new member jeff lohr's 15' classic restored whaler
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/27/16 - 6:42 PM
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https://postimg.org/gallery/2r1m2p8go/2r1m2p8go/
Hey all, my son has helped me get a link for some photos of my classic 15' . please let me know if you all can see and what everyone thinks. My 1st restoration, still in progress, but now use able. I'll post more later. Thanks, Jeff Lohr
Edited by Jeff Lohr on 08/27/16 - 7:09 PM |
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NCWhaler |
Posted on 08/28/16 - 5:32 AM
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Wow, just beautiful! Is that paint or gel? It looks like frost green, a combination of lots of yellow and some blue pigment.
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/28/16 - 7:13 AM
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I painted that with Sikkens LV 650 Aqua Mist base coat, then clearcoated with Sikkens Superior 250, extremely hard and durable clear. The bottom is Snow White. All can be gained from an Awlgrip chart. LV 650 is a catalyzed base coat so all by itself its a tough system. I cleared it so I could get extra UV protection, and stain resistance. Thanks for the compliment!
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Perichbrothers |
Posted on 08/28/16 - 11:24 AM
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Sharp lookin rig!
Color combo is perfect.
TP
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EJO |
Posted on 08/29/16 - 6:18 AM
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great looking boat and a 90 HP on it, wow. Love the bow locker finish. how did you accomplish that?
Skipper E-J
m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150 |
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tedious |
Posted on 08/29/16 - 6:52 AM
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Very nice - I think you're going to want the motor up at least one more hole! Should be a rocket.
Tim
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/30/16 - 4:44 AM
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Thanks all, I did try the motor up 1 more hole and spinning a 13 1/4x20 Laser II running 3 gals of 93 octane, 6" chop and trimmed up I can GPS 50 mph. I did extend the lifting strakes to the rear for a wee bit more high speed stability, but it will still chine walk a little. The locker hatch and all seating has the subtle clear non skid so walking is not slippery. I flood coated the hatch with 207 UV hardener in the West system and flat block sanded several times, then sprayed with a ceramic clear, blocked again, then sprayed a special epoxy non skid and applied 1 more coat of ceramic clear. All wood seated surfaces done as well. I have dogs and it has held up well to claws. I used metal radiator screen from my hardware store for a pattern. Interesting that as a result I have received 2 whalers already to restore from it.
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dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 08/30/16 - 9:14 AM
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Hello Jeff,
That's one wickedly nice Whaler you've got there!!! Inquiry on your power set-up...what rpm's are you turning at wot with that prop? Does it get on plane quickly? Are you getting decent cruise speed and rpm's?
Thanks in advance for your time and enjoy your jewel.
Best regards,
Angel M.
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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tedious |
Posted on 08/30/16 - 9:39 AM
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Very cool - not surprised you're still chine-walking at 50; even the extended strakes are likely out of the water at that speed!
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EJO |
Posted on 08/30/16 - 11:01 AM
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Jeff Lohr wrote:
I used metal radiator screen from my hardware store for a pattern. Interesting that as a result I have received 2 whalers already to restore from it.
Thanks for letting us know as it looks like a great pattern, much more character than just a clear wood finish.
happy boating.
Skipper E-J
m/v "Clumsy Cleat" a 2008 Montauk 150 |
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 4:50 AM
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Thanks all, for the compliments. Angel, I had to table some of the whaler work due to finishing work on a remodel house project, but I have some info for you on performance. Yes it comes on plane well with the trim tucked in, and it cruises at a sweet spot around 28 mph with this setup. The Yamaha 90 runs a pretty tall gear at 2:1, whereas most 70-90 HP 3 cylinders run from 2.33 to 2.5:1. So I'm spinning that prop a little faster than a 70 rude, or Yamaha. Mercury 3 cyl 90 is a bigger heavier block and runs a 2.33 gear so you would have to get a bigger wheel, say around 22 pitch for start. My motor is set so the hook on the top of the transom bracket is 1.5 inches above the transom. I have no tach yet but I measured speed by GPS and timed several runs on an exact quantity of fuel. At 24 mph it gets about 6 mpg and at 28 mph it gets around 5.5 mpg. Once I get tach installed I'll know more. This of course is a 2 stroke engine. I like the setup as the motor weight is virtually identical to the old 70 e-rude, so its static trim, and handling remains the same. But with the extra HP on tap its good for pulling skiers or heavy loads of people. I do drop back to a 13 1/2 x17 prop though. I do really like the laser 11 for most of my use and cruising as it really grips well. I did plug the vents so it runs cleaner at low speeds.
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dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 10:30 AM
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Hello again Jeff and thank you for the details.
You and I are running the same outboards, mine is a 2007 with just barely 100 hrs. of use. Mine is mounted all the way up on the transom with cavitation plate roughly an inch above keel. I've run to prop types on my Dauntless with different performances felt.
First was a Solas (older version) Saturn in Stainless 13-1/4"D x 17"P 3 blade "round-ear". It had good mid-range with top end but hard to get on plane, it would bury the stern (drive tucked all in)...not good if in shallow water. It didn't really like slower cruising speeds either.
