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1987 Evinrude 150HP Manual - Maintenance Question
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| tothemax |
Posted on 03/19/12 - 8:03 AM
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1987 Guardian with 150hp Evinrude: New to us last summer
I've been looking for a 1987 Evinrude Service manual: It looks like there are 3 versions on the motor - my motor has been painted a few times - where is the best place to find the model number?
Evinrude 1987 150 150STLCUR
Evinrude 1987 150 150TLCUR
Evinrude 1987 150 150TXCUR
It looks like this manual covers them all - are there better manuals, suggestions?
http://www.marineengine.com/parts/par...l=150TLCUR
I'm working on a parts list: Engine To Do list...
Engine ran rough last year with on and off power surges, better after fuel filter change - one thread recommended carb rebuild.
1) Compression check
2) Re-install VRO system (removed by previous owner, VRO tank came with boat)
3) Replace all fuel lines and connections
4) Rebuild carbs
5) Service lower end and impellar
Other To Do's:
1) Replace drain tubes - removed corroded tubes and left open over the winter (previous owner had sealed them off)
2) Rebuild steering cylander - leaking from cylander
3) Replace Rochester fuel gauge (is stuck in position and has moisture inside)
Any other recommended items that I should be looking at?
Thanks,
Max
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| Alan Gracewski |
Posted on 03/19/12 - 9:55 AM
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Max, I used to own a 1985 Evinrude 150. It was a real fine outboard and we had few issues with it. I sold it after owning it about 20 years on our 19' Revenge because I could not take the boat on Lake Tahoe in California due to the CARB (California Air Resources Board) certifications necessary. If you think the engine is in suitable condition for fixing and running some more, I would recommend getting good service literature. I don't know how detailed the manual you cited is, but via outboardbooks.com, you can get copies of the original literature. That includes the owners manual, parts list, service manual and service manual supplements. They are a division of kencook.com and cover outboards made before 1996. I have obtained several of the manuals from them, and while they are not cheap, they are the original info and excellent for troubleshooting/rebuilding.
All that said, my recommendation to you would be to restore all the engine components to the original configuration (like your carburetors and related fuel lines/drains). You don't need to restore the VRO unit so long as the fuel pump is providing fuel. You can run 50/1 premixed gas. There is a lot of debate about VRO versus premix on Whaler Central. Let me just say that I ran my engine from brand new with the premix because I did not want to worry about the VRO failing (and there are lots of stories about those that did). I never had an oil related issue in the 20 years I ran the engine. I would also recommend methodically going through all the systems and eliminating them as causes of your intermittent/surging problem. Rebuild/clean all the carburetors and check the fuel system, but don't overlook the ignition system. The V6's had two CDI powerpacks so if one failed the engine could still get you home on 3 cylinders. If one of the ignition systems is not working properly, it could cause surging too. The powerpack, ignition colis, or charge coils and related wiring could cause such a problem.
Another item I would recommend looking closely at is your lower unit (I see you have it on your list). It is old enough to suspect that the seals may be leaking or close to leaking. The condition of the oil when you change it can tell you a lot, and you can pressure test the lower unit to determine if the seals are holding.
I will close with the only issues I had with my engine. After about 10 years operation, one of the cylinder head gaskets failed. The high pressure gas from the running cylinder blew into the cooling passages keeping the water out, and the engine overheated. Solution was simple as the cylinder heads get removed and head gasket renewed. We had (still do!) a trolling/get home outboard too, so that got us back in to shore. As part of that episode, the charging system also failed because the rectifier is cooled by water (it sits on the top of your engine between the top cylinders in the "Vee" ...no water, no cooling...pooof goes rectifier. But that was easily replaced as well. Other than that, it was a real powerhouse and very reliable.
Good Luck!
Al
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| Silentpardner |
Posted on 03/19/12 - 10:39 AM
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Pull the cowling and look for a rectangle shaped area about 3/4" X 1 1/2 inch that is smooth with engraved model number. That was the easiest place to locate it on my Johnson.
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| tothemax |
Posted on 03/19/12 - 11:08 AM
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Thanks for the tips...
It looks like the weather is going to hold here and I can uncover enough to get some info off the motor and get some part numbers.
