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PC-11
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/18/13 - 12:12 AM
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Have any of you use this product before? I was thinking of breaking up some Matt and mixing it in with this paste to fill the voids in my self bailing repair on my Boston Whaler harpoon 5.2 The cavity That I would be Filling As approximately 1 inch high and wire a 12:45 half inches deep, a rectangle. This is where there Boston whaler inserted would to install the self bailer.
PC-11 product link
http://www.pcepoxy.com/our-products/p.../pc-11.php
Edited by Joe Kriz on 03/30/13 - 12:00 PM
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/18/13 - 12:18 AM
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I guess the information I am looking for is how thick is the stuff and you think it would be necessary to put some broken up fiberglass mat to fill a void a half 1 inch thick?
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 03/18/13 - 7:48 AM
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I have in fact used the product, not on a boat but to repair broken ceramic prices. Once mixed, the past is VERY thick and VERY sticky. I would say it is a similar consistency to marine tex, but maybe a little thicker, so no, you would not be mixing mat or thickener into it. It probably wouldn't be possible.
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 03/18/13 - 7:53 AM
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Oh, and the technical term for what went there is an "auto bailer".
What not replace to bailer? They are really quite nice to have and are 10 times easier than bailing with a laundry detergent bottle.
Here is a page of examples. This is a good source. You could also probably find them at Jamestown distributors (who is running a free shipping sale now).
http://www.apsltd.com/c-6562-bailers-...anual.aspx
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/19/13 - 4:47 AM
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cwk6 wrote:
I have in fact used the product, not on a boat but to repair broken ceramic prices. Once mixed, the past is VERY thick and VERY sticky. I would say it is a similar consistency to marine tex, but maybe a little thicker, so no, you would not be mixing mat or thickener into it. It probably wouldn't be possible.
cwk6 Thank you very much that was the kind of information I was looking for. As far as automatic bailer I'm not sure if I'm going to replace mine or just replace the gasket and reuse them. I agree Jamestown has some good deals and being in San Diego California where I would not be taxed,about 10% here. Although my price on them here locally is less than what they are listing would probably a wash If was to replace the automatic bailer. Great information and again I thank you for replying to my post I appreciate that very much. Without having use this product I was wondering how thick it would be, being that I have to Force it into the cavity/probably with a putty knife. I plan on coming from the bottom with the template and a plunge router with a bearing on top to cut my hole.
Thanks
Kim
Edited by Guts on 03/19/13 - 4:50 AM
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| wing15601 |
Posted on 03/19/13 - 7:36 AM
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On the site of Chesapeake Light Craft at http://www.clcboats.com/ there is a "builders forum" where construction of the boat kits is discussed. They manufacture kits for stitch and glue sail, row and power boats and have sold and built thousands of boats using their methods. One of their most highly recommended epoxy fillers is sawdust. Not just any sawdust but stuff you buy from them or a marine supply which is more finely chopped than that which you would sweep up from the floor. Anyway, my point is that the sawdust is soaked with epoxy and is mixed to a peanutbutter consistency and is very strong. Most important, it's cheap, won't rot and once encapsulated and protected from sunlight will outlast you by many years.. Of course epoxy isn't cheap but if you're going to do it you may as well do it right and forget about it. Microballoons and other epoxy fillers are expensive.
I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport. |
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| pederj |
Posted on 03/19/13 - 9:35 AM
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Hi Guts, I did this same repair on a Harpoon 5.2 that I used to own. I used Bondo with fiberglass fibers already in the filler. I made a video of the process, I even made the bailer gasket from a neoprene mouse pad. It all came out great. I hope its ok to mention on this site the video is on youtube, seach "Boston Whaler Harpoon 5.2 Bailer Repair".
Good luck- John
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/20/13 - 4:58 AM
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pederj Yes I seen your video your famous, I like your idea cutting your own gaskets and 25 bucks apiece that's a really good idea. I haven't put my 5.2 in the water yet I've had it for almost a year and I'm getting really antsy to get her wet. Please don't take that wrong. From what I've read Bondo does absorb water to some extent. That's why it was thinking of going a Marine tax or PC 11. Anyway I'm already thinking about selling both of my boats this year. I'm looking at a documented 30 foot Catalina with a 25 horse diesel.
