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Trailer Refurbish - Winter Project
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| madmax79 |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 11:50 AM
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I currently have a trailer for my 17' Montauk and it is in bad shape. The brand of the trailer is unknown.
It is currently a bunk only setup. The issues are as follows:
1. The v-shaped cross members are rusted half-way through.
2. The bunk mounts are severely rusted
3. Almost every bolt and u-bolt has significant rust and many have barely recognizable nuts.
The plan is: new galvanized cross members and replace all hardware with stainless.
My issue is: Should I convert to a keel roller plus bunk setup while I'm at it and if so, how many rollers would I need to properly support the keel?
Pics of a proper setup would be appreciated too 
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| Joe Kriz |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 11:57 AM
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I prefer a trailer with 4 carpeted bunks and 3 or 4 keel rollers depending on how many cross members the trailer has.
For heavier boats you can double the keel rollers on the cross members if desired.
Here is a photo of how all my trailers have been setup.
http://www.trailrite.com/galv_-2999_s...9_sing.htm
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| CES |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 12:00 PM
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To be honest with you, after reading your issues with your trailer, I think you might be better off either buying a new or good used trailer instead of working on the current trailer.
When I refurbished my trailer for our non Whaler 21' boat, I wished I had bought another one. After factoring in your effort (time) and the $$ spent on parts, the price tag goes way up and would almost equal that of a new and hassle free trailer.
Here's a great website to located hard to find trailer parts....they really helped me out a bunch.
http://www.pacifictrailers.com/ilers.com/
Edited by Joe Kriz on 10/26/11 - 12:25 PM
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| Finnegan |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 12:48 PM
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If you are anywhere near Florida, and it seems like you are from the photos, you should just get rid of the old rusted dog and buy a new Continental welded channel frame and galvanized model #CV-7. Pictured here and in all of the other photos in the album:
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v42...0017-1.jpg
This trailer in 2000# capacity with 13" wheels, fits a Montauk like it was designed for it. It costs, when purchased right in Florida from a local dealer, about $1000. A bargain! Order it with three 12" keel rollers and one 8" roller in the front. Use Stoltz rollers on SS shafts, secured with SS cotter pins.
It came with huge 2 x 6 x 8' bunks, but I replaced then with simple 2 x 4 x 5' bunks, all that is needed. Launching and retrieving is so easy with this trailer you won't believe it.
VERY HIGHLY recommended.
My Montuak came with mechanically fine, but rusted "Sleezy Loader" under it, not worth fixing up, so I sold it for $300. Putting this new trailer under the boat was the smartest thing I did.
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| mreid99 |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 1:14 PM
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I too refirb a trailer and spent way too much on it. I'd price out all of the parts necessary to make it your way look at the cost and you'll probably see that a few more dollars you could have a nicer if not new trailer.
I ended up t4rading that trailer for a 13' whaler, and he got the better of the two deals. But I am please with my 13' albeit it too need a lot of work.
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| contender250 |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 2:15 PM
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I have to agree with some of the above post, your description of your trailer is not worth the fix, sell it, trade it, but purchase a new trailer. Two things about boating that is the most important #1 is the Trailer, without a good trailer you will have problems and can not get to the water/ramp. #2 Is the engine, now that you have made it to the ramp on your new trailer you engine needs to be running and dependable...
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| bmw90w |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 2:23 PM
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That is a nice trailer finnegan but it looks like the keel is about an inch off the trailer in the front. How close is it actually? I know it won't hit because of the bow stop, but it still would make me a little nervous.
1984 Montauk |
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| madmax79 |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 4:24 PM
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Here's a link to pics: http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb...%20Trailer
I may try to shop around some more. The first two places I stopped by (originally for parts), had prices between $1800-2000 for a new trailer.
Edited by madmax79 on 10/26/11 - 4:25 PM |
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| Finnegan |
Posted on 10/26/11 - 4:39 PM
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Madmax - After looking at the photos, I would definitely sell that trailer. It has way too many bolted connections and components, always a nightmare in salt. You will never be able to get it looking good.
