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Mooring Advice
gerobertson1	#1  Posted on 06/30/08 - 2:42 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 65 Comments: 0 Joined: 05/06/08	I am looking to make my own mooring that will be able to hold at most a 3000lbs boat. Anyone that has experience or advice in this area would be very helpful. What I do know is the you should use the formula Length x Beam x 4 = Mooring Weight. The mooring will be on a lake in a cove with the bottom made up of silt.
TBRYAN5	#2  Posted on 06/30/08 - 6:44 PM
Member Posts: 1 Comments: 0 Joined: 03/23/07	Gerobertson1, I'm not familiar with specific formulas for calculating the weight of an "anchor"/device, but it seems that you would end up with a very heavy weight that would be difficult to haul out to your target, relocate, or haul out if needed. I have moored 17-22' boats (2000-4000#) on a lake in in upsate NY for many years. The bottom there is mostly sand and rocks with some softer silt the deeper you go out -- so probably similar to what you're dealing with. I believe you can get away with less weight, especially if the bottom is silty, as whatever you put down will bury itself in time and become very solid. With varying degrees of success, I have seen neighbors use automotive engine blocks, pieces of steel track from a bulldozer, outboard motors, etc. I use a combination of objects, including a solid iron block (about 18"x7" and about 75#) and two old concrete guard rail posts (maybe 60# each). I would think a single 150-200# mushroom anchor would also do as well or better. In general, the denser the material the better. A heavy object with a small footprint will bury itself quickly, and you can chain two or three objects together to add drag protection should your main anchor become dislodged.
pjred71	#3  Posted on 06/30/08 - 7:18 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 81 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/21/06	We use the same techniques that TBrian describes here on Lake Erie. A group of three items chained together in a triangle works great. The key is using a chain all the way to the bow eye- no rope. In my situation, 3' of water, the 3/8 chain 25' long reduces the amount of energy pulling directly on the anchor system when the rollers start to come in. Edited by pjred71 on 06/30/08 - 7:20 PM
pjred71	#4  Posted on 06/30/08 - 7:31 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 81 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/21/06	I just ran the formula length X beam X 4= mooring weight. My boat at roughly 18X7X4= 504. No way I have that much weight in my mooring. Maybe 150 at most. Never had it move. Sandy bottom. I think the bow eye would come out before it dragged.
Barryg	#5  Posted on 06/30/08 - 7:41 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 242 Comments: 1 Joined: 04/01/08	We would have a nice pile of sand . Then dig out the shape you wanted(bowl shaped). Place a piece of rebar in the center with a loop bent in it for the chain. Then poor the concrete . quick and cost effective. BG
dburr	#6  Posted on 06/30/08 - 8:54 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 15 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/15/08	Over mud/silt I have seen 1" steel plate about 2' square with 3/4" roundbar bent for a staple on the top and a number of angle iron feet sticking out the bottom. Just make sure it lands where you want it 'cause the suction formed by the mud/silt will never let it go and the feet keep it from dragging. Kind of a one shot deal. You could also use a granite block with either a hole for the pennant or a staple. Unless they drop the level of the lake in the fall about the only time it would be moderately easy to set that is through the ice in the winter.. In a previous life we used to set rocks about once a summer. Easy to do when you can work with a tide. Biggest one done with the Old Man's Outrage was 1-1/2 tons (that's what was paid for). Real exciting when you cut the hanging bridle... Dave
MW	#7  Posted on 07/01/08 - 2:05 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1827 Comments: 10 Joined: 01/08/06	Engine Blocks are popular here ! mw
egerrity	#8  Posted on 07/01/08 - 6:12 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 439 Comments: 2 Joined: 07/11/07	From my old days working with some moorings the most important part was to use a heavier chain toward the bottom and a bit lighter toward the top.. the heavier chain will keep the mushroon laying down. Use 5-7 times the depth if your in an area prone to heavy wind. I disagree with the chain to the bow eye. You need to have the chain come to a bouy and them have 2 lines to the boat...one to the boy eye and one to the cleat at safety. The bouy acts like a shock obsorber. I woud say a 150 -200 lb mushroom with some heavy chain would be more than enough. Ed 1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP
Derwd24	#9  Posted on 07/01/08 - 6:50 AM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	We used a 200 lb mushroom with the heavy chain all the way up to the buoy (seasoned shop owner recommended this as he says the swivel link that goes between the heavy and light chain can be a weak point). Worked like a charm in the open ocean off the beach, and we had some days when it was really rolling. We were moored in 20' of water and used 40' of chain per his recommendations with no issues what so ever. Dave - 1983 Outrage 22