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Engine Height - 130 Sport
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| Ric232 |
Posted on 07/19/08 - 4:51 PM
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I finally got the chance to look over the stern at speed today and take a picture. It's rather low quality because I used my cell phone camera, but you can clearly see that my cav plate is buried. This was at 28 - 30 mph with an appropriate amount of positive trim. My motor is mounted at the center hole (out of 5). Judging by the photo, that's obviously too low. Will raising it up reduce smooth water porpoising?
Thanks,
Ric
Ric232 attached the following image:
[59.14Kb]
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| Binkie |
Posted on 07/19/08 - 7:30 PM
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What motor are you running. I would raise it up until it breaks loose in rough water, or rapid acceleration. Should be about 1/2" to 1" above the bottom. Motor height really isn`t a factor in porpoising. Moving your whole interior forward 6" will just about eliminate porpoising in the 13 footer Unfortunately your steering cable may now be too short. . Also mount your gas tanks under the rear thwart or better still the front thwart. Mount the battery under the rear thwart. You will have to mount the thwart on top of the seat clamp to do this, but its more comfortable to drive in this position anyway.
rich
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| burtim |
Posted on 07/19/08 - 7:48 PM
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I have a 2001 Sport 13 with the mercury 40 HP 2 stroke. It has 3 holes and was set up by the dealer with the motor as low as it could go. After playing around I ended up with a 10-3/8" prop with a 13 pitch. I also found it runs best with the motor as high as it can go on the mountings.
Three adults can run up on plane with no problem. It can also do it with four, but they must be average or less build. I can get up on plane with five, only if at least two are young kids. This is with full fuel, anchor in the stowage locker and other equipment on board.
I always get porpoising when I tilt up for speed. That's the limiting factor. I have heard a Stingray or other stabilizer can improve on this. The reports are generally good but some are contradictions to this.
You've got a fun boat. I wish there were others aroud my home.
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 07/20/08 - 3:58 PM
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Your cavitation plate needs to be even with the keel.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 07/20/08 - 4:00 PM
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John -
Can you explain your divergent opinion?
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 07/20/08 - 5:26 PM
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John, I believe your opinion is old school. proven not true.
rich
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| HarleyFXDL |
Posted on 07/20/08 - 5:57 PM
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So where should the cavitation plate be in relation to the keel? I've heard that while under way, you should be able to clearly see the cavitation plate.
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| burtim |
Posted on 07/21/08 - 1:21 PM
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Take a look at this. Somebody sent it to me before I worked on mine.
http://www.veradoclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=137.0
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 07/21/08 - 1:51 PM
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Generally speaking it should never be lower than the keel.
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| CES |
Posted on 07/22/08 - 7:07 AM
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burtim wrote:
Take a look at this. Somebody sent it to me before I worked on mine.
http://www.veradoclub.com/smf/index.php?topic=137.0
Great stuff Burtim!! I think I'll need to raise my motor a notch.....I cannot see my cavitation plate at all when I am at cruise.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| Ric232 |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 2:43 PM
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This photo is running at WOT, 6000 rpm, fully trimmed out on my 2008 130 Sport; stock 14P aluminum prop. The motor has been moved up one hole from the factory mounting so it is one hole down from the highest possible mounting. With the trim tucked all the way under, the AV plate is about 1/4 - 1/2" above the keel. The tell-tale is squirting an uninterrupted stream of water so the cooling must be okay. No ventilation in sharp turns. When I tested the boat with the motor at the highest mounting, the prop would slip in sharp turns unless the trim was fully tucked-in. In reality, the boat would probably perform better at the highest setting but the Boston Whaler rep I was talking to last week was having a cow about the fact that I'd moved it up two holes.
Next step is to figure out which SS prop to put on . . . waiting for Tom to get to get back from his wedding . . . what an inconvenience. 
Ric232 attached the following image:
[94.51Kb]
Edited by Ric232 on 08/16/08 - 3:24 PM |
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| Ric232 |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 2:46 PM
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This one is at 5200 with an "appropriate" level of trim for the speed. Not the best picture angle . . . sorry. But the AV plate is right below the surface.
Ric232 attached the following image:
[95.77Kb]
Edited by Ric232 on 08/16/08 - 3:27 PM |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 3:36 PM
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Ric,
It's my understanding that when you go to the stainless prop, you may well be able to raise it that last hole with no slippage at all as the stainless have far more grip and holding power than the aluminum. It's well worth a try when you get the new stainless on there...
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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| Binkie |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 6:14 PM
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Maybe I missed it but I still don`t know what HP and brand of motor your running. By your pitch that you stated I am surmising it is a 4 stroke 40.
rich
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| Ric232 |
Posted on 08/16/08 - 6:29 PM
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Binkie wrote:
Maybe I missed it but I still don`t know what HP and brand of motor your running. By your pitch that you stated I am surmising it is a 4 stroke 40.
rich
You have surmised correctly. 
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| Ric232 |
Posted on 08/17/08 - 9:36 AM
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Derwd24 wrote:
Ric,
It's my understanding that when you go to the stainless prop, you may well be able to raise it that last hole with no slippage at all as the stainless have far more grip and holding power than the aluminum. It's well worth a try when you get the new stainless on there...
Yes, this can be true for a couple of reasons. Alum props are more likely to have damage or imperfections in them which can promote slippage. Also, SS props have cupped blades more often than aluminum. Unfortunately, my only 3-blade option in Mercury props is a Vengeance which has no (or very little) cupping. I'm also considering a Trophy Sport 4-blade. Not sure if it is cupped but it's less of an issue since 4-blades already provide more grip.
Ric
2008 130 Sport
Merc 40hp 4-stroke |
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| whalersal |
Posted on 08/17/08 - 5:46 PM
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My 130 Sport has its 4 stroke 40hp Merc in the center hole out of five. I think raising it would not be right for my choppy bay, which has a large amount of two and three foot boat wakes sneaking up on you from time to time. My issue was not how to get more speed out of my set up, but rather how to get it to plane at a slower speed.
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| CES |
Posted on 08/17/08 - 6:57 PM
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As a result of this thread, I've raised my engine up about an inch on the transom. Now, when I am WOT, I can see the cavitation plate whereas I could not before. I think I may be getting anout 1 knot more in performance but at least I know the set-up is correct now.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| Ric232 |
Posted on 08/17/08 - 7:52 PM
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I forgot to mention, one of the nice benefits of moving the motor up is reduced steering effort.
Ric
2008 130 Sport
Merc 40hp 4-stroke |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 08/17/08 - 8:44 PM
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I have one more hole to go on my 22' Outrage but am hoping that the new stainless prop may give me the needed stern lift so that it won't be necessary to go up that last hole. I realize your selection of ss props is much more limited for the 40 hp, and I don't know if the same rules would apply for the smaller engines, but that may be a surprising benefit when you get the new stainless on there... Interesting thread, looking forward to seeing your results!
Dave - 1983 Outrage 22 |
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