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Outrage or Revenge 22' owners-Rear Fishwell
Joe Kriz	#1  Posted on 04/24/06 - 11:51 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	As most of you know I have just picked up my 1989 Outrage 22' Cuddy. I have a question about the center rear hatch... What is supposed to be in there? Anything? There are six screw holes around the center opening. It looks like some kind of plate was originally there to cover the cavity in the center. The opening is about 6 inches wide and extends fore and aft the length of the entire opening. How does the water get out? Do any of you put in a bilge pump in there? There is an opening on the port side of the hole to accommodate wiring and a bilge hose. How is yours setup? I am really interested in what was in there originally but will take all ideas into consideration. Here is a photo of what mine looks like. (the shadow at the right of the photo makes it look like another hole but it is not. Just the center has the deeper cavity. [img]http://users.sisqtel.net/jkriz/Outrage22/rear_hatch.jpg[/img] Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/26/06 - 9:40 AM
Jeff	#2  Posted on 04/24/06 - 2:27 PM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	Wow, Joe this one seems crazy to me. You need to contact John Flook. He, Peter, and I talked about this for some time. Peter and I have a completely different type of locker than you and John Flook. However, I think his has atleast one Thru Hull to drain it. I know he has aot of pictures but not on his site. Here is a Picture of mine [img]http://www.whalercentral.com/IMAGES/22%20outrage%20Floor%20repair%20small_files/image052.jpg[/img] Johns Site http://www.geocities.com/j_flook/m/j_flook/ Edited by Jeff on 04/24/06 - 2:36 PM 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Doug V	#3  Posted on 04/25/06 - 4:44 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 340 Comments: 3 Joined: 09/21/05	Joe, I have the same well design as yours. There is a pump and auto switch installed in the sump. My brother in law's 25 Outrage has a plastic cover over most of the sump, with a similar pump and float switch. His pump setup looks original. Mine is missing the plastic cover. The screw holes along the top of the lower sump are for securing the plastic cover. Doug Vazquez
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 04/25/06 - 2:10 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Doug, Can you get some photos of yours and his boats? Please.... How thick is the plastic cover... or is it starboard? I plan on putting a Rule-Mate 750 in the fish box that has the built in float switch... Rule-Mate 750 or maybe the 1100 Rule-Mate Rule-Mate 1100 Thanks for the info Doug and Jeff
andygere	#5  Posted on 04/25/06 - 10:09 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 11 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/05	Joe, My well was as yours is when I got the boat, but with parts donated by John Flook and Jim Potdevin, I've restored mine to the factory configuration. A Mayfair 500 gpm pump is screwed to the bottom of the lower stern sump. This is controlled by a CH switch on the console labeled "aerator". The discharge line goes up to a T, mounted with plastic brackets near the top of the well, on the aft wall. There are plastic ball valves on either side of the T. On the Starboard side, there is a perforated plastic tube, about 6 inches long. On the port side, the plastic fitting connects to a discharge line,that crosses the port stern sump, and exits via a plastic through hull on the side of the boat. This whole setup has a label that says "Basspirator". There is a thin perforated plastic cover that mounts on the floor of the stern well and up the back side. The following pictures tell the story. Note that the original perforations were quite small, perhaps 3/16 inch, and were just small enough to let anchovy scales go through and clog the strainer on the Mayfair pump. To solve this problem, I glued plastic window screen on the bottom of the sump, and sealed the top with foam and silicone to keep debris from washing over and clogging the pump. This only caused more problems since the holes would clog with scales or muck, and then the entire well would refuse to drain. Now I've enlarged them quite a bit, and put new screen on the back. We'll see how this works. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40...G_1453.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40...G_1454.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40...G_1452.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40...G_1455.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40...G_1456.jpg Here's the whole deal with the cover installed. I think the larger holes will provide enough area for the water to drain down to the pump sump. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v40...G_1457.jpg [IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v408/andygere/Whaler%20details/IMG_1457.jpg[/IMG]
andygere	#6  Posted on 04/26/06 - 8:40 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 11 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/05	I forgot to explain how it works. To use the system as a live well or bait tank, close the port ball valve, fill the well with water and open the starboard ball valve. In this mode, the pump recirculates the water, providing a bit of aeration as it cascades back in from the little perforated header pipe. To drain the well, close the starboard ball valve and open the port ball valve, and the pump discharges overboard via the through-hull fitting.
Joe Kriz	#7  Posted on 04/26/06 - 9:30 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Great photos and info Andy... Thanks... I'll have to start looking for and gathering up some parts that will work. I have nothing in there now except the hose that comes from the port thru-hull fitting. The hardest piece to find looks like the plastic cover with the holes that covers the sump. I also have a "Livewell" switch on the starboard side of the console. Must not be original. I will take a photo later today and post it here.
andygere	#8  Posted on 04/26/06 - 2:52 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 11 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/05	Joe, If you can't find the plastic cover, you certainly could have a replica made. It appears that it was made from flat stock, and the 90 degree bend made by using some heat. An outfit like Tap Plastics could probably do it. A trick mod would be to make it clear, so you could see if there was material accumulating below. For reference, the plastic seems to be about the same as that used for the below-gunwale covers adjacent to the fuel fill. Alternatively, you could make it from fiberglass, and color it with desert tan gelcoat. More work, but the color would be spot on. Since this system did not work that well in it's original configuration, you may be able to find the parts as I did. The Basspirator system in a different configuration still shows up in Cabela's catalog, but I haven't gone as far as contacting Mayfair to see if they still make all the parts used in the Whaler. One of my ball valves is broken, and I've repaired it but would prefer an new unit if I could find one. Mayfair pumps are made by Johnson Pump Company.
