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Trailer issue Dauntless 15- proper bunk adjustment?
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| joz |
Posted on 06/02/15 - 6:34 AM
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I recently purchased a 1995 Dauntless 15. It came with a 2007 Shore Landr trailer with bunks, a keel roller towards the front, and a keel pad at the back and middle braces. Once on the trailer, the keel rests on the front roller and the middle roller, but the rear of the boat sits primarily on the bunks, about 2 inches above the keel pad on the back cross bar. This makes the boat sit on the trailer so that the bow sits a little lower than the transom. Should I lower the bunks in the back one or two notches if I have the space? The boat is tough to center properly on the trailer because the bunks are set to be inside the only predominant chine I guess you would call it, so nothing really self centers the boat. I considered moving the bunks outside of this chine, but the problem with that is that there is a drain hole through the bottom of the boat with a stainless steel "protector" that sits over the drain hole that also helps water flow over the hole. If I move the bunks, that stainless protector would dig into the wooden bunks, as well as get stuck on the carpet during launching. Does anyone have a similar set up that works for them? Any thoughts? Anyone have a picture of your setup that may help me? Thanks!
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| Phil T |
Posted on 06/02/15 - 8:25 AM
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Typically, the trailer should have a wide (10-12")keel roller on each cross member. The rollers should be as low as practical. The boat keel rests on the rollers and the bunks just balance the hull, side to side.
The boat should sit slightly bow high when trailer is level.
If rigged right, the hull should slide off when pushed by one person.
As for loading, the trailer needs to be submerged so that the bow catches the a keel roller. Launching and retrieving is a skill that takes practice.
I personally prefer stern side rollers to help launching and retrieving.
It would help seeing several photos of the boat on the trailer from different points of view. Then we can give you spot on advice.
See my trailer album for reference.
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| jgortva |
Posted on 06/02/15 - 8:51 AM
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Hello Joz,
I also have 1995 Dauntless. Pictures of my setup, however will not help you as I have an original 1995 Calkins trailer that is set up the same in regard to the middle and front rollers being utilized and not the rear. I believe the bunks are set up correctly as the bow of my boat sits a little higher than the front. It really doesn't seem to be an issue as when the trailer is not hooked up to the tow vehicle, I just adjust the trailer jack to compensate and let any rainwater drain to the back of the boat where the scuppers are located.. My boat was also a little tricky to center on the trailer and actually had a side mounted roller guide on only one side when I purchased the boat. After removing this I spent a little time on getting the trailer depth in the water just right to where the boat is just barely not "floating" once it is a little passed midpoint on the trailer when being pulled out of the water. In this case the winch is actually slightly dragging the boat lightly on the bunks and this seems to allow it to self center. It might take a couple tries backing your rig into the water but you should be able to find a happy medium of trailer depth where the winch is dragging the boat over the bunks, but without too much effort on your part or strain on the trailer winch. Once I got the depth of the trailer just where I wanted it, the trailer fenders were about 3/4 submerged. At this point I took some cheap automotive pinstripe tape and market the "waterline" on both fenders and now using this "waterline" sets my trailer depth perfect every time to get the boat on the trailer centered.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 06/02/15 - 10:18 AM |
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| joz |
Posted on 06/02/15 - 10:06 AM
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Thanks for both responses. Jgortva, this is the strategy that I have decided I will have to apply until I have the desire to install a rear and mid keel roller. I had a four winns bow rider for years that self centered so easily. The Dauntless has been tricky. Do you have a middle and rear roller on your trailer or just keel pads as I have? I will also post some pictures when I get a chance. Maybe that would help.
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| gary0319 |
Posted on 06/02/15 - 11:59 AM
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I have a 1998 Dauntless 15 and just recently purchased a new Continental trailer for it. The trailer has 2, 12 Stoltz rollers, one at the stern crossbar and one at the mid crossbar. It came with a roller on the front crossbar,. but it never contacted the bow so it was removed. The boat rests on the keel rollers with the bunks just keeping the boat from rocking side to side.
