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replacement keel rollers position?
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| mtlbigfish |
Posted on 05/07/08 - 10:19 PM
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I am replacing my keel rollers on my 22 outrage trailer...should the keel rollers be touching the hull? space between the hull and keel? I can't tell from my original ones because they are cracked in half and I do not quite remember how they were positioned prior to the usage and breakage
I have a double bunk tandem axle trailer with 4 roller keels to replace.
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| joninnj |
Posted on 05/08/08 - 5:32 AM
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Hi Mtbigfish
Absolutely, the keel rollers should touching... As a matter of fact most of the weight should be on those rollers. The Keel is the strongest part of the hull and is designed to support the weight. Not to mention how much easier it is roll the boat off the trailer when most of the support is on the keel. If the weight is on the bunks this can be difficult.
Good luck
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!! |
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| egerrity |
Posted on 05/08/08 - 7:00 AM
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Thats good info .. looks like mine need to be adjusted. Very hard to get boat off when the bunks are dry. Alittle more weight on the keel will help me.
Ed
1991 Montauk 17 - 2012 ETEC 90HP |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/08/08 - 8:04 AM
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Jon is right on the mark. We bought a new bunk trailer last spring for our 83 Outrage 22 and had to add the rollers afterwards as they don't come standard anymore (on the brand we bought anyway). So on each cross brace, I put 2 rollers to better hold the weight, one on the front of the brace and one on the back, it worked great and I'd recommend the double roller set up.
I used this article as a guide to making adjustments, though I didn't launch the boat as recommended. I set up the rollers level under the keel to where they were just touching, then lowered the bunks so that most of the weight was on the rollers and the bunks just provided latteral stability. Give it a read: Article
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| Phil T |
Posted on 05/08/08 - 10:24 AM
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The key technique is to install the rollers so the boat is sitting on all of them, then install the bunks. If the boat is on the trailer, jack the boat up in the back and then the front. Once the rollers are done, then adjust the bunks. Strapping down the stern to the trailer and tightening the bow stop fully should hold the boat steady. Once the bunk is touching, tighten one bracket so she stays. Repeat with other end. Give the bottom of each bracket a wack (up) with a hammer then tighten fully.
When backed in the the water, I can push my Outrage 17 off the trailer from the bow without much effort. Link to trailer photo
Edited by Phil T on 05/08/08 - 10:31 AM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/08/08 - 10:59 AM
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Phil, did you mean adjust the bunks as opposed to install the bunks?
Unless you're at the lowest point of adjustment on the bunk height now, the method I describe above eliminates the need to jack up the boat, and ensures that all the rollers are in contact with the contour of the keel before the bunks are lowered and the rollers take most of the weight. If the bunks are all the way down with no more left, you've got to jack it or launch it first...
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| Phil T |
Posted on 05/08/08 - 3:09 PM
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Ooppps. Yes, I did intend to write adjust. Thanks for catching that! And yes, that is a good technique too.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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