How to clean Aluminum
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 01/25/08 - 3:15 PM
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I have purchased a Whaler with an aluminum T-Top that is in need of a good cleaning. The T-Top has some oxidation, pitting from salt, grime and other airborne stuff all over the aluminum. I've been told to clean and revive the aluminum use a brass wire wheel, brillo pads, some pretty nasty chemicals and rub wet grit paper. Anyone have any experience? I don't need it to look brand new but I'd like the aluminum to be smooth and clean.
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Davidk |
Posted on 01/25/08 - 3:53 PM
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I have cleaned alot of aluminum in my days, more than I care to (airplanes).
The only stuff I use is a soft chemically treated cotton wadding/cloth. It is called Never Dull. One can will last you years. It is a soft cotton ball like stuff that you rub, and rub, and rub. The more you rub, the shinier it gets. Its cheap and it works great. You can get it at any dincount auto parts store and probably Wal Mart too. Below is a link I found. I am not recommending the retailer, I just found the site real quick, and it has a good pic of the polish.
http://www.edish.com/e/nevrdull.aspvrdull.asp
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MW |
Posted on 01/26/08 - 2:40 AM
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"Nerver Dull" works great, a little goes a long way, it used to be made by "Wesley's", I think it was bought out by a co. called "Auto 1".
mw
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jlh49 |
Posted on 01/26/08 - 7:27 PM
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Woody Wax with bronze wool works great also! I use it to remove rust stains/corrosion from my bow rail and my aluminum T-Top. It can be purchased at Boaters World or West Marine! Good Luck with the cleaning!
Jack Harley
1989 Outrage 22' 2005 Yamaha F150 |
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 01/27/08 - 4:25 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions. I've heard of Never Dull but never used it. I'll buy a can and let you know the outcome. I've used Woody Wax to protect the T-Top on my 260 Outrage but did not think of it as a cleaner. I'll try that too. Again thanks for the suggestions and be safe out there.
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 01/31/08 - 3:02 PM
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I tried Never Dull and Woody Wax and was somewhat successful with both. There was still salt stain of the aluminum using both products. So I tried 1000 grit rub wet paper and found that with tons of elbow grease the aluminum will shine like new. There are no scratches in the aluminum using the 1000 grit. But it seems like it will take a few years to clean and shine the entire T-Top. I am considering having the T-Top powder coated. I can have it coated the Whaler tan or bright white color. Guess I'm going to sleep on it for a few days.
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Doug V |
Posted on 01/31/08 - 5:42 PM
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Gary,
Have you priced having your t-top powder coated? I would be interested in what something like that would cost to do. My t-top is still a little salty looking, after an afternoon of elbow grease. I have been hesitant to price the powder coating, thinking I would be disappointed by how much I can't afford it.
Doug
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Jeff |
Posted on 01/31/08 - 6:47 PM
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Knowing what other items have run to get powercoated I would guess a T-Top to run $1000+. You can get it done in any color you wish. The problem my be finding a place that was the equipment large enough to bake it all at once.
Once the aluminum finish starts to go there is every little one can do to bring it back to original. From the sounds of it I would start with using a little water on a medium (grey color not red) 3M scotch brite pad withsome bar keepers friend powder. BE VERY SURE to keep your scrubbing movements in the correct grain direction of the parts you are cleaning. This should bring it back to a dull shine. Then use a mother's wax powerball mounted on a high speed drill with never dull or mother's wheel polish applied to it. It will take a while and you will get very dirty but that is about the only way I know of to get the aluminum to look fairly new again. Try it in a smaller area first and see what results you get.
Edited by Jeff on 01/31/08 - 6:50 PM
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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Davidk |
Posted on 01/31/08 - 7:15 PM
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Jeff....can I say anything about a "dull shine"????
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Jeff |
Posted on 01/31/08 - 7:21 PM
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Ha, OK...how about a matte sheen? Almost like an anodized finish.
1993 23' Walkaround Whaler Drive |
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 02/01/08 - 4:18 AM
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I've called a few places and they have not replied. They are mostly industrial companies so a T-Top is a small project to them. There is a place in south Jersey that might do the coating. Should know by the end of next week. I'll have a price by then.
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 02/04/08 - 5:15 PM
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Took the T-Top to be powder coated today. This is what I would call a medium size T-Top. Length 78" Width 48" Height 85". First the T-Top will be sand blasted to remove any pitting and smooth the surface and welded joints. Cost $125.00 Next the T-Top will be powder coated. I chose two shades lighter than the Whaler Tan in a semi gloss finish. Powder coating cost $350.00. While I was in the paint shop I saw a number of other items that were powder coated. They looked fantastic! Hope my T-Top looks as good. Previously, I found a shop that was going to charge $150-$200. He was not going to smooth the surface and his work on other items was not a clean and smooth as the shop I chose.
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Doug V |
Posted on 02/04/08 - 6:43 PM
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Gary,
That seems like a pretty reasonable price. One of these days....
Doug
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 02/07/08 - 4:57 PM
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Got the T-Top back today. They did an outstanding job. I am pleased. They powder coated the aluminum legs of the leaning post too. Total cost was $475. Coating is smooth and pitt free. Color looks fantastic next to the Whaler tan. Glad I took the leap and had the T-Top sand blasted and powder coated.
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Doug V |
Posted on 02/07/08 - 7:39 PM
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Gary,
Can you post some pictures once you have the t-top back in the boat? I imagine it looks real nice.
Doug
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Gary Sr |
Posted on 02/08/08 - 4:27 AM
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Wiil do. Read my reply to CBO in the Console Hardware thread.
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