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/20/13 - 5:00 AM
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wing15601 wrote:
On the site of Chesapeake Light Craft at http://www.clcboats.com/ there is a "builders forum" where construction of the boat kits is discussed. They manufacture kits for stitch and glue sail, row and power boats and have sold and built thousands of boats using their methods. One of their most highly recommended epoxy fillers is sawdust. Not just any sawdust but stuff you buy from them or a marine supply which is more finely chopped than that which you would sweep up from the floor. Anyway, my point is that the sawdust is soaked with epoxy and is mixed to a peanutbutter consistency and is very strong. Most important, it's cheap, won't rot and once encapsulated and protected from sunlight will outlast you by many years.. Of course epoxy isn't cheap but if you're going to do it you may as well do it right and forget about it. Microballoons and other epoxy fillers are expensive.
Wow I'm impressed looking at your website I think this is the only Montauk that I've ever seen with the tower. Did you have to put some backing two mount it?
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| pederj |
Posted on 03/20/13 - 5:22 AM
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Hi Guts, I did have the same concern you had relating to the Bondo. The "normal" Bondo will absorb water. The "Bondo Glass" is advertised on the can as waterproof, and made for boats. I have seen other videos where the person working on a boat was using Bondo Glass. So I was comfortable using it. This with the fact the wood BW used originally as filler absorbed a lot more water then the bondo ever would. I also picked Bondo because it is a polyester based product, and the gelcoat would adhere well to it. There are a dozen different ways to make this repair, just pick the one you feel best about.
I do miss my 5.2. Good luck! - John
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| wing15601 |
Posted on 03/20/13 - 7:17 AM
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I've owned the boat for a little less than a year and the T top had been there for several years. It's pretty light and secured to the deck in 4 places with 4 screws in each place and also secured to the console in an additional 4 places so I don't think it will go anywhere. As I've said before, I would be better off without it because I can't get it into the garage and travel to the bow is narrowed by the legs. On the plus side I like the rod holders, the shade and the cockpit flood light .
I winter in Ft. Myers and summer in St. Joseph, Michigan. It’s now about 12 years since I’ve joined this group. I gave my 1972 whaler to my daughter and sold the 17’. Bought an O’Day 28 sailboat and sailed on Lake Michigan. Yesterday I bought a 2005 130 Sport. |
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| Guts |
Posted on 03/21/13 - 4:55 AM
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wing15601 wrote:
I've owned the boat for a little less than a year and the T top had been there for several years. It's pretty light and secured to the deck in 4 places with 4 screws in each place and also secured to the console in an additional 4 places so I don't think it will go anywhere. As I've said before, I would be better off without it because I can't get it into the garage and travel to the bow is narrowed by the legs. On the plus side I like the rod holders, the shade and the cockpit flood light .
Your T top is quite appealing to me. The reason I would want one is to fasten jig polls not your normal teaser polls but a solid pole that does not bend to attach jigs to. I used officiously commercially where the jigs are tied to the pole with a bungee in between. When you get a fish strike the line just goes tied into the water and then you have a tagline to pull it over to the boat and pulled my hand till fish comes to the boat then you throw them on the deck and becomes unhooked using Barb-less Hooks. Then you just toss the jig back in the water and grab the next tight line. When I jig fish there are no rods and reels on board. If you've never vicious ways kind of hard to describe. But you may have seen boats doing this. Anyway that's why I was asking about how it was fastened to the deck the one I have in mind would be considerably heavier than yours. I'm glad to see that you haven't had any problem with it coming was the deck. This is making me reconsider my thoughts about making one. I talked is to Pacific tuna towers here in California and they said aluminum was the best way to go not stainless steel which will crack. But they aluminum had to be anodized for the weather. Not just aluminum pole welded together. Anyway I'm being way off track here on this thread. thank you for replying.
Kim
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