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Flaring tools for drains
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| joninnj |
Posted on 05/05/08 - 4:01 AM
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Hi All,
I noticed that my tubes in the well are starting to deteriorate. I would like to replace them. I assume that this is a straight forward project provided I have all the tools...
I will note the 17 hulls have a very tight area around the tubes in the well.
I noticed an article on this forum about replacement. I do recall the article mentioning where to get the flaring tool? How about to the brass tubes? Twin Cities as well? Has anyone noticed this being sold as a kit?
Any suggestions?
Thx
Edited by joninnj on 05/05/08 - 4:13 AM
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!! |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 05/05/08 - 7:39 AM
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Hamilton Marine (www.hamiltonmarine.com) sells the tool and tubes in various sizes and lengths. The kits I saw there don't come with tubes that are long enough so I wouldn't get it.
I presume the article you are referring to is this http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=42
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| PaulTarwater |
Posted on 05/05/08 - 8:59 PM
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I got my flanging tool at Hamilton Marine (best price I found at $28) and the tubes from Sue at Twin Cities. It is indeed a straightforward project. I used 3M 4200 for sealant. Be sure you anneal the end so it wont split. Paul
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| joninnj |
Posted on 05/06/08 - 3:46 AM
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Thanks everyone,
What makes this a tad more difficult is the anneal process with an air hammer. I do not have one and will never have a use for one. Which means I need to buy one, bowwow are rent one if I can find it.
Has any one tried any other methods in lieu of the air hammer?
Thx
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!! |
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 05/06/08 - 6:45 AM
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The flaring tool does not require the use of an air hammer. That was created by a member to make the job easier. The flaring tool is tightened by wrench and has the same affect it is just the manual process. There is one for sale on WhalerMall.com right now -- you may want to call around as your 17 ft will not have use for the longer threaded extension he is offering to include with the sale.
Check it out Flaring Tool on WhalerMall
Good Luck!
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| Derwd24 |
Posted on 05/06/08 - 7:52 AM
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I didn't think I'd want to go the air hammer route either, but found one at the Home Depot for $15 and it did the job great. Plus I bought unflared straight lengths of tubes (had to do 8 on my hull) and am not sure how I would have got the flare on one end without it. I'd read that trying to flare both ends at the same time with the tube in place can be quite difficult. Check your local store and I think you'll be surprised at how inexpensive they are, and glad in the end that you got it (unless you're planning to get pre-flared). But it makes short work of it.
Either way though I think annealing is recommended to make the curling easier and keeps the tube from splitting. Good luck!
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| Blue_Northern |
Posted on 05/06/08 - 8:25 AM
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joninnj - If you have a compressor you may want to investigate the air tool option. If not than your "$15" tool just cost you about $300. If no compressor find the tubes that are pre-rolled at one end. Derwd24 made a very good point of getting both ends flared at the same time.
Rob
1973 Outrage/Lo-Pro Conversion |
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| joninnj |
Posted on 05/07/08 - 4:49 AM
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Thanks everyone,
Funny how a simple project can turn in to a huge effort without the right tools. I am also thinking of using PVC. No flare with this. Has anyone had experience with PVC? Once this is sealed in I doubt is will ever come out. The drains in the well are the primary culprits. If do the Drain in the bilge that will need to be brass.
thx
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!! |
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| drandlett |
Posted on 05/07/08 - 9:46 AM
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Jon,
I am sure this is a cardinal sin, so folks please dont beat me up... but I was fed up with the drain plug in my BW and really did not feel I'd get a good seal again. I ended up pulling out the broken tube, foamed the hole and glassed both ends of the hole.
I always have a bilge pump, and always left the drain hole plugged, so really there is no difference in my operation. I have yet to regret my decision.
Goodluck.
Dana
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| kamie |
Posted on 05/07/08 - 10:03 AM
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It's a lot simpler than this thread is making it out to be.
The Air Hammer version was created by Tom Clark. He is a master at using it and if you do a lot either for yourself or friends it might be worth it.
Jon, anneal is the process of heating the metal so it becomes easier to bend. You don't do this with the air hammer, you use a torch. You have to do this step if you use the manual or air based tool.
to make the first flare, cut the tube long, and the put it into the flaring tool with one of the die's reversed so the flat side is toward the brass tube. Clamp down with the flaring tool and you have one side nicely flared.
Don't try to flare both ends at the same time, it won't work out and you will get really frustrated.
Drain Tube Replacement
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