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I am looking at buying a 2003 Suzuki 4 stroke 140 for my 18 outrage. I bought the boat with an 1988 Johnson 140 that is locked up. My question is, how involved would running Suzuki controls be? Would I have to take the deck off? I was quoted $2,700 to run new controls and steering by a local marine shop which is not doable at this point. I'm pretty handy and determined but don't want to buy a motor if it's something I can'ttackle myself. Thanks for any help/advice!
I believe it's a job you can do. As you are removing the old cables from the tunnel, tie on a pull cable that you can pull your new cables and wires through.
I would second A's comment above. Try pulling the old cables back from the console.
Attach a thick string, rope to the end of the cable (i.e. throttle cable) at the console end. When you get it out, use it to pull the new cable back up. I would suggest the shift and throttle together, then the harness cables as a second group.
I have basic skills and I de-rigged the console and lifted the deck. It is not complicated. Doing it in an orderly fashion is straight forward.
If your old rigging has already been pulled out, get a "fish tape" from Home Depot or local hardware store.
It is like a really stout tape measure, but designed specifically for "fishing" cabling through inaccessible tunnels, conduit etc.
Work the tape through the tunnel from the console end first, then tape the console end of the rigging cable to the small hook on the end of the tape, then pull the cable through to the console with the fish tape. This method requires a wee bit or patience, but works. I rigged my 18 using a fish tape.
It's an easy job to re-rig an engine with new control and steering, and the fuel tank cover does not need to come off.
While you are doing it, I suggest new steering, either single cable Teleflex No-feedback, or hydraulic. The single cable converison is easy to do, and not expensive, maybe $275 or so.
First remove all of the old dual cable system from the tunnel, then the throttle cables and ignition harness. This will leave you with an almost empty tunnel except for electrical and maybe sonar wiries, which can them be cleaned up as needed. Be sure to remove the small side cover and bilge pump access plate also, which aids in access to the tunnel.
Install the new steering cable first, before attaching it to the steering helm. It can simply be pushed through from the stern, keeping the cable end protection securely taped in place. You need an 18' cable.
Then install the 18' control cables from the front, with the ignition harness and any other wires you need taped to them in a clean sliding bundle. They are stiff enough that they will go right through.
Always save one of the old control cables for use a "fish" in the future. They work well for this purpose.
Once you pull the engine harness, throttle/shift cables there isn't much left. If you take the opportunity to switch the steering there will be almost nothing left in the tunnel except maybe a couple power leads. If you look at my personal page you will see what an 18 Outrage looks like with the deck up. Should give you an idea about what's under there, helps to visualize where the cables are going.
