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New Classic Rebuild Started
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| MWH |
Posted on 01/19/21 - 3:38 PM
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Here is the Intro to a rebuild I just started, I'm starting from a bare hull it needs everything. I'm not sure how many episodes it will take and I'll try to post links to materials and what I paid to give you an idea of cost. Check it out.
SpinFish1
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhhxH...amp;t=352s
Edited by Phil T on 01/19/21 - 4:25 PM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/19/21 - 4:25 PM
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Well done Mike.
I prefer the plastic putty knife. Easier to grip.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| huckelberry145 |
Posted on 01/25/21 - 7:41 AM
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I used Nida bond to replace the rotten transom wood in my 15' with good luck. The only problem is that it added several pounds to the aft of the hull. Since two strokes are no longer available new, additional weight there is not a good idea. Wood is the best choice for a transom. I would also check out the weight of Coosa, I used it to restore the anchor locker hatch on my 17' Montauk. It seems very light for it's size. I stand on that hatch and it doesn't give under my feet any. It's in the transom of my uncle's 22' Sea Hunt as well so it must be good stuff.
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| huckelberry145 |
Posted on 01/25/21 - 7:46 AM
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Also, tell me what you need. I have several parts laying around for a 15. I'll even make you a teak steering wheel center cap like what came with the boat back when. My email is in my profile.
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| MWH |
Posted on 01/26/21 - 7:16 AM
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huckelberry145 wrote:
Also, tell me what you need. I have several parts laying around for a 15. I'll even make you a teak steering wheel center cap like what came with the boat back when. My email is in my profile.
Thank You!
I picked up a sheet of Coosa board on Facebook Marketplace, got it super cheap! Its lighter then Marine Plywood and won't rot or absorb water. I'm taking my time and working on it when weather permits, still some deconstructing. It's cold here in Maryland. I have access to a heated garage when it comes time to lay up the transom. I'm going to check Twin Cities for a 15 fiberglass side console. I don't have any real parts at the moment but the teak steering center cap sounds really cool, definitely interested!
*I should have the Episode #2 up in a week.
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| biggiefl |
Posted on 01/26/21 - 8:47 AM
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There are a couple striper consoles in FL on craigslist or on Facebook whaler sites. i think both were around $300+ shipping.
24 Whalers so far.... |
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| MWH |
Posted on 01/26/21 - 12:02 PM
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biggiefl wrote:
There are a couple striper consoles in FL on craigslist or on Facebook whaler sites. i think both were around $300+ shipping.
Well, I checked Beacon Marine-Twin Cities and Florida Craigslist for the "Fiberglass" striper side console and came up empty.. Ugh. If anyone has a lead on one that is for sale let me know! (80's - 90's? model) Thanks!
Edited by MWH on 01/26/21 - 12:08 PM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 01/26/21 - 3:12 PM
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Sometimes sellers are not very accurate or descriptive with their titles or descriptions or their spelling.
One may want to search on many keywords.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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| MWH |
Posted on 01/30/21 - 6:05 AM
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Episode #2 of the Series Airing February 1st at 5:00 eastern time.
SpinFish1 YouTube
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| huckelberry145 |
Posted on 01/30/21 - 8:16 AM
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Teak center cap. I'll need the exact inside diameter of the wheel where the cap goes. Let me know and when it starts getting to a temperature where anything two part will "kick off", it'll be warm enough for me to sit at the lathe and make one. They aren't that difficult to make, the biggest thing is the glue drying time. But I would be glad to do it. Also, I think I have a stern light with stanchions out there too if you need it.
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| MWH |
Posted on 01/30/21 - 2:16 PM
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huckelberry145 wrote:
Teak center cap. I'll need the exact inside diameter of the wheel where the cap goes. Let me know and when it starts getting to a temperature where anything two part will "kick off", it'll be warm enough for me to sit at the lathe and make one. They aren't that difficult to make, the biggest thing is the glue drying time. But I would be glad to do it. Also, I think I have a stern light with stanchions out there too if you need it.
Sounds great, its been 34deg here on average. I'm currently rebuilding the transom an making fairly good progress. It's the biggest job on the boat so figured I'd get to it first. I still have to get a steering wheel, I like the 5 Spoke, 13 1/2" destroyer wheel, I don't know the inside diameter but I'll let you know as soon as I get one. I do have the Stern Light Stanchion pole and mount but not sure what I'm going to do yet with it. Thanks!
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| biggiefl |
Posted on 02/01/21 - 8:08 AM
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They usually use the 15" 5 spoke on 13's but that is your preference. The shaft size is 3/4". The inside diameter of the cap varies by brand. Best would be to measure it exactly or send him the plastic one it comes with. Some have a set screw so being exact is not an issue.
24 Whalers so far.... |
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| MWH |
Posted on 02/01/21 - 2:29 PM
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biggiefl wrote:
They usually use the 15" 5 spoke on 13's but that is your preference. The shaft size is 3/4". The inside diameter of the cap varies by brand. Best would be to measure it exactly or send him the plastic one it comes with. Some have a set screw so being exact is not an issue.
Will do, thanks. Ep# 2 is up of the rebuild.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=19I5jfGKCFM
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| huckelberry145 |
Posted on 02/02/21 - 4:32 AM
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biggiefl wrote:
They usually use the 15" 5 spoke on 13's but that is your preference. The shaft size is 3/4". The inside diameter of the cap varies by brand. Best would be to measure it exactly or send him the plastic one it comes with. Some have a set screw so being exact is not an issue.
There seemed to be only three I/D of steering wheel centers until I tried to buy a black Boston Whaler one off eBay and none were the right size. I know my wheel was factory because it came on my Montauk SE black powder coated like what was offered on that model. With that I made my third cap and it looks good but it's the only teak on board. Oh well, if that's the biggest problem with the boat I'm a lucky man. Fortunately y'all know the truth lol. Anyway I need the exact size so I can deduct a little for the set screw because a tad bit small is okay but too big by just a little it turns into firewood. There's no fixing it.
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| MWH |
Posted on 02/25/21 - 2:51 PM
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Ep.#4
It's just going to get better! Transom is Finished!! We still have a long way to go.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENKmemLfLa0
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| mtown |
Posted on 02/27/21 - 10:58 AM
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Just watched 1-4 very nice job and thanks for sharing. Pasadena?
Looks like that in backround.
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| MWH |
Posted on 02/28/21 - 10:46 AM
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mtown wrote:
Just watched 1-4 very nice job and thanks for sharing. Pasadena?
Looks like that in backround.
Annapolis
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| MWH |
Posted on 03/14/21 - 3:08 PM
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Here is Ep. #5 We flip the 15' and make repairs and use Spectrum Gelcoat Whaler tan on the bottom... Intro to Striper 15 side console Mold.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-rC5b...rC5b_4Yr3o
Edited by Phil T on 03/16/21 - 6:58 AM |
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| MG56 |
Posted on 03/15/21 - 6:03 AM
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Mike, what gun are you using to spray gelcoat, tip size, pressure, etc?
It looks like it laid pretty flat
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| MWH |
Posted on 03/15/21 - 6:23 AM
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MG56 wrote:
Mike, what gun are you using to spray gelcoat, tip size, pressure, etc?
It looks like it laid pretty flat
Actually that gun was giving us problems, its better for automotive paint. We have a New gun (designed to shoot Gelcoat) we will be using to shoot the Gelcoat into the Console Mold. I'll post back with more details. *We used some Patch Aid and a very small amount of Acetone to thin the Gelcoat enough for spraying, it blended quite well after wet sand-buff...
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