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Kicker on a 17 Montauk
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 12/21/12 - 8:06 PM
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I realize this topic has been pretty well killed in other threads, but I have a bit of a specific question which I have been unable to find an answer to.
I plan to add an auxiliary motor to my 1985 Montauk this winter for both low speed operation and as a backup for the aging 90 horse Yamaha main. I boat on the Chesapeake, and, as anyone else who does can tell you, wind and chop are frequent factors in our boating.
I have an opportunity to purchase a newer four stoke Tohatsu four horsepower and I am wondering if it will have enough power to overcome any decent wind or chop, or if I will regret not getting a larger engine.
If four horsepower is not enough, how low do you guys think I can go? 6 HP? 8 HP?
Thanks for any info.
Edited by Tom W Clark on 12/22/12 - 8:51 AM |
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 8:54 AM
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4 HP is plenty for a slow troll but for what you describe, it will be marginal at best.
I'd find a 6 HP or 8 HP motor which are the ideal kicker sizes for a Montauk. 6 HP will take a Montauk to hull speed.
Regardless of what you choose, for motoring into a stiff wind, be sure to use a tie bar to connect the two motors together for steering. I like the stainless steel kit from Panther which is not expensive and very simple to rig.
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| Finnegan |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 10:00 AM
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I used to run an 8HP kicker on my 16' Nauset for offshore trolling on the Great Lakes. I went for the "8" because the "6" was the same weight, and I didn't want to take a chance of needed to run the engine wide open for resaonable headway in big seas, should it ever be needed.
Use a 20" engine bolted directly on the starboard side of the transom. Don't worry about the engine shaft being vertical, or parallel to the main engine. It will angle in slightly. There is wood re-inforcement in the hull for this purpose. If the engine does not have power trim (such as the Mercury "Pro Kicker" , be sure you lash it down against the tilt stop so it doesn't bounce out and drop down under main engine power.
Way back in 1971, the BW Owners Manual recommended that the engine be locked into the straight ahead positiion, and the boat steered with the main engine as a rudder. That eliminated all the tie-in extra steering gear cluttering up the boat. That is what I did, and it worked just fine. I do't know if that is still being done. I like clean rigging on a small boat like a Montauk. See my website photos, although I don't use a kicker anymore.
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 10:49 AM
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The 1971 BW Owner's Manual does not recommend the kicker be locked straight ahead, it says it's OK to do so if you use it for straight ahead full-throttle operation.
All the old Whaler catalogs all used to show the tie-bar in the "Operating Notes" in the back of each catalog.
Trust me, if you get buffeted by any wind, you need both motors to be steered together. I rigged a couple of my Montauks and my Outrage 18 exactly so and wouldn't have it any other way.
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| contender250 |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 11:37 AM
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You will need a 8-9 hp anything less, in bad weather, against the current, big load in the boat you will be sorry. Also you need to get the same type of engine that will burn the same type of fuel. If you are that worried about your old engine, every time you go out you will be questioning yourself (is it safe, will the engine die today, can I get back) I would rather trade in my engine and use the money for a new engine than having the kicker. And then purchase a sea tow contract. To each his own...
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 11:59 AM
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Thank you for the suggestions so far.
I definately sounds like I will want to pass on the 4hp.
I will definately plan to use a tie bar as my primary use for the kicker will be running a trot line which requires very responsive steering.
It sounds like finnegan strongly encourages bolting the kicker on, which I hadn't really considered. Is there a specific reason to this?
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 12:12 PM
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Security. Clamps alone tend to loosen up.
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 12:36 PM
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We have an article in our Article link on the left sidebar on installing a kicker.
The article shows a kicker being installed on an Outrage 18' and a Montauk 17'.
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=48
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 2:17 PM
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Yes, thank you joe. I had seen the article and it is very helpful. That's where I first saw the dual binnacle control for the kicker, which I would like to replicate.
Sound like ideally I will be looking for an 8hp.
Thanks
Cwk
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 12/22/12 - 2:22 PM
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Last question.
How essential is a high thrust prop for this set up? And what does one cost? (ie should I look for an engine with one already one it or is it a minor investment after the fact)?
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| Tom W Clark |
Posted on 12/23/12 - 8:11 AM
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For slow trolling it doesn't really matter but for what you are going to do, you definitely want to find as low a pitch and as large a blade area propeller as you can.
Small props like that cost $50-$75 so it's no big deal.
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| Whalerbob |
Posted on 01/24/13 - 6:46 PM
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I have an 1989 Montauk 17 with a 1998 90 Yamaha 2 stroke and a long shaft Yamaha F6 mounted directly on the starboard corner.
I'm also in the Chesapeake and use it extensively for trot lining. The tiller works perfect for single handed crabbing as it allows me to dip with my right hand and steer with my left. My top speed on GPS is about 5 kts with the standard prop, no need for high thrust or special prop and not sure if the transom would handle it anyway, that's why I didn't go F8.
Long shaft is key if mounting directly on the transom, almost no cavitation unless banking hard in reverse. I bought it in 2001 and the long shaft might be what pushed me to the F6 but don't really remember. F4 would be plenty of power for 99% of what I use it for and I use it almost every time I go out.
The only special mounting consideration is I removed the eye bolt so I could mount it closer to center and I attached it using 1/4" through bolts.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/24/13 - 6:56 PM |
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| Whalerbob |
Posted on 01/24/13 - 7:16 PM
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Here's a photo:
http://i1072.photobucket.com/albums/w...30_182.jpg
The only real down side of this install is you can see the handle hits the main but not sure what could be done about it and the scratches don't bother me.
Oh one more thing, that white wire connects the optional alternator to my 12 volt system. It's not enough to jump start the main engine if the battery is totally dead but it will provide a boost if the battery is marginal and if you run it long enough it will charge the battery and run critical electronics in a jam.
Edited by Whalerbob on 01/24/13 - 7:26 PM |
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