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1987 Yamaha 90HP 2 stroke housing crack
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| AirSav |
Posted on 08/28/12 - 11:19 AM
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OK, it's been a few days of near of an empty feeling, but reality is reality. Somehow, I have a crack in the housing of my lower unit sorounding the prop. Oil appears ok, and no issues otherwise, runs great. I've reached out to some respected folks who probably said the same thing most of us would come up with, so my question is this...
Any similar experience in guiding me to the best decision?
I'd like to upgrade some day and my son has his eye on this Classic 1987 Montauk, I hate to just give it to him with a paddle, and it's provided endless enjoyment.
Fire when ready...thank you.
Edited by Joe Kriz on 08/28/12 - 11:49 AM |
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| Phil T |
Posted on 08/28/12 - 1:55 PM
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Post some detailed photos. In many cases the crack can be welded and you are good to go.
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| CES |
Posted on 08/28/12 - 3:05 PM
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X2 what Phil said.
The welder will have to remove the internal seals and parts to prevent them from getting damaged durin the welding process however it's a job that gets done on a regular basis.
Either weld your old one or find a replacement lower unit.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| AirSav |
Posted on 08/29/12 - 10:28 AM
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Images uploaded to my page, two images.
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| CES |
Posted on 08/29/12 - 10:42 AM
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AirSav wrote:
Images uploaded to my page, two images.
That can be fixed. I'm surprised your gear oil isn't contaminated by water. I wouldn't use the boat until I got the lower unit repaired.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| mtown |
Posted on 08/29/12 - 3:01 PM
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I had almost identical crack on my 1985 Yamaha 70 hp. I let it get to where it was actually starting to seperate as I could get no marine repair place to weld it even though I was willing to sign and hold them harmless if seals ect. were damaged. Finally with the piece literally ready to fall off, I trailered the boat home 150 miles and took to the mechanic that works on my work trucks. He removed the piece and heli-arced it back in place in about 10 minutes. I sold that motor [running fine] about 5 years later. I never changed the seals or any other part prior to or after the repair. Heli-arc is "welding alumium" and generates a lot less heat than welding iron. I would monitor my lower end oil, and if it is milky not waste the time trying to repair the housing, as your problem is not like mine was.
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| msd58 |
Posted on 08/30/12 - 2:55 AM
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AirSav wrote:
OK, it's been a few days of near of an empty feeling, but reality is reality. Somehow, I have a crack in the housing of my lower unit surrounding the prop. Oil appears ok, and no issues otherwise, runs great. I've reached out to some respected folks who probably said the same thing most of us would come up with, so my question is this...
Any similar experience in guiding me to the best decision?
I'd like to upgrade some day and my son has his eye on this Classic 1987 Montauk, I hate to just give it to him with a paddle, and it's provided endless enjoyment.
Fire when ready...thank you.
There was a guy in Delran NJ who used to do welds like this all the time. He has retired. YOu will will have to ask around at local shops to see who still does in your area.
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| dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 08/30/12 - 9:49 AM
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Hello Air Sav, from the pic the crack appears to be located along the length of the bearing carrier which is probably why it hasn't leaked yet. The one thing that could hinder heli-arcing the damage is salt contamination in the immediate area.
The salt water corrosion in the aluminum could "boil-up" or "pop" from the heat and ruin the welding process. The unit might be savageable but some dissassembly may be required, at minium the bearing carrier and immediate seals.
Glass beading or sand blasting the inner and outer areas to be welded could be very beneficial in removing most of the visible contamination followed by some grinding along the edges of the total crack. This will facilitate a fillet type weld which will provide added strength with better weld penetration. This will also allow for post weld sanding / grinding for finish detailing and paint. Some epoxy may be required for a better surface blend.
You may want to check on Craigs List for an available used lower unit or housing. I do heli-arc welding (or T.i.G. as its also know by) and surface preping is very important.
Food for thought for your dilema, good luck.
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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| jimmyrinaldi |
Posted on 08/30/12 - 12:20 PM
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I had a similar crack in mine and it was covered by my insurance. My 1992 90HP Yammy now has a 2008 lower unit... Worth a phone call...