The nice thing about the Continental is the ENTIRE frame is structural steel Channel section, which mean no enclosed box sections (except for the trailer tongue) concealing rust and possible failures. You see the entire surface, always exposed. In addition, the entire frame is pre-welded, then hot dipped, so it is rigid with no bolted connections to rust and squeak/rattle and fail.
BMW - I adjusted the keel rollers so the boat would sit as low as possible on the frame. Obviously, they could be raised a little in the bow, but I have never had a contact problem there. All of the boat's weight is carried on the rollers, as BW recommends, and the side bunks only provide lateral stability, adjusted up just enough so that the boat won't rock side to side.
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| madmax79 |
Posted on 12/18/11 - 7:30 PM
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I priced out what I would need for a rebuild of my old trailer and it was over $1000.
After shopping most places in a 40 mile radius, I found an aluminum Continental that I'm picking up tomorrow. It's a new 2010 model that's been sitting on the lot but still has the full warranty. List was $1695 but I got it for $1525.
It's a bunk trailer but that's what mine has been sitting on for almost 17 years. I'll probably add keel rollers as suggested.
Thanks for all the tips.
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| Gamalot |
Posted on 12/19/11 - 6:11 AM
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madmax79 wrote:
I priced out what I would need for a rebuild of my old trailer and it was over $1000.
After shopping most places in a 40 mile radius, I found an aluminum Continental that I'm picking up tomorrow. It's a new 2010 model that's been sitting on the lot but still has the full warranty. List was $1695 but I got it for $1525.
It's a bunk trailer but that's what mine has been sitting on for almost 17 years. I'll probably add keel rollers as suggested.
Thanks for all the tips.
Wise decision Max. Your trailer looks identical to mine but mine has no rust, used in fresh water only. I did replace the springs, shackles, bearings, lights, tires and lift jack and spent well over $500 doing it. The only thing that looks good on yours is the aluminum fenders.
Those pictures are a good example of how important it is to wash it down after a salt water dunking. Too bad you are so far as I would love to have the fenders that are probably after market additions.
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| CES |
Posted on 12/19/11 - 6:24 AM
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Gamalot wrote:
madmax79 wrote:
I priced out what I would need for a rebuild of my old trailer and it was over $1000.
After shopping most places in a 40 mile radius, I found an aluminum Continental that I'm picking up tomorrow. It's a new 2010 model that's been sitting on the lot but still has the full warranty. List was $1695 but I got it for $1525.
It's a bunk trailer but that's what mine has been sitting on for almost 17 years. I'll probably add keel rollers as suggested.
Thanks for all the tips.
Wise decision Max. Your trailer looks identical to mine but mine has no rust, used in fresh water only. I did replace the springs, shackles, bearings, lights, tires and lift jack and spent well over $500 doing it. The only thing that looks good on yours is the aluminum fenders.
Those pictures are a good example of how important it is to wash it down after a salt water dunking. Too bad you are so far as I would love to have the fenders that are probably after market additions.
Very wise decision.
Cliff
1966 13' Sport with a 1993 40hp Yamaha 2 Smoker |
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| madmax79 |
Posted on 12/19/11 - 2:36 PM
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Wise decision Max. Your trailer looks identical to mine but mine has no rust, used in fresh water only. I did replace the springs, shackles, bearings, lights, tires and lift jack and spent well over $500 doing it. The only thing that looks good on yours is the aluminum fenders.
Those pictures are a good example of how important it is to wash it down after a salt water dunking. Too bad you are so far as I would love to have the fenders that are probably after market additions.
Yeah, I tried to prolong the life of the old trailer as long as possible. I'm the second owner and have no idea how the first owner maintained it (poorly, I'm guessing). When I dropped it off at the shop today to get the new trailer set up, the guys at the shop were amazed that I actually pulled the rusty one thirty miles without it falling apart. I told them I had a pretty good amount of pucker factor every time I hit a bump.
And the aluminum fenders were a $20 deal when the local boaters world was closing up shop I gave them to a guy at the trailer place.
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