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Removing Logo
gerobertson1
#1 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 8:45 AM
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I am finally getting the Whaler out of the garage and on the water this weekend. I figured this is the only place that I could get share my excitement and people would care!

I have got my new whaler logos in one hand and the keys in the other.

Does anyone have any tips for removing the old logos? I figured carefully using a razor blade with some warm heat might do the trick, but I could be wrong!

Hopefully the time I spend on the Logos will give the battery a good charge and I will be ready to rock for one last season before the big winter over haul.

Have a great weekend all!

 
egerrity
#2 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 8:49 AM
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When I changed mine most of them pealed right off... In pieces but they peeled right off. Other parts had to be heat with a head gun and they peeled right off. No razor blade.
Then I used 3M adhesive remover to get rid of all the goo.



Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP
 
Blue_Northern
#3 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 10:38 AM
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Same with mine -- they came off fairly complete and easy. Be sure to use a good pure acetone to clean the area before placing the new ones. Once mine were on I waxed and buffed right over them.


Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion
 
Grady95
#4 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 12:12 PM
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Moderate use of a heat gun and scrape with one of those white or yellow plastic putty knives. This will not do any damage to the surface at all. Personally, I use lacquer thinner to clean up any residual adhesive.
Good luck dunking her in. I don't know anymore whether it's more fun to use them or restore them, but anyway, have a ball!
Grady

 
Bob Moravek
#5 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 12:12 PM
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Heat and adhesive remover are the first steps. A trick I learned was to round
off/file the corners of the scrapper or razor blades to avoid gouging the
surface when you are scrapping off the the old stickers.
After you have the old ones totally removed its best to compound or wet
sand (with ultra-fine paper) to remove the "ghost" from the years of sun-bleaching.
Then when the new ones are in place wax over the entire area.

Changing the logo's really brightens up your top-sides.

 
Joe Kriz
#6 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 12:20 PM
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gerobertson1,

Before you put the logos on, are you sure they are the correct logos?

I see many being sold that the Boston is facing the wrong way on one of the decals.
Make sure they look like these and they should also have the ® at the front bottom of the decal.
http://www.whalercentral.com/photogal...hoto_id=48


 
egerrity
#7 Print Post
Posted on 06/26/08 - 1:02 PM
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Great point Joe
I have seen alot of bad decals out there. especially on Ebay.


Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP
 
Josey Whaler
#8 Print Post
Posted on 06/28/08 - 6:28 AM
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Grady95 has the ticket. I removed all the logos and striping on my Temptation. 20 year old stuff. Light to moderate heat and a plastic puddy knife. Goo Gone for the leftover residue.

 
MW
#9 Print Post
Posted on 06/28/08 - 8:06 AM
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I use 100% silicone spray (hrdwr. store) and a dull scraper, silicone melts the glue, when the glue is gone, then wash the sticker area with a rag soaked in acetone, then I rinse again with a rag soaked in vinegar & water. A trick I used to place self-adhesive decal's on car's "perfectly" was to wet the cleaned up area with a mixture of "Dawn" dish soap and water in a spray bottle. Wet the entire area, your hand's, finger's and the sticky part of the decal too, keep everything wet with the soapy/water mixture, then place the decal where you want it, "ooop's wrong place or crooked" ? NOT a problem as you can still move the decal to where you want it, once it's "perfect", walk away. In a few hours the soap/water mixture has dried, so has the glue on the decal back, and it's there to stay "perfect". Wink hope this helps
mw

 
Derwd24
#10 Print Post
Posted on 06/28/08 - 8:43 AM
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Interesting instructions MW! Wondering, can you squeegy it at that last point to help adhesion or would it move around? Got a new set ready to go myself...


Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
 
MW
#11 Print Post
Posted on 06/28/08 - 11:00 AM
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I have NOT tried it with the whaler logo yet, you should'nt have to squwee gee anything out, as the adhesive property of the water hold's it in place, it dries, the adhesive property of the "Pressure Sensative" glue, will make contact and stick. The trick is to keep spraying everything really wet with the soap and water mixure, finger tips, hand's, area to be applied, decal, glue, so you can move it around, like I said, I have NOT tried this with the whaler logo yet but, it worked on the letter's being applied on the side skirt's and rear bumber of one of my cars. I have replaced the B/W logo on my boat years ago but, I used the "Hail Mary" technique (ya got 1 shot, pray ya don't screw it up). Don't worry if both sides are not "Perfect", like with "pin striping", you can ONLY see one side at a time, as long as it's "Close" nobody will notice, what people DO notice, is the wrong sized decal for the Hull size, or an "After market" one on e-bay that's "NOT" the right "B/W Logo", it look's "Tacky" on a "Classy" hull.
mw


Edited by MW on 06/28/08 - 11:11 AM
 
billybhoy10
#12 Print Post
Posted on 10/23/11 - 1:39 AM
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Heat gun and scraper to remove the striping; acetone, on a rag or mild scotch brite pad removes the glue residue. Buy an orbital sander/polishing machine [porter is excellent] with a range of finishing and polishing pads. Get yourself a selection of 3m finishing pasts - various grades, and practice on your paintwork. You'll be amazed at the results. Just don't go too fast on the speed selector of the polisher until you're used to it and keep it moving.

A great trick is to buy some oxalic acid, follow the instructions, and use it to remove the oxidation off the paint. It' superb for removing the grime, rust stains and etc. Gas mask and gloves required. Saves a load of 'cutting back' with the sander....

 
mreid99
#13 Print Post
Posted on 10/23/11 - 5:38 AM
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Moderate use of a heat gun, be very careful with a heat gun, I have let it sit a little too long on an old Mckee and got first hand knowledge how good those guns are.

 
Phil T
#14 Print Post
Posted on 10/23/11 - 5:57 AM
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I prefer a hair dryer- less chance melting the vinyl or burning yourself and a plastic putty knife- will not gouge gel coat.


1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
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