1. Use the full 4 digit year for everything you are asking your question about. Example: 1962, 1988, 2000, 2011
2. Include the correct name of your Whaler model. Example: Montauk 17, Montauk 170, Outrage 26, Outrage 260
3. Include the length when necessary. Example: 16, 17, 18, 20, 22
4. Do not post your email address anywhere on this site as it is already in your user profile.

Planning for next season: 1989 Evinrude 150
tothemax	#1  Posted on 11/16/11 - 11:12 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 232 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/11	This year I had little time to use or put into the our "new" 87' 18' Outrage. A couple things I noticed this year and would like to address before next season: 1) Engine always seems to eventually start, but can be difficult sometimes - I'd like it to be a dependable start -- The last owners instructions: pump up fuel bulb, 2 pumps on throttle, 3/4 throttle, push for choke, try twice. If it fails here the starter will do a quick disengage. After that, if you play around with different combinations and it will finally start. - I figure it could be due to improper oil mix or dirty carbs (or both) I replaced the racor fuel filter. I plan to replace all of the fuel lines over the winter. 2) Engine runs rough, not horribly but there is a little shake at idle and if the idle fluctuates it sometimes stalls (when warm it starts right back up) but still is not what I consider "dependable". I realize this is pretty vague but figured this was a good place to start. I can do a compression test and some basic maintenance over the winter. 3) VRO: the previous owner remove the VRO system, he gave it to us. With the 55 gal belly tank it's near impossible to know how much fuel is in it. I was reading the article from Continuous Wave on VRO and they are saying it's a pretty good system. Is it worth re-installing? 4) Manual tank Fuel guage: Ours is fogged and seems stuck in one position - I figure it's worth replacing. Will appreciate any info...
Blackduck	#2  Posted on 11/16/11 - 11:27 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 519 Comments: 0 Joined: 02/25/06	I would clean the carbs and reinstall the VRO system. Walter Reynolds 1973 Boston Whaler 16 Nauset 90 HP Yamaha
tom blinstrub	#3  Posted on 11/16/11 - 12:00 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 369 Comments: 0 Joined: 12/14/09	For piece of mind I would look for a kicker motor over the winter if you boat in the ocean.
tothemax	#4  Posted on 11/16/11 - 3:45 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 232 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/11	We keep to the upper Chesapeake bay and have a dependable 8hp Kicker. Basically it was the right boat at the right price, and we knew it would need some TLC and eventually a repower, but it would be nice to get a few years out the current one. I've done a lot of mechanical work just never with large 2-stroke outboards. I've just seen a number of posts with members running older outboards... Max
Tom W Clark	#5  Posted on 11/16/11 - 4:26 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	A 1989 Evinrude 150 should not be hard to start. I owned a 1990 Johnson 150 (the same motor) for over ten years and never had any trouble from it. The stating procedure the previous owner described to sounds just like what I used. I would start by verifying the primer is working. It is actually not a choke, per se, but a primer that squirts raw gas into the carbs for a cold start. What you describes sounds exactly like trying to star an engine cold without any prime.
Tom W Clark	#6  Posted on 11/16/11 - 4:56 PM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	The fuel gauge may, or may not work and if it does not, it may be the dial itself, or it may be the float in the tank that is not working. These are two different and non-connected components. You need to verify which part is not working so you can replace it. Also, the fogging may be the dial itself or it may be the deck plate not making contact with the face of the dial. The dial is supported on two springs that force the dial up against the underside of the clear deckplate. It is not uncommon for those springs to corrode or get gummed up. If there is any space between the face of the dial and the deck plate, it will be very hard to read the dial. Lastly, the fuel gauge needle will not move until quite a bit if fuel has been used up. It does NOT read linearly. I bet you have to burn through 20 of the 63 gallons in the tank before the needle budges off the FULL mark. If it seems stuck on FULL, that may be all it is right there.
tothemax	#7  Posted on 11/17/11 - 5:16 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 232 Comments: 0 Joined: 08/13/11	Tom, I appreciate the info... Like I mentioned beyond installing the 8hp kicker and cleaning up the battery mounting I haven't had the time to do much on the boat other than a few short outings. Next year I'd like to get some bay time in and have the motor running well. If reinstalling the VRO is a good idea that would let me convert the tank back straight gas and fuel both motors off the main tank - my Yamaha 8hp is 4 stroke. It's very low hours and dependable - and then worth getting the remote control kit for it. It's a pain having to carry an extra fuel tank. I'll have to get a manual on the motor - I thought pushing in on the key activated an electric choke. I've rebuilt quite a few carbs over the years but a little gunshy on this set up as there is considerable linkage and not sure about the synchronization. I would guess that most of the new motors are fuel injected? If I can get a couple more years out of this one I'd be happy. I was wondering about the fuel guage accuracy - we have a 36' catamaran with a flat tank under the cockpit area - it either reads full or empty. Still it would be nice to have an idea when you are running low (I'll check what you mentioned). If we install the VRO I don't think converting from oil mix will be an issue. I have a Raycor filter after the tank, the first few tanks should clear out any residue. On the positive the mix may have protected the inside of the tank. We may have some water in the tank well area, but I'm not ready to pull the deck and console this winter. Thanks for the info Mike Edited by tothemax on 11/17/11 - 5:29 AM
tedious	#8  Posted on 11/17/11 - 6:00 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 1072 Comments: 2 Joined: 09/07/08	Hi Mike - I spent a couple of years with a 1989 Johnson 70, so some advice based on that: - get the factory service manual - the aftermarket ones are junk. It'll cost you about $70, but is well worth it. - carb rebuild and linkage adjustment (link'n'sync is what they call it) are straightforward with the factory manual in hand. - checking the primer solenoid's operation is not difficult - just see if it's getting power when you push the key in, and then see if it's opening to let fuel squirt through. - adding the VRO back in should not be tough IF the VRO fuel pump is still working. The manual will show you how to test that. - these motors aren't particularly smooth at the best of times, but a carb rebuild and a link'n'sync should get it as good as it can be Also, I do have a primer solenoid for sale in the classified here - if you need one, check the part number and see if it will fit your motor. Tim Edited by tedious on 11/17/11 - 6:02 AM
Tom W Clark	#9  Posted on 11/17/11 - 7:49 AM
Member Personal Page Posts: 4280 Comments: 7 Joined: 09/30/05	If the boat is new to you, by all means put some hours on it and run it hard. That may smooth things out right there. I have a friend who recently bought a used Montauk with a 1987 Mercury 100. When he first got it I encouraged him to go ahead and use it a bit even though we were going into winter. When he first did he reported the boat was slow to accelerate and its top speed was about 5 MPH less than what I thought it should be. I told him the best thing to do was run it hard with fresh fuel, be sure to use the best two stroke oil and, of course, raise the motor and install a better prop. He did all of those things and over a series of weekends he put a little time on the old motor. He now reports the boat goes 5 MPH faster, accelerates much better and he is very confident in its reliability. It turns out it is a fine motor after all and he has not made a single adjustment under the engine cowl. Outboard motors are like people; they need exercise too and two strokes especially like to be pushed hard.