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T-H Marine Atlas Micro Jacker for Sport 15?
wlagarde
#1 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/13 - 4:14 PM
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I'm looking into the possibility of adding a jack plate to my sport 15. This looks like it may be a good choice:

http://www.thmarine.com/products/Outboard-Jack-Plates/Hydraulic-Jack-Plates/ATLAS-hydraulic-jack-plates/Atlas-Micro-Jacker

Do any of you have any thoughts on what would be the best choice?


Edited by wlagarde on 11/28/13 - 4:16 PM
1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Binkie
#2 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/13 - 5:49 PM
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http://www.thmarine.com/products/Outb...ck-plates/


Rich
 
kamie
#3 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/13 - 5:58 PM
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Why do you want to add a jack plate? What problem are you trying to solve?

 
Joe Kriz
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Posted on 11/28/13 - 6:02 PM
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wlagarde,

I question the same thing.
The 15' models have a max hp rating of 70.
What are you trying to accomplish with your 40hp motor?


Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/28/13 - 6:06 PM
 
wlagarde
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Posted on 11/28/13 - 6:28 PM
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Well I notice that when I trim the outboard way up I can get a max speed of 35mph (GPS). At that point of course I begin to get some porposing unless the water is really smooth. I thought I could use the jack plate to be able to on-the-fly adjust the height of the engine to optimize top end while maintaining the ability to independently adjust trim.


Edited by wlagarde on 11/28/13 - 6:31 PM
1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
wlagarde
#6 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/13 - 6:39 PM
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I know I could just upgrade to a 70hp engine; however, I like idea of squeezing the most performance possible from this relatively light engine (~160 lbs) and also the fuel economy of a smaller engine.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
ritzyrags
#7 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/13 - 6:41 PM
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Mr Lagarde,
After having viewed your page,I think that I understand of your need to ad something to your Sport 15.
Your boat has obviously been well looked after and updated for some years now.
The viewed results from your personal page speaks volume about your care and attention for your favorite Whaler.
A jackplate could be possibly added to further your project but could be seen as not quite necessary for the style and model.
It may be time to look for another Whaler to start a brand new refit to occupy and have fun while doing it.


Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up..
 
kamie
#8 Print Post
Posted on 11/28/13 - 7:58 PM
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Do you have a GPS? What RPM are you hitting at WOT? You might try just raising the engine and see if that helps?

 
wlagarde
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Posted on 11/28/13 - 8:18 PM
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Right at 5600-5700 @ WOT. Because of the design of the transom I have limited ability to raise it. I suppose I could use a manual plate or build one? That would be cheaper and lighter.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Joe Kriz
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Posted on 11/28/13 - 9:24 PM
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What hole is the motor mounted in now?

All the way up?
All the way down?

See this article and let un know where you motor is mounted.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...cle_id=106

A smaller motor does not guarantee better fuel economy.
A larger motor just loafing along can give better fuel economy and MUCH longer motor life.


Edited by Joe Kriz on 11/28/13 - 9:26 PM
 
wlagarde
#11 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 6:25 AM
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Thanks Joe - I added pictures to my personal page that detail the way the motor is mounted. It came to me mounted this way and I assume the previous owner used both upper bolt holes along with the motor clamps to mount the motor to avoid using the lower mounting holes since they would be below the transom well. It also appears the previous motor had a non-standard hole pattern (see pictures). Let me know your thoughts.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
BowserImage
#12 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 6:53 AM
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Jack plates work great on 15'3" Sport hulls. They allow you to get the most out of your motor and reduce the porpoising. There is nothing standard about the Whaler sink bolt pattern. Some modifications need to be made to the Jack plate (drill extra holes). The micro jacker looks intriguing but I cannot tell if it would work with the extra holes. I use a T H Marine 4" Atlas model AHJ-4V-DP. I have also installed it on other 15'3" sports and it works great. It will improve the performance of your 40 and you can always still decide to upgrade to a 70 which it will also improve performance for.

 
jamesgt727
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Posted on 11/29/13 - 7:16 AM
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Ditto, 4" TH hydraulic Atlas Jacker is the sweetest on the market. I run it.

 
wlagarde
#14 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 9:00 AM
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I do like the idea of the on-the-fly ability to adjust engine height; however, I wonder if I could get near the same performance at a much lower cost by raising the engine 1 or 2 bolts if this can be done safely/properly. Can the lower bolt holes on the engine be utilized properly by installing blind end stainless lag screws? Would this be strong enough?


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
wlagarde
#15 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 9:32 AM
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To answer Joe's question directly the motor is mounted all the way down. The motor (NS40D2EPT02) has a shaft length 20" and the cavitation plate is just about even with the keel. I'm running a Solas New Saturn 12 pitch stainless prop.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
wlagarde
#16 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 9:59 AM
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Reading a little further I think I could manufacture an adapter plate like suggested here: http://www.whalercentral.com/articles.php?cat_id=10&article_id=82. This would allow me to securely mount the motor using the original upper and lower holes through the transom.


1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Joe Kriz
#17 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 10:43 AM
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Many people just drill those Green holes and raise the motor to 2 holes up and do not use any kind of adapter or Jack Plate.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=82

You would need to measure and layout those Green holes on both the inside and outside of the transom to make sure they will work for your motor.

Then you could mount any motor in the future as they all use the Standard Mounting hole pattern which works well.

There are several others here with personal pages describing how they drilled and use the Green holes.

 
wlagarde
#18 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 11:36 AM
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Thanks Joe - I guess the next thing I need to do is to raise the engine 1 hole and see what gain in performance I see. If I do (and I suspect I will) then I have confirmed that I will likely never want/need to mount an engine all the way down so going through the trouble of making the adapter plate is unnecessary. Fill the old lower holes with glass resin and drill the green holes and be done with it.


Edited by wlagarde on 11/29/13 - 11:55 AM
1976 Sport 15 w/ 2005 50hp Nissan 2 stroke
 
Joe Kriz
#19 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 11:59 AM
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Here is one members personal page.
Look at the last 4 photos.
http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...ser_id=291

Again, layout and measure the holes on the inside and outside of the transom before drilling to make sure. You may have to bend or grind a flat spot on the inside washers to clear the inside splashwell.

Good Winter project.

 
ritzyrags
#20 Print Post
Posted on 11/29/13 - 1:38 PM
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Great advise from Joe to be sure.
I have installed a first rate manual adjustment CMC Power Lift unit jackplate on my Classic Outrage 19 1975.
I am running a 25" leg and had to refer to the raising options given from the "PL" for my needs.
The addition of this plate will enable me to fine tune the height of my outboard and suit my needs.
For someone who want to invest a bit of time and money in order to fine tune speed and fuel consumption,
I would not hesitate to recommend this unit.
http://www.whalercentral.com/showuser...to_id=1644



Dont lie
Dont Cheat
And dont give up..
 
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