Before Posting, Please Read Our Posting Guidelines Below.
1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011 2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260 3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22 4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.
I can't maintain my outboard engine running longer than a 10 minutes a time. When the engine is cold, it fires right up just like the specifications call. At start up, the RPM's are around 1500, and then gradually reduce bellow 1000 after a few minutes as the quick start module takes effect. But just as fast as it started, all of a sudden it shuts off and it will not start. After letting it sit for some time, it will fire again. Keep in mind, I have replaced the temp sensor with a new one, checked the carbs for fuel, replaced the fuel filter, checked the oil mixing system and sender, replaced the thermostat, and performed all kinds of test without any indication that these components are the culprit of the problem. The only component that I have doubts with is the power pack. Can this component be intermittent? I have not replaced it yet because of the cost and I want to be sure this is what is causing the engine to shut down. Has anyone had the same situation or suggestion as to what can be happening with my engine.
Check the battery cable. If it is bad, as it heats up, the resistance may increase then the motor shuts down. Sounds similar to my neighbor who had that problem.
Really only a few things to check, does it crank after stalling? If so probably not a battery issue. Does it have fuel? take a quick shot of starting fluid and see if it fires for a second after stalling. Last does it have spark? Pull a plug, put a spark tester on it and check the spark,. I would check the spark color and strength before I started it and let it run and then you have something to compare it to. Power packs can definitly do heat up and the resistance can cause the engine to shut down and then not start but a few simple checks should lead you in the correct direction.
A bad fuel pump or air leaking into your fuel line will run the engine out of gas.
how about pumping the bulb as it starts to stall? any difference?
All these checks can be done in about 1/2 hr and the only costs are a 2.00 can of starting fluid and an 8.00 spark tester
I greatly appreciate everyones guidance with the issue. Hopefully, I will resume trouble shooting the ignition problem tomorrow and follow through with the recomendations fellow members have suggested. Today was a complete washout due to the weather and what should have been a simple job of replacing the water pump impeller, it has turn out to be an all day event caused by fronzen lower unit bolts in addition to not being able unable to reconnect the shift rod once I was ready to assemble the parts again. I decided to do this job first before tackling the ignition issue because the engine was taking
some time to spit water out of the pee hole once it started, and I just wanted to elliminate the possibility that too much heat around the power pack could make ignition intermitten and is shutting the engine down.
Just thought of a problem I had on my 120hp evinrude. It too would quit after running for a bit and it turned out the thermostats were stuck and the passages cloged solid with salt. Sure did make my power pack heat up and drop. After I cleaned the passages and thermostats the engine ran fine. Might chack that after the other simple checks. A temp gun if you can borrow one is also a great help trouble shooting
Thanks everyone for your thoughts on how to attack this issue. I carefully followed each and every step suggested in the replies and I think I finally found the problem. Today I invested in a spark tester to assure there was no spark when the engine stopped running. As usual, it fired right up and ran for 15 minutes more or less, and then stopped. I hooked the spark tester and there was spark only in the middle plug. I swapped the middle and top coil to see if the there was a change, but I got the same results. After performing this test and seeing the outcome, I figured the only possible faulty component would be the power pack. Once I saw what was going on, I gently tapped the power pack with a small rubber mallet while starting the engine to see if the engine would fire. The second I tapped the power pack while the wife was trying to start the engine, it fired right up. As long as I kept tapping on the power pack, the motor ran perfectly. Once I stopped hitting it, the engine would quit. So having said this, I decided the pack is bad and ordered a new one, and if by any chance it was not damaged; now it is because I completely took it apart!!!!!!!!!! I hope this fixes the problem.
Again, thanks to all.
