|
Surge Brakes - preventing freeze-up?
|
| tedious |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 7:33 AM
|
Member
Personal Page
Posts: 1072
Comments:
2
Joined: 09/07/08
|
Our ten year old Load-Rite trailer (for a non-Whaler) has 4-wheel surge brakes. We literally use the trailer twice a year, to launch in spring and haul in the fall. We do launch in salt water, but always rinse the brakes with fresh afterwards to the extent possible.
3 years ago while the trailer was sitting unused over the summer (mid-June to early September) two brakes welded themselves to the disks, and we needed to have all 4 brakes replaced on an emergency basis to be able to haul the boat. Unfortunately, we didn't have a say in the matter as we were in a hurry, or I would have considered stainless disks.
This year, when we went to haul two brakes were again sticking, but loosened up after we got them on pavement and went over a bump or two. I am worried that we're on borrowed time and will run into the same disk lockup problem again soon - the last thing you need in New England or really anywhere you might need to haul in a hurry because a hurricane is coming.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to prevent pads sticking to discs? Or any experience with the stainless discs giving better longevity?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Tim
|
| |
|
|
| fitz73222 |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 8:36 AM
|
Member
Posts: 67
Comments:
0
Joined: 02/23/16
|
tedious wrote:
Our ten year old Load-Rite trailer (for a non-Whaler) has 4-wheel surge brakes. We literally use the trailer twice a year, to launch in spring and haul in the fall. We do launch in salt water, but always rinse the brakes with fresh afterwards to the extent possible.
3 years ago while the trailer was sitting unused over the summer (mid-June to early September) two brakes welded themselves to the disks, and we needed to have all 4 brakes replaced on an emergency basis to be able to haul the boat. Unfortunately, we didn't have a say in the matter as we were in a hurry, or I would have considered stainless disks.
This year, when we went to haul two brakes were again sticking, but loosened up after we got them on pavement and went over a bump or two. I am worried that we're on borrowed time and will run into the same disk lockup problem again soon - the last thing you need in New England or really anywhere you might need to haul in a hurry because a hurricane is coming.
Does anyone have any tips or tricks to prevent pads sticking to discs? Or any experience with the stainless discs giving better longevity?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Tim
Hi Tim,
Are you sure that the pads are seizing to the rotor or is it the caliper sticking closed? If these are Kodiak brakes, my experience has been that if they do not release, it is because that the caliper sliding pins need to be removed and greased to cure the problem.
|
| |
|
|
| tedious |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 9:27 AM
|
Member
Personal Page
Posts: 1072
Comments:
2
Joined: 09/07/08
|
Fitz, in the most recent case I don't know - it came loose pretty quicky. In the first instance, I actually unbolted the caliper from the mount point and it was still stuck on the disc - had to bash it off with a sledge and it took some doing. To me, that would indicate that either there was pressure in the brake fluid, or the pads stuck to the rotor - and the former would seem to be precluded since two other wheels were moving freely.
So assuming it's a floating caliper design, I'd think that taking the rotor off the mount would take the pins out of the picture, wouldn't it?
Tim
|
| |
|
|
| Finnegan |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 3:43 PM
|
Member
Posts: 1926
Comments:
16
Joined: 05/02/08
|
For many years now, the Continental trailers I have been buying come with Tie Down disc brakes which have a non-vented SS rotor design. The rotor is about 3/8" thick I would say. These rotors last and last, and outlast the aluminum calipers considerably. They are so hard that they do not need to be "turned", which saves considerably when calipers or pads need replacement. I have never had a pad bond to the rotor as you describe. What I like about Tie Down is that they can be serviced without having to go to a costly brake shop. Caliper and pad replacement is easy to do yourself. On all disc brake installations, be sure to change out the 7/16" bolts to SS holding the caliper support to the axle brake flange. The ordinary plated bolts they all use will freeze up on you quickly, making caliper removal for new pads very difficult. They all use 7/16" x 1-1/4". I use lock washers and regular SS nut to avoid galling seizure common with larger SS locknuts.
I just updated my Outrage 25 trailer with Tie Down G-5 model discs, which have the same non-vented rotor design, this time with small holes drilled into it, and newer more corrosion resistant aluminum calipers. They work REALLY well!
If you use the Kodiak line, buy the higher grade model, which has the vented SS rotors. But they are costly - about $650/wheel!
A good place to research various lines of disc brakes, and the components, is easternmarine.com.
|
| |
|
|
| blaster |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 5:09 PM
|
Member
Posts: 95
Comments:
0
Joined: 03/13/15
|
Are you using organic brake pads?
|
| |
|
|
| tedious |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 6:14 PM
|
Member
Personal Page
Posts: 1072
Comments:
2
Joined: 09/07/08
|
blaster wrote:
Are you using organic brake pads?
No idea - whatever came with the brakes.
|
| |
|
|
| blaster |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 6:36 PM
|
Member
Posts: 95
Comments:
0
Joined: 03/13/15
|
Can't just use any old brake pads.
|
| |
|
|
| Oceanside |
Posted on 09/07/16 - 7:06 PM
|
Member
Posts: 19
Comments:
0
Joined: 12/14/15
|
My trailer sits up from May untill late November.Once a month I hook up the trailer and take it on a 2 mile ride.I try to hit the brakes kind of hard to keep things freed up.
|
| |
|
|
| gentilebrian |
Posted on 09/08/16 - 10:06 AM
|
Member
Posts: 59
Comments:
0
Joined: 09/13/07
|
Few things
Some people put WD40 on them to protect them. Personally I don't think that's a very good idea but They said it wears off very quickly as its not really a lubricant.
Second is rinse will salt away. Awesome stuff.
Third. Jack the front of the trailer WAY down. Put some blocks on the back and jack it back up. This will take the tires off the ground so every few weeks you can kick the tires and keep them moving. Also keeping them off the ground will reduce flat spots and if stored in the grass keep them from rotting out. Also good for the springs if you keep the boat on it but be careful with the boat on it to make sure you are not overloading the jack.
Now I live in Chicago so only the road salt I have to deal with as I boat all winter and also a few trips to FL if I'm lucky but I did a ton of research so I don't destroy my trailers.
|
| |
|
|
| Paul A |
Posted on 08/03/17 - 4:39 PM
|
Member
Posts: 16
Comments:
0
Joined: 01/10/14
|
I experienced similar problems until I put electric brakes on the boat trailer.
Perfect after 7 years.
Your vehicle needs a brake controller found on many trucks as standard.
|
| |
|
|
| butchdavis |
Posted on 08/04/17 - 7:19 AM
|
Member
Posts: 838
Comments:
0
Joined: 11/22/11
|
Liberal lubrication of the caliper pins and any other moving parts after every use should resolve the problem. Very easy and quick job.
Butch |
| |
|
|
| tedious |
Posted on 09/04/17 - 4:45 PM
|
Member
Personal Page
Posts: 1072
Comments:
2
Joined: 09/07/08
|
Well, they're not frozen up this year - just tested them. I sprayed the disks liberally with WD40 before moving the trailer the last few feet into its summer storage location, and also pulled forward against a chock to make sure the pressure was out of the system to the extent possible. Seems to have worked but I will also try the jacking method next year. Thanks for the help all!
Tim
|
| |
|
