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Folks, I am about to purchase a Whaler Montauk 17........Have 2 that I am deciding between.
1985 Yamaha 90hp with 9.9 Yamaha Kicker and full options and guages, canvas, new electrical wiring and fuel system. Also brand new 2008 Shorelander Trailer. Really nice package. Seller wants 10,800
1986 Evinrude 90hp. Bare Bones with no gauges but complete railing. Older trailer in good shape. Compression just checked and 120/125 across. Carbs rebuilt last season as well. Seller wants 7500
Any suggestions before I make the plunge? I was surprised whaler offered boats w/o even a tach in the 80's. Is it easy to upgrade or can I live without initially?
First time boat purchase, but have wanted a Montauk for years and want to do it right first time around. Any insight would be a big help. I look forward to spending more time on here soon
My ten cents worth (or nickles worth) would be look at the cheaper boat and estimate what you need to spend on it as it could quickly come up to the same price as the more expensive one....then add the price of the extra's the more expensive one has ie 9.9hp outboard, cover (I just priced one for a 17' which was $1000 USD);, guages etc.... and then see what your getting for your dollars...
In my experience most of the time your buying a motor and trailer and the boat is "thrown" in....
As meridian says the motor for me would be the deciding factor as that would be your biggest expense...
I think I agree with both replies. I purchased a 1989 with a 2002 Merc last August. The boat had only a tach (that wasn't working correctly), no electronics, no canvas and a terrible wiring job (that I did over this year-see my personal page).
Costs for a tach could be $50-$100 and you probably could get by without it for the first year but it's nice to have (just don't plan to run it at top speed without a tach. Other instruments could be $50+ each. A bimini could cost anywhere between $300 (for Sunbrella with aluminum frames); to $500 for Sunbrella with SS frames; to $800 to $900 for a Mills top. My wiring job probably cost me around $100 for wire, connectors, shrink tubing but not including the three instruments.
But the motor is the big unknown. You could probably pay $7,000 to $9,000 for a new one if you need it so be as sure as you can that any motor you buy is ok. Do a search through the old discussion areas on this site for repairs and maintenance/engines to see the kinds of things that can go wrong.
As Blannie says the things that you will want to buy to get the boat to where you want it may help make the decision for you. I was just as happy buying a boat for less money without all the stuff so I could buy new electronics and canvas that I wanted.
Thanks Guys. Overall though I am told that Yamaha makes the most durable longest lasting 2 cycle outboards. Does that seem right?
I believe that the boat I am going to see is owned by a member of this board as well since I saw it on the classifieds here. I feel much more comfortable with this in mind.
Regardless of compression checks and brand of motor, any that are over 20 years old are bound to have hidden problems that will surface sooner or later. I would compare them at face value for the boat alone, forgetting about the motor and if there is no a lot of difference I would go with the lower price. You WILL have to replace the motor on either of them in the very near future so that additional $2500 difference could be aimed at a newer motor. Just my opinion
I have a 17 with a 90 yamie, 1989 model, almost identical to the one your considering. These are well designed very durable engines and they are very light... Lightest made, still made today... Although I doubt it will see the 2009 model year...
I have good experience with Yamies, (2nd one) and Mercs (had 4 of those), not much recent experience with OMC's (over the past 20 years)
The Yamie is easy to maintain and for the most part, parts are still available, very important... Parts are also available on ebay for all MFG's. The engines made in the mid/late 80's were the second generation of 2 cylce OB's, oil injection was the "big thing" that made these engines more civilized. All MFG's had solid tested designs. A 20 year engine is old but that is considered the normal life span for an OB, if taken care of, it will run much longer.
The difference in price between the boats is significant... $3K can buy a lot of upgrades and minor repairs. Not to mention you will have it the way you want it...
Tough descion...
Edited by joninnj on 07/02/08 - 7:54 PM
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!!
Which one is in better shape? Wood, gellcoat, bottom paint or not, these are all things I would be considering. Does one look like it has been cared for more than the other? A classic montauk with original power even with all the extras will only bring so much money. A really clean stripped down montauk may bring more than one that has all the extras but looks kinda beat. As far as old power goes, you'd be amazed at how long on old 2 stroke will last. A childhood friend of mine still has his montauk from when we were kids. Boat still has the same motor from the early 80s. We would be out in that thing all day, every day from april to september. It still runs like a champ to this day. My montauk has the original 89 merc on it and she runs great. My Outrage 25 has 88 twin yamaha 200s on it and she runs great. All these motors will not last forever but do'nt be supprised if they last alot longer than you think.
