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motor won't stay running with this fuel tank
rfuerst911sc
#1 Print Post
Posted on 04/27/13 - 4:08 AM
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Posts: 178
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Joined: 09/25/11

I am nearly done with my restoration of my 13 ' Whaler with a 30 hp Johnson 2 stroke outboard. I have not had this in the water yet and only have run the motor in 2 - 3 minute bursts due to an overheat alarm. Dropped off the rig to a local marine mechanic and he corrected the overheat condition and he said it runs like a top. However he said it will not stay running on the portable fuel tank I provided but did stay running on their shop tank. I bought two 6 gallon Chrysler metal tote tanks that are immaculate on the inside no rust at all. I purchased a new fuel line/primer bulb and new fittings for the motor end and the tank end. Assuming the shop had the manual vent screw in the run position what else would cause starving fuel condition ? I have inspected the fuel line in the tank and it is not collapsed and the screen on the end appears to be perfectly clean. I am a little suspect of the Chrysler style quick connect fitting vs. the Evinrude/Johnson style should I convert the tanks to that style ? The shop said they recommend the plastic tanks but to be honest I'm not a fan of the plastic tanks. But if I did go plastic should I use a OMC style connector at the tank ? This is the last problem I have to overcome before putting her in the water.

 
zappaddles
#2 Print Post
Posted on 04/27/13 - 5:57 AM
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Posts: 478
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Joined: 06/03/10

Salt enviornment and a metal fuel tank is a no-go. Buy a new plastic tank with new fittings and go enjoy your boat.


If you can't play hurt....stay home.
 
rfuerst911sc
#3 Print Post
Posted on 04/27/13 - 12:57 PM
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Posts: 178
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I'm not playing in a salt environment and want to use the two tanks I have. Metal tanks worked just fine for 40 plus years. Metal vs. plastic does not solve my fuel starvation issue.

 
wing15601
#4 Print Post
Posted on 04/27/13 - 1:43 PM
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Posts: 699
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Joined: 07/14/12

It sounds to me like you are drawing air into the system. Give this a try. Start the engine and keep checking the primer bulb, giving it a squeeze every time it starts to get soft in order to maintain fuel pressure to the fuel pump. If that keeps it running, I'd guess you have an air leak or the fuel pump wasn't assembled properly. You know, when you initially prime the system you are filling the carburetor bowls and it may be running till it drains the bowls, as it will run for several minutes at idle on just the gas in the bowls.


I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport.
 
Buckda
#5 Print Post
Posted on 04/27/13 - 2:26 PM
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Posts: 325
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Joined: 01/15/07

I'm going to second Wing's advice above. Did you buy OEM hoses, or a knock off cheap-o brand from Wal-Mart? There is a big difference...I've had primer bulbs that were bad right out of the packaging, so I only buy Mercury or BRP branded bulbs at this point. Also, use metal fittings, not the plastic clamps - those plastic jobs are great for corrosion resistance, but are terrible clamps.



 
rfuerst911sc
#6 Print Post
Posted on 04/27/13 - 3:21 PM
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Posts: 178
Comments: 0
Joined: 09/25/11

I purchased OEM fuel primer bulb and metal fittings at the tank side, they have plastic fitting at the motor side. I'm guessing that the metal Chrysler style tank fitting is not pressing against the check ball in the tank fitting and then there is not sufficient fuel flow. I am going to try changing the tank side fitting to a Evinrude/Johnson style fitting to see if that helps. These tanks are in perfect condition and I want to use them vs. plastic tanks.

 
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