1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
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1966 13' BW Restoration Project
JCollier	#1  Posted on 09/09/12 - 5:45 PM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	I recently picked up my first BW for $250.00 and a double bowed row boat (worth about $500). The boat came with a sweet trailer in great condition and and a 40hp Evinrude Long Shaft. The boat has more spider cracks then I care to count, a few good sized chips and gouges, and missing a rub rail. The interior has a ton of holes drilled into it and a couple of patches. Needless to say I have a lot of work to do over the winter time. And that my fellow BW Lovers is where you come in. I am looking for suggestion on filling the spider cracks on the hull. I have sanded the boat with 80 grit and did a once over with 100 grit. I would prefer to not go down to the glass and was wondering if anyone had any suggestion. Also, for the interior. I am going to sand down the trouble spots and fill them in appropriately but dont want to touch the rough service and am looking for suggestions on how I can repaint the entier interior baby blue without spending too much time on the rough part of the interior. I also received a free biminie top from my boss that is in perfect condition however it is a bit wide. Is there a way to take it apart and take 12" out of the middle. I dont weld... Finally, downloaded the Super Sport interior specs and will be cutting and finishing new Mahoganny interior. Any thing I should be aware of as I set out on my journey? I will post pictures soon. Thanks in advance for your comments! Edited by Joe Kriz on 09/09/12 - 7:10 PM
Buckda	#2  Posted on 09/09/12 - 5:56 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 325 Comments: 2 Joined: 01/15/07	This is a big project, but I'm sure you'll learn a lot and do a fine job if you take your time. A word of advice from someone who's done a few Whaler projects... Set forth a budget on a spreadsheet. Once you've meticulously gone through that budget and think you have a good, firm number from actual quoted sources for materials, etc., double it. Then add another 10% for extra materials. For instance, if you think you'll spend $1,000, your actual budget should be more like $2200. I guarantee you'll come closer to the higher number than you will to the lower number. BTDT. Have fun - the little boats are easiest to flip, sand, refinish, etc.
JCollier	#3  Posted on 09/09/12 - 6:06 PM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	Oh yeah, I expect that...
Joe Kriz	#4  Posted on 09/09/12 - 7:13 PM
Site Owner Personal Page Personal Album Photo Albums Project Albums Posts: 11447 Comments: 452 Joined: 03/18/05	Changed the title from the 2 digit year to the full 4 digit year of 1966. Please see this post http://www.whalercentral.com/forum/vi...d_id=15197 Edited by Joe Kriz on 09/09/12 - 7:16 PM
JCollier	#5  Posted on 09/09/12 - 8:43 PM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	Thanks Joe, sorry about that.
Derwd24	#6  Posted on 09/10/12 - 1:06 PM
Member Posts: 1607 Comments: 9 Joined: 05/09/07	Take a look at this members personal page for how he dealt with all the inside hairline cracks. Came out great and he tells me it's holding up very well over time: http://www.whalercentral.com/infusion...r_id=18789 Edited by Derwd24 on 09/10/12 - 1:07 PM Dave - 1983 Outrage 22
JCollier	#7  Posted on 09/13/12 - 5:49 PM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	Thank you for the link. I have finished sanding the hull, tried to leave as much of the bottom paint on as possible except where I needed to fix fiber or gel coat damage. I will be flipping the boat this wekend and deciding what to do with the interior...take it down and resurface or clean it up. Leaning towards taking it down with 100 grit and resurfacing. Also, dowloaded the super sport interior specs and would like to put that seating style in the boat. How do you tell if it was originally a super sport or does it not matter b/c all seating will fit in the whaler as long as the year is correct. Does that make sense?
kamie	#8  Posted on 09/13/12 - 6:07 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	The year doesn't even have to be correct. All the 13 footers are the same size so any interior configuration will fit. Since there was no Super Sport model in 1966, it probably left the factory as a bare hull, standard (tiller motor) or a sport (remote steering). If you really want to know you can email chuck Bennett with your stencil number and see if Whaler still has the records.
JCollier	#9  Posted on 09/13/12 - 6:27 PM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	How do I get ahold of Chuck?
kamie	#10  Posted on 09/13/12 - 6:34 PM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	cbennett@whaler.com
JCollier	#11  Posted on 09/15/12 - 6:00 AM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	So I found an Interlux product, Interlux 2000, that can be used on the hull to address the grazing. Not sure how much I need but thinking a quart of gray and a quart of white. which will allow for 2 coats. I am stripping the bottom paint as I was a dope thinking the bottom paint also acted as a water protection coat...it doesn't. Anti-Fowling paint is just what it says it is. So I am going to strip the AF and coat the entire bottom in the interlux and prep it for painting. Then I will get to the interior. any thoughts?
JCollier	#12  Posted on 12/31/12 - 4:29 AM
Member Posts: 7 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/09/12	Restoration is coming along...lot's of sanding. I am ready to start the interior but can't find complete and accurat Super Sport specs. Anyone have any suggestions?
kamie	#13  Posted on 12/31/12 - 5:59 AM
Member Personal Page Project Albums Posts: 2975 Comments: 3 Joined: 11/04/05	try the downloads sections
tedious	#14  Posted on 12/31/12 - 7:22 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1072 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/07/08	Sounds like you're making good progress. Good to see you understand the need for a barrier coat on the hull before bottom paint. It's not an uncommon mistake to make and I have seen boats ruined because of it. Regarding the interior, a couple of thoughts. 1) For me, the stock interior is too low, so if you are building from scratch, raising it might be a consideration. You can see my approach on my personal page. 2) Although I prefer to do it myself for most things, for a full interior I would consider buying one. By the time you source good wood, find plans, and building it I don't think you save much. Good luck and happy new year! Tim
John Fyke	#15  Posted on 01/02/13 - 4:15 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1307 Comments: 0 Joined: 09/06/06	I bought the mohagany interior from Nautical Lumber for my 1979 15' sport and converted it to an SS. You wont find any wood to secure the larger console to so you will have to make arrangements to secure it another way. John Fyke Re-Fit or Reef It 1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury.
Silentpardner	#16  Posted on 01/02/13 - 5:27 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 593 Comments: 1 Joined: 06/12/11	I am currently addressing spider cracks in my interior glass by attempting to take the entire surface down to the glass and then re-gelcoating all the areas that are not whaler checked non-skid. The no-skid checking is as good as new, it's just the slick areas that have the cracking. I will let you know how it goes... I am really wanting to keep the original checking, but if I can't match it exactly, I'll have no choice but replace it.