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13' Super Sport Interior Installation
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| lb2141 |
Posted on 10/31/11 - 10:53 AM
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I am in the process of restoring a 1966 13' Sport. The interior is beyond repair and I am looking to buy a new one from one of the two sponsors. I originally planned on just replacing the sport interior but the more that i look at the super sport interior, the more practical it seems.
My question is.. The super sport console definitely appears to be wider than the original console. Is the wood underneath the deck on my boat wide enough to catch the screws? I am afraid of missing the wood and just screwing into fiberglass/foam. Was this interior designed to be installed only in hulls that were shipped as super sport's? I looked at the pdf wood diagram but since I don't have the measurements of the super sport interior, it would be just a guess.
Thanks in advance for the replies, the knowledge from this forum has turned this into an obsession lol.
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| creichart |
Posted on 10/31/11 - 1:29 PM
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I'm doing the same thing on same boat!
not sure of the wood, though I know there are wood diagrams online...haven't looked for them yet.
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| creichart |
Posted on 10/31/11 - 1:31 PM
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Boston Whaler Wood Locating Diagrams
http://www.whalercentral.com/download...?cat_id=12
Edited by Joe Kriz on 10/31/11 - 2:10 PM |
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| creichart |
Posted on 11/01/11 - 6:06 AM
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jeez, quick on the edit there!
I had a look at your pictures and it looks like your project is coming along nicely.
i have only removed the interior so far, no sanding/grinding of the topsides or bottom...What is the brown compound your using - West filler?
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| lb2141 |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 12:47 AM
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So does anyone know if the super sport console is too wide to screw into the deck and catch the wood underneath? I downloaded the wood locating diagram but I can't find dimensions of the SS console and I doubt either of the two merchants are willing to give them up. I am close to pulling the trigger on the super sport kit I just want everything to fit properly for the money I will be spending.
creichart - correct the red/brown compound on the chines is West System 407 filler. I'll post some more updated photos this week. I've started using 410 filler on the hull sides, hopefully I can get them nice and flat by long boarding. I'm sure there's an easier way then mixing together all these small batches of epoxy but I paid for the stuff so might as well use it.
On a side note, if it weren't for the sentimental value of this third generation whaler, I would have backed it off a cliff a few months ago and smiled. It's been a mixed bag of feelings on how far I should take it with restoring this boat. I truly enjoy the project and like watching the transformation but let's face it.. its been stored uncovered in the same place since before I was born. Water intrusion has made me seriously consider throwing a tiller on it and calling it a day but I've made it this far ($$$), might as well do it the way i originally intended to. Thank you again for all the help!
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 5:17 AM
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I would answer the question regarding the wood location by answering this question. Does BW put the wider console in the same exact hulls at the factory. I don't know if there ever was a 1966, 13 foot Super Sport model or if the hull was changed over the years to accept the wider consoles.
We do see very often where the exact same hull was used for various models and the actual model of your boat is determined by the interior furniture. If they made a SS console back in 1966 and used the same hull then I would say you are safe to use either console.
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| CES |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 6:01 AM
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I've installed a larger console in my 1966 than what probably came with the boat.....my console is out of a 15' BW. What I did was simply fasten the console to the front seat and made a felt lined foot to rest on the deck. This eliminated the need to drill into the deck.
Take a look at my project page for more details.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| creichart |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 11:47 AM
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lb - I hear you, this boat has been around the family since the 60's. I'd love to put a little stand up center console for fishing the flats, but no dice for all the kids that are around - need to slap in a sport or SS interior and get it going again...just stripped the boat of everything except the motor and bow pin. Trying to decide now if I should flip it and sand by myself or send to a soda blaster for $500-$1000. Anybody have a thought? in some places i'm at fiberglass (or foam!) others there are 5-6 layers of paint, though that's mostly on the topsides. (Boat is in CT near bridgeport)
cliff - I like your idea. How did you attach the console to the seat?
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| CES |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 12:08 PM
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creichart wrote:
cliff - I like your idea. How did you attach the console to the seat?
With an "L" bracket attached to the front of the console and up underneath the bench seat. I rebuilt the console in 2009 and it's held up very well over the past 2 1/2 years.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| dpdash |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 5:01 PM
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when I redid my late 60's 13, I didn't pay too much attention to where the wood was in the floor, I mixed up some west epoxy and layed that down below the wood, then screwed them in. Rock solid
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 5:27 PM
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You will be fine attaching it to the front seat.
Edited by John Fyke on 11/03/11 - 5:32 AM
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| CES |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 6:10 PM
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John Fyke wrote:
I put an L bracket fixed to the front bench seat on CES's boat.