Jeff	#9  Posted on 04/26/06 - 4:48 PM
Member Posts: 1987 Comments: 34 Joined: 04/02/05	Guys, The name of that plastic is Kydex and is a little difficult to find but, if you know of a really good plastic company they should be able to source it for you. http://www.kydex.com/Products/Texture...Colors.asp There is also a product sign makers use called sintra that mimics that plastic. It is able to be machined, cut on a table saw, and bent with heat just like the Kydex. It is a little cheaper but not as strong. It is also able to be used in high UV areas. Just an FYI. http://store.foamboardsource.com/sint...-pvc-.html 1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive
Doug V	#10  Posted on 04/26/06 - 8:34 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 340 Comments: 3 Joined: 09/21/05	Joe, My brother-in-law's set up is very similar to Andy's. The pump brand name is not the same- I believe the pump is a Rule. The ball valves and the areator, if memory serves, are nearly the same. My boat is missing the areator and both covers, but both ball valves are in place. It does not seem to be a very good set up for a live well, except for the fact that it takes up no deck space (a large plus). I would like it a lot better if there were a drain, as in Jeff's boat. The drain tube of boats of Jeff's vintage must be rather long. I wonder if some problems with the long drain tube, either during construction of the boat, or during the warranty period prompted the design change. After viewing Andy's pictures, would you still like to see our boat's wells? If so, I would be happy to take a couple pictures and post them. Doug Vazquez
andygere	#11  Posted on 04/27/06 - 8:50 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 11 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/15/05	As a true live well, this set up is marginal. It will keep anchovies alive for a while, longer if you change the water out regularly. It would not be terribly difficult to reconfigure the system to have an external fill from a transom mounted pump. If both pumps have approximately the same output, the water could be continuously changed. I don't fish with bait all that often, but when I run across a big baitball and want to jig a few up, it's a nice solution. I have a big portable bait tank that I've never rigged, but that would be the better solution for serious bait fishing.
Joe Kriz	#12  Posted on 04/28/06 - 9:48 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Thanks for the info everyone. Doug, I would be interested in photos of the ball valves and how they are set up... Close up shots if you can get them... Don't take them out of the boat to do it though unless you are going to take them out anyway.
Doug V	#13  Posted on 04/29/06 - 12:06 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 340 Comments: 3 Joined: 09/21/05	Joe, I will get a picture of my ball valve configuration. I will try to get a picture of Matt's (bro-in-law) too, but it may not be this weekend. I will be launching my boat this weekend, the first time since Thankgiving weekend! Doug
Doug V	#14  Posted on 04/29/06 - 10:19 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 340 Comments: 3 Joined: 09/21/05	Joe, Here are the pictures of my stern well/pump/ball valve configuration- http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d97...nwell2.jpg http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d97...nwell1.jpg I hope this helps. By the way, in an earlier post of mine in this thread I stated that I believe my boat was equipped with the folding stern seat originally. I forgot that I had determined that the original configuration was the full stern seat. The screw holes in the deck, in the smooth border just outside the sternwell match pictures I have seen in catalogs. Just thought I should straighten that item out. Doug Vazquez
Joe Kriz	#15  Posted on 04/30/06 - 12:01 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Doug, Thanks for the photos. I think anyone should be able to come up with a way to rig there Aerator back to somewhat original between yours and Andy's photos. I like the idea of clear plastic for the cover so you can see what is down in the sump. I think I will put some holes in it like Andy did. I will probably not use mine as a live bait well but rather a fish locker... Although the fish I catch are probably going to be too big to fit in that locker..... Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/30/06 - 12:02 PM
wwbach	#16  Posted on 05/03/06 - 2:47 PM
Member Posts: 6 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/08/05	Doug V wrote: The drain tube of boats of Jeff's vintage must be rather long. I wonder if some problems with the long drain tube, either during construction of the boat, or during the warranty period prompted the design change. Doug, That drain tube on Jeff's boat only goes into the splash well. It isn't that long. There is another from the splashwell through the transom. My '86 22 OR has the same configuration. -- Bud
Doug V	#17  Posted on 05/03/06 - 8:57 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 340 Comments: 3 Joined: 09/21/05	wwbach, That makes sense. I probably would have known that if I had studied the owners manual I downloaded some time ago more closely. I like the idea of a drain out of that well. On the other hand, I like the full splash well too. I wonder if the design could have accomdated both features? Thanks, Doug Vazquez