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Bow Light Wires
Gary Sr	#1  Posted on 01/31/08 - 12:23 PM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/17/07	1991 Outrage 17'. Anyone know how the bow light wires are run? Do they terminate in the stern and then run to the console switch? Are they run under the rub rail and terminate at the stern? Do they run Port or Starboard side?
Joe Kriz	#2  Posted on 01/31/08 - 12:44 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Gary, 1. The wires run from the switch down thru the rigging tunnel to the stern light. From the stern light, they go thru the hull into the rub rail and then to the bow. Or, 2. The wires run from the switch to the starboard side in a side tunnel. From there, one set of wires go to the stern and the other set goes thru the hull and under the rub rail up to the bow. I would suggest you follow the stern light wires and see how they are routed to the switch.
Gary Sr	#3  Posted on 01/31/08 - 2:54 PM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/17/07	Joe, Thank you for such a quick reply. Someone cut the wires at the stern and removed the stern light. Since my thread I took another look at the inner wall starboard side stern. There is a 3/8" hole with a pair of wires hidden inside. Needle nose pliers were able to get the wires just 1/16" outside of the hole. It is my understanding that the black and grey wires are the bow light wires. I don't have any idea how to crimp new wires to these short ends without making a much larger hole to work through. I really hate to cut and patch. Ideas????
Phil T	#4  Posted on 01/31/08 - 3:42 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Gary - We both have the same boat. My wires on on the starboard side. Consider pulling off the black insert portion of the rub rail from the stern until you get to the wires. I "think" you would be able to use butt connectors (shrink type) there and then run the wire through the hole. Reinstall the insert into the rail. Given the temperature, you will need a hair dryer to warm up the insert. I will take some time. My boat had the bow wires run back and through to the stern seat compartment. There was a butt splice 2" inside of the grommet and both wires ran up the tunnel to the switch. Both stern light wires run to the console as well. Coming from a Montauk, I don't see why you couldn't install a small covered buss bar and connect both the bow and stern wires to the bar. From the bar, there could be a single set of wires that ran to the console. I agree the space to work under the seat is really hard. Edited by Phil T on 01/31/08 - 3:44 PM 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
floatinghat	#5  Posted on 01/31/08 - 6:04 PM
Member Posts: 3 Comments: 0 Joined: 07/17/07	I haven't looked at my bow lite issue yet, but could you solder an "extension" wire on too give you enough room to work? I would then insulate as required but a 1/16" isn't much too work with.
Phil T	#6  Posted on 02/01/08 - 6:08 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	Soldering an extension is another good option. For Gary's situation, the wire is up under the gunnel and there is no space to work or even get a good grip. If you can think of one of the most inaccessable/awkward places, that is where his wire is. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
Joe Kriz	#7  Posted on 02/01/08 - 10:27 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Those wires should actually be easy to get to. I have had great success to remove the rub rail in just the section that I need to. The boat should be left in the sun to warm up the rub rail. Then using a wood putty knife or something similar, pry the black part of the rub rail out. You then have access to the wires and can splice another length on and then thread the new splice back through the 3/8 inch hole and on to the destination. The black rub rail must be warm and pliable.
Gary Sr	#8  Posted on 02/01/08 - 10:27 AM
Member Posts: 58 Comments: 0 Joined: 11/17/07	Thanks guys for all of the suggestions. With about 1/16" of the wires showing through the sidewall I decided to remove the center of the rub rail. Started at the stern and pulled the black center from the rub rail. Found the bow wires pulled them to the outside and butt connected and sealed to wires feed inside to outside. Reinstalled the center of the rub rail. Took less then 20 minutes. Thanks again for all of the suggestions.
Joe Kriz	#9  Posted on 02/01/08 - 10:30 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Gary, Looks like we posted at the same time. Glad you got it figured out.