Ed,
Montauks are day boats. IMHO, they should be set up lean, neat and efficient. In order of importance, I suggest a marine radio, fishfinder/GPS, a compass, and a tachometer with engine lights.
That Evinrude 90 is probably the V block that has been around forever. A little thirsty, but reliable as heck. I have a Montauk now with a 1990 90HP V block that we bored, changed pistons, rings, pumps, lines, etc, basically a total motor rebuild. This option is available to you as well and probably for under $2K. Do that, and it's almost like having a new motor. You actually have to do a ten hour break in on this. Could do that to the Yamaha as well, point being that these motors can be refreshed at a reasonable cost. Either one is probably acceptable.
Are both hulls in the same general shape? That's the key question. Are there cracks, repairs or obvious injuries to either one? Do you have the ability to weigh them?
Motors are a dime a dozen Ed. Concentrate on getting a good hull. Ask where it was stored, if it was covered, was it in the water all the time, was it banged up and fixed, etc.
Honestly, none of us are commercial fisherman. We're going to use these boats occasionally, and nowhere near out to the limits of their endurance. You will find that most owners of these Whalers share a common desire to keep them up. Unless you find an exception to that rule, these have probably not been abused. That said, if the less expensive one has a good hull, buy that. You'll have $3K to use then for whatever. Just try and make sure it is not waterlogged.
Best of Luck,
Grady
1. The 1985 has a 9.9 kicker and you say full canvas.
If the canvas is Mills, then the canvas is a major plus. If it isn't Mills, then not much as far as I am concerned.
2. The 1986 probably has the better console in most peoples opinions. http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=58
I have the 1985 console and always preferred the 1986 to 1989.
Tachs are cheap so this shouldn't be a concern. Boston Whaler did not rig the boats with motors back then, this was left up to the dealer and of course what the new owner wanted installed.
Here are some questions for you.
1. Are you really going to need or use the canvas?
The canvas on a Montauk makes it very tight to get around the boat.
2. What type of outboard motor dealer do you have close to you?
A good reputable mechanic is important for the brand of engine you choose.
Like others have said above, the hull and interior is probably the most important although a new trailer and full canvas along with a 9.9 kicker is real attractive if the hull is in the same condition or better than the other.
Good Luck with your decision and keep us informed.
Ok lost the higher priced boat on the spot to another buyer, oh well.
Put deposit on the 86 with the 88 Evinrude and will sea trial on Monday next week. Price 7k assuming everything goes as planned. Older Pate tank is leaking, but owner may be able to warranty it or I will use two smaller tanks
Hull condition is great, lean and mean without holes drilled all over the console and hull for electrics or trolling motors etc. Never had a bimini top or any other canvas installed. Has older solid condition bottom paint and zero srapes on hull other than trailer tub for launching etc. Boat was not kept in the water.
Here are my observations.
Gelcoat is nice some minor spider cracks on the inside.
Wiring is not hacked up and original ( has no guages, which helps)
Steering cable still has original safety tag on it
Overall condition inside the console looks original and ontouched
Fuel and Electrical Lines throughout boat are old, but not damaged from what I could tell. Still incased and wrapped together
Engine looks like hell, mainly due to rust on the iron hinges from salt water over the years. VRO systems still works
One issue as per the owner with engine is that is does not always idle well, sometime cuts out. It is not a problem in gear, just in neutral. I'm thinking some seafoam could cure that ( worked wonders on my jeep)
Trailer is late 80's vintage galvanized with bunks and boat weight resting on the keel rollers in center. Tires are newer no dry rot. Would want to repack the bearing though before road trips. Other than that it is not a piece of crap like other undersized units I have seen Whalers for sale on.
Also compression is 120-125 range as per test last week
Hope this all works out and I feel this is a fair deal compared to other whalers I have seen for sale in far worse hull and structure condition.
Any insight into the engine points/weaknesses will help out greatly
Great Website----------Enjoy the long weekend on the water
