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I was installing a Mills suntop on my Montauk 170 this afternoon. Everything was going well until I was screwing in the second from last screw in the forward eyestrap when I torqued off the screwhead ( a #8 ) flush with the gunwale. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
I would try and drill it out. Not easy but it can be done.
Use a drill that is a little smaller than the diameter of the screw shaft, not counting the threads.
Once drilled all the way through, the walls should be thin enough to use an easy-out to get the rest of the screw out. I have done it many times. Just don't use too big of a drill.
That's a pretty small screw to drill through. I was wondering if you have a Dremel tool with the small cutoff wheel. I've had good success backing out wood screws by slotting the top of the broken shank, and then using a flat screwdriver to twist it out. If that doesn't work, the slot may help center your drill to do as Joe suggested.
One thing to be thankful for: you're hitting solid "meat" or you would have never torqued that screw off! Make sure to drill a pilot hole for the new screw!
Interesting. I have been removing various rail components on my 2003 170 to re-set with 4200 and when I tried to remove the (same?) screw the screw would not budge past about 1/4 turn ( same screw on both port and starboard). My bimini top has an adjustable mount for the aft bimini posts, and this screw is located about 3 inches aft of the forward most mount for the side rails. I figure something very tough must be in this location. I have thus far not stripped or broken the screws, but have tried to use a solvent to loosen it up. Thus far it seems as if I will have to remove it til it breaks and then try the extractor route that Joe recommends.
Nice Job ! I tried taking a short cut with a Jig saw this year, and cut the ignition wires on a new "Harness" (BETTER JOB) ! Mrs. "MW" said it was quite a display with a jig saw flying through the air, accompanied by a dance in the drive way, with "new" profanities invented. You might try a pair of needle nosed vice grips too. What I did to avoid this (i've done it too) was to take 3/4" stock mahogony (3"x5") or what ever your gun whale is (4"x6") etc, finished them (stain/Poly), then took "4200" adhesive and put them in place, (this would cover your broken screw perfectly without drilling out the screw) the next day after it cured, I shot 6 stainless steel wood screws down into the blocks (3 screws on ea side). I did this at all points where the "Bimini" attaches. this gives a "Bigger" foot print to hold the fasteners down, and adjustments (or a broken screw) can be made with out lots of holes in the "Whaler". The 4200 can be removed if neccessary, along with the blocks, to re-finish, just tape off the blocks, and finish them on the boat. Hope this helped...
Thank you Joe & DelawareDan,
This evening, I used a combination of your methods to remove the screw. Using a Dremel tool with an etching bit I made a small dimple in the top of the broken screw. Then using a very small drill bit I drilled a hole into the screw with the Dremel tool. I used the Dremel as it gave me a lot more control than a regular drill. Next I used an easy out and the screw backed right out.
This is my first boat, a 2007 Montauk 170. I have had it a little over a week and the Mills suntop is my first major addition. I just have the eyestrap to attach to the console rail (tomorrow evening) then this project is finished. Next… I hope to install the transducer. I have been really itching to try out the fish finder. Again, thanks guys.
I was not as fortunate with the extractor. The screw in question held down a 1" x12"x 1/2" high bracket which in turn held the rear bracket for the bimini ( so that it was adjustable fore and aft). The forward screw would not come out and I was afraid it would break. I tried the extractor and thought it was goin ok when it snapped-screwhead, extractor and all. I ended up with a screw sticking up about 1/2 inch, no head. Sooo, i tried another extractor but could not get it started and afraid to put too much downward pressure for fear of it breaking off. I tried a pair of vise grips but the threads prevented me from getting a strong enough grip to overcome the 'stuck' screw. I then took the dremmel with a cutting disc and cut a slot in the middle of the broken screw,such that I could then insert a medium sized flat screwdriver. With the screwdriver in the slot, I then attached a vise grip to maintain the integrity of the whole rig. The screw then came out pretty easily, with NO damage to the gelcoat, etc!
Before I started my project I spoke with a machinist on the best way to proceed with the removal of the snapped screw. He suggested using a socket on the extractor (easy out) and not a wrench as he felt it was important to apply even pressure to all sides of the extractor. A wrench applies pressure to only one side and is therefore more prone to breaking the extractor. Following this logic, a box ended wrench may work. I used a small socket.
