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1982 18 Outrage Pulpit replacement
blakesanborn	#1  Posted on 06/04/07 - 2:18 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 82 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/29/07	I am sure you guys have addressed this before but my pulpit in the anchor storage needs to be replaced. I am worried that water is getting in the foam. How do I repair this? And is West Epoxy a good thing versus resin?
Buckda	#2  Posted on 06/04/07 - 2:14 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 325 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/15/07	Are you talking about a bow pulpit (mounted to the most forward portion of the boat and projecting forward about 18 inches), or a problem with the anchor locker? What makes you worried that water is getting into the foam? Is the wood pulpit split? The screws from the pulpit mount directly into a metal plate at the bow. Unless the fiberglass is damaged there, you should be able to back the screws out and re-seat them with silicone caulk to seal out any moisture. WEST System Epoxy is a prime brand, meaning it is a little more expensive and may have some performance and aesthetic benefits over a less expensive brand. The primary benefit they have is the mixing pumps, which ensure you have an appropriate ratio of resin to hardener. This ease comes with a cost - but I think it's worth it - especially for a beginner. There are other brands of epoxy, and once you're comfortable with epoxy, saving some money on these may not be a bad thing, but for a beginner, use the WEST system...it's beginner-proof! Let us know what you're trying to fix and the extent of the damage and we'll give you pointers on how to make repairs like a professional. Dave
blakesanborn	#3  Posted on 06/10/07 - 2:30 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 82 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/29/07	Thanks for the quick reply. I apologize for not responding quicker. I am reffering to the drain plug in the anchor bin. Where it enters the hull is damaged from beaching the boat. (Before I owned it too:o) Should I try to replace it? And what are some of the mistakes made when repairing it. Thanks. Blake
kamie	#4  Posted on 06/10/07 - 6:04 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	Blake, Pictures would help, but I am guessing that the brass tubes for your drains need to be replaced. If the area around the drain is damaged in the anchor locker, it's not likely from beaching the boat, but dropping anchors into the anchor locker. Depending on how bad things are you may need both fiberglass repair or just gelcoat patching. You probably should replace all the drain tubes in an 82, especially if you don't know the last time it was done. It's really not that hard and there are instructions on the site and plenty of folks to help. Do a quick search for 'drain tube' and take a look. If I am totally missing the point, then we may need pictures.
Buckda	#5  Posted on 06/10/07 - 6:41 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 325 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/15/07	Blake - Got you. The outboard end of the bow locker drain tube is damaged, under the boat. Okay - Kamie is right - do a search for "Drain Tube Replacement". Tom W. Clark is the master at this - and his instructions are found here and on ContinuousWave. This is an important (priority) fix if it's damaged enough to allow water to enter the tube cavity...either seal it now and fix it later or (better option), fix it as soon as possible - before you get back in the water. Good luck. Dave
Joe Kriz	#6  Posted on 06/10/07 - 10:48 AM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Here is Tom's article: http://www.whalercentral.com/readarti...icle_id=42 Also see this thread: http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...#post_7142
kamie	#7  Posted on 06/10/07 - 11:56 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	Looks like Dave is right, but my question would be, is it the tube itself or the clamshell that fits over it? I have a clamshell bent up pretty bad from bad trailer loading. I have beached my boat a lot, never on rocks, but my clamshell and forward drain tube are fine. Unless your digging the bow of the boat into the sand, the area where the drain tube is should not really touch the ground.
blakesanborn	#8  Posted on 06/12/07 - 2:14 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 82 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/29/07	Thanks guys. I am really considering sealing the drain completely. This would eliminate it all together. Just West it and forget it. Other then maybe having to pump it out on the occasion. It would eliminate the inner hull ever getting wet. Right? I just bought the boat last month and am really enjoying it. I find it really cool that people rush over to look at the wood and the classic whaler. It feels good to know that there is such a following. Kinda like a Harley.
kamie	#9  Posted on 06/12/07 - 5:31 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	Blake, I would not seal the drain. The reason the drain is there is to get the water out of that locker, which with a drain has multiple uses. Anchor storage, nice to break out the hose and wash all the river mud off the anchor and out the drain. Ice chest, put the plug in, slightly loose so water drains out but the ice stays in, and ice will last days. Mostly dry storage, with the drain in, relatively little water gets into the anchor locker with normal use, and there is lots of room for dry bags so they aren't rolling around on your deck. and finally safety, if the boat fills with water, that's one more way to have the boat self bail. I would hate to think the bow was filled with water I would have to pump out large anchor locker in the bow. All personal opinions, but closing the drain also removes the options listed above for the next owner of your craft.
blakesanborn	#10  Posted on 06/13/07 - 2:05 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 82 Comments: 2 Joined: 05/29/07	Not going to seal it. Actually popped the tube out last night and went to west marine and retro fitted another drain plug. It is plactic but should last untill I can repair it properly. Thank You all for the replies. Blake