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Been reading up on outboard repair / mods. One book recommends using an appropriate "test wheel" when tank testing. Is this a replacement for the prop, so you don't empty the tank running the motor in gear? (I saw that happen once!)
I think a test wheel mean a "special prop for use in a tank"...may be plastic prop, I do know that a test tank does not provide a good flow of water to the prop. Somehow this "test wheel" compensates. I have never seen one and do no think they are used much. I would not suggest running an engine hard in a tank, especially one of those large plastic containers used for chemicals.
BTW the Yamaha forum upgraded the site url]http://qs1272.pair.com/btsqs/bnetgroup/yamahaoutboardparts/forumdisplay.php?f=2[/url]
A bit easier to use and seems to be less spam. How's the trim situation coming along?
Good luck
Edited by joninnj on 07/20/07 - 4:21 AM
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!!
thanks, jon. I noticed that the old Yamaha site disappeared, but there was no pointer to the new site. I'll check it out.
Trim issues are lower on the list. For now, I'll be happy to get her running well. Trolling craigslist and local ads for a 90hp but will run the 115 if hull is done before I find one. Seems I can get a used motor cheaper if I'll take a boat with it! Might buy a boat-motor-trailer and swap out my motor with a better one, and then sell the other package. I have found some used trim units for the Yamaha115, but nothing that seemed like a prudent purchase.
Does the 115 run at all? Does it fire, anything? A used tim unit can be purchased for about $300 on ebay. Less if you hunt during the winter. I paid $60 for working spare although it did not work well. All I wanted the motor and that was perfect.
feel free to pm
the best
Jon in NJ
Many other boats and outboards in my boating history
The Whaler is the one I like the best!!!
Before I took it off the boat, I ran it for a few minutes with muffs. Started up and ran rough, was peeing fine, and I shut it down. Next time I turned the key to ON position (not Start) the alarm sounded, and I didn't take it any further. Motor is off the boat now, hanging from a chain on a scaffold. Once I flip the hull again, I'll mount it, change water pump, lower unit oil, and clean the carbs. I will definitely email you or post if I get stuck. Thanks, Jon!
A Test wheel puts load on the engine when run in water without generating the forward thrust that would cause problems in a test tank.
They are highly useful because certain problems won't show up when an engine is run in neutral.
I had an electrical problem that didn't show up unless the engine was under load - this is the only practical way to be able to watch and work on an engine under load.
Best approach on the engine IMHO is to run a compression test first, and if all is well (less than 10-15% differential between cyl numbers), you're out of the heavy stuff for the most part. Then check the elect. connections, esp the grounds on the power head as they can cause rough idle and are an easy check. If it's still rough, you can look into the carbs, power packs, etc. Looking at the plugs can also give a clue sometimes...