Alan,
I'm torn on the VRO as you have said there are mixed comments. This Guardian has a 50g belly tank and it would be nice to be able to let our 8hp kicker (4 stroke) share that same fuel supply. The compression check should give me an idea of the condition. Appreciate the info on the CDI packs...
The surging acted almost like giving the motor partial throttle while trying to get on plane (even though the throttle was full ahead) - then all of sudden the power would kick in and it would jump on plane. It would run fine for a while and then do it again. All of the fuel hoses are in pretty poor shape and I'm not sure how clean the tank is so it coule be a fuel system issue.
We got a good deal on the boat so it's time to take care of the little things.
Edited by tothemax on 03/19/12 - 11:09 AM |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 03/19/12 - 11:33 AM
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I would never consider removing the VRO on any engine unless a person just can't afford to replace the pump...
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| tothemax |
Posted on 03/19/12 - 12:35 PM
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I read this article a while back on VRO and it makes good sense about the RPM's and crankcase pressure regulating the oil mix.
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/refe...e/VRO.html
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| artodea |
Posted on 03/20/12 - 5:42 PM
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Max,
The 507618 service manual is what you want. Much better than a Seloc or equivalent. It's certainly worth $60 but you might find a used one on Amazon or ebay if you are persistent.
As for the model number, the "X" means 25" shaft, "L" is 20" - so your Guardian would likely have the 150TXCUR
1986 Outrage 18 with a 2008 Evinrude 115 e-tec |
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| tothemax |
Posted on 03/21/12 - 4:00 PM
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artodea wrote:
Max,
The 507618 service manual is what you want. Much better than a Seloc or equivalent. It's certainly worth $60 but you might find a used one on Amazon or ebay if you are persistent.
As for the model number, the "X" means 25" shaft, "L" is 20" - so your Guardian would likely have the 150TXCUR
Thanks, good stuff
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| tothemax |
Posted on 05/10/12 - 5:14 AM
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The Johnson \ Evinrude Service manual arrived today and should be getting started on projects next week.
I looked over the VRO parts that came with the boat, basically a tank and hoses and it doesn't look like it would take much to add it back into the system. Since it has been plugged off for years it may be better to replace the fuel pump to make sure that the VRO pump section is working properly.
With the 63 gal tank with the current oil mix in there I'm just wondering if I'll be able to get the fuel level to almost empty and switch over without trying to drain the tank.
Is there enough access at the pickup tube cap to clean out the tank or is it best to leave it alone and not stir up any settled sediment?
Will appreciate any input as this is new territory for me...
Also: If I get this switched back to a VRO system what would be the recommendation for a Tee connection for a fuel line to my 8hp kicker. Maybe an inline check valve on the motor side of the filter?
Edited by tothemax on 05/10/12 - 5:18 AM
2005 Dauntless 220 |
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| artodea |
Posted on 05/10/12 - 4:57 PM
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tothemax wrote:
The Johnson \ Evinrude Service manual arrived today and should be getting started on projects next week.
I looked over the VRO parts that came with the boat, basically a tank and hoses and it doesn't look like it would take much to add it back into the system. Since it has been plugged off for years it may be better to replace the fuel pump to make sure that the VRO pump section is working properly.
With the 63 gal tank with the current oil mix in there I'm just wondering if I'll be able to get the fuel level to almost empty and switch over without trying to drain the tank.
Is there enough access at the pickup tube cap to clean out the tank or is it best to leave it alone and not stir up any settled sediment?
Will appreciate any input as this is new territory for me...
Also: If I get this switched back to a VRO system what would be the recommendation for a Tee connection for a fuel line to my 8hp kicker. Maybe an inline check valve on the motor side of the filter?
I would just hook up the VRO and run it with the premix currently in the tank. You'll probably smoke a little until you use it up but you won't harm the engine with an effective 25:1 mixture. That way, if there is any problem with the VRO portion of the pump you at least have the premix to keep things running fine.
Good luck!
- Art
1986 Outrage 18 with a 2008 Evinrude 115 e-tec |
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| tothemax |
Posted on 05/11/12 - 8:23 AM
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Appreciate the comments - really looking forward to getting a few of the long term projects done for this season.
Max
2005 Dauntless 220 |
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