
Whaler now puts their boats on float on trailers. I can tell you that having it on a trailer with keel rollers setup correctly is a breeze to both launch and load.
I have heard (but never used ) roller bunks. (rollers built into the bunks) with Boston Whalers is a no-no, and they will over time leave ripples in your hull. I didn`t know aluminum float on trailers were standard issue with new Whalers. I always loved them, but wasn`t sure whether they would cause a deflection in the bottom of Whalers becuase all the weight was on the bunks. (no keel rollers). The problem that arises with float ons is when you encounter a ramp with a drop off and can`t get the boat in far enough to float it off. this problem can be mostly eliminated if your float-on has torsion axles (no springs), or a drop axle, so the boat sits closer to the ground. Some people have tried donut tires to get the rig closer to the ground, but the trailer will the float, when trying to reteave the boat. I would like to build a float on for my 13 footer, but the price of aluminum is so high. An aluminum float on for a 13 footer is simple to build as the trailer is short enough that straight aluminum I beams can be used.
I used an aluminum float-on with a 24` Aquasport. I attached galvinized 3/4' chains about 8 ft. long inside a piece of PVC going from the bow stop (no which was used) to each side of the frame so a long vee was formed. I used turnbuckles to tighten the chains and attach them to the aluminum frame. it made the boat fool proof to retrieve, Just dive it between the PVC guide posts, the boat would then encounter the PVC covered chains, and be directed right to the bow post. Very simple and effective. Also if the ramp was slippery, the boat could help push the truck up the ramp. if someone was at the controls to run the engines, and then cut them off as they lifted from the water.. To launch, just tie a line to the bow and to the trailer, and drive in until the boat floats off.
rich
Snaptraxx.com makes a plastic piece that snaps onto the bunks. This replaces the carpet. I have A Magic Tilt bunk trailer with no keel support, just 2 port and starboard 8' bunks. I have run it from Miami To New York, to Louisiana, and then to Jacksonville.
It slides on and off easy and does not move on the highway.
I have a tiedown forward and 2 aft.
The bunks extend about 6 inches past the transom and then stop at the console going forward.
The boat is a 17' montauk.
I have sent a note to the member here that knows the most about trailers and Continental Trailers specifically. Hopefully he will offer his advice on which one is the best for the 25 Whaler w/ WD. I was looking on their site but wasn't sure which way you should go.
For a 25 foot boat, I would not use anything but keel rollers, setup like the link I provided above. It's easy to load a 17 footer on bunks, but no way I would try it on a 25. I have a friend that has a 190 Nantucket, with bunks and that is the biggest pain to load onto a trailer. With keel rollers, I can winch up my 18 solo in 2 minutes or less from floating freely behind the trailer, to locked tight to the bow stop.
WEll I haave read a lot and found a lot out from my new Whaler Friends. I am thinking of going with a float on type system that allows the bunks to be secondary supports and mount keel rollers to the center for the bulk of the weight. I want the boat to sit low so I will be carefull how its builtI also want the bunks to extend back to about 6-10 inches beyond the Whaler Drive this should put the trailer about 30"long !
I think you are partially on the wrong track. You are lucky to be in FL, only place where you can get a great keel roller trailer these days, a Continental. It's the best keel roller trailer you can find for a Whaler.
For a 20' WD model, YOU DO NOT SUPPORT THE WHALER DRIVE. See my rig, a 25' Outrage, which even though it does not have the Whaler Drive, does have a similar Armstrong bracket with the engines set back 26". The Whaler Drive is not designed to support the boat. The entire weight of the boat must be on the actual keel of the hull. You will get used to look of the unsupported WD sxtending beyond the back of the trailer.
There are two Continental galvanized channel frame trailers for your hull.
One of them, is straight frame model CT-9-4472B. I just happen to have this identical trailer under my 21' Ribside Whaler, shown here.
This is an 8'0 wide trailer. Be sure to upgrade to double Stolz 12" roller and ss shafts on all cross members, 14" wheels, and single axle disc brakes. Also specify a 3" x 4" tongue upgrade. With the large extra cost for the rollers, this trailer will cost you about $2200 - $2400
If you want a wider (8'-6") Vee frame trailer, where the boat will sit a little lower, you can order the ETW2044V, about the same price. Same on the wheels and rollers. A friend has a 22' WD on this trailer, so a 20 will be an easy fit.
My preference would be the first trailer mentioned, as I don't like those super-wide trailers.
When you fit the boat to a trailer like this, use a string to set all the keel rollers level, using four SS bolts on each pair of rollers, two resting across the top of the frame which makes it impossible for the rollers to drop down, bring the boat on the trailer, and then snug the bunks up to the hull to prevent side to side rocking. This way all weight will be resting on the rollers. The are of plywood embedded in the boat's transom should be resting on the very back roller.