That's funny, I seem to remember doing that work. Hmmmmmm.....I don't think you had ANY part in my complete console rebuild back in 2009 there Fyke. Quit stirring up problems on WC, this isn't the place for it.
Edited by CES on 11/04/11 - 8:52 AM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| John Fyke |
Posted on 11/02/11 - 9:14 PM
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CES wrote:
John Fyke wrote:
I put an L bracket fixed to the front bench seat on CES's boat.
That's funny, I seem to remember doing that work. Hmmmmmm.....
Ok.
Edited by John Fyke on 11/03/11 - 5:35 AM
John Fyke
Re-Fit or Reef It
1979 15' Sport with Super Sport conversion and 70hp mercury. |
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| kamie |
Posted on 11/03/11 - 4:25 AM
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lb2141,
it is wider but don't worry too much. When you screw the block to the deck, I would drill the holes, make sure you countersink the gelcoat so it won't crack and use a good caulk like boat life on the screws. There isn't really a lot of stress on those screws. It is important to countersink the gelcoat so you don't start cracking when you screw into it and caulk is important because you want to seal against water.
As for using an L bracket to fasten the console and the front twart seat it's clearly possible. The one nice thing about whaler's interior design is that you can remove the twart seats for more room.
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| creichart |
Posted on 11/06/11 - 11:28 AM
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so what's up with the golf tees?
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| lb2141 |
Posted on 11/06/11 - 3:02 PM
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creichart wrote:
so what's up with the golf tees?
I got the idea from someone else on here. They are epoxied into a bunch of holes from an old rub rail. They actually worked really well. I used a cutting wheel on the dremel and cut off the excess on both sides and faired over the gunwales out with 407.
Hoping to get started on the sides this week with the micro balloons. Not looking forward to board sanding but it should turn out nice when its finally finished.
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| creichart |
Posted on 11/06/11 - 6:57 PM
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hmm, interesting...i've now got the 50 grit on the belt sander ripping layers off!
I'd love to hear what people recommend as far as building up from glass/gelcoat to bottom and topsides respectively.
I am planning on sanding down, letting "dry" over the winter, then begin to fill, fair w 407 and 410. What is recommend for a base layer, epoxy barrier coat? then prime, then paint?
I should probably start a new thread for this...
thanks!
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| Binkie |
Posted on 11/06/11 - 8:16 PM
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Don't screw the console to the floor just anywhere. The glass is only about 1/4 inch thick or less. It won't be long before vibration will cause the holes to enlarge, the console will lift slightly and water will seep into the foam. Not good. The wood strips under the floor won't match up with a non factory console. There is an easy fix though. It has been explained here before, and is archived, here it is. First drill holes through your wood cleat and through the floor. The drill will sink right in when it reaches the foam. OK, now remove the cleat and you have a couple or more holes in your floor. Now enlarge the holes in your floor with a larger drill bit, Maybe use 1/8, or 3/16 drill bit. Next take an allen wrench Chuck the long end into an electric drill and stick the short end through the hole and pulverise the foam under the hole. Now take a vacuum and suck out the pulverized foam. then drill a small hole about 3/8" from the large hole. This is an air escape hole. Mix up some slow setting epoxy, and pour it into a small squeeze bottle and squeeze it into the hole untill epoxy comes out the air hole. Now the void is filled with epoxy, and when its cured can be drilled and will hold a cleat better then wood. I've done this many times and never had a problem.
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| lb2141 |
Posted on 11/06/11 - 10:07 PM
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Binkie wrote:
Don't screw the console to the floor just anywhere. The glass is only about 1/4 inch thick or less. It won't be long before vibration will cause the holes to enlarge, the console will lift slightly and water will seep into the foam. Not good. The wood strips under the floor won't match up with a non factory console. There is an easy fix though. It has been explained here before, and is archived, here it is. First drill holes through your wood cleat and through the floor. The drill will sink right in when it reaches the foam. OK, now remove the cleat and you have a couple or more holes in your floor. Now enlarge the holes in your floor with a larger drill bit, Maybe use 1/8, or 3/16 drill bit. Next take an allen wrench Chuck the long end into an electric drill and stick the short end through the hole and pulverise the foam under the hole. Now take a vacuum and suck out the pulverized foam. then drill a small hole about 3/8" from the large hole. This is an air escape hole. Mix up some slow setting epoxy, and pour it into a small squeeze bottle and squeeze it into the hole untill epoxy comes out the air hole. Now the void is filled with epoxy, and when its cured can be drilled and will hold a cleat better then wood. I've done this many times and never had a problem.
Binkie - That's the perfect solution I was looking for. I never thought of doing that. Thank you.
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