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Trailer bunks on 18 outrage
Barryg	#1  Posted on 07/11/08 - 7:18 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	I noticed today that the bunks on my trailer have limited positioning because of the drain scupper on the starboard side(drain for sump). Anyone address this or try to change there bunks for a wider and more stable ride?? I geuss I could take the scupper off but the drain hole would be blocked by the bunk. THanks BG
SpongeBob	#2  Posted on 07/11/08 - 7:42 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 80 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/11/05	I have the same problem with my 22' Outrage. The problem is complicated by the fact that I cannot move my bunks. What I plan to do is to remove 1 1/2 to 2 inches on the inside of the starboard bunk about an 1 1/2 deep into the bunk (bunks are 4x10's). I also plan to bevel the bunks to match the deadrise. Jeff
Phil T	#3  Posted on 07/11/08 - 8:05 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Barry - I have read several threads (several years ago) on this same issue. I want to say Kamie (???) had the issue. (My apologies if I am wrong, Kamie ) Moving the bunks is the best solution if possible. SpongeBob's plan sounds like a good one as well. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 07/11/08 - 8:25 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Barry, I have 4 bunks. 2 long and 2 shorter. How many do you have? My outside bunks are just inside of the drain so the drain doesn't touch the bunk. I also have center keel rollers. In my opinion, all Whalers above 15 feet in length should have a trailer setup something similar to the attachment below. Center keel rollers and 4 bunks. Joe Kriz attached the following image: [29.08Kb]
kamie	#5  Posted on 07/12/08 - 4:41 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	I do have an issue with the bunks, that was complicated by the 2x4's glued to the hull bottom. I have difficulty adjusting my bunks as well, and what I have found is my rollers are too low. When I redid my trailer I used U bolts to attach the rollers which means they sit pretty low on the beams. I plan to redo the trailer and use bolts and star washers again and raise the rollers. Once I have done that, and changed the 18 inch roller at the rear to two 12 inch rollers, I plan to setup the bunks like the diagram above, a set of bunks to keep the keel centered on the rollers and then stabilizing bunks as far out as possible.
Barryg	#6  Posted on 07/13/08 - 4:58 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	Jo , thanks for the pic . That looks like a good plan. I received the quote for a new aluminum trailer of $1900 and decided to do some fix up work instead.BG Edited by Barryg on 07/13/08 - 5:01 AM
kamie	#7  Posted on 07/13/08 - 5:04 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	Barry, As long as you can avoid replacing the axle on your current trailer it is probably cheaper to replace the parts such as rollers and such. If you need to start replacing structural parts, the most times a new trailer wins the $$ .
Barryg	#8  Posted on 07/13/08 - 11:09 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	Everythng I take off of this trailer I have to cut it off. You guys in the saltwater realm must have to work hard to keep things in working condition. BG
kamie	#9  Posted on 07/13/08 - 11:51 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	The first round of trailer updating I did, I had to cut off every bolt. Now I just use a lot of PB Blaster. For my rollers, I used SS keel roller pins with cotter pins. Makes getting them off a lot easier. In the spring, once I have launched the boat, I pull them off, stuff some grease inside the rollers and give them a couple good spins. All the galvinized bolts get a dose of Never Seaze when I move them around, other than that, I walk around once a year with WD40. Since I have SureLube hubs, I add grease in the spring once I launch the boat for the first time. I actually trailer a bit more now than I did before, mainly because i pull the boat out when I need gas. I am ontrack to fill up 2 maybe 3 more times this year.
Barryg	#10  Posted on 07/21/08 - 9:19 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	Joe, if you have time can you measure your bunk that is smaller and on the outside. Say from the center of the trailer to the center of the bunk. Thanks BG
HarleyFXDL	#11  Posted on 07/21/08 - 10:40 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 917 Comments: 30 Joined: 07/24/07	Judging from Joe's pic the strength of wood is best when on the side not flat.
Joe Kriz	#12  Posted on 07/21/08 - 10:49 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Barry, The distance from the center of the keel roller to the center of the 2x6 bunk is about 23 inches. In this configuration, it is not necessary to have the bunk on edge. Flat is fine.
Barryg	#13  Posted on 07/21/08 - 11:25 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	Thanks Joe , trying to reconfigure . Is there any rule of thumb about bunk ht.? should all the bunks be the same ht. in reference to the trailer channel ?Thanks BG
Joe Kriz	#14  Posted on 07/21/08 - 12:29 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Barry, Sit down... Relax.... and think about it for a minute..... 1. The hull sits on the keel rollers first. 2. The bunks are then placed at the necessary height for support and keeping the boat level from side to side. And for me, I want the bunks to take a little of the weight because I don't like the boat sliding off the trailer too easily. Ever see a boat slide off the trailer at the ramp before it hit the water.... ???? Ouch..... I haven't done that and I don't want to. How do you do all of the above? Trial and error. I always recommend 4 bunks because you can always pull off 1 bunk completely off to rebuild it or replace brackets, carpet, etc.... Then put the bunk back on and do the next one. If you only have 2 bunks, you cannot do the same thing that easily....