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Sorry Drain Tube ?
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 01/18/12 - 10:19 AM
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I'm worried about flaring the tubing, plus I would not have any help what so ever. I have removed my old tube. Has anyone ever just epoxy the tube in place, do you think this would work? Looks isn't that important to me, maybe leave it stick out a little and flare it back with epoxy or how about 5200. Thanks
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| zappaddles |
Posted on 01/18/12 - 10:57 AM
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harly,
Here is my reply to your situation on a differant
Zap
Gusgus,
This information will be from one novice to another.
1) I found a suitable diameter PVC tubing by taking a drain plug with me to a home center. I don't recall the specifics of the find though.
2)As far as the install goes I was in the process of completly re-gelcoating the Nancy G when the tube was replaced so some of the install details weren't important to me that may well be important to you.
3) One important step will be to re-drill the existing hole at the proper angle to accomodate the larger outside diameter of the PVC. To accomplish this at the correct angle I used a Fortsner bit and drilled the appropriate size hole into a small block of 1" thick oak. I then attached this oak to a piece of 1/4" plywood of sufficient length to allow me to clamp it onto the transome (my engine was already removed). After aligning the hole in the oak I then tightened the clamps and screwed the plywood into the transome using one common drywall screw. All of this was done in order to redrill the hole w/o having the bit travel as the drilling process was started. This also help maintain the correct angle so I wouldn't end up with a drain tube that ended below the bottom of the rigging tunnel.
4) I then beveled the end of the hole about 1/8" to allow step number 10 to be more effective.
5) After roughing up the outside of the PVC I carefully coated the the inside of the PVC with vaseline (anything to prevent epoxy from sticking can be substituted for vaseline).
6) I then slathered onto the PVC and into the newly re-drilled hole a generous coating of West Systems Thickened G-Flex.
7) To help distribute the epoxy be sure to rotate the PVC as it is inserted.
8) Extended the PVC into the rigging tunnel opening about 1/2" to allow one to finish-off the end in a manner that would be more water tight as well as less likely to catch debris.
9) The PVC outside of the boat was left 3-4" long to allow it to be gripped during installation. It was trimmed to extend about 1/8" past the transome after everything set up.
a) Use masking tape to help prevent the epoxy from running out of the hole.
be sure to remove all traces of the vaseline prior to cutting the PVC to length
10) I then sealed the beveled portion of the hole (see step 4) with 3M 5200.
11) After all of this cured I shaped the area to my satisfaction and began the gelcoating process.
As for longevity of the material, in this application, is concerned I have no idea. However, from time-to-time I closely examine the area for signs of seperation between the gelcoat and the PVC or for cracking of the PVC and have yet to find either.
Zap post.
If you can't play hurt....stay home. |
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| cwk6 |
Posted on 01/18/12 - 12:45 PM
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I have not done it so I am no expert but I do not think installing the tube is difficult. I think it is just the need for specialty tools that people shy away from. I would also not epoxy in brass.
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| mtown |
Posted on 01/18/12 - 12:45 PM
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I have followed all the drain tube posts, even though I have never had one rot and need replacement. I did not even do it last year on my 1964/ 16 despite re-glassing the entire bottom and stripping the boat bare. My examination of the tube in the stern revealed nothing that I felt was failing so I left it alone. I have owned this boat 25+ years and done virtually nothing but band-aids as required so I owed it something when repowering. Just as an experiment, I inserted a CPVC water pipe inside my existing drain tube, and used simple silicone caulk at the two ends. It was water tight and worked fine, but was hard to find a plug for. I used it most of last summer and then removed it as the silicone was allowing it to move when I removed the drain plug. I am back to original set up. Having said all that, I feel if I had wanted to coat the entire length of CPVC with silicone or more agressive sealant, it would have been fine for a long time. If it failed, simply remove the CPVC and brass and do what has been discussed here.
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 01/19/12 - 9:57 AM
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I was hoping not to have to buy the tool to do this. I just thought this might work because this is how people do it with pvc. With pvc it is epoxy in but you have to drill the hole bigger, so I thought I may be able to just epoxy the brass in.
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| Blackduck |
Posted on 01/19/12 - 11:10 AM
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You can buy the tool for $20, Sea-Dog Marine-
Edited by Blackduck on 01/19/12 - 11:16 AM
Walter Reynolds
1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha |
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| gusgus |
Posted on 01/19/12 - 12:21 PM
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harleydmn wrote:
I was hoping not to have to buy the tool to do this. I just thought this might work because this is how people do it with pvc. With pvc it is epoxy in but you have to drill the hole bigger, so I thought I may be able to just epoxy the brass in.
That is the issue with me as well. Drilling the hole larger sets the need from then on to use PVC. I would rather have that option if brass becomes tough to find. Not that I will live long enough to ever need another tube, but it would be nice to know my son could have this boat for many years to come.
1987 Outrage 18 W/150 Merc and 8 Honda |
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 01/19/12 - 5:34 PM
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See this article on our site.
This is how the newer Whalers are when both the inside and outside walls are at 90ยบ to the tube....
http://www.whalercentral.com/articles...icle_id=94
Edited by Joe Kriz on 01/19/12 - 5:35 PM |
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 01/20/12 - 4:20 AM
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Just ordered my brass from Sue. Does anyone near Balto. have a flaring tool they like to rent or sell?
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| wrangler |
Posted on 01/20/12 - 6:00 AM
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Just My opinion.
The brass tube on my 79' Montauk went in 1999.
Why replace it with the same thing? Whaler went to plastic, Why not me?
Whaler part # 1073071 tube, 1042084 nut
Some 3m 5200 and never have to worry about it again.
So far in 2012, same as it was in 1999.
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| harleydmn |
Posted on 01/20/12 - 6:12 AM
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Sue told me I would have to enlarge the hole in my boat, so, since that don't sound like fun I went with the brass. If it made it 40 years so far, I guess it will make it for my life time.
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| rfuerst911sc |
Posted on 01/20/12 - 1:32 PM
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Is it obvious when the tube is bad ? When I look at mine the flared ends look good and when I shine a light into the tube it seems good. I don't see obvious holes or gouges what am I looking for ?
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| gusgus |
Posted on 01/20/12 - 11:46 PM
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rfuerst, I found mine easily. The rotted brass was exceptionally easy to see something was wrong. I suspect it would be similar in all if not most failures. You know? The green goo from Brass oxidation and smoke like trails running down the boat from the drain tube?
It sounds like you have nothing to be concerned about.
1987 Outrage 18 W/150 Merc and 8 Honda |
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| rfuerst911sc |
Posted on 01/21/12 - 3:41 AM
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guggus thanks for the reply. I guess to be safe I'll run some type of brush into the tube to clean her up so inspection will be more thorough. My boat has plenty of issues but it looks like the brass tube might not be one of them. I do have to replace the tube in the engine well that one is missing.
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| gusgus |
Posted on 01/21/12 - 6:07 PM
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I bought both sized flaring tools and plan on using them and reselling them. BUT,,,,I am a very slow guy, especially since I am draining a wet hull. It happens really slowly. One drip at a time, just like our presidents. I believe (laughing) I may get those tubes installed by mid summer.
It sounds like the drain tube which you have missing might be thru the transom. That opens a few concerns to me. One is wood condition around the missing tube. This means rot. You should look into that before installing a tube back in.
1987 Outrage 18 W/150 Merc and 8 Honda |
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