Windlass replacement (removal)
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rjdunn |
Posted on 12/11/20 - 1:21 PM
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I have a 2005 Conquest 235 with the factory Lofrans Marlin windlass. I bought this boat in August 2018. The seller told me the windlass didn’t work. However I’ve decided to replace it. As the wiring exists, it’s theoretically straightforward, just replace the windlass, breaker, and switch.
The motor is just a corroded mess. I’m going to replace the whole unit, as the old 3 connector motor is not manufactured any more, and is thus more expensive than a whole new windlass with warranty.
However, right now I’m stuck trying to remove the damn thing. I got the four nuts holding the top housing/gypsy off. But it doesn’t budge. I’m thinking it’s probably old caulking/glue on the lower part in the anchor locker but before I got out a chisel I thought I’d ask, it is supposed to be just held on by those 4 bolts from the top, right? I’m sure the motor is fused to the spline of the windlass, which may be another issue.
I’m just trying to make sure I know how it’s supposed to come out (since I’ve never done this before) before I start the saw and hammer action.
-Joel
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Phil T |
Posted on 12/11/20 - 1:30 PM
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Take a look at this drawing
Phil T attached the following image:
[149.65Kb]
Edited by Phil T on 12/11/20 - 1:34 PM
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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Phil T |
Posted on 12/11/20 - 1:36 PM
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Try holding the ends of 2' of fishing line and pull it under and cut the caulk.
Watch out for the harness underneath.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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rjdunn |
Posted on 12/11/20 - 1:40 PM
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Thanks, Phil. I do have that drawing, it’s just the detail on part 34 that’s getting me!
Thx for the tip about the fishing line to cut the caulking, sounds like a good idea in a tight space like the anchor locker. I imagine braid works best, just have to put it on a handle...
-Joel
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Phil T |
Posted on 12/11/20 - 1:59 PM
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I would email the factory customer service and ask them. They often have additonal drawings not on the website.
Submit the detailed question via their form. They will respond.
https://www.bostonwhaler.com/marketin...r-service/
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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rjdunn |
Posted on 12/11/20 - 2:31 PM
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Thx! Will reach out to BW as needed...
-Joel
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rjdunn |
Posted on 12/12/20 - 9:51 AM
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So, the windlass is still stuck in place, but I know what the problem is. I’ve wiggled the caulking loose at the top and bottom. The issue is that the drive shaft from the gear box is apparently frozen/rusted in place and won’t release.
Here’s what I see are the options:
1) I’ve pumped it full of WD40 to see if that will loosen it (not wildly optimistic)
2) Get a better penetrating oil and see if that helps
3) See if a sawzall will cut the drive shaft (probably won’t work, steel too hard)
4) Cut out the whole thing, put a piece of teak over it, and mount the new windlass on that.
Thoughts?
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Phil T |
Posted on 12/12/20 - 10:22 AM
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Try Kroil or PB Blaster, both are a penetrant. WD is a water dispersal spray. Soak a bit. 2 hrs later repeat x 2. Sit overnight.
Any way to smack it with a mini sledgehammer? The shock can break the corrosion.
A Sawz-all (reciprocating saw) with a metal blade will cut it. You can rent this hand tool if need be.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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rjdunn |
Posted on 12/12/20 - 12:30 PM
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Mission accomplished, used a sawzall with a metal-cutting blade. Had several folks on another forum tell me thats the way it was done...
rjdunn attached the following image:
[138.71Kb]
Edited by rjdunn on 12/12/20 - 12:31 PM |
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Phil T |
Posted on 12/12/20 - 4:49 PM
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Make sure you seal the cut sides of the openings and the screw holes with marine sealant.
1992 Outrage 17 I
2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+
2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT |
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rjdunn |
Posted on 12/12/20 - 5:40 PM
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Yep, but with the rode locker right there, it’s a wet environment no matter what...
Thanks for the replies...
-Joel
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