I usually retrieve the boat by backing into the water until I have only about 12" of bunk still showing above the water. My wife guides the boat onto the trailer through the upright guideons located at the back of the trailer and I attach the winch cable and bring it up to the bow stop. The guidons are a welcome addition that makes centering the boat effortless.
See my personal page for a pic of the boat on the new trailer.
1998 Dauntless 15 - 1998 Mercury 60 |
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| jgortva |
Posted on 06/02/15 - 1:35 PM
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Joz,
My old Calkins trailer has front mid and rear rollers, but as your rear pad, the rear roller does not make contact with the bottom of the hull. Almost looks like it was only there to keep the "V" in the bow from hitting the back of the trailer if the trailer was not fully submerged during pull out as the "V" would hit the roller first. Measuring the amount of trailer bunk out of the water as Gary0319 does will also work but I think it will be harder to mark the bunks and my memory for that kind of stuff is failing me so the red pinstripe I use is a no brainer. Just make sure the first time you are at the ramp it is not a busy weekend but rather a time when you wont be rushed.
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| dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 06/04/15 - 9:28 AM
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Hello Joz, my 1996 Daunless 15 sits on an Aluminum (Float-On) type trailer with no keel rollers with the one exception of a single 4 inch roller at the very front just below the bow stop which I will detail later. In my "Personal page" there is a side picture of my Dauntless sitting on the trailer with the forward keel roller visible and in use (at that time, pre-keel bunks).
My hull currently rests on two different bunk systems, the first system is the two main bunks where the only strakes or chimes are supported as I recall/read your does as well. I too at first had difficulty in getting my boat properly centered on the trailer even with the use of the rear guide poles as is typical of these trailer types. Typically the bow should be slightly more elevated than the stern when the trailer is sitting level. Remember this is only theoretical, the trailer has its tongue jack which will alter the rigs level per owners disgression.
Without seeing your trailers make-up, I would conclude the bunks should be somewhat height adjustable within there frame brackets/perches. I did not like the manner in which my Dauntless rested on the forward most keel roller once the hull made contact with the bow stop after winching. In fact the roller was causing light scuffs and marring the gelcoat, it is/was a (at the time) fairly new urethane roller. Check carefully your hull clearances front to rear before contemplating which bunk end to adjust up or down and remember as well to re-check bow stop to hull winching "U"-bolt alignment.
What I did a few years ago (and after observing various trailer styles especially with the high end "back-country" flats boats used down here in the Florida Keyes) was to install keel bunks sequentially with the main bunks so as to better support the hull weight and this also allowed for truely centering the boat when loading. The keel bunks are approximately 48 inches long and are made from 2" x 6" P.T. wood and covered with proper marine grade carpet. The mounting assembly was purchased on-line from a vendor in Sarasota Florida with some local sourcing (and a bit of custom fabrication/machining) to complete the build. As a visual aid when viewing my "Personal page" picture, the keel bunks extend approximately 6 inches or so rearward past the forward end of the main (larger) bunks and up to the 4 inch forward keel roller visible. Obviously the keel bunks are angled to compliment the hull but between them at the bottom trailing edges there is roughly 3-1/2 to 4 inches of spacing which if I decided to would allow me sufficient clearance to install a "Keel Guard" protector trim. One more plus of my set-up.
The only keel roller present that I mentioned earlier is used as a "safety rest" just infront of the keel bunks should something ever occur/fail the keel will never strike the trailer cross beam at that location. I remember reading sometime back that the 1994 through current Dauntless designs do not specifically require keel roller supports as do earlier generation Whalers, the hull design/running surface has a name that I can't quite recall at this precise moment which negates needing rollers. I could be wrong but hopefully a W/C member with knowledge on this subject may chime in their thoughts.
Joz there are many schools of thought on boat trailer set-up's and "convenience" add-on's, keel rollers are extremely beneficial as long as they are complimented by the overall set-up. If the hull design does not require keel rollers and your trailer is a bunk type consider researching keel bunks. I will try to get pictures of my set-up so you can review. Check in on this thread during the next few day for my update or just P.M. me with your email or look up my email (I think it's in my profile or not) but please don't post your email in a reply back...not safe.
