Mounting Outboard Controls
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kamie |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 5:42 AM
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I am getting ready to mount the controls for the new outboard. I taped the template down, drilled the holes and got out the jig saw. The blade that I had was a generic all purpose blade which lasted exactly 2 seconds before it was too dull to cut. Do I need some industrial strength blade, or lots of generic ones and change often?
thanks
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Mike |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 7:51 AM
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Kamie,
One blade should be sufficient to make the cut-out. I'd use a blade designed for cutting laminate or even a bi-metal blade - just so it had relatively fine teeth. Place masking tape between the holes you drilled( to minimize chipping), mark the paths, and go ahead and saw.
Good luck with your project,
Mike
Edited by Mike on 04/27/07 - 7:53 AM |
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 8:38 AM
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kamie,
Now you have me real curious... You say you bought a new console..
What was wrong with your old console.
What kind of console did you buy?
Any photos?
If you take some photos of the project as you go along, we can add them to the "Project Gallery" photo section..
Edited by Joe Kriz on 08/22/09 - 12:20 PM |
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kamie |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 9:34 AM
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I bought a new late 80's console from Whaler. I was going to regelcoat the old one, but I really wanted it to be desert tan and match the boat. I decided since there was a new console available from Whaler, I would order it and sell my old one. I had already ordered a new windshield two years ago, along with new RPS legs to finish the RPS I had picked up. Once she is finished, there will be a new console, new windshield, refinished RPS and a mix of old and new canvas.
Here are a couple pages of photo's. Once I complete the installation, including the Outboard I will do a single page from start to finish.
http://kamie.homelinux.org/kamie/html..._2006.html
http://kamie.homelinux.org/kamie/html...gress.html
Edited by kamie on 04/27/07 - 9:38 AM |
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native_texan |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 10:32 AM
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if you don't mind me asking.....how much was the new cc from whaler w/ shipping? thinking about doing the same!
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kamie |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 11:26 AM
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Cost from Whaler was $900 plus shipping which depends on where you are. If you are going to order one, be specific about what cutouts you want done or how. On mine they did the cutouts for the doors but the later doors are larger than the teak versions I kept. I ended up recreating the door frames larger to accomidate the larger openings. I decided not to send it back, although that was an option.
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Joe Kriz |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 5:19 PM
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kamie,
You are doing a complete restoration there.
That is a lot of work. Looks great....
Saw blades and tools.
Jig saws cut upwards and therefore tend to chip the gelcoat.
I have always used a fine toothed hacksaw blad with the teeth pointing forward so it cuts on the downward or inward stroke. This way it minimizes chipping of the gelcoat.
I do have a jig-saw but prefer not to use it for gelcoat cutting. I do not have the other fancy tools that others might have to make the job faster so I do it by hand.
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kamie |
Posted on 04/27/07 - 6:25 PM
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Thanks all,
I got a fine metal blade and it looks like I only have two tiny chips to repair, and those may be covered by the housing. The real important thing was to confirm the distance so I knew if the teak box I wanted to install on the top of the console would fit and it will.
I will do a start to finish projects page once I get finished. Keeping my fingers crossed that the new outboard shows up soon. Two weeks has turned into four.
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