My current prop is from Power Tech (can't remember model number) but it's listed for our Yamaha 90 2 stroke. It's 13"D x 17"P 3 blade "semi-cleaver" in Stainless (similar to OEM Yamaha props). Night and day performance...this prop pops the stern right up with minimal rpm and has great mid and upper range performance.
I would guess my Dauntless 15 probably weights slightly more than your Classic 15, these Yamaha 90's definitely get the job done...no complaints here.
That's it for now...happy boating too you.
Regards,
Angel M.
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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jamesgt727 |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 3:12 PM
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Very cool - not surprised you're still chine-walking at 50; even the extended strakes are likely out of the water at that speed!
Nice boat brother. Chine walking means your nose is too high or your prop is wrong. A laser II, although a great prop in most other cases is a bow lifting prop. You definitely don't need that. You can work that prop to fix the issue on that hull, I had success, but I had a 22" labbed, thinned the blades and added a ton of trailing edge cup. Also, trimmed the ears to a point, like an offshore cut. Ended up with a merc cleaver...
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 3:37 PM
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Hey James! Great to hear from you. I'll take that as a huge compliment coning from the looks of your classic 15! I know that prop has too much bow lift but I don't run it opened up very much. However, it would be interesting to see what is possible to improve the high speed handling. I was wondering your thoughts on the 15 spline small hub Yamaha props? They look pretty nice but I'm unfamiliar. I'll keep working on it though. Miami, your Dauntless is heavier and that POWERTECH is probably an SCD-3, stands for semi-cleaver. The Laser II will dig a little hole coming up and doesn't do well at low planing speeds, but at higher planing speeds it seems to settle in and do well. It does like being at the top of the water. I think they do make a 19 pitch, but it has the newer flo-torque hub. Powertech and Prop Gods are the place to go for great advice and I wouldn't hesitate to get in touch with Tom Clark on this site as well. The classic 15' hull weight is right around 550-580 lbs. But the bottom design also is different. Keep in touch!
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jamesgt727 |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 5:34 PM
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You should try a 22" or 24" Yamaha drag prop. See if you can find one on eBay or screamandfly those guys like to trade too. You can run a taller prop if you have a jack plate and low water pickup. I run a 28" cleaver at 6100 rpm. But it's not practical for everyday use. I only use my boat as a river taxi or speed blasts so it works for me.
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jamesgt727 |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 5:35 PM
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If you ever want to hop up the Yamaha let me know, I know a good shop that makes those scream
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 5:57 PM
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James, thanks I'll look for 1 and if reasonable $, I'll give it a spin. Without overweighting the transom with a V-4 unit, what really is the limit that guys have gone withthe 3 cyl. in top speed? Just curious I guess because the length and light weight asks for aerodynamics instead of hydrodynamics at some point. I use it as a easy in and out open skiff for the dogs, easy to beach, economical, also garden hose easy cleanup, and ski boat when the kids are here. I also believe it to be THE best looking profile of all the classics!
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 08/31/16 - 5:57 PM
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James, thanks I'll look for 1 and if reasonable $, I'll give it a spin. Without overweighting the transom with a V-4 unit, what really is the limit that guys have gone withthe 3 cyl. in top speed? Just curious I guess because the length and light weight asks for aerodynamics instead of hydrodynamics at some point. I use it as a easy in and out open skiff for the dogs, easy to beach, economical, also garden hose easy cleanup, and ski boat when the kids are here. I also believe it to be THE best looking profile of all the classics!
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jamesgt727 |
Posted on 09/01/16 - 11:48 AM
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A over-built 3-cyl Merc will push the boat hopefully to 70 mph. The Yamaha has the ability to hold together better and rev a bit higher, but that seems to be the limit. This winter my motor is coming apart and being built by a 3.0 Merc motor building legend. He is going to add a custom fabricated offshore mid section with above water exhaust, and he is going to attempt to sleeve the block and put forged pistons with a shorter stroke to rev higher, my personal goal is 9,000 rpm. Then he plans to machine new billet head/exhaust plate and a custom flywheel. Port and polish, etc. The lower will be filled in and the exhaust thru the hub will be removed, and cross-section reduced. Don't even ask why I'm doing it, I don't have a good enough reason, but there's gonna be a Boston Whaler top speed shoot-out early next summer, and I want to make a good showing. I like the weight of the 3-cyl, but to lighten it, I'm going to attempt a carbon fiber skirt and cowl. We will see if I actually get it all done in time or even do it at all. If it doesn't work out in theory, I'll try to hang a 90's 2.4 or 2.5 V-6 on it for the race.
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Jeff Lohr |
Posted on 09/02/16 - 6:01 PM
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YIKES !, 70 in that hull probably demands big ones, and a determined touch on the steering wheel! I've been 90 + on a Hydrostream with a good driver but that was years ago, and I was comfortable with his skills. Lmk though if you need to know about coatings, or paint. Been doing it most of my life.
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