Sorry for the lenghty write-up but I hope the information might be useful as you continue to ponder your trailer set-up concerns.
Best,
Angel M.
Edited by dauntless-n-miami on 06/05/15 - 6:27 AM
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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| joz |
Posted on 06/08/15 - 7:06 AM
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Angel, thanks for the lengthy email. It did help. To all who replied, I took the boat out this weekend and the ramp was quiet. I was able to back in a couple different times and figure out how the boat liked to be loaded. I marked a place on the bunks where the trailer was just barely floating, and that allowed me to make small adjustments to center it without it floating away on me. I think I'm going to add guide ons and mark those as well. The only other change I may make is to add two more keep rollers. I know it can't hurt, and the trailer is pre-drilled for the 8 inch roller bracket. Thanks for all the advice!
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| gary0319 |
Posted on 06/08/15 - 1:36 PM
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Just one additional comment.
If you can add keel rollers that are wider than 8" it helps a lot and keeps the keel from getting gauged on the roller mount. Your predrilled holes may actually accommodate a wider roller. I use Stolz 12" rollers on mine, but even a 10" would be an improvement over an 8".
1998 Dauntless 15 - 1998 Mercury 60 |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 06/09/15 - 8:36 AM
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I highly recommend side guide rollers for fast loading/unloading. They should be close to the sides of the boat 1-1 1/2 inches of space.
There is nothing better than having a long line of owners waiting to launch or retrieve stand in awe when you drop or load in less than 8 minutes singlehanded. Especially in a 5 kt. cross current.
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| jclark91 |
Posted on 06/19/15 - 9:05 AM
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Hello to all, first post for me. I purchased a 94 15' dauntless last year as a project and I have a question concerning the through the hull chase-way drain. I understand by reading past posts and looking at a 98 parts diagram there should be a clam cover over this outlet and my boat has no indication that is was ever covered? I comprehend the need for it. I'm wondering if most underway run plugged or unplugged? I have noticed in my cleaning/wash down that the rear scuppers are higher than the inlet to the capped chase-way. I'm assuming a certain amount of water will reach it's way to below deck and wondering the typical operation for most with a dauntless 15' ? Also can anyone point me in the direction of a parts diagram for a 94 model? There is some differences in the 98 diagram but that was the only one I could locate. Thanks. P>S> I may be posting in the wrong place, not trying to redirect the thread.
Edited by jclark91 on 06/19/15 - 9:07 AM |
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| gary0319 |
Posted on 06/19/15 - 10:21 AM
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I have a 1998 15 Dauntless and mine has the clamshell you reference. I'm assuming this is to drain the raceway sump when underway. However, the water goes both ways and with two heavy guys fishing from rear of the boat, water would cover the deck near the transom. Surmising that the scuppers would take care of any really large dump of seawater over the transom, I bought a plug for the drain hole and have run this way for the last 3 years or so. If the scuppers get stuck open (twig or seagrass in the flapper), the sump usually is large enough to accommodate the water. Most times my deck remains dry....., but after each outing, I remove the plug and some seawater does drain out.
1998 Dauntless 15 - 1998 Mercury 60 |
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| dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 07/09/15 - 2:26 PM
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Hello jclark91 and hope your enjoying the heck out of your Dauntless 15.
Is your Dauntless missing the Perko stainless "Clam-shell" drain cover? If it wasn't factory installed I would suggest leaving it off. I run a 1.0 inch drain plug on the inside of the aft rigging compartment drain port. I would prefer to keep water from entering the rigging tunnel (or race-way) when ever possible. I added a small Rule bilge pump (see my project album) in this compartment for removing any deck/scupper water that migrates into this area while boating with my family.
The reason I suggest not installing the Perko "Clam-shell" if your Dauntless never had it installed is; depending on your trailer set-up the clam-shell could interfer with support bunks if they were adjusted wide.
Hope this helps...
Angel M.
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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