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| AirSav |
Posted on 08/30/12 - 5:34 PM
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Thanks to all. Looking for lower unit should it lead to that. I'm guessing between the hurricane and Labor Day, this will have to wait.
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| CES |
Posted on 08/30/12 - 5:57 PM
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If everything goes right, it shouldn't take you more than 30 minutes to pull the lower unit....even with a little rain coming in.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| jimmyrinaldi |
Posted on 09/05/12 - 9:54 AM
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That is exactly what mine looked like... My repair guy reported it to my insurance company as a strike crack and it was covered... good luck !
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| AirSav |
Posted on 01/14/13 - 1:40 PM
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Hey guys, hope the new year is well for everyone.
Question- I might have found a lower unit from a 70HP early 90's Yamaha. I'm wondering if it will fit on my 90HP 1987 Yamaha to replace that lower unit?
Thanks
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| vin197922outrage |
Posted on 01/27/13 - 10:28 AM
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I have seen this happen to lower units that have the carrier retaining ring corrode to the point of swelling out and cracking the housing.Since you will have to remove the carrier and retaining ring to weld it the retaining ring should be replaced with a new one.
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| dauntless-n-miami |
Posted on 01/31/13 - 12:50 PM
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Hello AirSav, if memory serves me right the yamaha 70 and 90 hp have different lower units. Maybe not visually but internal. Check with Yamaha just to be sure.
Edited by dauntless-n-miami on 01/31/13 - 12:52 PM
1996 Dauntless 15, Sportsman Pkg. - 2007 Yamaha 90 HP 2-Stroke |
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| AirSav |
Posted on 02/08/13 - 3:49 PM
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vin197922outrage wrote:
I have seen this happen to lower units that have the carrier retaining ring corrode to the point of swelling out and cracking the housing.Since you will have to remove the carrier and retaining ring to weld it the retaining ring should be replaced with a new one.
Thanks for the feedback on the housing crack. It'll have to wait a few months, hoping to find one on the Island or nearby. Nice Outrage.
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| Guts |
Posted on 02/09/13 - 5:09 AM
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Try some JB Weld if you don't have the money to fix it correctly. My opinion there is corrosion, and it's expanding causing the cracks. So it still will expand and crack try some JB Weld it might work
Edited by Guts on 02/09/13 - 5:10 AM
Guts/AKA/Kim |
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| mtown |
Posted on 02/09/13 - 6:25 AM
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I just re-read all that has been posted, including my own. I may have mislead you with my last sentence. If you are getting water in your lower end your problem is different from what happened to mine. However, if you do not have water in your oil it is a simple task for any decent welder to repair. Mine was much more opened up than yours.
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| NJjohnmontauk17 |
Posted on 02/12/13 - 6:58 PM
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You could talk to farbeyondfabricating dot com in Bayville NJ. assuming that is near you.
He has done TTop welding for me & is reasonably priced and honest.
1984 Montauk |
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| fsantoraii |
Posted on 02/15/13 - 1:44 PM
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I had the same problem on my 1985 Yamaha 90 hp. On mine both sides of the housing work were broken out and gone. Cracked just like yours is in your picture. I took to pieces of schedule 40 aluminum pipe and cut and fitted them into the to the shape of the opening left behind by the holes. All the pipe was four-inch diameter. I take welded them in. Welding and short pieces normally not more than three quarters of an inch at a time and cooling to piece down all the way into where I can hold my hand on it after each weld it. It took about eight hours for me to weld both sides in and then grind back. You have in your picture what you have there is a lot more than what I had to start with your repair. The three most important things that you have to remember when welding like doing this sort of welding is that them metal needs to be clean clean and clean you need to make sure the debt aluminum is squeaky clean before you start weld on. And don't get greedy when you start welding considers you soon as a stark look-alike is really welding well you have to stop or else you'll burn the seals up. I did mine without taking the seals or anything out. And probably have about 80 are 90 hours on it so far with no troubles whatever. This problem is very fixable.
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