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No, you just need to disconnect the connecting rod so that you can raise and lock the motor in the trailering (up) position. Then it's a matter of removing a couple of bolts and electrical connections to pull the entire hydraulic unit off. You will need to pull the whole hydraulic unit off to access/replace the electric trim/tilt motor.
What seems to be your issue? I thought I had a bad trim/tilt motor last fall until I tested the electrical connections. It turned out to be a burned out electrical relay(<$20) that is easy to replace.
Here is a good parts diagram resource for your entire engine if you don't already have one.
Mr. Brown, Thank you for the quick reply. Long explanation .....
The issue I believe is that the tilt/trim motor is not working. I can most easily explain to you what checks have been made thus far if you paste the following link into your browser. It displays the tilt/trim hydraulic assembly.
28 = tilt/trim motor with power leads (29), one green & one blue.
46 = piston rod for tilting motor, all the way up allows for me to trailer the boat/motor.
81 = trim rod assembly.
63 tilt/trim reservoir.
66 = relief valve with retaining ring (67).
I removed the retaining ring (67). Using a screwdriver, I turned relief valve (66) counter-clockwise a few turns which then allowed me then to manually raise the motor. After raising the motor manually, I closed turned this this valve clockwise until it closed & then secured it in the UP position with the lever (not shown).
The tilt/trim reservoir (63) is filled. I checked that.
I disconnected the electrical junction connector (78) that feeds voltage from the relays (not shown) to the tilt/trim motor (28) via a blue wire and a green wire. On the relay side of the connector, while pressing (alternately) the "Up/Down" rocker switch on my shift lever, I measure ~ +13 V at the blue wire feeding the tilt/trim motor when the switch is in the "Up" position & then when the switch is in the "Down" position I measure ~ +13 V at the green wire feeding the tilt/trim motor. In both cases the common of the voltmeter is connected to the engine housing which is grounded. When the rocker switch is not up or down, both wires measure zero volts. All of this conforms that voltage is being fed to the tilt/trim motor. I hear the relays click when I press the rocker switch Up & then down.
With all electrical connections made, I tried hitting the tilt motor (28) housing with a hammer in an effort to maybe dislodge the armature/commutator/brush mechanism which is housed inside, in the event it was slightly jammed rather than just simply broken. Still nothing when I pressed the rocker switch up or down.
You stated: "you just need to disconnect the connecting rod (do you mean #46, piston rod for tilt cylinder?) so that you can raise and lock the motor in the trailering (up) position. Then it's a matter of removing a couple of bolts and electrical connections to pull the entire hydraulic unit off (do you mean the three screws ( #12) securing the tilt/trim motor base to its reservoir housing?). You will need to pull the whole hydraulic unit (which #'s - the entire hydraulic housing assembly- pull it away from the transom?) off to access/replace the electric trim/tilt motor." Do I need to disconnect #46, piston rod, and tilt the rod/cylinder assembly aft so that I can get to the third #12 screw (forward/port screw)?
You are on the right track. Disconnecting #46 at the top of piston rod from where it attaches to the engine midsection swivel bracket is correct. You will then remove bolts labeled #83 & #84 in order to remove the entire hydraulic assembly. I had hoped to just tilt the assembly out to get to the #12 screws, but I found that it was better to take the whole assembly to the workbench.
A word of caution. The trim/tilt motor is the seal to the hydraulic reservoir. When you pull the trim/tilt motor off of the hydraulic assembly by removing the #12 screws, the hydraulic fluid will drain from the assembly. Have an oil pan handy. You will need a new #13 O-ring to complete the replacement and you may as well change out the hydraulic fluid while the case is open. Also, check the condition of the filter (#32) and keep track of all of the little oil pump parts.
I applied a direct 12v current to the tilt motor to test it before reattaching. You can determine then whether the motor is broken or if it is the oil pump (#71) causing the problem.
PM me if you need Part #28 - 0394176 - TILT & TRIM MOTOR.
You are correct.
I took a closer look last evening at the tilt & trim hydraulic assembly and now see now that the entire assembly can be pulled out by disconnecting the electrical leads & loosening the 6 bolts (3 per side: 2@#83 & 1@#84) plus the pin at the top of the tilt rod. I will gently tap the bolt heads and squirt PB Blaster on them as well as on the tilt rod pin and let that sit for a few days; and thus will try to avoid applying heat to the bolts as that could ruin seals, etc. I will attempt the removal this weekend, and determine if I can repair the motor (#28). I may be contacting you for a new Part #28 - 0394176 - TILT & TRIM MOTOR.
