Trailering long distance
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niagra0406 |
Posted on 04/14/19 - 11:55 AM
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I have a new 2019 130 Super Sport that came with a new Karavan trailer. I am going to be taking the boat to Canada (and back) from Florida during the summer. Is this trailer adequate for the distance and speed? It is about 26 hours of travel. I am going to pick up a spare tire. Other than that, any suggestions/warnings/advice? First time towing a boat!
Thanks!
Fancy
Edited by niagra0406 on 04/14/19 - 11:57 AM |
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/14/19 - 2:32 PM
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Welcome Aboard Whaler Central Niagra.
Traveling that far I would consider keeping a couple of "Wheel Bearing and Race Kits"
https://www.easternmarine.com/Trailer...ings-Races
and possibly a spare Hub.
https://www.easternmarine.com/HUBS-Tr...l-Hub-Kits
and definitely a spare tire as you mention.
Other members may have more suggestions.
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JRP |
Posted on 04/14/19 - 6:15 PM
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What is your tow vehicle? Does it (tow vehicle) have a full-size spare (not a donut)? If not, you’ll want to upgrade to one. Pulling a trailer with a donut spare is ill-advised.
One thing to keep in mind is vehicle speed. If you have a good-sized tow vehicle, you may find it easy to cruise along at high speeds with such a small boat in tow. But realize that most trailer tires are speed-limited. Make sure to understand the tire rating and keep speeds in check.
For trailer tire changing you’ll want to have a good jack and other necessary tools.
I suggest you practice a bit locally before making the trip to Canada.
Edited by JRP on 04/14/19 - 6:17 PM
19 Outrage II (1992) |
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gchuba |
Posted on 04/14/19 - 10:03 PM
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Feel the tongue weight. A couple hundred pounds a pretty good starting point. Not rocket science. Use your legs and see if you can lift it. If very light the trailer tongue could pop off on bumps. If too heavy you loose "road feel" and difficult to steer. Heavy hitch weight would lift the front axle up. Stop along the way and check the rigging and walk around the trailer/boat. A binding could have loosened. All the above suggestions most excellent to follow. You do not want to lack tools or parts if something happens. I prefer a 1/2" breaker with a deep heavy duty socket for changing tires. The extra length of the socket leaves the breaker bar at a 90 degree angle for removing the nut. You can "persuade" it by jumping on it.
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Finnegan |
Posted on 04/15/19 - 3:48 PM
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All advice above is good. Re-inforcing key points:
1. Carry a spare set of bearings
2. Be sure all tires inflated to 50#, and have wheels balanced.
3. jack up each wheel and spin tire to make sure bearings are tight, with no wobble or rubbing sounds.
4. Since you probably have a spindle lube axle, pump in fresh grease. Be sure rear bearing seal is not leaking (inside of wheel will have grease splatters on it). If so, have seals replaced so you do not lose grease on your trip and fry a bearing.
5. Assuming you have 13" wheels, limit speed to 70 MPH. With these smaller diameter wheels/tires, SPEED KILLS BEARINGS because they are turning so much faster than the car wheels.
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Stovebolt |
Posted on 04/16/19 - 3:59 AM
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Route Planning is important.
If you are headed for the Maritimes, get on I-81 as soon as you can and take it all the way north to I-90 and cut back across. The road conditions and tolls along the I-95 corridor are just hateful. Speaking of tolls, get an EZPass (still a lot of tolls no matter which way you go and stopping for all of them gets really really really TEDIOUS).
If you are not going to the NorthEast (Maritimes), but somewhere further West that allows you to avoid I-95 and the Northeastern US ... then disregard all of the above and enjoy your trip.
Make sure you check out both US and Canadian customs' web sites to ensure you will have the required documentation for yourselves, your tow vehicle and the boat.
Edited by Stovebolt on 04/16/19 - 4:01 AM
1970 Sakonnet w/ 2019 Evinrude E-TEC 90 HP -- "Makai"
Tow Vehicle: 2014 Ford E-350 Quigley 4x4 |
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Walt Krafft |
Posted on 04/16/19 - 5:39 AM
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All the above is good advice. I have trailered thousands of miles with all kinds of trailers. 1500 just in the last week. Being prepared usually means you won't need it.
If you are new to trailering I have two suggestions. 1) Find an empty parking lot and practice backing up. You WILL need to backup a trailer. 2) Take a test trip. Spend an afternoon and travel out 100 miles and back. Pick a route with some city, Interstate, and state highway roads. Watch how the trailer handles behind your vehicle, and how your vehicle handles with a trailer behind it. Are you comfortable? If NOT, fix it before your big trip.
Good luck and enjoy! That is why we do this.
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ByronH |
Posted on 04/30/19 - 9:28 AM
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It should be okay. There is a lot of good advice on the internet about towing. A couple of things to keep in mind. If you normally take 26 hours to make the trip, count on a longer trip. You really shouldn't go faster that 60 with a boat, although many do. Secondly, make sure to regularly check the wheel bearings, this can be done just by feeling the hub of the wheel. Warm is ok, hot means you need to check the bearings. Make sure that your car is rated for the tow and remember, want the car manufacturer lists the towing capacity, the weight includes all the extra weight IN THE VEHICLE AS WELL AS THE BOAT AND TRAILER. You don't want to blow a transmission. Also, be sure the boat and trailer are properly balanced for towing - about 10% on the tongue. Also, make sure that the trailer, when hitched to the vehicle, is level - this will also help prevent swaying. I have towed several times from Michigan to Florida - just remember that you have a trailer behind you. Good luck and enjoy Canada.
