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Cost of Repair
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| Whaler13Mark |
Posted on 08/27/08 - 8:51 AM
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I know its hard to give an accurate measurement without seeing the issue in person and knowing the full extent of the repair...what would be a fair estimate? I am awaiting a phone call from a guy out of Titusville, Fl.
Boat is a 1968 Boston Whaler 13' sport
This was a run-in with a log on lake lanier. Previous owner repaired it (presumably incorrectly). A little moisture seeps from the wound (no drops just moisture).
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/MarkMan0415/IMG_0003b.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/MarkMan0415/IMG_0005.jpg
http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f201/MarkMan0415/IMG_0008.jpg
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 08/27/08 - 11:29 AM
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You know that is a very small repair. Is the boat painted or gel-coat? Most fiberglass guys charge between $50 - $75 per labor hour. I would think that is no more than a 2-3 hour job plus paint or gel-coat. If I had to guess based on work I have had done it should be no more than $300 to make it right??? Anyone able to second my guess?
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 08/27/08 - 11:32 AM
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Just a second thought here -- do not let someone bondo the repair. Have it ground out, glassed, faired and painted. You may pay a bit more for the repair but the quality will be worth it. Keep us posted on your quotes and final expense.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 08/27/08 - 11:50 AM
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Welcome Mark -
I agree with Rob.
If the repair quotes are excessive, you could DIY with advice and guidance by the WC members.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| CES |
Posted on 08/27/08 - 12:19 PM
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Grind out the flaked fiberglass and fill it in with some west systems expoxy with cabosol mixed in with it.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| Whaler13Mark |
Posted on 08/28/08 - 7:34 AM
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Thanks for the replies.
So even if the foam behind the repair is saturated its still a simple fix?
Would I have to dig out foam? If I dig out the foam do I have to re-foam?
Sorry for all the questions...never done this before..
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 08/28/08 - 7:48 AM
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Dig out all the wet and replace it with foam plugs or 2 part pour in foam. There is a good example of a WhalerCentral member who did the foam plugs HERE and an example of a foam pour HERE. If you are planning to do the work yourself this is a good ARTICLE to read about Whaler repair.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 08/29/08 - 8:17 AM
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Don't scare him Bob -- if you want to see a repair or two that are major go look at the boats RLWhaler has fixed. The repair you have can be easily fixed by a person that knows glass.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 08/29/08 - 10:35 AM
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I would never estimate a repair like that without seeing what's underneath it.
Although even if you had to rebuild that area it would not be too difficult.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| CES |
Posted on 08/29/08 - 10:46 AM
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Easy job!
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 08/29/08 - 11:27 AM
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CES wrote:
Easy job!
??
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| kamie |
Posted on 08/29/08 - 2:53 PM
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Mark,
That repair would not be too hard to do yourself. Don't worry so much about the wet foam. You need to grind out the damaged gelcoat and fiberglass. Once you start grinding you can tell bad or damaged fiberglass, you want to remove all of it. With that done, you have exposed the foam. No need to dig it out, just let it drip dry, should take a couple days. If in a couple days it's not dry, let it dry a couple more days. Once it's dry and not dripping, time to add fiberglass. Follow the repair article on CW for diging out behind the solid fiberglass so you can tie the old and new togeather. Once the fiberglass is done and sanded, time for gelcoat. For a repair that size you can use a prevel sprayer and do a couple coats. Then wet sand until shiny, wax and your back in business.
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| RLwhaler |
Posted on 09/07/08 - 12:30 PM
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Hello Mark,
Welcome to W/C...and congrats. on your purchase.
I just viewed your pics.,That's a a piece of cake,don't sweat it!
Shoot me an-e-amail with a contact number and i'll take you thru it.
Best,
RL
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| Binkie |
Posted on 09/08/08 - 4:13 AM
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Never use polyester resin over wet or damp foam. It won`t bond. Always use epoxy. In fact always use epoxy for repair work. The additional cost of the materials is worth the strength they provide.
rich
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