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I have a 1986 Boston Whaler Outrage with a Mariner 225hp engine on it (I believe it is a 1996). It runs good but I'm having a few issues that I need some advice on.
1. When trying to start the motor it doesn't seem to kick over 100% of the time. It is an electric start and when I turn the key it either starts right up or it seems as though the starter is not catching it and the fly wheel just spins. At that point the only thing that will get it started is removing the engine cover and pushing up on the throttle and then starting it while holding the throttle up. Should I adjust this or have a mechanic adjust it for me?
2. When out on the water, if I increase the throttle on the console the boat will slowly power up. I say slowly because it takes a few seconds for the boat to register the change in speed. However, I am not getting nearly enough power out of the throttle because it is pushed majority of the way forward and I'm not going max speed.
Then, when I decrease the speed, the motor has a tendency to stall out. This makes me want to stay at a much lower speed all of the time so that I don't have this issue and get stuck out on the water.
3. There is no "rev" button or mechanism on the throttle to increase the throttle without putting the engine in gear. Is this common?
Sounds like you need new control cables. If they get bent and kinked or simply worn out, that get sticky and that will wreak havoc with your throttle settings.
All control have a throttle advance button. I am sure yours is no different, though you do not say which control you have.
Are you sure the "flywheel just spins" or is it just the small gear on top of the starter just spins? I think there is a spring built into the starter which raises that little gear to engage the fly wheel, or it could be centrifugal force, but if the battery is weak or the starter worn the gear will not engage the fly wheel to start the engine.
I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
1. The gear that is on the starter motor does not have a positive engagement. It "climbs" a spiral drive groove, and relies on inertia to get it to climb up and engage the flywheel ring gear. If this groove area is sticky, the gear won't always climb up right away. Then you will just hear the starter motor spin. This area is supposed to be kept clean, not greased or oiled, but my experience is that if this is happening, a VERY SLIGHT SMALL SPRITZ of WD-40 on the spirals, just above the starter pinion will solve it. It is as much cleaning it as anything. It should NOT be "wet" with oil at all. that will cause more trouble later as dirt collects.
2. As for troubles? Need to check things like fuel feed, carbs being clean, fuel filters, fuel pump, hoses, fittings (sucking air? Do you have the right fittings (tank end versus engine end) on the right ends of the hoses? starting from the pick-up in the tank all the way to the motor and under the cowl. If all this is OK (first check because easiest) then get documentation (manual) and check electrics. The stator (alternator) under the flywheel has TWO "zones", and if the High-Speed zone is failing it can act like this, you won't get enough power for the ignition at higher RPM, so it just won't rev up. But then it will seem to run "slow" just fine. Then there are two sets of "switch boxes" (some call them Power Packs) one for each side which is where the spark power is generated to fire the plugs. If one or the other is acting up, it could behave this way. This would require spark testing. Do not crank the motor unless the spark plugs are wired and fully grounded, this can overload the ignition. There are "spark testers" for the purpose made. You can get a single position tool at most auto-parts stores. For an 8 position tester you need to order it usually, like $80 which is a lot I think, especially if you aren't sure what to do even if you find a problem.
3. Some controls, the simplest "side mount" units have a separate lever for high-idle. Others have a "button" in the middle of the pivot point on the handle. Press the button to release the shift mechanism, and push the handle forward for high-idle. Others, instead of the button, have a "pull out for high idle" method, they don't have the button, you grasp the pivot point of the control handle and pull it "out", while pushing the handle forward for high-idle.
I would address the starting issue by checking the condition of the battery and all grounds. The starter is not spinning fast enough to engage the fly wheel. If it is intermittent it might be a bad ground.
The running slow problem, sounds a lot like carbs need to be pulled and cleaned.
Both of the above are the simplest fixes and the things you want to check first. The starter thing could be just that a bad starter. The slow running thing could also be low compression on one cylinder. But I am still betting on carburetors.
