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1985 50hp 2 stroke 4cyl No Spark
rockinhitz34	#1  Posted on 06/27/17 - 4:10 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	Long story short splash-down was fun for about 20 minutes before my outboard cut out and would not start back up. Got home checked compression (engine cold, throttle neutral) in all 4 cyl was 110 PSI. Fuel was good, very fresh full tank, mixed correctly, firm bulb full carbs etc. Turns out I had no spark. Pulled up the wiring diagram and checked the fuse first. It was blown so I replaced it (20A) but still no spark. I checked the continuity of the fuse holder and that checked out. I checked the stator/trigger and one ignition coil (no spark on any of them I figured they all wouldnt die at once) and they checked out per my seloc manual ohms meter testing of the different color wire combos. Any help here, I am at a loss. Seems to me like it is a switchbox problem. Probably should mention I bought new spark plugs and they wont spark either (not a plug problem). Any and all help is appreciated!
Walt Krafft	#2  Posted on 06/27/17 - 4:31 PM
Member Posts: 168 Comments: 0 Joined: 06/16/14	I would check the kill switch and its wiring.
rockinhitz34	#3  Posted on 06/27/17 - 7:53 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	I checked the switch and it was in the "on" position, also bypassed the wiring and still didnt get a spark so I dont think its the kill switch.
Phil T	#4  Posted on 06/28/17 - 5:09 AM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	If there are any connectors, pull off and re-connect. Check for any and all grounds. 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
rockinhitz34	#5  Posted on 06/28/17 - 8:55 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	Thanks Phil, I disconnected everything and cleaned/checked all the wires I could to make sure I have good connections at the terminals, all seems good there, still no spark.
Phil T	#6  Posted on 06/28/17 - 12:30 PM
Administrator Personal Page Personal Album Project Albums Posts: 7043 Comments: 6 Joined: 03/26/05	If the engine ran then you blew a fuse, you probably melted something. Solenoid or a wire 1992 Outrage 17 I 2019 E-TEC 90, Viper 17 2+ 2018 Load Rite Elite 18280096VT
mtown	#7  Posted on 06/28/17 - 12:55 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 613 Comments: 5 Joined: 07/06/08	Phil T wrote: If the engine ran then you blew a fuse, yprobably ou melted something. Solenoid or a wire That was my thoughts too. Wire that has failed can be impossible to see. Check for any of the critical wires having a lot of flex in a spot. I had a bad lead from my battery that was thick woven copper cable and looked great from outside. Only way I found it was internally failed was I used a jumper cable to "replace" it. Once I knew it was bad I stripped the insulation and found the green failure.
rockinhitz34	#8  Posted on 06/29/17 - 9:10 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	It could be a portion of a wire I cannot see leading into the trigger or stator, but all the wires I have found and traced look ok. Ill see what happens when I bend them and move them. I bypassed my control box by just jumping my battery to the starter solenoid and still no spark so I think I have isolate the problem to the engine itself, specifically the ignition system. No spark when I bypass the kill switch or rectifier so I dont think it is either of those. I tested the resistance on the stator, trigger, and ignition coils and those are all in spec. I think it is the switch box itself. Seems like it has a crack in the vinyl/plastic/electrical tape-like substance on it. Ill upload a pic. Apparently they can go bad if the kill switch carries voltage when you turn the key from off to on...although I tested and didnt see any. Anyone know anything about these switch boxes going bad? My part # 332-5772A2
rockinhitz34	#9  Posted on 06/29/17 - 9:18 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	Switch box rockinhitz34 attached the following image: [96.21Kb]
rockinhitz34	#10  Posted on 06/29/17 - 9:19 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	Close-up you can see a crack to the left of the first red rubber cap rockinhitz34 attached the following image: [83.11Kb]
VA Whaler	#11  Posted on 06/29/17 - 9:37 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 335 Comments: 0 Joined: 04/25/13	Good find. I replaced several back in my marine mechanic days but I don't recall one causing the fuse to blow. I'd still take the time to check all the wires and make sure they are not getting brittle and maybe laying against a piece of metal. You don't want to replace the thing twice. :) Edited by VA Whaler on 06/29/17 - 9:37 AM
rockinhitz34	#12  Posted on 06/29/17 - 10:35 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 105 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/17/15	Yes very true they are annoyingly expensive. I will be sure to check over all the wires and make sure they are all still in good shape. Thanks for the advice all.