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gchuba |
Posted on 04/30/19 - 10:22 AM
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You should check the DMV codes of the states you are passing through for trailer weight ratings and the need for trailer brakes. Get in an accident and an illegal trailer could cause issues for liability and insurance.
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PatSea |
Posted on 04/30/19 - 4:28 PM
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I've towed my 1972 13 Whaler with a Karavan trailer twice from Ohio to Florida and back. I carry a spare tire, spare hub assembly, jack, shoring for jack and all the tools required to change out the wheel and hub. I grab the hubs at each stop to feel for temperature. I also carry a small handheld IR gun for temperature. I also watch for grease being slung oot onto the spindle. As was said, warm is OK, hot is not. I tow with a Honda Crv and it tows very easily. It's easy to go too fast down the interstate. Hppe this helps.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 04/30/19 - 5:42 PM |
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dontate |
Posted on 04/30/19 - 5:24 PM
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I do not know your route however I just trailered from Naples, FL to Maryland. I used the auto train for a majority of the trip. My 16' Nauset and pickup fit the dimension requirements so I am sure your boat would comply. Other comments are all great, mainly your driving speed.
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Harpooner |
Posted on 04/30/19 - 7:06 PM
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I trailer our 190 Montauk (dual axle Karavan trailer) over 2000 miles each summer (Colorado to Wisconsin). What I've learned:
- Infrared temp gun is best for hub temps because it gives you a number, not just "hot" or "really warm"
- Check hub temps when you stop for gas. After a long downhill of braking, they may be hotter than they normally would, so factor that.
- Be familiar with changing / adjusting bearings.
- Bring jack, proper tools, grease gun, spare bearing kits, towels, latex gloves.
- At one rest stop, I found the hub a tiny bit loose, so took the time to adjust castle nut, and re-lube. 20 minutes of time, but I felt better about the rest of the trip.
- Removing the L-pin is a b_tch. Have a few spares of these as they are not your typical cotter pin.
- if you have the same grease setup as mine (sure lube system), it's very easy to grease after each use. Watch youtube videos. Pump grease while spinning tire. Easy Peasy.
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duf |
Posted on 07/31/20 - 6:55 AM
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The only thing i would add, is bring a couple of short pieces of 2X4's. you can use them as spacers and if your flat is on the inboard side of the highway, to place on the ground and support your jack. Comes in very handy when your in soft ground...
duf
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docsoma |
Posted on 08/05/20 - 8:35 PM
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fortunate to see this thread after being gone a couple of years.
i need to move my 1991 13 ft Super Sport Limited from the San Diego area to Tacoma WA (Gig Harbor). I am too timid and nervous to tow the boat that distance.
I have found a Penske 16 foot truck rental that might work but I am unsure of how to get the boat into the truck box. It appears there are folding ramps that might work. Another possibility is to have a block and tackle set up to lift the boat plus trailer into the truck.
Any suggestions? Do car transporters move small boats?
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guitarfish |
Posted on 08/07/20 - 7:41 AM
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I'm sure you can pay someone to do it, or rent a flat transport trailer and roll it on there.
I'm towing a small trailer with 12'' tires from SF to middle Oregon here in a few weeks. I'll just take my time and stop occassionally to check straps and hubs. Just be prepared with a jack and spare hub.
1971 Menemsha 16 and 1978 15' Custom |
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CES |
Posted on 11/23/20 - 11:55 AM
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duf wrote:
The only thing i would add, is bring a couple of short pieces of 2X4's. you can use them as spacers and if your flat is on the inboard side of the highway, to place on the ground and support your jack. Comes in very handy when your in soft ground...
duf
Great advice. This has happened to me too.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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wrangler |
Posted on 11/24/20 - 3:40 AM
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Some states like Florida Require Boat tie downs. Do not just rely on the winch strap. You should have 2 in the back and one in the front in addition to the winch strap.
Check the trailer lights. All of them and if not LED, then carry spare bulbs.
The vehicle jack and lug wrench probably will not fit the trailer. Check to make sure you Can change a tire.
Have you ever seen a trailer swerving behind a vehicle on a highway? That's because the tongue weight is not correct.
7-10% is required of the total weight of the boat and trailer on the tongue.
I mounted my trailer lights up high on the 2 left and right guide poles mounted to the trailer. They are easier to see and act like the high brake lights on vehicles.
Tie everything down in the boat that is not fastened to it. Items will blow out and you lose them. Keep the drain plugs out, if it rains, you do not want to trailer a boat full of water.
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Stovebolt |
Posted on 11/24/20 - 5:50 AM
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I wonder if the OP will ever be back to close the loop and let us know how the trip went ... ?
1970 Sakonnet w/ 2019 Evinrude E-TEC 90 HP -- "Makai"
Tow Vehicle: 2014 Ford E-350 Quigley 4x4 |
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guitarfish |
Posted on 11/24/20 - 6:03 PM
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I feel you Stovebolt. I belong to a bunch of sites and rarely answer anyone that hasn't been around for a while. You qualified with 30 posts, lol.
1971 Menemsha 16 and 1978 15' Custom |
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