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Here's a question i don't believe i've ever seen posted. My new to me 25 should be home in a week or so after i recieve my replacement bow eye so i can trailer it again to have the bow rail made to marry up to the new bow bulpit, which is now installed.
The new boat lift i installed to accomidate the 25 is now a bunkers type, cable lift instead of the sling type i used to have. The two new bunkers are 2X12's about 15 or so feet long, and have composite strips on the tops instead of carpet.
So, my question is, is there a correct angle the top of the bunkers should be to marry up with the angle of the bottom of the hull. Or, is it something you eyeball and do the best you can? I'm worried the bunkers will not mate up to the bottom of the hull, and will dent, cause harm etc to the bottom of the boat.
Any suggestions, or recommendation are appreciated!
Hi Duf, Yes I would worry about it too. What I would do is find out what the dead rise is to your boat and copy that to the bunks on your lift. Cut the edge of the bunk to match the dead rise angle.
Edited by whalerman on 02/19/12 - 3:02 PM
THOM : 1999 Outrage 18, 2012 E-TEC 150, 2012 EZ Loader trailer
I use a Shore Master boat lift for my 17 Montauk. The bunks are vinyl covered 2-by's afixed to a bracket that allows the board to be angled to allow the bunk to fit flush against the contact point on the hull. When I installed the lift, I took some initial measurements to properly locate the bunks from the standpoint of 'width' and then tightened the brackets that allowed the bunks to 'tilt' to fit the hull just tight enough to allow them to stay in place, but move when pressure was applied.
I pulled the boat into the lift to fine-tune my 'width' adjustments a bit... (I did this in the water... taking the boat in and out of the lift while making the adjustments). When happy with the width... I made sure the bunks were angled to properly contact the hull and then tightened them down.
Took a bit of fussing... but once done, it was fine.
I use a Shore Master boat lift for my 17 Montauk. The bunks are vinyl covered 2-by's afixed to a bracket that allows the board to be angled to allow the bunk to fit flush against the contact point on the hull. When I installed the lift, I took some initial measurements to properly locate the bunks from the standpoint of 'width' and then tightened the brackets that allowed the bunks to 'tilt' to fit the hull just tight enough to allow them to stay in place, but move when pressure was applied.
I pulled the boat into the lift to fine-tune my 'width' adjustments a bit... (I did this in the water... taking the boat in and out of the lift while making the adjustments). When happy with the width... I made sure the bunks were angled to properly contact the hull and then tightened them down.
Took a bit of fussing... but once done, it was fine.
Mike
I just did this on my trailer. It worked perfect. I would have just measured the deadrise but I didn't have all my tools with me at the boat ramp where I worked on the trailer.
Appreciate the info. I figured that if i angled the bunkers the same as what my trailer is, it would be ok, although my trailer does have the usual carpeting for the bunkers instead of the composet that my boat lift now has, but believe i'll wait till i get the boat back and "fine tune it" for a better fit.
not all of it Cliff. Extended it out to the right another 12 feet to accomidate the additional length, and put in a boxed area to allow the T-top to go through the deck and still be inclosed. When to double lift motors, and an aluminum bunkers type lift instead of the sling. Its a pretty good size deck now and feel better about the bunker lift over the sling, as years ago was advised that wasn't the best way to lift a Whaler.
